Trevor

If it is screaming high pitch noise then it is more than likely got a small leak somewhere but in general you will hear a nice constant low whistling tone while the turbo spools up

Sounds like turbo boost isn't there - are there any strange sounds like whistling or a deeper sound (sounds like a burp) as this can signify that either the turbo or intercooler is leaking and creates a whistling sound and if its deeper then one of the rubber turbo hoses is split. I would demonstrate both sounds but luckily I can't record sound on here 😁

I would be very tempted to take it back to the dealership and ask them to explain it to you - not only is it from the Nissan dealership so they should be well informed of any procedures and also the liability if there is any issues with the system. Please let us know how you get on with it

Hi, I would say Halfords but probably not on your model, I guess any decent independent mechanic should be able to change it. Not only is it the one lamp at the moment but they usually follow in pairs. I can recommend a mobile mechanic, Sam Mee who is top-drawer and would be able to do that job (assuming it doesn't need to be from underneath on a vehicle lift to access the bulb). Let me know if you want his number and I can PM it to you. Being based in Bournemouth myself I know many garages and some/most I would not advise going to but there are also a lot of very good garages and mechanics out there who are respectful of customers and their cars. (I know because I taught many of them over the years). Give me some garage names (best PM them to me) and can advise on their reputation as best I can. Cheers, Trevor

I would recommend taking the car to an car audio specialist I believe there are still some left in most towns. They may be able to guide you to a reset or firmware update - alternatively they may offer to sell you a new multimedia replacement which would be so much better than the original one

how low was the warning down to? maybe less than a certain amount (e.g. zero or very low timeframe) and it won't reset unless through a scanner.

Not sure to be honest but found this AI summary which could shine some light on your issue TSR Audible Warning Details: Speed Limit Change: A single chime sounds when the system detects a new speed limit sign. Overspeed Warning: If the vehicle exceeds the detected speed limit, the display flashes and a chime sounds four times. Customization: Within the [Driver Assistance] > [Traffic Sign Assist] menu, drivers can set the system to: [Warning]: Both visual speed limit display and audible overspeed chimes are active. [Info only]: Only the visual display is active; audible alerts for speed changes are disabled. Temporary Suspension: The chime can be temporarily muted by slowing down or using the steering wheel scroll dial.

I would be tempted to drive it more to allow the battery to charge and to activate the brakes on loose surface to invoke the ABS. Erase the fault code memory and rescan it to see if the fault returns

Hi @Johnj good to see you back 🙂

Thank you so much for responding with the solution - I'm sure many members will benefit from your time in diagnosing and cost (albeit a cheap component) rather than replacing everything in a process of elimination.

Can't say that I have noticed exhaust pipes being this colour except for when engine oil has been sprayed over the exhaust and stained it

The oil level sensor should be on the sump and as long as you have topped it up on a level surface then it should give a true reading - it may be worth checking the connection to the sensor and ensure not contaminated with water, corrosion, mud, etc

Not sure as the car is quite new so unless something has damaged the reservoir bottle or a hose has come detached ?

Great diagnosis and sometimes you can narrow it down to one part (hopefully a cheapish part) and then throw caution to the wind - it then either works or it doesn't.

Thats a great outcome - and warranties are handy for that reason

I would read reviews of different independent garages on Trustpilot and then narrow down to one you think you can trust (not always the cheapest one)

Is the engine petrol or diesel ? Turbocharged?

I guess it depends what the load is in the back - loose rubble or large (but lightweight) objects. Ultimately, the brakes will adjust on the rear to how much load is being carried but the tyres will only ever be suitable to certain speeds and loads. I always work on the principle of driving the appropriate speed for the roads and conditions.

Wow! very low mileage 370z - got to be very rare nowadays. Assuming it is hydraulic system - if so then I would replace the fluid and bleed through the system. If it has been sat around for quite some time which I'm sure it has with that low mileage then the fluid may have degraded and allowing air into the system over time.

Hi @Pasquale welcome to the club - great to have you onboard !

That is a sensible conclusion and maybe worth removing the valve cover to get a better view of the chain and tensioners (endoscope is good for observing further down inside the engine. If wear is obvious on any components then maybe worth planning to put a new chainset in the engine

Sorry, I have no idea but maybe worth sending email to the Chinese company to ask the question or do away with the steering wheel controls - did the same on my X-Trail and couldn't get the controls working so just didn't bother with them

Hi @Busted Flush and welcome to the club You seem to have managed to undertake the maintenance tasks rather well considering your 'advancing years' - I'm finding I can't do some of the jobs I used to do but luckily don't have to do repairs much nowadays. In regards to the starting fault - I would look at chassis earth points and leads. If any of them are suspect you can always run an auxiliary earth lead from the engine to the chassis and chassis to battery negative (a jump lead would be okay to use to test if more current is reaching the starter motor and glow plugs. As for the other repairs these seem to be standard faults with the Juke but apart from that they are damn fine car. We have one in the family and it is superb in every way. You mention the floppy gearshift. Ours suffers from that also but as no parts available I was thinking of doing something similar to the one you made. Would it be possible to upload a photo of the shim assembly you made so I can also produce one to resolve the issue? Good to have you onboard and keep us updated

Thats an odd one but I would start by peeling back the rubber gaiters running into the rear doors and check for any breaks in the wiring. After that, I would put a secondary earth to the earth connections on wiring and ensure that there is a decent earth to complete the circuit - let us know how you get on with it

Hi....welcome to the Club The simplest and most effective and also the cheapest option is to but yourself a Smoke Generator which will instantly identify where the leak is coming from. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315502976341?itmmeta=01KEGZPWYGJ259PS400VMKP27X&hash=item4975715d55 All you need to do is place it in the area where the leak is coming from and unlike water (which tracks to the lowest point from where it is leaking) the smoke goes directly out of the point of entry of the leak. At a cost of £65 and it is something you can do yourself then it negates paying £700 for the diagnosis and more than likely you can repair it yourself. Let us know how you get on with it