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Sounds like you have sorted it then - well done! You have done all the checks in the correct way and come to the right conclusion Only other thing maybe to recode the throttle body which was a thing on the slightly older Micra but may still apply A good scan tool should have this function on it

You could try using different protocol settings on the scanners (if available) to read the codes

Sorry that no one responded to your post. One of the reasons on the old Micra 4 cylinder engine for poor idle was carbon build up in the throttle body. When it is cleaned out and refitted, you would then have to perform a reset on it through a diagnostic scan tool which should sort it

Well after the influx of msg on here 😒 I bit the bullet and bought 3 new coil packs. Turns out the readings I gave above are correct and I didn’t need the 150 quids worth of coil packs.

Kind of resolved this now a bit. It still has a slightly rough idle in my opinion but it is a 3 cylinder so could just be the nature of the car?? any way I metered out the coil packs all seem to be the same and as I don’t know what they are supposed to be I’m going with they are ok? I also unplugged them one by one and the engine started to misfire as expected. I removed the throttle Body and gave it a good clean. It wasn’t too bad but there was a little bit of oil in there. I also unplugged the fuel solenoid purge valve and let it run for a second or so and plugged it back in. I also found that both battery terminals were very loose! So they got tightened up as well. Since doing this it seems to idle better. The only time the revs seem to hunt is when the ac is on now and the highest it goes is up to about a 1000 when the clutch kicks in which I’d kind of expect as there is extra load on the engine.

hi all does anybody know how to check fault codes on a 2017 nissan micra K13 x 1.2 litre petrol i have 2 scanners ( cheapies ) which reads my kia fine but this nissan cant connect to ECU

Hi does any one know what the resistance values across the coil pack should be? my 2017 micra is running a bit rough and hunts on idle but I can’t see or hear any air leaks. iv serviced the car including new iridium plugs and just put a full tank of premium fuel with red ex fuel cleaner init. I’m kinda running out of options on what this could be. Next step is to clean the throttle body but I’m thinking possible coil pack issue as well. im getting 79.4kohm between pins 1&3 and 0.47Kohm between pins 1&2 and 79.45kohm between pins 2&3 and that’s on all 3 coil packs as well ( slight differences between them) there is no EML light on the dash either and my scanners are not picking any fault codes up

Hi Iv just picked up a 2017 micra with the 0.9ltr engine in from Copart. It’s got a slightly rough idle, Iv just replaced the plugs and oil and filters on the car as I don’t know the history. It’s done 54k miles the evap system seem to be working ok. I don’t have a vacume pump to check properly but it’s not getting blow by out the dipstick or the filler cap. im a bit to remove the throttle body and clean it but after this I’m kinda stumped. Unfortunately my code reader is showing nothing on the system and there is no lights on the dash. Short of replacing all the coil packs I’m stuck. Any ideas?? on start up it also has a high idle as well seems to sit around 1500 and then drops off to around 800. I’d expect this on a cold morning for the cold start but it’s not been cold.

Thanks for that info Trevor.

You could try IceBox Autos who make units to specifically fit your car

Our 2018 Micra K14 does not have the Carplay unit fitted which is annoying my wife who is the main driver. Does anyone please know if there is a aftermarket Carplay unit that actually works that we can have fitted to this vehicle?

a quick search with Google Lens reveals some results Just right click over the image above and select search with Google Lens and it brings up results of products that roughly match the clips you're looking for

Hi, my mum has a 2005 Micra, she doesn’t want to sell it, ever. It has c40k mileage and drives like a dream! But, the tailgate switch has failed and I’m struggling to get a replacement - it’s the intelligent key version - part number 25380AX10B. Any ideas please?? There loads of the 25380AX60B but these aren’t compatible with the intelligent key. Thanks in anticipation!

Hi, We have a 2009 Nissan Micra K12 and after a replacement Parcel shelf clip as per the attached picture. Can anyone advise on a part number or where they can be purchased?

I recently got a 2019 Tekna which I'm finding is very "jittery" at low speeds, particularly when cold. Anyone else finding the sane?

I'm having problems removing my wheels, having taken out the 4 wheel bolts the wheel seems to be stuck to the hub of the wheel. Any help please.

I need new wiper blades for my 2020 K14 Micra because the current ones put smudges on my windshield. Please Give me some suggestions

I want to tune a 2020 Micra K14 with a HR10DET engine pls give me any suggestions

If it were me I would go over everything I have touched and ensure it is not damaged (as much as you can determine) and that there is nothing interfering with the component or wiring coming from it. This has worked many times for me when I have been in a rush and not noticed something simple

I have a K12 which I bought a few months back. I didnt realise at the time but the air-con does not work! Initially there was no revs increase or fan activation along with no click from the compressor. So the first thing I did was to recharge the system. This fixed the revs increase and fan activation but not the compressor clutch issue. Eventually I ended up at the IDPM and looking at the 10a fuse there which is in tact. I did wonder about the empty relay slot and thought I would move one of the other (fan 1 / 3) relays into the slot to see if that made any difference. It was a struggle to get the relay out so I moved down to the bottom - Relay 9 and tried levering that out with a screw-driver. Of course the screwdriver pierced the casing and I ended up destroying that relay. This left me with a car that turned over but wouldn't start! As I needed the car and had no other relays I could use, I decided to jump the relay as a temporary fix. This worked although has left me with some odd behaviour. Now when the ignition goes off and even with the key removed, the sidelights, rear lights and number plate light come on for around 5-10 minutes before going out. The replacement relay arrived yesterday and I fitted that, it threw a U1001 code and wouldn't start, I cleared the code and tried again but still no joy and the code returned. It did, however fix the odd behaviours I mentioned above! I removed the relay and, again, jumped it so I could drive but the odd behaviour has of course returned although, I am now able to clear the U1001 code permanently. I have a new (second-hand) IPDM on the way and I plan on either using it as a donor to repair the damage I have done and possibly replace the A/C relay inside OR just try to swap the eproms over. Does anyone have any ideas as to what I may have damaged? Ive checked all fuses other than the fusible links and the four coming off the battery terminals. I'll get to those once the new unit arrives. Also, is there any risk of damage running the car as it is now? Any ideas or help would be very gratefully received!

Hi enzso ....welcome to the club There is a reset procedure for the CVT transmission which may benefit you. CM (Transmission Control Module) reset by cycling the ignition and pressing the accelerator pedal, or disconnecting the battery. https://www.google.com/search?q=nissan+k13+automatic+gearbox+reset&rlz=1C5MACD_en&oq=nissan+k13+automatic+gearbox+reset&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIHCAEQIRigAdIBCTE0NzQ0ajBqN6gCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 There are also videos on how to reset the transmission in this search link (above)

Just bought a K13 Micra auto with 80k on the odo. The gearbox is smooth and shifts well but I've noticed when it shifts from 3rd to 4th at around 40mph I get that familiar rumble when the revs are too low for the gear. The noise stays until I'm up around 45-50mph. It makes it tricky in 40mph zones as I'm having to use the overdrive switch to shift the car back to 3rd. Any tips?

Many thanks for this. Really helpful reply. Greg

As long as the rolling diameter (overall diameter of the wheels / tyres) is the same all round then it shouldn't flag an ABS issue. You are able to have matched wheels on each axle and again they would need to be the same diameter as the others but do not need to be the same width