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Deutsch: Hallo, wie ich sehe habt ihr das selbe Problem wie ich, an meinem Quashkai j11 mit 1.33 Liter Benziner. Ich habe auch ein gerichtliches Gutachten, auf deutsch. Leider hat der Gutachter nicht genau sagen können, mit was der Schaden angefangen hat. Das Thermostat und das Gehäuse, die Kopfdichtung und der Flüssigkeitsströmungsbegrenzer sind defekt . Die Wasserpumpe war in Ordnung. Während der Fahrt, kam bei mir auch kein Warnsymbol am Display. Erst später, als ich schon mit dem Auto am Straßenrand stand. Der Motor hat sich fest gefressen und das Kühlwasser ist sofort entwichen. Erfahren habe ich auch, dass der Quashkai J11 keinen Sensor besitzt, der erkennen kann, wie viel Kühlmittelwasser noch während der Fart vorhanden ist. Dies hat der Gutachter schriftlich bewiesen. Und meine Abgassensoren, die normaler weiße auch eine Meldung zeigen sollten, haben beide eine Funktionsstörung gehabt, laut Lesegerät vom Gutachter. Also höchstwahrscheinlich sind die Kabeln wie bei einem anderen Nutzer weggeschmolzen. Habt ihr bereits welche Resultate erziehlen können? Habt ihr auch irgend etwas schriftliches, wie ein Gutachten ? Damit ich es dem Gericht vorweisen kann? Ich habe nämlich noch Garantie und Gewährleistung auf dieses Auto. English:Hello, I see you have the same problem as me with my Quashkai j11 with a 1.33-liter gasoline engine. I also have a court report in German. Unfortunately, the expert was unable to say exactly what caused the damage. The thermostat and housing, the head gasket, and the fluid flow restrictor are defective. The water pump was fine. While driving, no warning symbol appeared on the display. Only later, when I was already standing on the side of the road with the car. The engine seized up and the coolant immediately leaked out. I also learned that the Quashkai J11 does not have a sensor that can detect how much coolant is still available while driving. The expert proved this in writing. And my exhaust sensors, which should normally also display a message, both had a malfunction, according to the expert's reading device. So most likely, the cables melted away, as was the case with another user. Have you already achieved any results? Do you also have anything in writing, such as an expert opinion? So that I can present it to the court? I still have a warranty and guarantee on this car. Translated with DeepL.com (free version)

Thank you so much for responding with the solution - I'm sure many members will benefit from your time in diagnosing and cost (albeit a cheap component) rather than replacing everything in a process of elimination.

Replaced the drivers main switch with a £14 Amazon special with lights and everything works perfectly. Rear windows now work as intended. Rear passenger window is a little slow so will replace the motor next month. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09CG5RS6Z?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title This is the unit i used. Green lights are pretty bright. Might look at changing out the passenger switch and see if there's a DIY thread somewhere with changing the dash lights to green also.

Can't say that I have noticed exhaust pipes being this colour except for when engine oil has been sprayed over the exhaust and stained it

pipe from catalytic converter is black is this normal?

The oil level sensor should be on the sump and as long as you have topped it up on a level surface then it should give a true reading - it may be worth checking the connection to the sensor and ensure not contaminated with water, corrosion, mud, etc

Not sure as the car is quite new so unless something has damaged the reservoir bottle or a hose has come detached ?

Hi all! I have a 1.5 DCI K9K QQ J10. On Saturday she gave me an "oil level low" in the morning. A few hours later when I started her, she then presented me with "oil sensor error visit dealer". After this journey, I topped up the oil (it was low) but the error hasnt cleared. What can I do? Failing this, where is the oil level sensor? Can anyone provide me with a diagram so I can DIY it?

Why all water leaks from quashqai 2024 windshield bottle when fill?

Thanks for the update chris!!

UPDATE So it appears we may have FINALLY sorted this issue. It seems it was the suspension top mount. There was play in the mount as they showed me after they replaced it. So far so good, no noise. I will update further if it come back.

Yeah Trevor I generally get 3 months warranty out but with this being a newish car they gave 2 years for the price of 1

Great diagnosis and sometimes you can narrow it down to one part (hopefully a cheapish part) and then throw caution to the wind - it then either works or it doesn't.

