Trevor

Hi....welcome to the Forum That certainly looks like it will do the job, not sure whether it may need coding in (such as with Audi, BMW, etc) Let us know how you get on with it Cheers, Trevor

Hi Wayne...welcome to the Forum Sorry about that...we have introduced the section now Best Regards Trevor - Admin

Welcome to the Nissan Juke section of the Forum

I would check the bulb condition, voltage to the bulb and if none, check the fuse and earths

I would have thought that the struts should work the same with lowering springs

Not entirely sure that Nissan use a special ATF but there should be something compatible on either eBay or via Castrol or similar. Usually just Dextron II but worth investigating a little more to confirm and peace of mind

I would try to set it up properly first and the only real way of doing that is to dial it in with a scanner. Once it is set in the correct position then cable tie the loom and double check the voltage readings then road test. Almost guarantee it is the loom and connector making it go limp home...did it on my x-trail until I sussed it out. Also, one other thing I forgot about, sometimes the sensor can become contaminated with debris (moisture, carbon, etc) I took mine apart and cleaned it carefully before reassembing....but yours may not need that doing. If you do try to adjust it manually then be aware it is the minutest movement required to make a huge difference.

I would almost guarantee it is the pedal sensor and once set up correctly it should be fine. The only other issue is the loom connecting to the sensor has a weak connection so I cable tied mine so that when it was set up it couldn't move on the connector/terminals...it worked fine then. (typical Nissan/Renault electrics)

Surely it still has something left on a 6 year (or similar) anti-corrosion warranty on it?

Hi Tim....I believe it should be possible if you have enough room to manoeuvre spanners around it. Let us know how you get on with this Cheers, Trevor

Sorry, never carried out that process before but when you crack it could you post up the procedure on here please, would be very useful for anyone else needing to carry out this process. Thanks...and good luck

Unfortunately, that is the problem...if you could borrow a scanner to dial it in with it would be a lot easier. Alternatively, if you loosen the securing bolts and gradually adjust it to a position where the engine revs at idle are okay and it doesn't go into limp mode then you've cracked it but you only need to move it a minute fraction at a time in either direction until you find the exact point. Good luck

Hi Lico...welcome to the Forum Hope we can help you with some of the problems Cheers, Trevor

Not managed to programme a key this way before, sorry. The only NIssan method I have used is to switch the ignition on and off several times within a few seconds and then press the remote buttons in a particular order (sorry, can't remember the order) but you should find plenty of info on the net for this method. Also, the buttons frequently break off the circuit board internally

That looks so sweet....lovely TIG welding, wished I could get my welds like that.

Multimeter is fine but a bit fiddly. I would accurately mark up the original sensor position in case you have to return it back to that point. Loosen the sensor securing bolts/nuts. Leave the sensor plugged in and switch the ignition on. Measure one of the wires and earth (sorry cannot remember which wires) and see what the reading is at idle position. This should then progressively change and at wide open setting it should be within the range specified above. Tighten the bolts/nuts to secure the sensor. Note: the wiring going to the connectors is usually really crap on the connector so if necessary bias it over to something solid and cable tie the loom in position.

you should be looking for a voltage range from pedal rest and changes as you slowly open and close throttle. A lot easier if you have a scope function on your scanner. It's then a case of loosening the securing screws and slightly moving the sensor until you get the correct readings. Measure with ignition on & engine stopped - Pedal released 0.8V-1.3V fully pressed >3.5V.

Thanks Dan, look forward to your review of the Pulsar You can also leave one here if you like http://www.drivn.co.uk/review/

Have you checked the system through the OBD socket to look for fault codes or live data....I have had problems with the throttle position sensor (on the pedal) and if not set correctly, then this can cause the fault you are describing.

That's the law according to Sod ! What's the chances of both bulbs going at the same time....it could happen to any of us as it's the first thing to consider, fuses, electrical faults, etc. Glad it's all sorted now though Cheers Trevor

It looks like you had immense fun out there and well worth all the effort to get it there...well done!

Hi Dan...welcome to the Forum I cannot personally comment on how the Pulsar drives and will leave that to others who know, but like anything really, it is what it is! I suppose for what is essentially a family car, it's not really going to set the world on fire. Here's a quote I found for it in a review: The Pulsar places an emphasis on comfort over driving thrills, so the suspension is soft enough to soak up bumps without a problem. Travel faster, however, and that same soft suspension can’t quite keep pace, causing the body to lurch uncomfortably. Suits me...I must admit that I go more for comfort now than speed Cheers Trevor

Hi Jules Not sure how likely it is but could it be the actual headlamp switch at fault? If you have checked the fuses and all is good there, then check for power to the actual headlamp bulb connector (plug) and if no power on dipped beam then this may be the fault. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

quite possibly something in the settings...may have to play with the settings to find 'current position' or similar

glad you're pleased with it, I agree, they are lovely to drive