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Hi, I would say Halfords but probably not on your model, I guess any decent independent mechanic should be able to change it. Not only is it the one lamp at the moment but they usually follow in pairs. I can recommend a mobile mechanic, Sam Mee who is top-drawer and would be able to do that job (assuming it doesn't need to be from underneath on a vehicle lift to access the bulb). Let me know if you want his number and I can PM it to you. Being based in Bournemouth myself I know many garages and some/most I would not advise going to but there are also a lot of very good garages and mechanics out there who are respectful of customers and their cars. (I know because I taught many of them over the years). Give me some garage names (best PM them to me) and can advise on their reputation as best I can. Cheers, Trevor

I would recommend taking the car to an car audio specialist I believe there are still some left in most towns. They may be able to guide you to a reset or firmware update - alternatively they may offer to sell you a new multimedia replacement which would be so much better than the original one

how low was the warning down to? maybe less than a certain amount (e.g. zero or very low timeframe) and it won't reset unless through a scanner.

Not sure to be honest but found this AI summary which could shine some light on your issue TSR Audible Warning Details: Speed Limit Change: A single chime sounds when the system detects a new speed limit sign. Overspeed Warning: If the vehicle exceeds the detected speed limit, the display flashes and a chime sounds four times. Customization: Within the [Driver Assistance] > [Traffic Sign Assist] menu, drivers can set the system to: [Warning]: Both visual speed limit display and audible overspeed chimes are active. [Info only]: Only the visual display is active; audible alerts for speed changes are disabled. Temporary Suspension: The chime can be temporarily muted by slowing down or using the steering wheel scroll dial.

I would be tempted to drive it more to allow the battery to charge and to activate the brakes on loose surface to invoke the ABS. Erase the fault code memory and rescan it to see if the fault returns

welcome back john!

Deutsch: Hallo, wie ich sehe habt ihr das selbe Problem wie ich, an meinem Quashkai j11 mit 1.33 Liter Benziner. Ich habe auch ein gerichtliches Gutachten, auf deutsch. Leider hat der Gutachter nicht genau sagen können, mit was der Schaden angefangen hat. Das Thermostat und das Gehäuse, die Kopfdichtung und der Flüssigkeitsströmungsbegrenzer sind defekt . Die Wasserpumpe war in Ordnung. Während der Fahrt, kam bei mir auch kein Warnsymbol am Display. Erst später, als ich schon mit dem Auto am Straßenrand stand. Der Motor hat sich fest gefressen und das Kühlwasser ist sofort entwichen. Erfahren habe ich auch, dass der Quashkai J11 keinen Sensor besitzt, der erkennen kann, wie viel Kühlmittelwasser noch während der Fart vorhanden ist. Dies hat der Gutachter schriftlich bewiesen. Und meine Abgassensoren, die normaler weiße auch eine Meldung zeigen sollten, haben beide eine Funktionsstörung gehabt, laut Lesegerät vom Gutachter. Also höchstwahrscheinlich sind die Kabeln wie bei einem anderen Nutzer weggeschmolzen. Habt ihr bereits welche Resultate erziehlen können? Habt ihr auch irgend etwas schriftliches, wie ein Gutachten ? Damit ich es dem Gericht vorweisen kann? Ich habe nämlich noch Garantie und Gewährleistung auf dieses Auto. English:Hello, I see you have the same problem as me with my Quashkai j11 with a 1.33-liter gasoline engine. I also have a court report in German. Unfortunately, the expert was unable to say exactly what caused the damage. The thermostat and housing, the head gasket, and the fluid flow restrictor are defective. The water pump was fine. While driving, no warning symbol appeared on the display. Only later, when I was already standing on the side of the road with the car. The engine seized up and the coolant immediately leaked out. I also learned that the Quashkai J11 does not have a sensor that can detect how much coolant is still available while driving. The expert proved this in writing. And my exhaust sensors, which should normally also display a message, both had a malfunction, according to the expert's reading device. So most likely, the cables melted away, as was the case with another user. Have you already achieved any results? Do you also have anything in writing, such as an expert opinion? So that I can present it to the court? I still have a warranty and guarantee on this car. Translated with DeepL.com (free version)

Thank you so much for responding with the solution - I'm sure many members will benefit from your time in diagnosing and cost (albeit a cheap component) rather than replacing everything in a process of elimination.

Cant find a replacement for it and no windscreen wipers mean can't drive it!

Can't say that I have noticed exhaust pipes being this colour except for when engine oil has been sprayed over the exhaust and stained it

The oil level sensor should be on the sump and as long as you have topped it up on a level surface then it should give a true reading - it may be worth checking the connection to the sensor and ensure not contaminated with water, corrosion, mud, etc

Not sure as the car is quite new so unless something has damaged the reservoir bottle or a hose has come detached ?

Thanks for the update chris!!

Yeah Trevor I generally get 3 months warranty out but with this being a newish car they gave 2 years for the price of 1

I would read reviews of different independent garages on Trustpilot and then narrow down to one you think you can trust (not always the cheapest one)

Is the engine petrol or diesel ? Turbocharged?

I guess it depends what the load is in the back - loose rubble or large (but lightweight) objects. Ultimately, the brakes will adjust on the rear to how much load is being carried but the tyres will only ever be suitable to certain speeds and loads. I always work on the principle of driving the appropriate speed for the roads and conditions.

Wow! very low mileage 370z - got to be very rare nowadays. Assuming it is hydraulic system - if so then I would replace the fluid and bleed through the system. If it has been sat around for quite some time which I'm sure it has with that low mileage then the fluid may have degraded and allowing air into the system over time.

Hi @Pasquale welcome to the club - great to have you onboard !

That is a sensible conclusion and maybe worth removing the valve cover to get a better view of the chain and tensioners (endoscope is good for observing further down inside the engine. If wear is obvious on any components then maybe worth planning to put a new chainset in the engine

Sorry, I have no idea but maybe worth sending email to the Chinese company to ask the question or do away with the steering wheel controls - did the same on my X-Trail and couldn't get the controls working so just didn't bother with them

Hi @Busted Flush and welcome to the club You seem to have managed to undertake the maintenance tasks rather well considering your 'advancing years' - I'm finding I can't do some of the jobs I used to do but luckily don't have to do repairs much nowadays. In regards to the starting fault - I would look at chassis earth points and leads. If any of them are suspect you can always run an auxiliary earth lead from the engine to the chassis and chassis to battery negative (a jump lead would be okay to use to test if more current is reaching the starter motor and glow plugs. As for the other repairs these seem to be standard faults with the Juke but apart from that they are damn fine car. We have one in the family and it is superb in every way. You mention the floppy gearshift. Ours suffers from that also but as no parts available I was thinking of doing something similar to the one you made. Would it be possible to upload a photo of the shim assembly you made so I can also produce one to resolve the issue? Good to have you onboard and keep us updated

Hi, please can someone help ,I'm in need of a evaporater for my 97 model nissan pulsar

Hi....welcome to the Club The simplest and most effective and also the cheapest option is to but yourself a Smoke Generator which will instantly identify where the leak is coming from. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315502976341?itmmeta=01KEGZPWYGJ259PS400VMKP27X&hash=item4975715d55 All you need to do is place it in the area where the leak is coming from and unlike water (which tracks to the lowest point from where it is leaking) the smoke goes directly out of the point of entry of the leak. At a cost of £65 and it is something you can do yourself then it negates paying £700 for the diagnosis and more than likely you can repair it yourself. Let us know how you get on with it