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The dealership should walk you through the car if you have bought through them. Best to take someone along with you to aid your memory, I know because I get told things and promptly forget them :-)

Its such a scam and see it all the time - easy money for the garages. It is possible to fit replacement rubbers if all they are is perished. As long as they are not perforated and leaking grease or if there is any play in the joints then it is perfectly serviceable. Advise on the MOT sheet but not necessary to replace otherwise. Recently fitted a replacement lower arm on wife's Juke and then replaced it a year later as the first (cheaper one) knocked the joint out in no time - more expensive one, quite a bit heavier duty for the N/S location and almost twice the weight. An easy job to carry out yourself and definitely not £1200 worth of repairs. Kept the old rubbers to use if necessary in the future. :-)

Hi .... welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard

Check maintenance and service history and there would be signs of any abuse with wear and tear in the interior - I always believe it is has been allowed to be grubby inside then they don't tend to look after the vehicle maintenance

Code p0111 relates to intake air temp sensor Put VW P0111 into google search and comes up with a few videos of location and replacement

Hello. 2021 Nissan Murono SV AWD V6 Using a Topdon Airlite 900 Getting a DTC P0111 which shows air intake temp sensor bank one. Looking online it appears that may be misleading as everything i see in reference to P0111 has to do with VVT on bank 1. See image. Trying to find location of VVT solenoid to clean and test, check wiring, or replace. Anyone have diagrams or exploded view???

Hello. Ran across the forum while search for answers on a 2021 murano issue. I'll post a topic on that soon. Hope to find help here and provide a little if I can

Hi , mithering old pensioner hither. Does any fellow Qashqai driver know of any training classes or just help from the dealers to understand how to drive it safely. Bearing in mind we struggle with our mobile phones. Help please

Hi everybody just in the process of buying 2022 Qashqai, any tips to ask at the sale

Been told by Nissan dealer after 60, 000 mile service that the front ball joint rubbers have split. No mention of issue with the bearings. Not too bad I thought. They say the part comes in one bit and have quoted me £1200 to replace them. Is this reasonable. Customer at the next desk to me appeared to have the same issue

I'm sure you will keep finding bodges throughout the car and maybe worthwhile assuming everything needs checking and just work your way through it. If you are lucky you may find the issue which is causing the problems and may not cost you much if anything at all to resolve Let us know how you get on with it

Hi...welcome to the Club yes at that age it should be a K11 model. A resistor pack will be near to or even bolted to the heater blower motor and while you're under the dash you can look to see if any linkage has dropped off Let us know how you have got on with it

Hi, I've just inherited a 2003 Micra Tempest from a relative. I'm hoping someone can help me with a couple of problems I have found. I am assuming this is a K11 model please correct me if I'm wrong. the car has only done 67000 miles so I am hoping to to tidy it up and move it on. The first problem is with the fan blower switch that only works on no. 4. I realise this is a problem with the resistor which needs replacing. Where is it and how do I get to it? The second problem is with the air distribution control knob which will not send air to the screen, only to the face vents. Is there some sort of mechanical linkage controlled by this knob or is it likely some ducting has come adrift. Thanking you all in advance

Thanks for your response, after i posted this, I took the car back to the mechanic to have the fault codes checked and none showed up. However, i decided to risk it and drive from Dublin to Longford, during the way for about 10 seconds two seperate time I noticed it struggling continuously and thats when the CEL came on flashing but after I changed speed it smoothed out and the CEL went away immediately. I let it rest for the night, this morning I decided to check for any fitting errors. I found that the air intake duct/snorkel was not properly fitted in the front, so it would've been sucking in the warm air of the engine bay which could cause the engine to struggle under stress. Though as far as I'm aware, this wouldn't cause misfires or CEL but this points towards the previous owner or his mechanic being very rough with their work. (This car has had the internal speakers, headlamps replaced, wiring damaged, connector damaged and incorrectly replaced spark plugs, so someone has been frequently toying with the internals) And this prompted me to check other fittings. The intercooler pipe(?) (image attached below had some issues which I don't know if they could be a clue or not. The right rubber part attaches securely to the middle plastic bit, its nice and tight, however, at the other end of this rubber bit (the far right of the picture, where it would connect to the intercooler) there is a bit of give. I can wiggle it a little. Then the shorter rubber tube (at the left of this image, which goes behind the engine, so I'm guessing connects to the turbo) had slight greasy residue where it connects to the middle plastic bit. Sorry for the word vomit, am I on to something? How did the mechanic even miss that the air intake duct wasn't seated correctly, and surely if they just ran their hand along the rubber tubing here they would've noticed the grease.

