Trevor

This is more than likely from the front underside but worth looking underneath at both ends to ensure that your undershield is present at the front/rear

possibly the DPF trying to regenerate but something is stopping the process - check all necessary conditions with the process (e.g. fuel tank of fuel, higher RPM for set period, etc)

I tend to enter details into EuroCarParts or eBay sites to see if they are listing belt or chain for each engine type If in doubt about belt replacement history then changing it is the best way forward

Good luck in your search and may be worth considering countries like Malta, Cyprus and maybe Portugal for any that were sold out there in RHD and they would be in rust free condition and no tax to pay as they are old vehicles

I would imagine if the front hubs are manually unlocked then it should be fine but if auto locked hubs then potentially the different rolling diameter would affect the transfer box, etc....so probably worth ensuring all four tyres are same tread depth as near as possible

I have always managed to find replacement resistor packs for most cars on eBay More than likely would be the same for most Nissan models - remove it and compare to images of them on eBay

I would ask your local Nissan dealer as to cost and availability of the parts and go from there If its a reasonable price for parts and fitting then would be worth fixing it

Hi.....welcome to the club Good to have you onboard!

First thing I would do is to go around the car and clean all the external sensors and cameras (including front screen ADAS)

The code means 'Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1, Sensor 2)' This sensor (at the back of the catalytic converter) may be faulty and is showing a low reading for the efficiency of the cat. This could be that there is a slight exhaust blow (a bad gasket / joint) in the exhaust system and this is causing the issue A rag held tight over the tailpipe at the rear of the car and listen for any hissing from the exhaust towards the front of the car to establish any leaks that may be present. (obviously Health & Safety needs observing when carrying out this test)

Its certainly worth checking the wiring for damage as this does occur over time

Has the vehicle suffered any accident damage recently, including the front screen?

Battery condition ? Air leak in intake system - split hoses, etc COuld be a number of things - best to get it scanned to narrow it down

Hi....welcome to the club Good to have you onboard!

Try searching in Google Lens - it brings up many images similar to yours and maybe give you a clue of what it is

I think your mechanic is right and certainly worth a try for the cost of a secondhand ECU My only concern is how is has been damaged in the first place - short circuit in wiring, water ingress, etc

Check the battery power leads and connections Pay particular attention to the earth leads from the battery to the engine, gearbox and chassis for breaks or corrosion

I would check the connections under the seats (ignition off) and see if secure or damaged in any way You could use a resistor to see if that works but do not apply resistance checks to the SRS components (airbags, pretensioners, etc) If the vehicle has been in a crash and the airbag module has sensed this then you will need to replace the module but believe a secondhand one should work straight away and cancel the code

could be a vacuum leak causing that (revs hunting at idle)

This may help https://www.startmycar.com/gb/nissan/pixo/guides/power-steering-fluid-change

Aftermarket valves would more than likely sort it Try DemonTweeks for motor racing valves - have used them on my motorbike and far better than standard items

Can't say I have come across an adapter like this before but worth checking eBay for anything like it

seat adjustment but also seat height can make a huge difference

Hi...welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

I use iCarSoft but also Carly are quite inexpensive