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Yeah Trevor I generally get 3 months warranty out but with this being a newish car they gave 2 years for the price of 1

Great diagnosis and sometimes you can narrow it down to one part (hopefully a cheapish part) and then throw caution to the wind - it then either works or it doesn't.

Thank you. I'll give that a try. So the rear N/S rear window gets 0.69v when operated from the drivers switch and the O/S rear window gets 3.67v when operated from the driver switch. I've pulled the driver switch apart and there's a 47uf 35v vt capacitor that was very loose and broke off. I've managed to solder it back on to close the windows. I'm going to order a ne Drivers windows switch and replace before i continue to trace the issue. Ground's seem good. I used some extra wire to bypass the ground on the plug and nothing changed. I know the rear switches work as when i hold down the Drivers switch and toggle the rear switch the window stops moving so i know the rear switch is inturupting the driver switch signal but the rear switch is just not sending the signal down to the motor. So i assume there's some back/forth with the main switch/BCM which is not getting completed. Fingers crossed it's the main drivers switch and not the BCM module. I may have to buy a laptop and grab a copy of Nissan Consult III. The service manual suggests there's a BCM test for windows which might be handy to identify the issue.

Thats a great outcome - and warranties are handy for that reason

I would read reviews of different independent garages on Trustpilot and then narrow down to one you think you can trust (not always the cheapest one)

Is the engine petrol or diesel ? Turbocharged?

I guess it depends what the load is in the back - loose rubble or large (but lightweight) objects. Ultimately, the brakes will adjust on the rear to how much load is being carried but the tyres will only ever be suitable to certain speeds and loads. I always work on the principle of driving the appropriate speed for the roads and conditions.

Wow! very low mileage 370z - got to be very rare nowadays. Assuming it is hydraulic system - if so then I would replace the fluid and bleed through the system. If it has been sat around for quite some time which I'm sure it has with that low mileage then the fluid may have degraded and allowing air into the system over time.

Hi @Pasquale welcome to the club - great to have you onboard !

That is a sensible conclusion and maybe worth removing the valve cover to get a better view of the chain and tensioners (endoscope is good for observing further down inside the engine. If wear is obvious on any components then maybe worth planning to put a new chainset in the engine

Sorry, I have no idea but maybe worth sending email to the Chinese company to ask the question or do away with the steering wheel controls - did the same on my X-Trail and couldn't get the controls working so just didn't bother with them

Hi @Busted Flush and welcome to the club You seem to have managed to undertake the maintenance tasks rather well considering your 'advancing years' - I'm finding I can't do some of the jobs I used to do but luckily don't have to do repairs much nowadays. In regards to the starting fault - I would look at chassis earth points and leads. If any of them are suspect you can always run an auxiliary earth lead from the engine to the chassis and chassis to battery negative (a jump lead would be okay to use to test if more current is reaching the starter motor and glow plugs. As for the other repairs these seem to be standard faults with the Juke but apart from that they are damn fine car. We have one in the family and it is superb in every way. You mention the floppy gearshift. Ours suffers from that also but as no parts available I was thinking of doing something similar to the one you made. Would it be possible to upload a photo of the shim assembly you made so I can also produce one to resolve the issue? Good to have you onboard and keep us updated

Thats an odd one but I would start by peeling back the rubber gaiters running into the rear doors and check for any breaks in the wiring. After that, I would put a secondary earth to the earth connections on wiring and ensure that there is a decent earth to complete the circuit - let us know how you get on with it

Hey so my drivers main switch operates the rear two windows if you press the lock switch it stops operating the rear windows. So this is working just fine. My problem is the rear switches won't operate the rear windows on their own. Only the main drivers switch operates them. I've hooked the rear switches to the front passenger and they work just fine so the switch itself is good. I've tested continuity with the up/down pins to ground (See picture) which shows as good. The power when the front switch is used to lower/raise the rear window reads at 0.69v and does move the windows albeit slowly. What i have noticed is when i put the rear switch in to the front, i get 12v across all pins where as the rear i get zero reading until the front main switch is operated and then it's only 0.69v. Is this a main switch issue, BCM issue or something else? Front switches work just fine and operate all windows as they should, rear switches do nothing except stop me from using the front switch to raise/lower the window when someone presses on the switch while i operate them from the front. The wire colour is from left to right. Yellow, Red, Yellow, Blue, White. With the top pin being a thin black wire which i can't figure out what it does.

