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Hi, I've just inherited a 2003 Micra Tempest from a relative. I'm hoping someone can help me with a couple of problems I have found. I am assuming this is a K11 model please correct me if I'm wrong. the car has only done 67000 miles so I am hoping to to tidy it up and move it on. The first problem is with the fan blower switch that only works on no. 4. I realise this is a problem with the resistor which needs replacing. Where is it and how do I get to it? The second problem is with the air distribution control knob which will not send air to the screen, only to the face vents. Is there some sort of mechanical linkage controlled by this knob or is it likely some ducting has come adrift. Thanking you all in advance

Thanks for your response, after i posted this, I took the car back to the mechanic to have the fault codes checked and none showed up. However, i decided to risk it and drive from Dublin to Longford, during the way for about 10 seconds two seperate time I noticed it struggling continuously and thats when the CEL came on flashing but after I changed speed it smoothed out and the CEL went away immediately. I let it rest for the night, this morning I decided to check for any fitting errors. I found that the air intake duct/snorkel was not properly fitted in the front, so it would've been sucking in the warm air of the engine bay which could cause the engine to struggle under stress. Though as far as I'm aware, this wouldn't cause misfires or CEL but this points towards the previous owner or his mechanic being very rough with their work. (This car has had the internal speakers, headlamps replaced, wiring damaged, connector damaged and incorrectly replaced spark plugs, so someone has been frequently toying with the internals) And this prompted me to check other fittings. The intercooler pipe(?) (image attached below had some issues which I don't know if they could be a clue or not. The right rubber part attaches securely to the middle plastic bit, its nice and tight, however, at the other end of this rubber bit (the far right of the picture, where it would connect to the intercooler) there is a bit of give. I can wiggle it a little. Then the shorter rubber tube (at the left of this image, which goes behind the engine, so I'm guessing connects to the turbo) had slight greasy residue where it connects to the middle plastic bit. Sorry for the word vomit, am I on to something? How did the mechanic even miss that the air intake duct wasn't seated correctly, and surely if they just ran their hand along the rubber tubing here they would've noticed the grease.

Please let us know how you get on with it

Thanks. I’ll check it out

Rejection of car initiated but apparently this is a long process!

Thanks all - found out extra security not needed. Closed topic

Unless the chassis has been replaced as they suffered from the rear section (load area) breaking in half? https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=nissan+navara+chassis&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8 https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=nissan+navara+chassis+number+location&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

Sounds like the timing chain is worn - just posted an article relating to a Nissan Pulsar c13 1.2 DIG-T engine with same symptoms. https://www.nissanownersclub.com/forums/topic/34996-nissan-pulsar-c13-neverending-problem/

Hmm, seems like someone had the issue before and a bodge was carried to rectify the issue (or at least attempt to rectify it). There is an issue with the timing chains and as far as I can see it was a recall from Nissan. It does suggest that it occurs on hard acceleration (e.g. from a slip-road) and if the chain is slack it can drift away from the timing point by a small fraction (much like a loose timing belt) which can then throw a code for cam/crank timing and result in what you are experiencing. I would personally replace the engine oil and look to see what has come out - e.g. metal particles and then replace it with the specified oil which may have not been supplied with previously. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/engine-oil-12094/nissan/pulsar/pulsar-hatchback-c13/107484-1-2-dig-t If you use a quality oil of the correct specifications (as listed in the link above) and see if that makes any difference to how it runs. If no real difference is noted then I would advise to get the timing chain replaced which will almost certainly make a difference if it is worn

