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Hey so my drivers main switch operates the rear two windows if you press the lock switch it stops operating the rear windows. So this is working just fine. My problem is the rear switches won't operate the rear windows on their own. Only the main drivers switch operates them. I've hooked the rear switches to the front passenger and they work just fine so the switch itself is good. I've tested continuity with the up/down pins to ground (See picture) which shows as good. The power when the front switch is used to lower/raise the rear window reads at 0.69v and does move the windows albeit slowly. What i have noticed is when i put the rear switch in to the front, i get 12v across all pins where as the rear i get zero reading until the front main switch is operated and then it's only 0.69v. Is this a main switch issue, BCM issue or something else? Front switches work just fine and operate all windows as they should, rear switches do nothing except stop me from using the front switch to raise/lower the window when someone presses on the switch while i operate them from the front. The wire colour is from left to right. Yellow, Red, Yellow, Blue, White. With the top pin being a thin black wire which i can't figure out what it does.

Hello I have had my 2014 Dci 1.5 Nissan Juke tekna for 5 years now ( I am 78 years of age) it will probably be my last car, I have never seen another one like it, that colour with the white highlights and diesel, it costs £20 a year road tax, important for a pensioner and is extremely good on fuel consumption This is a facelift model, blue with white wing mirrors and eyebrows front and rear, as I call them, it is a high mileage model and I bought it by accident as it was a courtesy car from my local garage, this was 6 years newer than the car I owned at the time, as it was high mileage it cost £3000 and £1000 part exchange for my old Ford Focus. It was reluctant to start just turning over and over, this stumped two local garages, but was fixed by the main Nissan dealer in Norwich, the main fuse adjacent to the battery had gone, this was also expensive. After this I have had several problems, leaking air con compressor, this was replaced by the main dealer again, also they found a wire off behind the dashboard. My local garage did not seem keen to replace the glow plugs, so I did this myself, a bit fiddly but I managed OK, they cost £17 each from my local motor factor. I also replaced all the brakes this summer including the discs and parking brake shoes, the parts cost £215, this was not easy owing to my advanced age but a lot cheaper than the garage, the worst part of this job was the parking brake shoes, there is a small spring and sort of nail arrangement that hold the brake shoes in place, very fiddly as you need to hold them at the back whilst pushing at the front against the spring The car also had a very loose gearstick, I solved this by removing the centre consul and taking the gearstick out, uncliping the cables, the bottom of the gearstick sits in a nylon socket, this wears, I was able to make an aluminum circular shim which surrounded the nylon bush, a bit fiddly but the gearstick is now positive I also replaced the drivers seat owing to wear The most recent job I did was non working windscreen washers, parts are cheap on EBay, the actual problem was a blocked 'Y' valve under the long plastic scuttle panel I carefully levered this up at the front and was then able to pull all the pipe out and the small blocked fitting. I replaced this with a 'Y' fitting that I bought on ebay with new pipe, I also replaced the pump and bottle under the front rear arch with second hand but newer ones, I made a slight modification when replacing the tubing, thinking it may happen again I ran the tube along the front of the scuttle panel under the bonnet of course and drilled through adjacent to the jets before connecting up, the pipes are hidden behind the millboard which clips on, this also keeps the tubing away from the wiper arm mechanism which runs under the panel

Hi, please can someone help ,I'm in need of a evaporater for my 97 model nissan pulsar

I recently attended a speed awareness course - I was driving a car and not my Navara when caught. One section of the course covered speed limits - specifically the lower limits for vans on certain types of roads. Some pickups are classified as vans (based on their kerb weight) and therefore subject to these (lower) limits. Has anyone any personal experience of this?

Pulsar 2015 , Car is mostly running smoothly , no starting issues . There is an issue with the cruse controls , they keep disengaging randomly - I did a scan and came up with this error : P0356 , camshaft position sensor B, circuit bank 1 , current / pending / permanent .. when I cleared them the permanent stayed and the other 2 went away till I drove the car . I replaced the sensor with an after market one - worse I replaced it with a genuine part - a bit better , but still issue . I’m thinking a faulty wire or morn likely a stretched timing chain / tensioner or worn gear cog … anybody got any better suggestions ? Or had the same experience ? Thanks

Hi....welcome to the Club The simplest and most effective and also the cheapest option is to but yourself a Smoke Generator which will instantly identify where the leak is coming from. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315502976341?itmmeta=01KEGZPWYGJ259PS400VMKP27X&hash=item4975715d55 All you need to do is place it in the area where the leak is coming from and unlike water (which tracks to the lowest point from where it is leaking) the smoke goes directly out of the point of entry of the leak. At a cost of £65 and it is something you can do yourself then it negates paying £700 for the diagnosis and more than likely you can repair it yourself. Let us know how you get on with it

Hi there, thanks for adding me! We've had our 2016 X-Trail for just under 2 years and I noticed water coming in under the dash on the drivers side. Nissan looked at it and said it's the sunroof drain leaking, but want nearly £700 to diagnose and fix it. Has anyone else had this problem? Is there anything we can do ourselves to try and clear it? It may be that the drains are perished but I would like to try before spending that much money! Appreciate any advice, thanks.

