Trevor

It depends on what year it is but otherwise it may be controlled by the BCM (Body Control Module) - put hazards on and see/feel where the clicking is coming from

I believe you could bypass it if you can't find a replacement. Using copper pipe to take the regulator out of use.....which if you are not carrying heavy loads then it should be fine for normal use. Quite whether it will pass an MOT I'm not too certain but if the braking efficiency is fine then it should be okay

Try gently banging the motor under the dashboard area because the motors fail when the brushes wear out and you can usually get it to turn (evenly slowly). If it does kick into life then its the motor that needs replacing

bad earth to the headlamps possibly - check all wiring back from the bulbs and if there is a common earth point on the body panels or chassis area, then check this for damage or corrosion

I would have that checked out as sounds like either the caliper is loose or the pads are missing the anti-rattle shims in the pads

I would first check the fuel filter - replace if in doubt Otherwise sounds like the turbo variable vanes are gummed up with carbon but this usually puts the engine into limphome mode accompanied by an amber engine warning lamp on the dash

Could be faulty battery or pedal switch Have you tried pushing the clutch down as far as it can go? Also depress brake pedal at the same time

I would check with the Nissan parts department and they should be able to advise if it is seperate item Always has been many years ago on most cars but you never know whether it is a sales pitch to clear old stock You could try eBay for a secondhand one

The only listing I can find is for UK models but may share transmissions https://www.castrol.com/en_gb/united-kingdom/home/product-finder.html?page=recommendedProducts&id=1468

Hi...welcome to the Club That's unfortunate to occur within such a short space of ownership - no chance you bought it from a trader and can get the repairs done free? - OBD2 Diagnostic Trouble Code P246F means that Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 Sensor 4) has been detected - That's what he should be looking for and it will be in the exhaust (possibly on top of the front pipe area)

Hi....welcome to the Club The early Micra's certainly do have quite a following nowadays and fast becoming a future collectors car. Unfortunately, we don't (yet) organise any rallies but feel free to put something together if you can get enough Micra owners on here to attend.

If I were you, I would get a refund and walk away as far too many alarm bells ringing on this one and loads of work to do on the car. They are not that rare, although to find one in really good condition is worth buying and possibly hanging onto as a future classic

Hi.....welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

Hi.....welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

Hi....welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

Great van....used to own a petrol version many years ago Not seen a camper version though.....any pics?

The first thing I would look for is a vacuum leak somewhere in the induction side of the engine. Look also for any exhaust leaks as this can throw the sensor to the maximum limits then overfuels as it senses a lean mixture. Lastly look at the coolant temperature sensor readings as if this is out then it can be sensing engine is cold

I have fitted struts from Autodoc to a range of vehicles and never had any issues https://www.autodoc.co.uk/spares Not sure if they have your vehicle in there but worth a look

Does it improve quite quickly? e.g. when the engine comes off choke (as it used to be in the past - now open loop to closed loop on the lambda sensors) as this may be the issue

You can get a stainless steel one custom made for not a lot of money....check on eBay for sellers https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1313&_nkw=+nissan+juke+nismo+rear+silencer&_sacat=131090

Can you post up a photo of what you can see in the end of the valve?

Hi.....welcome to the Club Sounds an interesting project - feel free to post updates and let us know how you're getting on with it all

You don't say what year the car is but for my money I would recommend that the turbo variable vanes are cleaned using a specialist cleaning solution. Once this is done then it needs a proper hard run, not short-shifting on the gears but holding the revs up before shifting which will give the engine chance to clear its lungs. Basically the carbon build up in the engine (EGR was testament to this occurring) and the turbo sounds clogged up also. Listed below are links to cleaning products on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331754313002?itmmeta=01J3JT0ARSVRG19F0E89P969TC&hash=item4d3e19152a:g:h5EAAOSw4Ehag~qM&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0LTnITF3WGt3YJY4GI1hUKC%2BXP8ZHDRtSSnJ0dz0Rze3oyI4yeaUUtHVxMrZSc8hqxwfqLisgsWyg85fXSsypUG5TEPjryqdAfyY7W0poyavbKcZLCIPwk1KgAFZO6qaGbOFjvn1RJum1QmKPRgTz5T3wr1RkbfI2niLRxM5%2FHUmI3a19zKlItfpQ8dEqr7WSsZtiOO12fmwelgmXZ%2BWxQSEopwQ2bGvgZJsvk%2BEomby%2BYQQ9uGCpQNFJh2sOFE%2FRgKXXEAEicjKF7Fru2L8AsE%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8CsgdqcZA https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323958600044?itmmeta=01J3JT0ARVD0SDHSEBS2XS4RF5&hash=item4b6d6ff16c:g:basAAMXQfvlSg4~P&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8MH81HR74rsuLLW6RBEnYbAOqZYRUJYaoT%2Bm13iI9d2GPBy%2BYMVauztqaiv2BhPDSQiUmH0mc8p9%2BlYvVgxiOqgQxqzxbULCTfwUvJO2BKw62hwA9eHFvDJaQPDJNL41sKqqH%2BtHdNHn994uhyIpMHCRj%2FsMAhrUEAFcWY%2FGnPf7AajOJv26HNE8JABGeaYZ1IyMJbV2HR%2B0aKL31GMCxHH3f64fVwTk8nlZRGNPeYmAFgEZrm4ne3oEDEiXKmrFLXhk3NLlGLDqex6gCZzr0e5xoFWhPsjRLqfMB2FvJfhJJbMRIwliczhp4cFCUmWn3A%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8KsgdqcZA

The O2 sensor 2 is usually located past the Catalytic Converter and measure the output (e.g. efficiency of the Cat) it may be either the sensor or possibly even something simple as an exhaust leak which can throw the sensor out of range

Halfords I believe sell universal horns which will fit