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Hello, I am joining this forum with hopes to be able to supply you guys with some hard to come by parts for your beloved Nissans, as the title states we are the second oldest Nissan dealer in the uk and we are looking to move some of our older parts that have been stored away for years. I will be doing a follow up post with our parts list which should have thousands of items for you guys to sift through at your leisure, I just wanted to test the waters to see how helpful this would be for you guys, any responses or comments appreciated. Kind regards, Oscar

Hi all! Im thinking of getting a Pathfinder in the next month or two. Wanted something bigger for going fishing/camping and always loved the look of the Pathfinder. Especially the older shape (07/08 models). Has anyone got a rot free one with upgraded timing chain they are thinking of parting with? Thanks in advance 🤘🏻🙂 Harry

Hi Everyone, just bought a 2013 Nissan Serena Hybrid and I was wondering does anyone know where I can get a free user manual download

Hi all Just popped in to say hello from Kingston upon Hull. About to purchase my first Nissan. A 1.0 DIG-T 117 N-Sport 2019. After having issues with Ford. Hopefully, i have chosen wisely.

Hi - Sorry for the delay in update but problem now cured. Took a while but finally back on the road. Had to take it to a main Nissan dealer 20 miles away in the end so as to connect it to their diagnostics system due to other garages near me not having older diagnostic computer kits compatible with my car. Not cheap. £120 later and they said that the Mass Airlow Unit and Knock sensor needed replacing. Their quote was £1671. Staggering. Said parts were the costly items. They said Airflow Unit was £565 plus VAT. No way! Anyway spoke to Paul at local garage and he said that in all his working life (over 20 years) he had only ever replaced one knock sensor in all that time so should ignore that. A search on ebay resulted in me purchasing Airflow Unit for just under £36. Yes only £36. Could have had it shipped from Australia for around £75 all in. Anyway booked car in with Paul who fitted it along with a couple of rubber gaitors for the steering rack. Total cost for his work was £60. Result - success. Car now runs just as it did before problem occurred so very 'happy bunny'.

Hi Trevor ... thanks for your kind remarks! Yes, a month of ownership and no real disasters (yet 🤣) .... the keyless entry works 100% of the time but the keyless start is a bit erratic, often resulting in the emergency key being used .... I've replaced the batteries in the fobs and used WD 40 in the barrel .. but problem still exists ... any clues? .... also the replaced the front sidelight bulbs with LED bulbs and the nearside blows almost instantly ... mystery indeed! Cheers Steve

A pic🙂

Hi all, my first post. My juke 1.6 has a faulty fuel pressure regulator. Have been on the hunt for a replacement pump but prices are absolutely crazy for genuine and I'm struggling to find a none genuine that matches the part number. My part number is 1663000q0b. Are any of these pumps cross operable between models. I'm guessing looking at them they will physically fit but I'm presuming there is a difference in pressure etc? Thanks Tim

I have a 2008 K12 Nissan Micra I am looking for set of new rear wheel brake dust covers I have a part number 44030AX600 but do not know what side of the car this dust plate is for. I am having a very very difficult time finding these covers. I would also willing to accept replica covers as long as thay are new but would prefer origenal Covers Ian

Samco are a company that specialise in Silicon hoses so they can provide different diameters and lengths and you can also get couplings and adapters to make up your own hoses

Hello I also have 2007 Highway Star and with it came an owners manual in English. The company is JPNZ instructions are torequest a repair manual for this vehicle visit www.jpnz.co.nz and select Workshop/Repair Manual

I finally managed to get the connector off and the new resistor is in and I now have a proper 4 speed fan.

Just come across a video suggesting that the neutral position switch on the gearbox may also have gone. Diagnosis is to turn on the Engine heater switch then engage a gear. Revs should return to normal idle if the switch is operating. My car does not return to idle. Stays revved up and I canove forward without there being any change Could this contribute to the error lights I'm facing?

I am a newbie here and have a '85 300ZX (see pic) that I am trying to find maintenance for in San Antonio,TX. I would like to find a reliable maintenance shop for regular support as well as when it needs more in-depth attention. Does anyone have a suggestion or two? Thanks.