Please let us know how you get on with it

Thanks. I’ll check it out

Rejection of car initiated but apparently this is a long process!

Thanks all - found out extra security not needed. Closed topic

Unless the chassis has been replaced as they suffered from the rear section (load area) breaking in half? https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=nissan+navara+chassis&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8 https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=nissan+navara+chassis+number+location&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

Sounds like the timing chain is worn - just posted an article relating to a Nissan Pulsar c13 1.2 DIG-T engine with same symptoms. https://www.nissanownersclub.com/forums/topic/34996-nissan-pulsar-c13-neverending-problem/

Hmm, seems like someone had the issue before and a bodge was carried to rectify the issue (or at least attempt to rectify it). There is an issue with the timing chains and as far as I can see it was a recall from Nissan. It does suggest that it occurs on hard acceleration (e.g. from a slip-road) and if the chain is slack it can drift away from the timing point by a small fraction (much like a loose timing belt) which can then throw a code for cam/crank timing and result in what you are experiencing. I would personally replace the engine oil and look to see what has come out - e.g. metal particles and then replace it with the specified oil which may have not been supplied with previously. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/engine-oil-12094/nissan/pulsar/pulsar-hatchback-c13/107484-1-2-dig-t If you use a quality oil of the correct specifications (as listed in the link above) and see if that makes any difference to how it runs. If no real difference is noted then I would advise to get the timing chain replaced which will almost certainly make a difference if it is worn

Hello, I recently purchased a 2016 (registration year) Nissan Pulsar C13 1.2L Petrol DIG-T. I bought this car from a private seller about a month ago and it drove lovely for almost two weeks and it's been nothing but problems ever since. First time I noticed the issue, I was taking an exit ramp off the M50 in gear 3 at about 45km/h when it wouldn't accelerate smoothly and jerked a bit. I thought nothing of it, then it did it again later on the N4 near Mullingar, Edgeworthstown and Longford. I had it checked 3 days later, just for fault codes and cylinder 3 showed misfires. The jerking kept getting worse and worse until eventually the check engine light would come on for prolonged periods and flash occasionally. I then brought it to a fancy garage where they did a compression test and all 4 cylinders are good but the spark plugs were mismatched, and the wiring loom was split. The wiring loom and connector for cylinder 3 had been tampered with and they were damaged, I assumed this was the root of the issue. The garage replaced all 4 spark plugs AND all 4 coils with OEM parts and their technician repaired the wiring loom and connector. I got the car back off them today, and it drove fine but only for about 15km before I noticed the same jerking issue mildly occuring again. it's not as bad as the day I took it to the mechanic, but it seems like its been reset to when the issue first started. I saw a post of some people buying this model and having to have the engine replaced entirely under warranty shortly after 2016 but this car has been in use before I bought it with frequently paid tax and NCT done every 2 years. Has anyone else had this issue, please for the love of god help me. The repairs that have been done weren't cheap and the problem is STILL here. I can't afford to sink more money into this car. please please please help

When accelerating engine makes a clattering sound then returns to sounding normal

Hi Trevor Thank for your reply but i have looked there and its not on it.

It's on the chassis rail right hand side (outer) under the drivers door. Literally bend down and you should see it straight under the sill. Found this on a Navara site, also it should be on the body below the windscreen area but if all else fails it will be printed on your vehicle logbook