Thank you. I'll give that a try. So the rear N/S rear window gets 0.69v when operated from the drivers switch and the O/S rear window gets 3.67v when operated from the driver switch. I've pulled the driver switch apart and there's a 47uf 35v vt capacitor that was very loose and broke off. I've managed to solder it back on to close the windows. I'm going to order a ne Drivers windows switch and replace before i continue to trace the issue. Ground's seem good. I used some extra wire to bypass the ground on the plug and nothing changed. I know the rear switches work as when i hold down the Drivers switch and toggle the rear switch the window stops moving so i know the rear switch is inturupting the driver switch signal but the rear switch is just not sending the signal down to the motor. So i assume there's some back/forth with the main switch/BCM which is not getting completed. Fingers crossed it's the main drivers switch and not the BCM module. I may have to buy a laptop and grab a copy of Nissan Consult III. The service manual suggests there's a BCM test for windows which might be handy to identify the issue.

Thats a great outcome - and warranties are handy for that reason

I would read reviews of different independent garages on Trustpilot and then narrow down to one you think you can trust (not always the cheapest one)

Is the engine petrol or diesel ? Turbocharged?

I guess it depends what the load is in the back - loose rubble or large (but lightweight) objects. Ultimately, the brakes will adjust on the rear to how much load is being carried but the tyres will only ever be suitable to certain speeds and loads. I always work on the principle of driving the appropriate speed for the roads and conditions.

Wow! very low mileage 370z - got to be very rare nowadays. Assuming it is hydraulic system - if so then I would replace the fluid and bleed through the system. If it has been sat around for quite some time which I'm sure it has with that low mileage then the fluid may have degraded and allowing air into the system over time.

Hi @Pasquale welcome to the club - great to have you onboard !

That is a sensible conclusion and maybe worth removing the valve cover to get a better view of the chain and tensioners (endoscope is good for observing further down inside the engine. If wear is obvious on any components then maybe worth planning to put a new chainset in the engine

Sorry, I have no idea but maybe worth sending email to the Chinese company to ask the question or do away with the steering wheel controls - did the same on my X-Trail and couldn't get the controls working so just didn't bother with them

Hi @Busted Flush and welcome to the club You seem to have managed to undertake the maintenance tasks rather well considering your 'advancing years' - I'm finding I can't do some of the jobs I used to do but luckily don't have to do repairs much nowadays. In regards to the starting fault - I would look at chassis earth points and leads. If any of them are suspect you can always run an auxiliary earth lead from the engine to the chassis and chassis to battery negative (a jump lead would be okay to use to test if more current is reaching the starter motor and glow plugs. As for the other repairs these seem to be standard faults with the Juke but apart from that they are damn fine car. We have one in the family and it is superb in every way. You mention the floppy gearshift. Ours suffers from that also but as no parts available I was thinking of doing something similar to the one you made. Would it be possible to upload a photo of the shim assembly you made so I can also produce one to resolve the issue? Good to have you onboard and keep us updated

Thats an odd one but I would start by peeling back the rubber gaiters running into the rear doors and check for any breaks in the wiring. After that, I would put a secondary earth to the earth connections on wiring and ensure that there is a decent earth to complete the circuit - let us know how you get on with it

Hey so my drivers main switch operates the rear two windows if you press the lock switch it stops operating the rear windows. So this is working just fine. My problem is the rear switches won't operate the rear windows on their own. Only the main drivers switch operates them. I've hooked the rear switches to the front passenger and they work just fine so the switch itself is good. I've tested continuity with the up/down pins to ground (See picture) which shows as good. The power when the front switch is used to lower/raise the rear window reads at 0.69v and does move the windows albeit slowly. What i have noticed is when i put the rear switch in to the front, i get 12v across all pins where as the rear i get zero reading until the front main switch is operated and then it's only 0.69v. Is this a main switch issue, BCM issue or something else? Front switches work just fine and operate all windows as they should, rear switches do nothing except stop me from using the front switch to raise/lower the window when someone presses on the switch while i operate them from the front. The wire colour is from left to right. Yellow, Red, Yellow, Blue, White. With the top pin being a thin black wire which i can't figure out what it does.