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I would normally agree with you regarding the engine being run in but if a previous owner just took it to the shops once a week or crawled through traffic in urban areas the engine would not necessarily be run in correctly (many diesel engines with high mileage can be stripped down and still find the honing marks scored into the bores....suggesting that the engine has not been run in correctly). I have torn down engines with just 21k miles and found the bores to be completely worn but equally I have found engines with over 100k miles to still be as fresh as the day it was built. It all depends on how it has been driven. Another example is a BMW R1200GS motorbike I had for many years. When I bought it, it was consuming quite a lot of engine oil, I changed the grade but it didn't like it (just yet). The bike had only covered 24k miles but it was sluggish and didn't respond as it should. I rode the bike hard (as it should be ridden) with high revs in each gear and eventually it was a completely different bike. No longer did it consume oil but I could happily change the oil grade accordingly. The long and short of it is that it was not run in correctly and I managed to change that by riding it hard for a period of time. Most diesel engines are not revved hard enough to burn off carbon (which could be gumming up the rings into the piston and not sealing in the cylinder efficiently, blocked EGR, blocked DPF, etc. All they usually need is an 'Italian Tune-up' to keep it all clean. Moral of this lengthy reply is - if it is consuming oil between services then I would consider that my theory is correct. Also try a cylinder leak-down test which will show exactly which cylinder or valves have pressure leaking past them. Very easy test with visible and audible results

>Thank your for you´re input Trevor! As the car don´t produce any blue smoke from the exhaust, has good power and starts easy, I´m having hard to belive that the compression is poor. But you never know.. And as the milage isn´t high. But still I would say that it´s brooken in at 86000 miles. I have tried a additive that should give less friction (can´t remember the name), bu no additive for less smoke. I have one thing to try and that is if engine smokes from both dipstick and filler cap. I have understod that I can draw conclutions on the result of that test. Not sure what except that it´s worse if it smokes from both.

I use a smart screen with Android Auto. Then connect my phone via BlueTooth and use Waze map. Less expensive and live updates of accidents, traffic jams etc.

Hi All We can confirm our seasonal opening hours will be as follows: Up until the 19thDecember: Normal hours. Saturday 20th December: Closed Sunday 21st December: Closed Monday 22nd December: 9.00am – 3.00pm Tuesday 23rd December: 9.00am – 3.00pm Christmas Eve: 9.00am – 3.00pm Christmas Day: Closed Boxing Day: Closed Saturday 27th December: Closed Sunday 28th December: Closed Monday 29th December: 9.00am – 3.00pm Tuesday 30th December: 9.00am – 3.00pm New Years Eve: 9.00am – 3.00pm New Years Day: Closed Friday 2nd January: 9.00am – 3.00pm Saturday 3rd January: Normal Hours Resume. Regards, Dan

I can only really find springs which will drop the height but not sure about other suspension components to complement the springs (dampers, links, etc) https://www.lkperformance.co.uk/car-parts/suspension/lowering-springs/nissan/pathfinder

A couple of things come to mind - you could also try some additives to see if this improves things. If it is breathing heavy then usually bores/rings, etc but if you have tested compression (wet and dry) then this may not be an issue. Worth considering an additive such as StopSmoke or similar to see if any difference and also may change the engine oil for a heavier weight. Finally, if the car has been driven in a high gear and just cruised along for most of its life then it probably isn't run in yet....diesels (as you may know) need to be run hard to bed everything in and to maintain and low carbon emission level (gummed up rings, etc)

This is quite normal as it dims everything for nighttime driving. If you have the infotainment screen fitted then this also dims as well

hi i've got a nissan juke i put the lights on and the light round the heater goes dim is a fuse or something wrong please help it's a nissan juke 2013 plate

