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Does anyone know where I would get a repair manual for the 2.5L diesel Pathfinder?

Thank you...just a thought, maybe on my next car.

Hi. This is my first request to anyone that can help me. I have fitted an AZDOME M300 S dashcam to my nearly new Qashqai ePower. I also bought a Hard wire kit to connect it directly into the fuse box. I have run the cables to the fuse box and put the fuses into the adapters on the cables, but I am not sure which fuse sockets to plug them into. One cable goes to a fuse that only has power when the car is on and the other goes to a fuse that has constant power. This second one is so motion can be detected when the car is parked with the ignition off. I also know that the fuse holder on the cable has to go a centain way round in the fuse socket regarding the 'Live' side of the fuse. The fuses are 10amp. There is a third wire which is for an earth. This I have connected to a bolt near the fuse box. Can anyone help me please as my car dealer will not do it as they did not supply the unit. I have a diagram of the fuse box layout, so please let me know which fuse in which row to use for each wire. Many thanks. Baz

Hello, new user, greetings. so both my wing mirrors are having a difficult time pivoting out and in with the motor (or the motor is having a difficult time changing the mirrors from folded to out - and back again - to be exact). I did a quick google....apparently the grease can get cold/hard/sticky, and needs to be cleaned and re-greased (?). I've just phoned the local Nissan, and they'll charge £85 to have a look at it (1 hour minimum quote time). Does anyone have a youtube or a guide for getting into the motor part of the wing mirror? I've just been outside and managed to remove the outer wing mirror case and also some of the underside, but the actual motor pivot looks like it's buried inside some more plastic casing (I'm sure this "isn't deliberate" because Nissan don't want people to be able to do this themselves, and want to give the garage £85.......) thanks in advance

thanks for the feedback and glad it worked out okay

you might be able to find a satnav audio head unit that has the security code and possibly(?) it might work without coding to the vehicle body control unit ?

Maybe the wiring has broken in the rubber gaiter leading to the tailgate pull back the rubber each end and inspect the wiring

Hi....welcome to the Club Glad to hear you stuck with another X-Trail....hopefully in a brighter colour you may be seen next time by other drivers 🙂 Good to have you onboard

So...what was the fix then? 🤔

looks like a specific Nissan plug I believe back then it would have been pre-PBD and not capable of storing/reading fault codes

only one crank sensor, which will either be at the front under timing cover or towards the rear of the crank (gearbox end - but more unlikely nowadays)

car stereo wiring mc312d-w

I've had the same experience, not quite the same costs though stlll steep enough. I'm not bothering to repair them as they'll only get chewed again. Apparently, it's soy or peanut oil in the insulation that could be attracting the foxes. It's happening a lot to other vehicles from what I've read online. It means that I can't move the gearstick from D to B to generate a bit more mileage. Nissan must know about this though - I wonder if they can be bothered to do anything about it though? A lady up the road has the same van and puts spikes under hers to deter the foxes.

Thank you Trevor, much appreciated, I would consider putting bigger wheels on it, but looking at the lump it so much reminds me of the Terrano 2.7 lump, part of me wants to get hold of one to see id it fits! I have gone down that road years ago when younger, But I also recall those small differences which take a week each to conquer! I'm less patient than I used to be and ache quicker!👍

Thanks - I got a new primer pump and it didn't help at all. I could try a new filter, but I did change that one recently.

Check all earth leads and connections under the bonnet and leading from the battery down to the chassis, engine and transmission

The valve block should transfer over but the ECU will need to be reprogrammed to the vehicle

sounds like you need to remove the seat and rectify the issue and refit it could have been something trapped in between the seat mechanism that caused it to jam

try a new (quality brand) battery and see if that works

https://www.startmycar.com/gb/nissan/pixo/info/fusebox

maybe another flush out of the fluid as it could be still contaminated. Refill with the correct fluid and see if that changes anything

Sounds like the primer diaphragm might have a slight leak and is drawing air into the fuel filter housing. I would source a replacement primer head and replace the fuel filter at the same time

Hey Folks. Sitting in the middle of the bush in Thailand, in the process of upgrading my March K13 - Does anyone have a Dummys Guide or Diagram showing what the wires do or are for, this is the connector into the speedo cluster. eg: Blue top = ABS Light etc - This is a for 2018 wiring harness. I would also be looking for the same for a 2012 harness. Object of this is, I am still looking at various methods to upgrade my instrument cluster and if it means stripping and chasing wires to remove, then that is what i am going to have to do. My car is a 2012 manual with the speedo being run off the Gearbox sensor, so in my mind and I may be very wrong here, if I can find and chase the same wire here and get it pointed to the gearbox rather than the ABS system, it may work in theory ... unless i am completely missing the point on this in which case i will hold my hands up and go back doing exhaust system and bodywork. I have heard you can use a Dakota Digital Convertor, but finding a 2nd hand one here is impossible. Ps, I have the full interior harness and can get my hands on any other parts / wiring etc pretty easily if i needed anything else.

There are quite a few listed https://www.google.com/search?q=vin+plate+manufacturer&rlz=1C5MACD_en&oq=vin+plate+manu&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqBwgAEAAYgAQyBwgAEAAYgAQyBggBEEUYOTIICAIQABgWGB4yCAgDEAAYFhgeMggIBBAAGBYYHjIICAUQABgWGB4yCAgGEAAYFhgeMggIBxAAGBYYHjIICAgQABgWGB4yCAgJEAAYFhge0gEIODUwMWowajeoAgCwAgA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Maybe it is the same sensor part number if the lead is long enough to reach - that is assuming it has a B sensor.....if you do find another there, change the plugs over to the A sensor and see if the fault transfers to A sensor