Overview

Thank you

I would start by checking the electrical connection into the motor and if it spins up when you turn everything on the there's the problem

Any idea what it could be though?

I would start by removing the glovebox to see how much access you gain, if not much then continue to remove more dashboard components

After some help. My air blower is intermittent, some tomes it works sometimes it doesn't. Fuse has been checked, not sure if a new fan is required? Do you get to it by taking the glovebox out rather than the whole dashboard?

Hi. (This site isn’t allowing me to select the Micra Forum). Just acquired (legally) a 2013 K13 Micra, which came without parking sensors. Online options are so numerous, what a minefield! Any advice out there? Anything gratefully received.

UPDATE Can anyone tell me if this photo shows that the engine management light bulb is actually missing? If so can this be replaced or do I need a whole new unit? Thanks

Hi. Just reg’d on here. My aunt just bought from a dealer, a 2013 ‘30th Ed’ 1.2 Micra - manual drive (which I’ve just discovered from online world is a K13, though the paperwork doesn’t state this. I drive this myself. When viewing, I asked the dealer what the thin plastic tape wrapped around a rubber pipe (possibly a manifold pipe? - sits just behind the rad’ fan and attaches somewhere under the battery plate…?) is about. He felt it and stated there’s a crack/split in the pipe and that they’d have it replaced. Before collection, by phone, the dealer advised that it wasn’t a split pipe and so doesn’t need replacing. Typhoon, I forgot what his colleague told us about it when we got there, though the gist of it was that it’s normal/standard. What they had done is replaced the thin ad-hoc looking tape with black plastic (insulation ?) tape. Any thoughts on this (tricky w/o a photo I know; can attach one tomorrow). Any K13 owners/drivers out there who recognise this? Thanks in advance.

Does anyone know why, when I disconnect and reconnect the battery my hardtop opens and closes perfectly, but, when I come to open it next day it won't open until I disconnect and reconnect the battery again

Hi I posted on here about an emissions failure earlier. I have just taken my car back for a retest and the emissions are now fine. However it still hasn’t passed the test because it turns out that the engine management light never illuminates even on start up. The tester says it should have been showing up when I had a fault on the emissions. Anyone have any ideas how to trace the problem/fault to rectify this? Thanks

Hi again. I took the car for a retest today after having changed spark plugs and oil and adding additive. Emissions are now fine, however, it brought up a previous fault code P03033 which was still on the system although the engine check light was not lit. It turns out that the engine check light never comes on. The centre will not pass the car until I get this sorted. Any advice please?

I have a Micra Sport C+C Auto. The drivers side quarter light window has dropped into the car body. My garage says I need parts they cannot access. Can anyone help me please? Regulator 83720BC000 Motor 83730BC000 Thank you. If no one can help me then I could well be offering this as a parts bank!!! Regards Jan in Sudbury

I have a Micra Sport C+C Auto. The drivers side quarter light window has dropped into the car body. My garage says I need parts they cannot access. Can anyone help me please? Regulator 83720BC000 Motor 83730BC000 Thank you. If no one can help me then I could well be offering this as a parts bank!!! Regards Jan in Sudbury

I recently bought a 2009 micra hardtop convertible. The roof didn't open but after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery it worked perfectly. But when trying again next day does not work again. Any ideas, thanks in advance

Thank you I will pass that on

The code means 'Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1, Sensor 2)' This sensor (at the back of the catalytic converter) may be faulty and is showing a low reading for the efficiency of the cat. This could be that there is a slight exhaust blow (a bad gasket / joint) in the exhaust system and this is causing the issue A rag held tight over the tailpipe at the rear of the car and listen for any hissing from the exhaust towards the front of the car to establish any leaks that may be present. (obviously Health & Safety needs observing when carrying out this test)

Hi my 2014 Micra failed its emissions test. No lights were showing but on checking got a fault code P0037. Mechanic changed both lambada sensors (not Nissan originals) and the emissions are worse! Another mechanic says it is probably because we did not use Nissan original parts. Before I spend even more money can anyone advice please. Thanks

Cheers Leveller I’ll have a look at that it’s driving me up the wall lol only does it when stationary with foot on brake and when in reverse.

Chris KA. We had the knocking sound when the car was stationary and put into D or R but not when it was in P with just the engine ticking over. The knocking also tended to stop once the car started moving up to speed. After some investigation we found that as the revs lowered when put into D or R it was causing the air intake pipe to vibrate and knock against the engine. It has been zip tied to the cable loom just behind it and the knocking has now stopped. Hopefully yours may be as simple.

Leveller no still not worked out what’s causing it but I’ve also noticed the same knocking sound when in reverse gear.

Did you resolve this? I've had something very similar which we seem to have resolved.

Check the battery power leads and connections Pay particular attention to the earth leads from the battery to the engine, gearbox and chassis for breaks or corrosion

Good evening folks, i am new to this forum and have a quick quetion if any one could hekp me please. I was driving along this evening and my micra cut out and lost power, it now wont start and the ignition will not come on. My battery is working fine as i have good lights Can anyone advise me please to what might be wrong Thanks Peter

I’ve just realised it does the same knocking sound when reversing too.

The ECU unit from an Auto K13 2016 / 2019 - I have read that it will work in a manual K13 2012 / 2014 ( ok you have to change the ECU Wiring loom to allow for the ABS unit which appears to be the only main difference.) The fuse box is the same and as you are not changing the engine wiring harness to the injectors etc that should be fine The interior wiring loom i know will have to be changed to a newer one, again, it should not matter if the harness is from an auto or manual, so long as you have the correct BCM and Push Start (if required) Has anyone done this successfully ? or tried and failed and gone back to just swapping out the ECU unit for a newer manual one ? - Really interested in hearing your thoughts.