Hey so my drivers main switch operates the rear two windows if you press the lock switch it stops operating the rear windows. So this is working just fine.

My problem is the rear switches won't operate the rear windows on their own. Only the main drivers switch operates them.

I've hooked the rear switches to the front passenger and they work just fine so the switch itself is good. I've tested continuity with the up/down pins to ground (See picture) which shows as good.

The power when the front switch is used to lower/raise the rear window reads at 0.69v and does move the windows albeit slowly.

What i have noticed is when i put the rear switch in to the front, i get 12v across all pins where as the rear i get zero reading until the front main switch is operated and then it's only 0.69v.

Is this a main switch issue, BCM issue or something else?
Front switches work just fine and operate all windows as they should, rear switches do nothing except stop me from using the front switch to raise/lower the window when someone presses on the switch while i operate them from the front.

The wire colour is from left to right.
Yellow, Red, Yellow, Blue, White. With the top pin being a thin black wire which i can't figure out what it does.

Thats an odd one but I would start by peeling back the rubber gaiters running into the rear doors and check for any breaks in the wiring.
After that, I would put a secondary earth to the earth connections on wiring and ensure that there is a decent earth to complete the circuit - let us know how you get on with it

1 hour ago, Trevor said:

Thats an odd one but I would start by peeling back the rubber gaiters running into the rear doors and check for any breaks in the wiring.
After that, I would put a secondary earth to the earth connections on wiring and ensure that there is a decent earth to complete the circuit - let us know how you get on with it

Thank you.

I'll give that a try.
So the rear N/S rear window gets 0.69v when operated from the drivers switch and the O/S rear window gets 3.67v when operated from the driver switch. I've pulled the driver switch apart and there's a 47uf 35v vt capacitor that was very loose and broke off. I've managed to solder it back on to close the windows. I'm going to order a ne Drivers windows switch and replace before i continue to trace the issue.
Ground's seem good. I used some extra wire to bypass the ground on the plug and nothing changed.

I know the rear switches work as when i hold down the Drivers switch and toggle the rear switch the window stops moving so i know the rear switch is inturupting the driver switch signal but the rear switch is just not sending the signal down to the motor. So i assume there's some back/forth with the main switch/BCM which is not getting completed. Fingers crossed it's the main drivers switch and not the BCM module.

I may have to buy a laptop and grab a copy of Nissan Consult III. The service manual suggests there's a BCM test for windows which might be handy to identify the issue.

Great diagnosis and sometimes you can narrow it down to one part (hopefully a cheapish part) and then throw caution to the wind - it then either works or it doesn't.

Replaced the drivers main switch with a £14 Amazon special with lights and everything works perfectly. Rear windows now work as intended.
Rear passenger window is a little slow so will replace the motor next month.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09CG5RS6Z?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title This is the unit i used. Green lights are pretty bright. Might look at changing out the passenger switch and see if there's a DIY thread somewhere with changing the dash lights to green also.