Hello, I recently purchased a 2016 (registration year) Nissan Pulsar C13 1.2L Petrol DIG-T. I bought this car from a private seller about a month ago and it drove lovely for almost two weeks and it's been nothing but problems ever since. First time I noticed the issue, I was taking an exit ramp off the M50 in gear 3 at about 45km/h when it wouldn't accelerate smoothly and jerked a bit. I thought nothing of it, then it did it again later on the N4 near Mullingar, Edgeworthstown and Longford. I had it checked 3 days later, just for fault codes and cylinder 3 showed misfires. The jerking kept getting worse and worse until eventually the check engine light would come on for prolonged periods and flash occasionally. I then brought it to a fancy garage where they did a compression test and all 4 cylinders are good but the spark plugs were mismatched, and the wiring loom was split. The wiring loom and connector for cylinder 3 had been tampered with and they were damaged, I assumed this was the root of the issue. The garage replaced all 4 spark plugs AND all 4 coils with OEM parts and their technician repaired the wiring loom and connector. I got the car back off them today, and it drove fine but only for about 15km before I noticed the same jerking issue mildly occuring again. it's not as bad as the day I took it to the mechanic, but it seems like its been reset to when the issue first started. I saw a post of some people buying this model and having to have the engine replaced entirely under warranty shortly after 2016 but this car has been in use before I bought it with frequently paid tax and NCT done every 2 years. Has anyone else had this issue, please for the love of god help me. The repairs that have been done weren't cheap and the problem is STILL here. I can't afford to sink more money into this car. please please please help

When accelerating engine makes a clattering sound then returns to sounding normal

Hi Trevor Thank for your reply but i have looked there and its not on it.

It's on the chassis rail right hand side (outer) under the drivers door. Literally bend down and you should see it straight under the sill. Found this on a Navara site, also it should be on the body below the windscreen area but if all else fails it will be printed on your vehicle logbook

Well the induction hose you replaced was definitely the culprit and as that was perished I would also look for any other hoses that may have holes or splits through perishing over the years. An increase in revs is usually a vacuum leak through a perished or split hose. As for the transmission - it is hard to tell what the issue is but I would advise to get it to a transmission specialist for them to set it up correctly - may need calibration through specialist equipment

Hi Guys Looking for VIN number Location, I have the one on the windscreen and the one on the inside of the door, i have looked on the Chassis under neath as you open the driver's door,and its not there, is there any other place it can be? Your Help would be appreciated Thanks.

I have a 2014 Nissan Pathfinder SL 3.5L V6. When my wife bought this in September 2025, it seemed fine at the time, no transmission or engine issues. She drove it home for 2.5 hours, then around town for a few days. I was out of town at this time, and she drove to pick me up, 3 hours each way. It drove fine during all that. Anyhow, shortly thereafter, it started to seem like it was kind of jerking at lower speeds, had a rough idle, almost where it might die. I replaced the front 3 spark plugs, as the back 3 require pulling intake manifold, was not ready for all that. Also changed 2 of the 4 O2 sensors I could locate. Mass air flow sensor error code. After installing 2 new MAF sensors, same performance and error. Anyhow, shortly thereafter, it started to lunge, with the RPM spiking. I replaced the 3 front spark plugs and 2 of the O2 sensors. That did not resolve the issue. It felt like it was starved for gas. Then my wife got stranded one night, it was in limp mode, and we had to have it towed to our house. Poking around in the engine bay, I found the large accordion hose from MAF to the throttle body had a major hole in it. I got a new hose, and the hesitation and rough idle went away. That resolved some of the lunging but did not resolve the RPM spiking. A new issue arose of driving smoothly to around 40 mph but then the RPMs increasing but the mph not increasing. Then came Code P0776 pressure control solenoid B. I replaced the transmission valve body with all the solenoids, as well as new NS-3 transmission fluid. My wife drove it to the end of our long driveway, and it threw a code there, which showed low transmission fluid level. We then checked the level with the silver drain plug, engine warm, seemed OK, added some until slightly more flow. Test drove again with me in vehicle this time. It acted like it was driving over ruble strips on the edge of the road, no power, engine seemed to match RPMs, we immediately turned around and brought it home. 3 error codes: P084C Transmission fluid pressure sensor/switch H circuit Low, P0847 transmission fluid pressure sensor/switch b circuit low, P0746 pressure control solenoid A performance/stuck off. I find the last one odd, since I just replaced the trans valve body, which contains the pressure control solenoid A. ANY help would be very much appreciated! I realize there is the possibility that the CVT transmission is shot, but I do not have $5000, let alone $1000 for a new trans.

