Sorry about the delay, I was distracted by life. .....CONTINUED.... I will try and remember what I did next as I am writing this several weeks later and have a sieve for a memory. Apologies if I have left something out .... If you are going to be using the same clock spring rather than buying a new one then it is a good idea to put some sticky tape on it so that it does not spin around while you are removing and handling it. Inside the clockspring there is a long ribbon cable like the ones you see in computers. Whwn you are driving and you turn your steering wheel this ribbon cable winds up and unwinds inside the black plastic housing much like a "Clock Spring" does . If you have set your car wheels pointing straight forward then the cable will be half wound up, keep it like this for reassembly. If you are buying a new clock spring then it doesn't matter if your old one moves. The new one will already be set in this wheels straight position at the factory. There will be a small clip on the new clockspring that stops it from turning until you are ready to fit it.. You have to remove this clip before you fit the new clockspring. The steering column cover is in two parts. When you have removed the Philips screw (hidden behind the steering height adjustment lever) from the lower half of the cover it can be separated from the top half of the cover. The two halves are clipped together. The upper cover has two large screws facing you when you are sitting in the drivers seat. Remove those screws. Then the cover should lift off. The clock spring is clipped into position. This was a bit fiddly to remove but I got there in the end. BUYING THE NEW CLOCKSPRING !!!! READ THIS BIT.... My local Nissan garage wanted £165 plus VAT just for the part...nearly £200 quid for a coiled up ribbon cable in a plastic cover! I phoned a few breakers yards and was quoted between £40 and £65 for a second hand part. Then I phoned a Suzuki dealer and asked them for the price of one for the Suzuki Alto (an identical part)...It came to £42 which included the VAT!! Yes, Suzuki you rock! Nissan, hang your heads in shame. You rip us off by fitting a dodgy part and them milk it when we have to replace the crap part you supplied in the first place. I had to take a registration number from a car in their showroom for them to locate the part. I checked the picture of it on the computer against the one I had removed. All looked good and all was good. Remember the new on will have an anti spin clip on it so that will look slightly different. I will always check Suzuki parts from now on. Re fitting it all was just the reverse of the removal. One interesting point. When it all went back together the horn worked at last but the airbag light still stayed on. I was expecting that and I was told that this has to be reset using the fault reset codes with a computer. I figured I would leave it on until I got near a friendly mechanic or AA man with a computer. It is a 5 minute job to plug in and reset. However a few weeks and about 500 miles later I noticed that the airbag warning light has gone out by itself. Read Turnbulla's posts on this thread above. I hope this is a help to someone. I wish there was a detailed description on the internet for every job I need to do and an easy way of finding that description. If you have trouble finding it then you can be sure others will have had trouble too. So next time you do a job with no clear instructions please make a note of what you did and upload it for others.