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Inkey5

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  1. Firstly, thanks for your response and guidance. Very much appreciated. I’ve since replaced the battery (old one was shot after being laid up for 8 months), checked all fluids and all seems good (coolant was indeed only halfway up the tank!). Good enough to pass its MOT yesterday and she ticks over beautifully, so I’m happy. The only thing remaining is the current draw, but I’ve also discovered whats causing that and yes - its the immobiliser. After pulling Fuse 7 the amp draw dropped from 0.25mA to 0.02mA. Not sure where to go with this now as I’m guessing its not going to be cost effective to sort out. Is there a way around for the immobiliser? At the moment I’ve put a physical battery isolator switch on the positive terminal, which means I have to lock the car, unscrew the switch and then unlock the car with the key when i want to use it to put the isolator back in 🙂 Any ideas?
  2. Hi all Just bought a 2005 1.2 auto K12 on just 24k miles, and thought I’d better join a forum as they are often great places to learn about your car. Lots to do as she’s been off the road for 6 months: - Investigate parasitic battery drain (any and all ideas gratefully received!) - Oil change and service - Check fluids including coolant (can’t seem to locate the MAX mark though) - Two new rear tyres - Clean, clean and clean the car some more! - Check the common faults section on here!
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