Personally I would direct compressed air around the area to see if I could clean it without removing components - you can get compressed air canisters to clean computers and keyboards. The possibly I would lightly apply some silicone spray around the area the noise is coming from but not too much, only a fine spray so as not to interfere with the SRS components.

Thank you for the explanation. What can I do about this. Is there something that needs replacing?

Sometimes helps to breakdown carbon deposits but mainly using premium high octane/cetane fuels is best to help with cleaning up the combustion process.

Hi...welcome to the Club Just do the bits that you can arrange to sort over time (wiper blades, tyres, etc) and just keep on top of servicing and any other issues that may crop up. Feel free to ask questions whenever you need advice

I bought my first Nissan, a K12 Micra, a couple of weeks back. It's not in the best shape, but I'm working to fix what I can. I will be asking questions when I get stuck, but much of what I am doing is pretty routine at the minute, well mostly.

Okey! I’ll try and see if it helps. Maybe with some cleaning additive in the fuel?

Its never too late to 'break it in' by slowly and gradually increasing the revs over time to get it used to revving higher - easiest way I've found is drive it the same as normal but just use a lower gear for longer periods....just do it gradually and run on premium fuels

Thank you for your long reply :-) Okey, I hear you! I have been driven diesels for 35 years and a happy DIY mechanic, not afraid of projects. My daily driver is a Subaru XV 2012 diesel. Seldom rev it above 3000 rpm, and no problem with smoke or performance. But I do some full pulls now and then, so that might support your theory. Also have an Oldmobile 1982 350 v8 diesel, but that one never get a full pull, and does not smoke.. Some more history on the Nissan. It´s the wifes dailydriver, so it has not been driven hard. Normally cruises down the highway at 70 miles/h. When we bought the car it had about 21000 miles on it and was 3 years old. Does not touch the oil at all. I rarly fill in oil in between the services. Smoke from both oilfillercap and dipstick. I´m absolutley certain that this hasen´t been like this for mstart of ownership.. If your theory is correct, would you say that it´s to late to try an Italian service? Or let me put it like this, would you do it? I think I can organice a compression test, but the leakdown test will take some work as I don´t have the correct tools for the job. What bothers me is that the car has good performace and runs just fine... I appreciate your time! All the best

I would normally agree with you regarding the engine being run in but if a previous owner just took it to the shops once a week or crawled through traffic in urban areas the engine would not necessarily be run in correctly (many diesel engines with high mileage can be stripped down and still find the honing marks scored into the bores....suggesting that the engine has not been run in correctly). I have torn down engines with just 21k miles and found the bores to be completely worn but equally I have found engines with over 100k miles to still be as fresh as the day it was built. It all depends on how it has been driven. Another example is a BMW R1200GS motorbike I had for many years. When I bought it, it was consuming quite a lot of engine oil, I changed the grade but it didn't like it (just yet). The bike had only covered 24k miles but it was sluggish and didn't respond as it should. I rode the bike hard (as it should be ridden) with high revs in each gear and eventually it was a completely different bike. No longer did it consume oil but I could happily change the oil grade accordingly. The long and short of it is that it was not run in correctly and I managed to change that by riding it hard for a period of time. Most diesel engines are not revved hard enough to burn off carbon (which could be gumming up the rings into the piston and not sealing in the cylinder efficiently, blocked EGR, blocked DPF, etc. All they usually need is an 'Italian Tune-up' to keep it all clean. Moral of this lengthy reply is - if it is consuming oil between services then I would consider that my theory is correct. Also try a cylinder leak-down test which will show exactly which cylinder or valves have pressure leaking past them. Very easy test with visible and audible results