Trevor

Hi Scott Definitely a flat battery and if it has died after only three weeks of not being used then it is time for a replacement one. Would advise to but a premium battery if there is not too much difference in cost as much better in the long run Cheers, Trevor

Hi Paul....welcome to the Forum Hopefully all the teething problems will settle down now it has reached this mileage. Still, if you could extend the warranty it may be worthwhile in the long run. Good to have you onboard Cheers, Trevor

Nearly 50% of all cars that fail an MOT do so because of small faults that could be avoided by simple, at-home car maintenance. These problems are easy to correct, and fixing them before taking the car in for its MOT could help you pass first time and avoid garage costs. To help, Ring, the automotive specialist in bulbs, wipers, battery care and tyre care, has some advice on the simple things that can be done to avoid an MOT fail. Lights and signalling – 17.8% failure rate 4.5m cars fail because of lamps, reflectors and electrics every year. Doing a quick bulb check before you take the vehicle to the garage could avoid an MOT fail. Make sure you check all the exterior bulbs – this includes the side light, indicator, tail light and number plate lights. The registration plate lamp being out accounts for 4.5% of MOT fails. When it comes to headlamps, there are plenty of options out there, including upgrades to help bulbs last longer or put more light on road for safer driving. We recommend you always replace bulbs in pairs, to ensure the light output is equal from both headlights. Ring stocks a range of bulbs, including long life versions, and for headlamps, try the new Xenon150 bulbs (nationwide – SSP £39.99), which put up to 150% more light on road without compromising on life. Tyre condition – 7.5% failure rate Well maintained tyres are essential to ensure safe driving – and neglecting them could mean a failed MOT. The legal requirement for tyre tread on passenger vehicles up to eight seats is 1.6mm, but studies show that when the tread drops below 3mm, stopping distance begins to be significantly affected. Checking tyre tread is easy and requires a simple depth gauge. However, to ensure your tyres are both safe and helping cut down fuel consumption, drivers need to check the pressure as well. For a digital gauge that gives accurate readings on a large backlit screen, records the correct pressure and has an integrated LED light, Ring suggests the RTG7 Programmable Digital Tyre Pressure & Tread Depth Gauge. This is easy to store in the car and easy to use, wherever you are. Available nationwide, SSP £24.99. While there is no legal requirement for tyre pressure, under- or over-inflated tyres will reduce the traction between the tyre and the road, making driving less safe and less fuel efficient. For easy pressure top ups, try the Ring RAC635 Digital Tyre Inflator, with preset for accurate inflation. This industry-recognised inflator can inflate a 13” tyre from flat to 35PSI in under 3 minutes – making tops up quick and simple. Driver’s view of the road – 6.8% failure rate Cracks in the windscreen and worn wipers are a big reason for vehicles to fail. As wiper deteriorate gradually, drivers often don’t realise they are no longer clearing the windscreen effectively. Choosing and fitting the right blade can seem tricky, but Ring’s new range of Ultravision Wiper Blades (SSP £9.99 to £13.99) make blade selection easy. The unique, patent-pending clip fits 95% of the car parc, meaning that drivers just need to know the blade length for their vehicle to select the correct blade. The clip adapts to fit the seven most common wiper arms. Henry Bisson, Marketing Manager at Ring, says “Motorists could be making savings by carrying out basic checks and maintenance at home, but often they don’t realise that these minor faults could cause an MOT fail. What’s more, having well-maintained tyre, blade and lighting are driving safety essentials, so making sure they are regularly checked and replaced when necessary is critical.” For more details on Ring’s range of bulbs, wiper blades and tyre care, visit www.ringautomotive.com

Hi Gregor....welcome to the Forum If the local garage can obtain the bushes separately then they shouldn't have too much problem fitting them, although it helps if they have the right bush removal tools otherwise it can be a bit of struggle sometimes. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Hi Sith First thoughts are.....there's only one to find out if it fits ! However, in reality you wouldn't want to buy an engine and transmission only to find out that the transplant doesn't pan out as it should. Hope you find the definitive answer....and if you do, please let us know as it would be an interesting project to follow Cheers, Trevor

Your quite right Moff and it does make you wonder if its worth taking out extended warranties on cars nowadays.

Thanks for the input Moff I had forgotten about that. Resting the left foot on the clutch pedal, no matter how gently or light the pressure, it still takes up the working clearance between the release bearing and the cover plate which can either cause the clutch to slip (if enough pressure applied) or alternatively to result in the bearing drilling into the cover diaphragm fingers which creates excess noise when the pedal is not depressed (e.g. at idle). Still, it is worth getting an independent opinion to confirm that it is not faulty parts originally fitted.

