Trevor

Hi....welcome to the club Good to have you onboard!

Try searching in Google Lens - it brings up many images similar to yours and maybe give you a clue of what it is

I think your mechanic is right and certainly worth a try for the cost of a secondhand ECU My only concern is how is has been damaged in the first place - short circuit in wiring, water ingress, etc

Check the battery power leads and connections Pay particular attention to the earth leads from the battery to the engine, gearbox and chassis for breaks or corrosion

I would check the connections under the seats (ignition off) and see if secure or damaged in any way You could use a resistor to see if that works but do not apply resistance checks to the SRS components (airbags, pretensioners, etc) If the vehicle has been in a crash and the airbag module has sensed this then you will need to replace the module but believe a secondhand one should work straight away and cancel the code

could be a vacuum leak causing that (revs hunting at idle)

This may help https://www.startmycar.com/gb/nissan/pixo/guides/power-steering-fluid-change

Aftermarket valves would more than likely sort it Try DemonTweeks for motor racing valves - have used them on my motorbike and far better than standard items

Can't say I have come across an adapter like this before but worth checking eBay for anything like it

seat adjustment but also seat height can make a huge difference

Hi...welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

I use iCarSoft but also Carly are quite inexpensive

Welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

You may be able to get a rebuild kit that comes with new seals Easy enough job to remove the pistons, clean up and fit new seals to rectify the issue

It should be something like selecting the individual seat position and then depressing the position number 1 or 2 button (depending on who is driving at the time) for a short period of time

Not sure but sounds like a Dual Mass Flywheel failing which can cause those sounds and also lead to the vehicle jerking. You can tell this when you switch the engine off and the rattling continues for a very short while afterwards

also worth checking the quality of the battery - a lot of cheap ones fail on the individual cells a quality battery can be determined by the weight of it and also the cost - not worth skimping on replacement batteries

Sounds like transmission wind-up when the four wheel drive diff locks up on full lock - would advise not to use 4WD on tarmac too often to avoid damaging the transmission

I think the best option would be to get one in any colour, cut a hole for the side repeater if necessary and then have it resprayed

Hard to determine what the noise is or where it is coming from Have you had another diagnosis since?

To be honest I have no idea what that can be for except maybe what you are seeing is the clutch mechanism (can't get enough clarity on the photo to exactly determine what it is)

An audio specialist or even the main dealer can provide this code usually for a nominal cost

Google search: One is nearer the engine and one is nearer the back of the car, after the DPF

Still worth getting the fault codes interpreted which will narrow down the possible cause(s)