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Hmm, seems like someone had the issue before and a bodge was carried to rectify the issue (or at least attempt to rectify it). There is an issue with the timing chains and as far as I can see it was a recall from Nissan. It does suggest that it occurs on hard acceleration (e.g. from a slip-road) and if the chain is slack it can drift away from the timing point by a small fraction (much like a loose timing belt) which can then throw a code for cam/crank timing and result in what you are experiencing. I would personally replace the engine oil and look to see what has come out - e.g. metal particles and then replace it with the specified oil which may have not been supplied with previously. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/engine-oil-12094/nissan/pulsar/pulsar-hatchback-c13/107484-1-2-dig-t If you use a quality oil of the correct specifications (as listed in the link above) and see if that makes any difference to how it runs. If no real difference is noted then I would advise to get the timing chain replaced which will almost certainly make a difference if it is worn

I use a smart screen with Android Auto. Then connect my phone via BlueTooth and use Waze map. Less expensive and live updates of accidents, traffic jams etc.

I had the same problem radio cutting off there is a fee upgrade from nissan now work perfectly it's a common problem

Hello, I am joining this forum with hopes to be able to supply you guys with some hard to come by parts for your beloved Nissans, as the title states we are the second oldest Nissan dealer in the uk and we are looking to move some of our older parts that have been stored away for years. I will be doing a follow up post with our parts list which should have thousands of items for you guys to sift through at your leisure, I just wanted to test the waters to see how helpful this would be for you guys, any responses or comments appreciated. Kind regards, Oscar

Hi all! Im thinking of getting a Pathfinder in the next month or two. Wanted something bigger for going fishing/camping and always loved the look of the Pathfinder. Especially the older shape (07/08 models). Has anyone got a rot free one with upgraded timing chain they are thinking of parting with? Thanks in advance 🤘🏻🙂 Harry

Hi, new member here, I'm Simon Currently have a 2024 Nissan Qashqai but previously had a Juke (2021-24), 61 plate Micra (2013-2021), 08 plate Micra (2009-13), 05 plate Micra (2005-08) and 52 plate Micra (2002-05) The missing year in all that I had a Fiat Punto but we don't talk about that (worst car i ever owned!)

Nissan are looking into my new car that was not giving the advertised range of 759 miles on delivery as they said it should (only giving 660 a 100 mile discrepancy. Car delivered with full fuel tank and only delivery mileage of 10 miles). second tank fill still only 660 range. Awaiting their investigation!

Hey guys, not sure if this is the right place to post "for sale". Sorry about that. I'm selling my 1 owner Pathfinder SE. 70,125 miles. Engine and trans in perfect running condition. Does need a SAS and flex plate. I have all service/oil change receipts. Asking $4500 neg.

So, here's the saga. Offside Drum collapsed inside, my fault- long story. Anyway, new drums, studs, bearings, shoes, spring kit purchased, but could I find an ABS ring for the pixo anywhere? Nope! Eventually, Vertu Nissan offered me 2 rings for £201!!! Bought 2 used drums, cleaned/painted and fitted. ABS light turned off 👍 Moral of the story: Parts like this are becoming very difficult to get. Also, does anyone have any ABS rings? I have 2 brand new drums, with new bearings pressed in and ready to. They'll need the fings fitted, obviously. You can have them both for £50 plus whatever the p&p will be Tony

Hi, welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

its amazing how powerful the media can be in resolving such issues with manufacturers - keep trying as you may get a good outcome

I have experienced something very similar. On researching a "fix" I found that holding down the central on/off/volume button for 10 seconds will reset the system.

