Trevor

That's an odd one, as if all the other doors are locking from the remote then so should the passenger door (as it wouldn't be on a separate circuit). Would advise taking it to an auto-electrician to look at.

wow! excellent results....what do you think was the biggest single contributing factor to the increase or is it a combination of various components/work carried out?

You could try clear silicone or double sided sticky tape if nothing else works

There are several different versions I have read over time but one of the does work (sorry, can't remember which sequence to use) but also, if the unlock/lock feature on the fob is not working, check the buttons inside have not fallen off the board. You can get kits to repair them if you're handy with a soldering iron

I think you'll be alright with a generic tool as the Nissan kit is quite a lot of money. I have always used a Snap-On Scanner which reads it rather well.

Not sure about a recall but the cambelt & water pump should just be replaced as a matter of course

These rumours are true but can be resolved quite easily. The cambelt and water pump can be replaced even if it is before it is due and at a reasonable cost, ensuring peace of mind if nothing else. The electrics are quite easy to resolve also, usually poor connectivity with the connectors (poor quality)

Hi...welcome to the Forum Depreciation is a funny thing, depends on the market at the time. I suppose one factor is the second hand market has taken a nose dive with more people getting new cars through personal lease deals and this means more second hand cars not selling, hence the lower price If it checks out okay on an inspection with a new MOT and it has service history then it will probably be a good purchase Let us know how you get on with the purchase decision Cheers Trevor

Hopefully someone will respond to your request, but in the meantime, do you have any piccies of it to upload?

You may be able to get proof of age from another Nissan owners club as unfortunately we do not keep registration details for vehicles (domestic or import). Sorry can't be of any help, good luck with your search

Glad you enjoyed it....I'm sure it won't take long to get used to it

The only other thing I can think of is the Coolant temperature sensor giving out the wrong information....worth checking that because if it is running in the cold setting then it could overfuel the engine.

Hi It sounds like you have picked up some bad quality fuel somewhere along the line. Also, consider replacing the battery if it is still not 100% fit for purpose.....a battery with dead cells or heavily sulphated can cause running faults. Let us know what you find

I would change the engine oil immediately if it is diluted (with diesel) as this can lead to a 'runaway engine' which means the engine oil gets sucked into the combustion chamber and then gets burnt, leading to the engine being able to run on after the engine is switched off, consuming it's own engine oil until it goes bang! If the oil is diluted with diesel fuel then the injectors are possibly leaking/misfuelling which is causing the fuel to leak into the engine oil sump, diluting the oil. Before changing the fuel, I would definitely take it to a diesel specialist who will quickly be able to diagnose the fault and this is more than likely why it is excessively smoking. As for the 4WD situation....are all the prop/drive shafts present...or have one been removed?

Yes, agree...they seem to be quite popular lately

Hi Richard....welcome to the Forum Congratulations on your new car...I think you'll be pleased with it, they're a good little car Cheers Trevor

I would check the throttle potentiometer for a wiring fault...wiggle the wiring to check for poor connections

Hi...welcome to the Forum Sounds like a wiring or body control fault....or could even be a poor earth. Either way, I would take it to an Auto Electrician to check out. I very rarely use the horn either...don't often need to. Cheers Trevor

I think that your suggestion should work fine as the hot water should automatically circulate and find its own way around the system even if you do link it up. Always best to measure the circulating water temperature with a infra-red temperature gun http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Handheld-LCD-Digital-Temperature-Thermometer-Laser-Non-Contact-IR-Infrared-Gun-/131919872146?hash=item1eb7098092:g:pJwAAOSwEzxYWQXd

Hi Peter...welcome to the Forum Would love to see some piccies of the 350Z...sounds like an incredible machine! If you want to start listing the problems (1 by 1) then we can see if we can find a solution to them Cheers Trevor

Totally understand where you're coming from...I'm the same but I draw the line at when it comes to special tools and diagnostic software updates (special tools again!) then got to concede to the specialists for those jobs....or spend a fortune on the tools. Good luck

Hi I would highly recommend taking the vehicle to the dealership for the first few services to keep the service history updated and also to benefit from any recall/updates that may have been released since the vehicle was last in for service. Nowadays, there are a lot of special tools for removal of components and it you cannot see anything obvious on the oil filter housing then quite possibly there is a special tool for this.

Hi You should have some sort of point of entry to the cooling system and as such it should be at the highest point in the engine bay to allow for expansion. On the original car it still would have had one so it should be a case of utilising your original expansion tank and connect it up to the new engine

Looking good!

I would replace the belt if it has approached that mileage and time period as a matter of course and not take the chance