Nissan's local dealer sent me a email with the repair cost , they also found one of the springs had cracked and needed repairing which turned the cost up to £1294 luckily the warranty covers the cost

Hi, thanks for letting me join the group. I have a 2010 Nissan note and I am having problems resetting the oil service light. When I try to reset as per the manual nothing happens. The spanner symbol is flashing and the zero as soon as the ignition is switched on. Also the when pushing the right hand trip button the clock will not adjust.

Hi Can anyone recommend a reliable garage in Maidstone to service my 2013 Qashqai? I just moved there so need some guidance. Thanks in advance.

Sometimes when I accelerate from a slow speed eg approaching a roundabout - there is a lack of response unless I rapidly tap the accelerator and and then get a response. Dealer says issue is relearn gearbox - a software download from Nissan headquarters - that in my case is not working. Has anyone else had a similar issue and was it resolved?

Slight correction , the basic harness has only 1 whit plug and no canbus . They all “work” but none allow SWC !! The “SWC APP” built into the head unit does not recognise the buttons being pressed !!

Am I correct in thinking that a pulsar with no factory fitted 360 or reversing camera (2015) can NOT have the steering wheel controls function with a Chinese android aftermarket head unit ? - it came with 2 canbus and 3 harnesses - 1 fits and works , 1 has the 2 connectors but one of them is too small but works when fitted , and the 3rd basic one has no canbus and not 1 white plug but works pretty much the same except for spatial adjustment ( fixed as centre for sound )

Hi from Ireland

Cheers Steve for that,has put my mind at ease a bit got the car booked in on Thursday for them to check it out let you know the outcome

Hello... I have a 2014 Nissan 370z with only 6,100 miles that has suddenly developed an intermittent clutch issue. I lose cluth pedal and goes to floor occasionally, and the car can sit for a few days, and the problem goes away. Clutch and transmission will then operate perfectly for a week or two, and then the loss of pedal issue appears again. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Chuck

Hi, Yes, unless you have modified it, damaged it yourself then you should be fine. Don't take any BS from them. Stand your ground but be polite and things will go easily.

My led headlight has a malfunction, I've only had my car for eight months and I've got two years warranty on it should this be covered for repair

Oh nice easy fix then - could have done quite a bit of damage to the electronics if it had come off completely. Glad to hear its fine now.

not sure that you can but if you can remove the chain cover by removing the studs individually then that would be easier and also as long as the valves have not contacted the pistons then it should be okay

I think possibly the same as when you take the fob apart it is a known fault on some of the fobs for the lock/unlock buttons on the fob (*which can be separate to the boot lock) become detached from the circuit board, (*depending on which fob you have). You can repair the fob with a kit from eBay and as long as you have soldering skills and a steady hand then its a very cheap job to do https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=2014+nissan+note+fob+repair+kit+microswitches&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_odkw=2014+nissan+note+fob+repair+kit&_osacat=0

This would be transmission drag generated by the various components in the transfer box being rotated with one or more wheels on the ground. Equally there is transmission wind-up which can be dangerous if undoing wheel nuts and the wheel is free to turn with tremendous force which can break an arm so be careful if the car has been driven around on tarmac and with sharp turning (such as driving onto a driveway).

I would start with any serviceable items that are overdue, oil, filter, air filter, fuel filter, etc then I would also be checking for the condition of rubber vacuum and breather hoses to see if they are split or perished. This can usually be identified by a hissing noise with the engine running at idle. Replace parts if you find any damage to the hoses or gaskets around the intake system (inlet manifold, etc) Alternatively, it may be something as simple as an exhaust leak - place a rag over the rear silencer tailpipe with the engine at idle speed (outside in the fresh air to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning) and if you hear a hissing from the exhaust front section, manifold or oxygen sensor(s) then that is your fault.

Reconditioned transmission would be the best way forwards or if not a secondhand used transmission from a wreckers yard as it may have been replaced before the vehicle was scrapped. Either way, ensure that it is the proper fluid going into the replacement transmission and change regularly (before it is due)