There was I thinking a System Fault must be serious but after some delving into the reams of paper that make up the Leaf owners book, I find that it is nothing major after all. I think one of the radars giving blind spot protection must have failed because switching off all of these functions the warning has gone! I don't think I will bother to do anything about this as if there was one function I would consider completely uneccessary in a car it would be this. The electronics systems fitted in modern cars, to my mind , is ridiculous. I suppose it is all leading up to when the human driver is superfluous? I also wish Nissan would include a manual that is specific to the actual model to which is it issued it is very confusing to have a manual that has all the items fitted to all models and nothing to indicate what is not fitted to a particular car! I am considering purchasing one of those OBDs, the Topdon Carpal looks like a good contender but I could not find anything on their website to see if it can diagnose faults in a Nissan Leaf. Perhaps there is someone on this site that would know?

Doesn't your fuel flap lock when you lock the car? Mine certainly does. Maybe your just wanting extra security - if so ignore my post 👍

usually when charging, whether on a charger or from an alternator it will usually sit in the 13v mark. Interesting to that the interior light causes that surge, battery maybe weak for some reason, although 4 years is not that old. But stuff happens. might be worth investing in a scan tool when the car comes out of warranty. As dealers charge so much money for such little work

Thanks for your support, Steve. I tried to replicate your instructions but I could not get the response on my Leaf no matter what buttons I pressed! One thing I did notice was the 12v battery (it's always the 12v battery!) was only reading 12v and any load such as interior light dropped it to less than 12. I have now put the vehicle on charge and notice that this also charges the 12v battery, now reading over 13v. Hoping this might be the answer. But if not the car is in warranty so will take it back to the dealer for them to fix.

please let us know the results and what it was.. may help other leaf owners Cheers

good morning Usually you would need to have a scan tool to scan the faults. There maybe a way to do this manually, but I dont have a leaf to test this on. Sit in the driver seat (car OFF). Press and hold the trip reset button on the dash. While holding it, press the Power button twice (don’t press the brake). Keep holding until the dash flashes and displays “DIAG” or icons. Release the button. Press the trip button again to scroll through system checks. If you only see “---” or no data, you’ll need a scan tool for detailed fault codes. Give that a go. But i am no expert so if you get no joy then have this inspected by a dealer.

My 2021 Leaf Acenta is showing System fault on the screen. Pressing OK removes the message but there is an orange exclamation mark at top of screen. Any ideas as to what would be the fault?

You can get the FSM's from the web, quite a few pdf's for a full set, but worth it.

I have a 2011 Nissan Pathfinder is there any lower kids for? It

Hi everybody! Nissan Qashqai 2017 1,6 diesel, cvt. About 86000 miles So the car starts and runs fine, but I noticed a slight knocking upon coldstart. Almost as if the engine is having trouble building oil pressure. For about 4-5 seconds. And I have crankcase pressure opening the oil fillercap + some smoke. So a Pcv problem I thought. Changed the pcv and the knocking upon starting might have been slightly less. But still crankcase pressure. If I disconnect the hose on the pcv and blow in it, there are not resistance. And I can’t find any defects on other hoses. I notice a sound from the airfilter box, as if the engine is sucking air from a leak in the box. Dismantled everything but can’t find any leak. Some oil in the hoses and around the filler cap, but nothing alarming. Haven’t done a compression test as it’s not a high mileage car. Full service book. Drives 40 + 40 miles everyday. Can’t upload film as it’s to big.. Anyone who has experienced the same problem.

Try this company https://www.petrolcaps.co.uk/

Sounds like they have arrived a diagnostic conclusion which seems quite reasonable. Not sure why it cuts out though, but sometimes this can occur when the engine revs 'stumble' Please let us know how it all goes

If it is coming from the interior (e.g. back of the steering wheel) then it could be the SRS rotary coupler as they can suffer from moisture and dirt ingress over time

I used Lens on my old Alphard years ago.. worked a treat. once settings set up then let it be.

I would use google lens and translate functions to define which controls do what

Hi....welcome to the Club Please let us know how you get on with it all Good to have you onboard

Hi .... welcome to the Club Nice collection of cars - good to have you onboard