Trevor

Can you describe any symptoms and what does the light look like

Now that could be both suspension or brakes Brakes is more like a clicking noise if the pads are moving in the carrier but if the caliper is loose then this will also make a noise Check the caliper is firmly secured it will flop around and you will hear a clunking noise if not If you place a wheel wrench on the wheel nut and move the car backwards and fowards with it that should narrow down the are of the noise

Firstly before you go any further, does it rotate and have you tried putting power to it directly to see if it operates Sorry if you have already done these things but always worth checking

Not sure where to go from there unless you dig deeper with the immobiliser to find out what is causing the draw (internal circuitry or external connections with a high resistance?)

It is certainly an impressive machine, very nice! Aftermarket is sometimes the best (and cheapest) way to go with an Audio system

I would therefore possibly take it to a transmission specialist who can focus on that system specifically. Worth doing a google search to see who is in your local or wider area

Halfords always have a good range and decent prices as well

Is there any adjustment that can be made to any sensors that are connected the shift mechanism or directly on the transmission housing ?

I would definitely try a temporary 12 volt feed but be ready to remove it if nothing happens just in case it has a high resistance and causes an electrical fire

Hi Jarek ....welcome to the Club Have to say that i needed to look this model up as never seen one before Very impressive machine and see that many have been modified to look even better Post up some pics of yours if you want to Sorry, not sure on where to get components for the audio to convert to UK but years ago there just used to be an adapter that connected to the aerial and that converted it to UK stations. Not sure if there are any around nowadays as it was some time ago when I last saw or fitted on

Sounds like there could be more wire damage elsewhere, worth checking the other door switch wiring to be on the safe side

If no screws are obvious to see when you are looking at the panel then it would more than likely be held by clips and gently pulling the panel should release it

It would be worth checking the mechanism isn't seized first otherwise replacing a fuse would power up the circuit and either blow the fuse or cause further issues. See if there is any movement on the spindle by trying to gently rotate back and forth

I would look at the earth leads and connections to start with, common fault on Nissan. After that then there may be an issue with the security control module (if under the dash it could have suffered water ingress from the windscreen leaking) - look for tell tale signs of water leaking under the dash area

Does the vehicle run differently (e.g. engine running fault) ?

Certainly the DPF regenerating and diluting the oil with diesel wash-down is a major cause of lower MPG This is due to lower compression being produced as the rings are not sealing due to thinner oil Only Low Ash oil recommended for that engine should be used but at least the diesel wash-down will have cleaned the engine internally 🙂

Hi Inkey5 ....welcome to the Club - Battery drain, quite possibly the laying up of the car for a length of time has caused the battery to sulphate and discharge. Either use a battery conditioner (not a charger) on it and see if it recovers over time or replace with a new one Also, once charged then you can look for a drain-source using a multimeter - also check earth straps and connection points on the chassis Oil service and fluid checks are always advisable after laying up a vehicle - also a chance to check over the car and find things to address in the near future Coolant level should be halfway within the expansion bottle and/or at the top of the radiator when you remove the cap Good to have you onboard and keep us updated on your progress

SHould go off when the engine is running

It sounds like you are referring to Daytime Running Lights (DRL) and these will come on with the ignition and headlights also Is the correct bulb fitted in the rear lamps as this can backfeed the lighting system and cause all sorts of issues with the lights?

Can you swap the switches over to test them (assuming same connectors used on both) ?

Should be located on the pedal somewhere (maybe in a completely inaccessible location though)

Good choice in my opinion

If the propshaft had to be removed for the transfer case seal to be replaced then maybe it hasn't been put back in the same position? You could eliminate this by putting a jubilee clip on the propshaft(s) and test run the vehicle and if necessary, turn the clip slightly to another position to see if that changes the vibration

Has the vehicle had any running faults that can be related to the light coming on? Or had any work done on the engine recently?

Hi Tim....welcome to the Club Good luck with your search and hope you find one