Trevor

Oh nice easy fix then - could have done quite a bit of damage to the electronics if it had come off completely. Glad to hear its fine now.

not sure that you can but if you can remove the chain cover by removing the studs individually then that would be easier and also as long as the valves have not contacted the pistons then it should be okay

I think possibly the same as when you take the fob apart it is a known fault on some of the fobs for the lock/unlock buttons on the fob (*which can be separate to the boot lock) become detached from the circuit board, (*depending on which fob you have). You can repair the fob with a kit from eBay and as long as you have soldering skills and a steady hand then its a very cheap job to do https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=2014+nissan+note+fob+repair+kit+microswitches&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_odkw=2014+nissan+note+fob+repair+kit&_osacat=0

This would be transmission drag generated by the various components in the transfer box being rotated with one or more wheels on the ground. Equally there is transmission wind-up which can be dangerous if undoing wheel nuts and the wheel is free to turn with tremendous force which can break an arm so be careful if the car has been driven around on tarmac and with sharp turning (such as driving onto a driveway).

I would start with any serviceable items that are overdue, oil, filter, air filter, fuel filter, etc then I would also be checking for the condition of rubber vacuum and breather hoses to see if they are split or perished. This can usually be identified by a hissing noise with the engine running at idle. Replace parts if you find any damage to the hoses or gaskets around the intake system (inlet manifold, etc) Alternatively, it may be something as simple as an exhaust leak - place a rag over the rear silencer tailpipe with the engine at idle speed (outside in the fresh air to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning) and if you hear a hissing from the exhaust front section, manifold or oxygen sensor(s) then that is your fault.

Reconditioned transmission would be the best way forwards or if not a secondhand used transmission from a wreckers yard as it may have been replaced before the vehicle was scrapped. Either way, ensure that it is the proper fluid going into the replacement transmission and change regularly (before it is due)

I thought it may be a radar sensor for police speed cameras as they are usually mounted on top of the dashboard

Always make sure the engine is maintained at regular or even before its due to ensure the oil quality remains in good order, especially when it comes to the smaller engines which can generate quite a bit of heat when working hard. Make sure it has the best quality oil you can afford.

Hi @Riki .... welcome to the club Enjoy your X-Trail when you get it

That sounds like one of the wheel sensors has gone faulty - a scan of the fault codes in the ABS system will more than likely show a code for a wheel sensor

I am guessing it is part of the process for charging the battery but I would double check it with the dealer or Google search the symptoms and see what you can find

Fuel efficiency (of whatever source - petrol, diesel, electric, hydrogen, etc) is quite popular on many forums at the moment. Mainly because of the fact that people bought a vehicle based on the manufacturer's advertised efficiency which has been way short of what is actually achieving in the real world. Have a check on forums such as ToyotaOwnersClub.com and there is a huge discussion which debates the best methods of driving with electric or hybrid vehicles. Good luck and Merry Christmas to you also!

Hi...welcome to the Club

I assume its a manual transmission or automatic? A cold engine can produce these symptoms and wonder if it does it when starting the engine when hot?

The CVT does sound strange when driving compared to a manual transmission. But if you can find another just to test drive and make a comparison to satisfy yourself as to whether it is normal or not.