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2007 2.5 YD. Is it possable to remove the intank pump without dropping the tank.

I’m looking for a Left Front Drivers seat for an American Built Nissan Rouge. Built in 2018. Can’t be damaged. It’s electric cloth with heater, lumbar support. Mine got damaged in a rear ending crash. It can be the seat frame. That’s what is damaged. The Body shop says it will cost $5000 to replace, but, they can’t find the seat. Just been taken to the cleaners by a con Artist for $500. Not getting burned any more. Nissan says they have no replacement parts, I’ve looked on Amazon, EBay, even all the junk yards in North & South Carolina.none to be found that’s been undamaged. Been driving with a broken seat for over 26 months now. Tied of rocking as I drive my 80,000 mile Rouge. I’m not going to put it in the Junk Yard. Been too good of a vehicle, plus still owe $10,000 on her

You can get a stainless steel one custom made for not a lot of money....check on eBay for sellers https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1313&_nkw=+nissan+juke+nismo+rear+silencer&_sacat=131090

Can you post up a photo of what you can see in the end of the valve?

Hi.....welcome to the Club Sounds an interesting project - feel free to post updates and let us know how you're getting on with it all

You don't say what year the car is but for my money I would recommend that the turbo variable vanes are cleaned using a specialist cleaning solution. Once this is done then it needs a proper hard run, not short-shifting on the gears but holding the revs up before shifting which will give the engine chance to clear its lungs. Basically the carbon build up in the engine (EGR was testament to this occurring) and the turbo sounds clogged up also. Listed below are links to cleaning products on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331754313002?itmmeta=01J3JT0ARSVRG19F0E89P969TC&hash=item4d3e19152a:g:h5EAAOSw4Ehag~qM&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0LTnITF3WGt3YJY4GI1hUKC%2BXP8ZHDRtSSnJ0dz0Rze3oyI4yeaUUtHVxMrZSc8hqxwfqLisgsWyg85fXSsypUG5TEPjryqdAfyY7W0poyavbKcZLCIPwk1KgAFZO6qaGbOFjvn1RJum1QmKPRgTz5T3wr1RkbfI2niLRxM5%2FHUmI3a19zKlItfpQ8dEqr7WSsZtiOO12fmwelgmXZ%2BWxQSEopwQ2bGvgZJsvk%2BEomby%2BYQQ9uGCpQNFJh2sOFE%2FRgKXXEAEicjKF7Fru2L8AsE%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8CsgdqcZA https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323958600044?itmmeta=01J3JT0ARVD0SDHSEBS2XS4RF5&hash=item4b6d6ff16c:g:basAAMXQfvlSg4~P&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8MH81HR74rsuLLW6RBEnYbAOqZYRUJYaoT%2Bm13iI9d2GPBy%2BYMVauztqaiv2BhPDSQiUmH0mc8p9%2BlYvVgxiOqgQxqzxbULCTfwUvJO2BKw62hwA9eHFvDJaQPDJNL41sKqqH%2BtHdNHn994uhyIpMHCRj%2FsMAhrUEAFcWY%2FGnPf7AajOJv26HNE8JABGeaYZ1IyMJbV2HR%2B0aKL31GMCxHH3f64fVwTk8nlZRGNPeYmAFgEZrm4ne3oEDEiXKmrFLXhk3NLlGLDqex6gCZzr0e5xoFWhPsjRLqfMB2FvJfhJJbMRIwliczhp4cFCUmWn3A%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8KsgdqcZA

HI all, I really need some help from a hive mind. It’s possibly a bit of a long one. I sent my pathfinder to the garage to have a pre MOT and full service about 10 weeks ago. The mechanic flagged up a few issues to get done before the MOT but all was good. The next day whilst driving up a hill the car hit around 42-43 mph and stopped accelerating for about 2 seconds, blew a load of soot out the back and drove lovely again. A little later at about 62-3 mph it did the same thing but the engine management light came on. The light stayed on but was gone when I started the engine the next morning. I phoned my mechanic who had no idea what was going on, but we remembered the car had a hissy fit for 2-3 days the year before when it had the service and some work done so decided to see how it was after a few days. Well it’s kept having the same issue. Not all the time but every couple of days it would have an issue at 42-3 or 62-3mph, not be able to accelerate, kick out a load of soot and then drive fine. The engine management light didn’t come on again. The car has been in for work every other week since having bits for the MOT done and trying to sort this issue. We thought it might be the DPF (there isn’t one), the computer said electrical issue but then decided it wasn’t an electrical issue. Then it said the EGR valve so that’s been replaced. Now since the EGR valve has been replaced it drives beautifully. The MPG had gone from 19-22mpg to 26-30.5mpg and I was over the moon. I drove around 10 miles to work, parked, turned engine off and went to train a dog for an hour. When I got back to the car the engine management light came on as soon as it was turned on and it drove like a slug again. I took it back to the garage the next day, had it put on the computer and the only thing that showed up was an o2 sensor which the mechanic said he wasn’t worried about. He got rid of the errors and the light was turned off. Again I drove home and the car was driving like a dream. Turned it off, went to sleep, got in it the next morning and the light was on again and it was driving like its 2 tonnes heavier. Saturday I had another job done and they cleared the computer and exactly the same thing. Drove beautifully until it was turned off and back on again and it drives awful, light on and its limited. Now the other new issue since last Wednesday is that it is no longer just not accelerating at 42-3 or 62-3 in fact it’s stopped all that. Now at 52-3mph it stops accelerating and starts losing power. I can’t accelerate at all…which isn’t fun on a 60mph stretch of road and when you need to turn right it crawls across the road as a large van is approaching at 60mph. As soon as the car is turned off and back on again it drives fine. Engine light is still on, I assume it’s still limited. My mechanic doesn’t know what to do next. I’ve spent over £2k on various things for the car in the last 8 weeks including all this and am now almost out of money. The car just failed its MOT on emissions. It failed last year but after the service went through no problem so I hoped having the service first I would sort that but obviously not. I’m at my wits end and have no idea what to do with the car and I need it for my business. Does anyone have any ideas what is going on with it that I can throw at my mechanic please?