Hi Gwen & Brian....welcome to the Forum First thoughts are that if the clutch has been mistreated (which is so very much the situation nowadays with stop/start traffic) then the clutch driven plate would have a blue tinge to it from overheating or the friction lining material on the plate would be excessively worn due to slipping. The DMF is also something that would have excessive play in the separate components due to excessive on/off driving and short-shifting the gears at low speed (noticeable by juddering when pulling away/accelerating). Maybe worth contacting the AA or RAC if you are a member and ask if they do an inspection service....at least if you rock up at the dealer and ask to see the failed parts you would have an independent expert to verify that the parts have failed in service due to poor quality or if you have infact caused the damage yourself. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers, Trevor

good luck and keep us informed on how you get on

Hi You should be able to fit replacement LED bulbs that have the correct fitment without any issues. Plenty on eBay that would do the job...usual rules apply...you get what you pay for though so sometimes worth paying a little bit more for a better quality bulb

Does the car get extended runs at any time? Usually, the DPF blocks up because it is driven around town at low revs and it needs to be run for an extended period on Motorways at a constant speed/revs to regenerate the DPF system. Otherwise, it will always fail in service

Sorry to hear your bad news and its gutting when that happens. Not sure what the cost is but you may want to consider going through insurance with all the checks and replacement parts that you can't see that are damaged....for example; suspension components, alignment, wheel rims or anything else that may have absorbed some impact and got damaged in the process. Keep us updated on the progress

It's a shame that you can't capture the lights upon switching the ignition on as most warning lights momentarily come on then to prove they are working. However, it does sound like a traction control issue...which could be related to incorrect tyre size, pressures, different brand/compound...all of which are unlikely given the age of the vehicle. I would definitely hound the dealer to get to the bottom of the cause as this sound potentially quite dangerous if it is locking up one of the wheels during cornering. ABS would release the brakes and give a cadence braking to regain control whereas, traction control will apply the brake to provide traction and this can occur on cornering but only if you completely take the vehicle past it's capabilities. Let us know how this all goes

glad it's all sorted and thanks for the feedback

Hi ShedHead....welcome to the Forum Can you elaborate on the symbols you get when it starts playing up...maybe a photo of the lights as they come up with the ignition switched on? Cheers, Trevor

Go for it...as you say, it is worth it in the long run. Post up some piccies of the job with a description if you like? Cheers, Trevor

Hi...welcome to the Forum I think in this instance it is a case of having to bite the bullet as the potential loss of oil is quite high from the lower part of the block so not worth taking a chance in my mind. Best get stuck in or send it into a garage...shouldn't cost much in labour and may be easier to replace from underneath the car. Let us know us how you get on with it Cheers, Trevor

Hi Simon It sounds like the settings may have been lost when replacing the battery. Maybe worth reading the handbook to see if there is a default setting, if not then a trip to the dealers I think Good to have you onboard Cheers Trevor

Sometimes timing chains can suffer from slack through insufficient oil pressure so maybe change/flush the oil again and replace with better quality oil? It's a cheaper way than chain replacement and see if that works first

Hi Mark.....weclome to the Forum Great deal for someone who needs a new head Worth regularly checking the state of the chassis as they are prone to heavy corrosion. Good to have you onboard Cheers, Trevor

It could be crankshaft sensor...I would look for live data reading on the injectors when turning it over...no reading, no crank sensor signal. Also, could be timing out in which case I would not drive it and let him come out and check it or use the RAC/AA to recover it to his garage.

Difficult question to answer really...depends on which type of journey you predominantly do as your daily commute, load / speed rating, cost, etc Brands such as Michelin and Goodyear are my preferred favourites for all-round durability and grip

Biggest problem sometimes is inheriting problems with a car that the previous owner has introduced like this. Hopefully the journey involves long stretches to keep the revs high enough for prolonged periods of time....then this should keep it clear. Good luck.

Hi Dave...welcome to the Forum I imagine that the your new purchase is quite low mileage and possibly only used for short journeys, hence the reason the DPF is clogged. Diesels really need to be worked to get the best from them and if not revved sufficiently then they tend to clog up internally. The advice and course of action you are currently following is good and in certain circumstances (e.g. it hasn't blocked too much) then it should work. If it still hasn't cleared after a while then it will have to have a forced regeneration by the dealer or reputable repairer. Once it is clear, then it will involved driving it a distances every so often to let is naturally regenerate and stay clear. Hope that helps and let us know how you get on with it all. Cheers, Trevor

Hi Melissa ... welcome to the Forum Sorry to hear about your problems with the car....the glass roof is an issue that tends to affect many other makes as well (Lexus, being one of them, Audi is another). I believe the fault is with the size of the glass and the fact that it is subjected to the twisting and movement of the vehicle frame....not to mention harsh vibration such as driving through potholes. Although the vehicle looks good with plenty of natural light coming into the cabin, it is fair to say that its not the brightest move by any manufacturer when it comes to design over function. I would personally have the glass replaced and worry about fighting a claim afterwards. It is better than the option of the glass shattering and having to deal with all of that. I wonder also, if your car glass insurance covers it as it is accidental damage(?) Let us know how you get on with it all. Cheers Trevor