Hi Trevor, thanks for the info. I'm going to be replacing the transfer box sensors shortly so I'll take a look whilst I'm under there. Im not 100% sure what I'm doing but trying hard to get the car operational asap. I've tried everything I can think of so far and still no dice. I appreciate the thinking and will let you know how I get on

The colour is not an issue but the type is (all coolants now are of the OATS type)

Hello. Very pleased goes extremely well far better than the previous Peugeot 5008 I got rid of. I changed my previous Qashqai 1.6 petrol with CVT box 13 reg about 3 years ago mainly due to the badly corroded rear subframe, managed a pass but received an advisory instead. Car came from South Cornwall ( St Agnes )exposed to the salty atmosphere from new. This is probably the best secondhand car I’ve bought, must be at least 50 over the last 60 years. The only thing I miss is not having an automatic handbrake which came on when you turned off the engine unlike the Peugeot.

Hi Trevor Yes the fan spins but not when connected 😞 after failing miserably to remove the fan unit I went back to basics, read posts on the problem with most saying 90% of failures are not the motor itself but the dodgy connector. So cleaned connector best I could I fitted motor back into position, still not working. Next speed control resistor, this I initially ruled out as it was fairly new but to be sure I purchased one on eBay, fitted it and yes it works, better than it did before. so lesson learnt, check the obvious and easiest parts first before stripping the car apart 😀 on plus side know now how to remove top of dash in about five minutes, downside is I need to source another air pipe after I cut the other one away, good old gaffer tape is holding it for now.

I would be worried if you didn't hear it in the future 🙂 As long as it still starts and doesn't slow down which could suggest it is starting to bind on the shaft then it should be fine Alternatively, a new starter isn't that much and easy to fit https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=131090&_nkw=2015+k13+micra+starter+motor&selvel=Cars+Year%3A2015%2CCar+Make%3ANissan%2CModel%3AMicra%2CVariant%3APetrol%20Hatch%2CCars+Type%3A1.2%2CBodyStyle%3AFWD%20IV%20K13K%2CMK13K_%2CPlat_Gen%3AMK%20IV%2CEngine%3A1198cc%2056KW%2076HP%20HR12DE&selcontext=productType%3ACAR_AND_TRUCK%2CpartType%3APARTS%2CqueryType%3ABY_VEHICLE&_sop=15&rt=nc&LH_ItemCondition=3

Hi everyone.new to the forum Just thought I'd start with a question as everyone does lol. I have a 95 sunny sequel which is currently sitting on steel wheels and I need ideas help as to what wheels will fit it

Hi Tim....welcome to the Club I really like the Murano, think they should have stuck with that shape for other model designs Feel free to jump in answering any questions (especially about Nissan parts) if you would like to? Good to have you onboard!

For sale Nissan D21 stoke on Trent

Have now bought a Qashqai e-power which is great but can anyone tell me why the power lever when pushed forward mades the car go backwards and when pushed back the car goes forward? I am only a simple sailor ( retired Marine Engineer) but it has me baffled..... Davidpincombe

Those reasons are legitimate ones for the Stop/Start not to operate. Just wondering if the system has defaulted to permanently switched off when the criteria is not met? Maybe the handbook shows the procedure for re-initiating it to operate once more

Hi thanks for replying. The engine runs and am not really sure about misfiring or rough running. To a trained ear you would tell in seconds but i dont know much about them and couldnt tell. I will need to check the wiring etc get a ohms metre

It may be that the previous owner had the function switched off You could ask the dealer to reinstall the function via the scan tool but this would cost Chances are it has LED lighting, if not then I would fit a bulb with a reverse beeper built in https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1313&_nkw=reverse+light+bulb+with+beeper&_sacat=131090

Current upgrade status

Thankyou.shes got wheels now! I am trying to keep it as period as possible

Well this is its " I've saved it from the previous owner" look lol. But there are a few bits needed to get it how I want it

Thankyou Trevor.it has 13 inch steels on with a 175 75 profile I think but I've found a set of 14 inch alloys from a 90's nissan I think a 100nx?? And am going to have them resprayed and 4 new proxy tyres

Ok will do

Would any one like to swap their GTR for my 350z…one lady owner, never drifted

That's great thank you for that.