Hi all I'm new today and just bought a 2015 juke tekna and the first thing I did was apart from checking the oil the tyre pressures but on one wheel the valve seems to be broke inside and my pressure gauge wouldn't work on it and when you see inside the valve should be like a pint which allows air to pass when it's pushed in was not there ? But are these types of valve's the same as ordinary valves when screwed out or are they special

Long term owner of MK1 D22. About to transplant it's engine into MK2. Joined up to ask for advice and share the info for others.

Hi, I have a 2009 Nissan pixo, my radio hasn’t been working since owning the car, I’ve replaced the radio unit and it’s still not working. the cd tray powers when you press the button and the lights on the radio also work but there is nothing on the display and can’t get any sound either. any suggestions please?

Hi all I have a 2013 nissan juke nismo 200bhp I'm having trouble finding a back box for this car rang round every where even nissan localy still no joy any help would be much appreciated thanks in advance

my rhino rack clamp mounts wont fit on my d22. they stick out and the doors wont close what mounts do i need or how do i fit them

Yes, my fan inside the car, that blows on the windows was broken and the mechanic fixed it. Then this problem happened. Do you know if there is a way to reverse it?

The O2 sensor 2 is usually located past the Catalytic Converter and measure the output (e.g. efficiency of the Cat) it may be either the sensor or possibly even something simple as an exhaust leak which can throw the sensor out of range

Halfords I believe sell universal horns which will fit

I use Castrol Oil Checker to get the correct specs https://www.castrol.com/en_gb/united-kingdom/home/product-finder.html Most importantly (rather than the grade) is the API/ACEA specs (such as C3 or A5/B5)

Would be worth checking the intercooler for damage and also the hoses/pipes that are connected to it A visual inspection may uncover the fault and costs nothing to do

Sounds like it could be an intercooler (or one of the hoses/pipes) that may be holed, split or not reconnected

More than likely have to remove the grille assembly to gain access

sounds like the connection has been reversed on the passenger door lock mechanism - has any work been carried out on the car recently?

It does sound like you have covered all the bases and the one thing I would have said is that the battery is failing - but you have had it tested and seems fine. A system reset and scan would definitely be the way forward Please let us know how you get on with it and what the outcome is

Hi...welcome to the Club Unfortunately turbos can just go but usually give signs like oil consumption (and smoking from the exhaust) also noises (such as high pitch squeeling) but hopefully all is now okay and you can move on without incurring any damage to the engine However, it is advisable to change the engine oil regularly and use a good quality oil filter as well

Hi all, 2010 Nissan navara. Intermittently it was losing power after 2 thousand revs. Took it to the garage and they couldn’t find a fault, once home it continued to lose turbo/power and progressively went from every other drive, to every drive. Took it to a different garage and they said turbo was the issue. New turbo at £1200 and everything seemed fine and working correctly, it’s done about 150 miles and now the power loss has started again. only way of describing it is when on any incline it has no guts. You can put your foot flat to the floor and it feels like you hit a wall with it accelerating at 2 thousand revs and it won’t go! No pull. any ideas before I return to the garage please?

I have exactly the same problem.

Hi. I have recently bought a Primastar van, its a 2022 model in the new shape, 2.0L automatic and has only done 3500 miles. The stop / start feature just stopped working yesterday. Before you ask, I am aware of cold engine, having the air con on, plugging in things that use the power etc and have disconnected and turned off everything and it still hasnt started working again. Had the battery checked and its Good, healthy and at its health came out as 89% and charging at 100%. I do both short driving around town and long drives for 2 hours on the motor way and it still doesnt activate. When i do stop, the little green A appears on the dash but with a diagonal line through it, as if to say the stop / start is not available or wont be coming on, then dissappears as normal when i pull off again. No warning lights on dash at all. Its booked in to Nissan garage in 10 days time but they want £130 diagnostic fee, then obviously if its a faulty then it should be covered by warranty. I'm just wondering is there anything i could try myself first? Thanks