Leaderboard

Great diagnosis and sometimes you can narrow it down to one part (hopefully a cheapish part) and then throw caution to the wind - it then either works or it doesn't.

Thank you. I'll give that a try. So the rear N/S rear window gets 0.69v when operated from the drivers switch and the O/S rear window gets 3.67v when operated from the driver switch. I've pulled the driver switch apart and there's a 47uf 35v vt capacitor that was very loose and broke off. I've managed to solder it back on to close the windows. I'm going to order a ne Drivers windows switch and replace before i continue to trace the issue. Ground's seem good. I used some extra wire to bypass the ground on the plug and nothing changed. I know the rear switches work as when i hold down the Drivers switch and toggle the rear switch the window stops moving so i know the rear switch is inturupting the driver switch signal but the rear switch is just not sending the signal down to the motor. So i assume there's some back/forth with the main switch/BCM which is not getting completed. Fingers crossed it's the main drivers switch and not the BCM module. I may have to buy a laptop and grab a copy of Nissan Consult III. The service manual suggests there's a BCM test for windows which might be handy to identify the issue.

Thats an odd one but I would start by peeling back the rubber gaiters running into the rear doors and check for any breaks in the wiring. After that, I would put a secondary earth to the earth connections on wiring and ensure that there is a decent earth to complete the circuit - let us know how you get on with it

Nissan's local dealer sent me a email with the repair cost , they also found one of the springs had cracked and needed repairing which turned the cost up to £1294 luckily the warranty covers the cost