Hi Trevor, thanks for your response! That gives me a bit more confidence that its just going to be a bit of a learning curve

I have had the car checked and there are no issues. It appears to be a fault with the app and Nissan are looking into it.

Hi Luke.....welcome to the Club I would say you are correct that it is the antenna and as far as I am aware it would not need coding to the vehicle as it does not generate or hold the immobilise code (the ECU would have that information) it simply amplifies the signal from the immobiliser chip in the key fob

Hi everyone, greetings from Denmark and thanks for membership. I´m here for tips and tricks, hope I can get some and give some. My car is a Micra K13 facelift

Thanks, very nice being here 👍

Yes Trevor we will there is a place and they have different lengths I'll find the web site over weekend

You should ideally change both at same time given they’re both the same age and done the same mileage.

Hi, what codes showed up when you had it checked? I’m sure you can’t just purchase the regulator as it is inbuilt into the fuel pump on the 1.5 k9k engine so you would have to fork out for the lot

Hi All, I naively bought a 1.6 16 plate Tekna Juke Diesel (55k Mileage) May of last year for what I thought I would need to commute to work, however working from home meant I did not need to do that. I live in the city and don't travel very often and so I've had problems with needing a new DPF , and now a clogged EGR valve and sensor, requiring a new one. Which has cost me alot of money i'd rather not spend if possible to avoid. This was my first proper car so was unaware that short distance/city driving is not ideal for a Diesel and the build up is likely my start/stop driving and short distance journeys. I've read that taking it out on the motorway every now and then is required to get it heated up and clear the carbon or whatever out from there, but can't find a rough estimate of time frame so was looking for some advice on that. TLDR: How often would you recommend taking it out to get it to high rev/high speed/high heat to keep the DPF and EGR clean? Weekly? Fortnightly? Monthly? Please also feel free to correct me if what i've read is inaccurate. Thanks

Thanks Trevor. Will have a look but not sure about my soldering skills now due arthritis in fingers etc. Still if it turns out to be the problem sure I can find electrical repair shop to solder it.

I have been told that the new models have a 1.3 as opposed to ours being 1.2 - apparently it makes quite a difference.

Not sure on the differences without doing a side by side comparison and also taking it for an extended test drive and seeing how they compare. If you are looking to trade before Christmas means the trader would probably be keen to make the sale so a good deal could possibly be had at this time of year.

Here is a procedure I found and seem to recall using the same technique before on a T31 You must use ORIGINAL KEY to start procedure 1. Sit in car lock all doors with power “switch lock on driver side door” 2. Using ORIGINAL key insert and remove key till doors UNLOCK within 8 seconds, usually insert and remove six times 3. Turn ORIGINAL key in ignition to ACC position (Do not start engine) 4. Lock all doors with “power door lock switch on Driver side door” 5. Press lock or unlock on NEW key this will match them up, if you have another key press lock or unlock as well, it will be programmed all keys to the same code. To exit program mode, turn the ignition OFF. UNLOCK the door using the driver side switch. Test fobs

I would start with the grease, clean it from the reluctor ring and go from there

Will be trying a new suction control valve, will let you know if it works

I think its a very handy accessory. I'm considering adding another towards the rear of the car. Cross referencing the part numbers for the 12v power socket in the centre console box, and the one at the rear of the car, they have the same part numbers. Centre console: Boot: So that does technically mean that the cabling that comes with the usb package, should fit the onto the wiring loom in the boot also. I'll rake a chance and order one, and see what space there is to mount this in the 3rd row of seating/boot area. For information, I bought the kit for £21 from a Renault parts dealer on ebay. Other sellers have them on there for up to £68. So worth it, I believe for an OEM part.

Thanks Trevor..