I wasn’t planning on buying a Nissan Leaf. I was only vaguely aware it was an option. We had been contemplating a fully electric car for a while, but were torn between a smaller vehicle and a larger one with a significant towing capacity. It was a toss-up between a Tesla Model Y as the larger option or something else as the smaller option, but we didn’t know what the something else would be. We stumbled into the local Nissan dealer while out window-shopping for cars recently, and they showed us three used Nissan Leafs they had in stock. After many questions with the dealer and a test drive, we bought the 2020 Nissan Leaf Tekna 40 kWh, subject to financing. I spent the next few days researching all I could about the car and organising financing and insurance. A week after the initial test drive, we drove the shiny new toy off the lot and took it home. This is our first fully electric vehicle. I previously had a non-plugin hybrid, so I was familiar with regenerative braking. However, driving a fully electric car is a different experience, so there would be a learning curve. The first and most apparent difference in the driving experience is the buttery smooth transition between accelerating and decelerating and the equally jolt-free transition from stationary to moving and from moving to stationary. Pulling up to a traffic light or otherwise coming to a complete stop is smooth, with no engine vibration, no jolt from a change in gears, etc. It’s an absolute joy to drive. The Nissan Leaf has an ePedal feature. This feature must be manually engaged when you start the car using a pull switch in the centre console near the gear stick. When engaged, the car maximises regenerative braking. Usually, when you press a car’s brake pedal, the car’s forward momentum is arrested as brake pads heat up through friction. All the car’s forward momentum energy is transferred to the brake pads' heating, so it’s lost as heat energy. When you lift your foot from the accelerator while the ePedal feature is engaged, the Leaf’s motor instantly becomes a generator. This happens each time the car slows down while driving, which can be quite often if you are in the city or the journey is primarily stop and go. All the car’s forward momentum is captured as energy used to charge the battery for as long as you’re braking. The transition from motor (using energy from the battery) to generator (putting energy into the battery) is instant and seamless. The more stop and go and braking (lifting your foot from the accelerator), the more energy is reclaimed and put back into the battery. Where the difference in driving experience is noticeable between the Leaf and a regular ICE (Internal Combustion Engine) car, is that the braking effect from just lifting your foot off the accelerator is considerably more acute – especially when ePedal is engaged. In other words, the car slows down much faster than you might otherwise expect. It takes a bit of getting used to. I love the ePedal, but my wife doesn’t. I do have to remember to engage the ePedal feature each time. Sometimes I forget, and then engage it after I’ve started moving the car, such as reversing out of the garage. The car then almost immediately comes to a complete stop due to the braking effect, so I’m still getting used to this. Range anxiety, or the fear of running out of battery charge at inconvenient times, is a genuine concern. Although the fear is real, we’ve not encountered any actual issues in practice. The car has three charging options, each associated with one of two different charging connectors under the small flap in front of the bonnet. When unlatched, either by pressing the button on the key fob or the button on a panel to the left of the steering wheel, the flap can be raised to reveal the two charging ports. The one on the left is the CHAdeMO charging port for fast charging (up to 50 kW). When at a fast charging station, you connect the cable physically and permanently attached to the charge pole into this slot. The charging port on the right side is for AC charging. Two cables come with the car for use with this slower AC charging port. One has a regular household plug on the end, which you use to plug the car in at home. That will give you a trickle charge (2.3 kW) which is relatively slow and typically requires the car to be plugged in overnight to charge the battery fully from near empty. The other is for charging faster at paid locations while out and about (6.6 kW). It’s slower than the CHAdeMO fast charger but fast enough to give you a decent charge after a couple of hours, such as while out shopping or at a restaurant. The CHAdeMO charger could take me from 15% to 80% in about half an hour. While researching the car, before I had paid for it, I learned that getting a battery SOH (State Of Health) report was prudent. Fortunately, the Nissan dealer accommodated this request and provided me with the report. In my case, the report showed the battery was still at 100% health. If the battery health deteriorates below a certain threshold after a certain period, the warranty kicks in and you can have the battery replaced under the warranty. As my Leaf is only 5 years old and came with just 18,500 KM, I did not expect any significant degradation. Using a dongle and a smartphone app called LeafSpy, you can extract detailed telemetry from the car, which provides much more in-depth insights into the vehicle’s usage, battery charging history, etc. I have yet to dive into that. The two charging cables that come with the car are heavy duty, and not the easiest to fold away tidily into the pocket on the inside of the boot. Life with a fully electric car now involves the logistics of managing these cables, taking them out and wrapping them away again after each charge session, etc. We’ve left the AC charger with the household plug permanently plugged in to a socket in the garage, so it’s always conveniently placed to plug in when the car is in the garage. However, it only just reaches. The cable is 5m long. The car itself is 4.5m long. Using extension cords is ill advised for various reasons, so having a plug socket adjacent to where the car is parked while charging is a consideration. You can find out how much charge the battery has at any point from the dashboard while the car is turned on, but there is also a Nissan smartphone app called NissanConnect EV, which you can use to access that information remotely. The car periodically communicates charging telemetry with Nissan’s computing cloud. The app then reads that data from the cloud to provide you updates. We’ve found this slow and the app somewhat buggy and limited. There’s another app called My Leaf. That’s marginally better but still quite slow to refresh and display updated information. With both apps, the information is never immediately at your fingertips – there’s always an annoying delay getting the refreshed data. Our experience with charging while out