Hello I have had my 2014 Dci 1.5 Nissan Juke tekna for 5 years now ( I am 78 years of age) it will probably be my last car, I have never seen another one like it, that colour with the white highlights and diesel, it costs £20 a year road tax, important for a pensioner and is extremely good on fuel consumption This is a facelift model, blue with white wing mirrors and eyebrows front and rear, as I call them, it is a high mileage model and I bought it by accident as it was a courtesy car from my local garage, this was 6 years newer than the car I owned at the time, as it was high mileage it cost £3000 and £1000 part exchange for my old Ford Focus. It was reluctant to start just turning over and over, this stumped two local garages, but was fixed by the main Nissan dealer in Norwich, the main fuse adjacent to the battery had gone, this was also expensive. After this I have had several problems, leaking air con compressor, this was replaced by the main dealer again, also they found a wire off behind the dashboard. My local garage did not seem keen to replace the glow plugs, so I did this myself, a bit fiddly but I managed OK, they cost £17 each from my local motor factor. I also replaced all the brakes this summer including the discs and parking brake shoes, the parts cost £215, this was not easy owing to my advanced age but a lot cheaper than the garage, the worst part of this job was the parking brake shoes, there is a small spring and sort of nail arrangement that hold the brake shoes in place, very fiddly as you need to hold them at the back whilst pushing at the front against the spring The car also had a very loose gearstick, I solved this by removing the centre consul and taking the gearstick out, uncliping the cables, the bottom of the gearstick sits in a nylon socket, this wears, I was able to make an aluminum circular shim which surrounded the nylon bush, a bit fiddly but the gearstick is now positive I also replaced the drivers seat owing to wear The most recent job I did was non working windscreen washers, parts are cheap on EBay, the actual problem was a blocked 'Y' valve under the long plastic scuttle panel I carefully levered this up at the front and was then able to pull all the pipe out and the small blocked fitting. I replaced this with a 'Y' fitting that I bought on ebay with new pipe, I also replaced the pump and bottle under the front rear arch with second hand but newer ones, I made a slight modification when replacing the tubing, thinking it may happen again I ran the tube along the front of the scuttle panel under the bonnet of course and drilled through adjacent to the jets before connecting up, the pipes are hidden behind the millboard which clips on, this also keeps the tubing away from the wiper arm mechanism which runs under the panel

Hi, please can someone help ,I'm in need of a evaporater for my 97 model nissan pulsar

I recently attended a speed awareness course - I was driving a car and not my Navara when caught. One section of the course covered speed limits - specifically the lower limits for vans on certain types of roads. Some pickups are classified as vans (based on their kerb weight) and therefore subject to these (lower) limits. Has anyone any personal experience of this?

Pulsar 2015 , Car is mostly running smoothly , no starting issues . There is an issue with the cruse controls , they keep disengaging randomly - I did a scan and came up with this error : P0356 , camshaft position sensor B, circuit bank 1 , current / pending / permanent .. when I cleared them the permanent stayed and the other 2 went away till I drove the car . I replaced the sensor with an after market one - worse I replaced it with a genuine part - a bit better , but still issue . I’m thinking a faulty wire or morn likely a stretched timing chain / tensioner or worn gear cog … anybody got any better suggestions ? Or had the same experience ? Thanks

Hi....welcome to the Club The simplest and most effective and also the cheapest option is to but yourself a Smoke Generator which will instantly identify where the leak is coming from. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315502976341?itmmeta=01KEGZPWYGJ259PS400VMKP27X&hash=item4975715d55 All you need to do is place it in the area where the leak is coming from and unlike water (which tracks to the lowest point from where it is leaking) the smoke goes directly out of the point of entry of the leak. At a cost of £65 and it is something you can do yourself then it negates paying £700 for the diagnosis and more than likely you can repair it yourself. Let us know how you get on with it

Hi there, thanks for adding me! We've had our 2016 X-Trail for just under 2 years and I noticed water coming in under the dash on the drivers side. Nissan looked at it and said it's the sunroof drain leaking, but want nearly £700 to diagnose and fix it. Has anyone else had this problem? Is there anything we can do ourselves to try and clear it? It may be that the drains are perished but I would like to try before spending that much money! Appreciate any advice, thanks.

Nissan's local dealer sent me a email with the repair cost , they also found one of the springs had cracked and needed repairing which turned the cost up to £1294 luckily the warranty covers the cost

Hi, thanks for letting me join the group. I have a 2010 Nissan note and I am having problems resetting the oil service light. When I try to reset as per the manual nothing happens. The spanner symbol is flashing and the zero as soon as the ignition is switched on. Also the when pushing the right hand trip button the clock will not adjust.

Hi Can anyone recommend a reliable garage in Maidstone to service my 2013 Qashqai? I just moved there so need some guidance. Thanks in advance.

Sometimes when I accelerate from a slow speed eg approaching a roundabout - there is a lack of response unless I rapidly tap the accelerator and and then get a response. Dealer says issue is relearn gearbox - a software download from Nissan headquarters - that in my case is not working. Has anyone else had a similar issue and was it resolved?