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Hmm, seems like someone had the issue before and a bodge was carried to rectify the issue (or at least attempt to rectify it). There is an issue with the timing chains and as far as I can see it was a recall from Nissan. It does suggest that it occurs on hard acceleration (e.g. from a slip-road) and if the chain is slack it can drift away from the timing point by a small fraction (much like a loose timing belt) which can then throw a code for cam/crank timing and result in what you are experiencing. I would personally replace the engine oil and look to see what has come out - e.g. metal particles and then replace it with the specified oil which may have not been supplied with previously. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/engine-oil-12094/nissan/pulsar/pulsar-hatchback-c13/107484-1-2-dig-t If you use a quality oil of the correct specifications (as listed in the link above) and see if that makes any difference to how it runs. If no real difference is noted then I would advise to get the timing chain replaced which will almost certainly make a difference if it is worn

New to pathfinders. After doing some light modifications for a bit of off road use and was wondering what stealth winches people are using. Would like to keep the original bumper. Any guides about. Tia

used to see this with black electrical tape. does the job.

I know... so nothing. But, Thanks.

Its such a scam and see it all the time - easy money for the garages. It is possible to fit replacement rubbers if all they are is perished. As long as they are not perforated and leaking grease or if there is any play in the joints then it is perfectly serviceable. Advise on the MOT sheet but not necessary to replace otherwise. Recently fitted a replacement lower arm on wife's Juke and then replaced it a year later as the first (cheaper one) knocked the joint out in no time - more expensive one, quite a bit heavier duty for the N/S location and almost twice the weight. An easy job to carry out yourself and definitely not £1200 worth of repairs. Kept the old rubbers to use if necessary in the future. :-)

I'm sure you will keep finding bodges throughout the car and maybe worthwhile assuming everything needs checking and just work your way through it. If you are lucky you may find the issue which is causing the problems and may not cost you much if anything at all to resolve Let us know how you get on with it

Thanks for your response, after i posted this, I took the car back to the mechanic to have the fault codes checked and none showed up. However, i decided to risk it and drive from Dublin to Longford, during the way for about 10 seconds two seperate time I noticed it struggling continuously and thats when the CEL came on flashing but after I changed speed it smoothed out and the CEL went away immediately. I let it rest for the night, this morning I decided to check for any fitting errors. I found that the air intake duct/snorkel was not properly fitted in the front, so it would've been sucking in the warm air of the engine bay which could cause the engine to struggle under stress. Though as far as I'm aware, this wouldn't cause misfires or CEL but this points towards the previous owner or his mechanic being very rough with their work. (This car has had the internal speakers, headlamps replaced, wiring damaged, connector damaged and incorrectly replaced spark plugs, so someone has been frequently toying with the internals) And this prompted me to check other fittings. The intercooler pipe(?) (image attached below had some issues which I don't know if they could be a clue or not. The right rubber part attaches securely to the middle plastic bit, its nice and tight, however, at the other end of this rubber bit (the far right of the picture, where it would connect to the intercooler) there is a bit of give. I can wiggle it a little. Then the shorter rubber tube (at the left of this image, which goes behind the engine, so I'm guessing connects to the turbo) had slight greasy residue where it connects to the middle plastic bit. Sorry for the word vomit, am I on to something? How did the mechanic even miss that the air intake duct wasn't seated correctly, and surely if they just ran their hand along the rubber tubing here they would've noticed the grease.

Thanks all - found out extra security not needed. Closed topic

Not on late models as it an EU requirement as I understand it. Mine is set up with a shortcut to turn audio warning off by pressing control switch and Okay.

Hi Trevor, thanks for your suggestion. I'm not all that savvy with this internet thing. I'm with Orange in France. I presume when the Micra is asking for my password they mean the long list of letter and numbers that came with my love of. I have had to use that to get the internet on my tablet and laptop . Is there any other password?

Rejection of car initiated but apparently this is a long process!

Hi Trevor Thank for your reply but i have looked there and its not on it.