and about has been a little hit and miss. Our local McDonald’s has a charging pole from Vattenfall. There are two bays and three charging cable types. I’ve attempted to use it twice. Both times I’ve been able to park and hook up, but one time there was a message on the screen indicating there was no power available. I called the number listed and spoke to a real person, but they said they could do nothing since it was outside of regular office hours. The other time it worked perfectly, and I charged from 15% to 80% by the time I finished my meal. Fortunately, my employer provides free charging for electric vehicles. I’ve been able to charge my vehicle to 100% each time I’ve parked at the office, even when I only worked for a half-day. There are dozens of charging networks around the country and Europe. This means you might individually need to subscribe to each network to access their charging locations, which can be quite a hassle. I decided to take out a charge subscription with the ANWB, which affords me access to a wide range of chargers around the country and Europe. Although this doesn’t grant me access to every charge location, it covers a very wide range, and their app helps me identify locations, how many bays are available, what charge connection types are supported, how much it costs to charge there, etc. Being a relatively new car, at just 5 years old, it’s in very good condition. There are no dings or dents and it looks and feels as new. That said, we did have the red airbag warning light come on after a few days. The car is now booked in for a warranty repair of whatever that problem is. Otherwise, we can find no issues with the car. The car feels less spacious inside than other cars we’ve owned (our Citroen Picasso and Renault Megane were both larger vehicles on the inside). Somehow, I feel a little more enclosed in the Leaf. There is less space in the front seats than I would like. I’ve taken to placing a small towel between my right leg and the center console, as my right leg rests against the center console’s hard plastic otherwise, and it can feel a little uncomfortable after a while. After starting the car, I plug in my iPhone to use Apple’s Car Play in-car system. There’s nothing wrong with Nissan’s own in-car system, which seems nicely laid out and easy to use. I’ve just become accustomed to using Car Play in other vehicles and like it. My only gripe is that it can take up to thirty seconds after switching on and plugging the USB cable into the iPhone before the Car Play interface loads and starts. That might not sound like much but that’s about 25 seconds after I wanted to drive away already, and the delay this causes is often inconvenient. I don’t want to have to operate the touchscreen after I’ve started moving, for obvious reasons. One of the Leaf Tekna's really cool features is its 360-degree camera vision. When the camera is engaged (automatically while in reverse or otherwise when pressing a button), the views from the various cameras are stitched together to depict a top-down view of the car so that you can see all around it. This ensures you don’t bump into anything when manoeuvring the car around tight spaces, and it gives you more peace of mind and confidence while reversing. The Leaf's primary fast-charging port is the CHAdeMO port. However, this standard is outgoing and being replaced by the CCS (Combined Charging System) standard. As the CCS standard slowly takes over, fewer fast chargers will have CHAdeMO. Eventually, it will be necessary to get an adapter. Currently, there are a few adapters on the market, but it is early days and they are expensive, ranging anywhere from €750 to €1100. Having an adapter will open up a lot more charging options for the Leaf, but I expect the prices to come down over time as more adapters become available and economies of scale kick in. Other nice features of the Leaf are the adaptive cruise control and lane assist. Adaptive cruise control means you can set a speed and the car will automatically adjust up and down (without going over) as required depending on whether traffic is ahead of you. If traffic in front slows down, so will the Leaf. When the traffic ahead speeds up, so will the Leaf. The lane assist will keep the Leaf in lane even during light turns. Technically, you can take your hands off the wheel, and the car will still steer itself. There are limitations. It doesn’t work for anything other than a slight bend in the road, and the system will warn you if it detects you’ve let go of the steering wheel for over a few seconds. While engaged, the cruise control warns you if you get too close to, or go over, the white road line markings. It grabs your attention with audible and physical alerts. You hear what sounds like a car horn and the steering wheel vibrates simultaneously. Nissan got this just right. Together, these warning signals grab your attention but are not so shocking as to scare the wits out of you. We have noticed that the indicated range at the start of any journey is much more optimistic than what we get in practice. When leaving my office with 100% battery charge, the car indicates a range of 255 KM. After driving 40 KM to my home, the range is indicated to be around 190 KM. Despite only driving 40 KM, the indicated range reduced by as much as 65 KM. Much of my drive home is on the motorway, where there is limited scope for capturing regenerative braking energy, but it still feels like we’re getting less than what’s promised – especially on longer trips. There is a touchscreen LCD display, but I find the resolution to be average at best. It could benefit from having a better resolution, not to mention a slightly higher placement on the dash, so we’re not having to look down at it so much. Even though the Tekna is the more premium version of the Leaf, it doesn’t have electrically operated seat adjustments for the passenger and driver seats. I really miss that. It does have a very good sound system, which we really like. That said, the Bose base unit in the boot does seem to take up some boot space. Also a missing feature is an automatic boot operation. My wife misses that feature also. Overall, we’re very happy with our 5-year-old 2020 Nissan Leaf Tekna 40 kWh. The positives outweigh the negatives by quite some margin. The car is delightful to drive. We’re thrilled with the purchase and have made a relatively seamless transition to fully electric driving.

It should be something like selecting the individual seat position and then depressing the position number 1 or 2 button (depending on who is driving at the time) for a short period of time

Hi....welcome to the Club I'm not entirely sure if there is a 'bolt on' to add an extra gear or how you could go about adapting anything to fit. However, you may be able to play with the gear ratios in the final drive or even the rolling diameter of the wheels/tyres to affect the mph to revs range

Hi All Just introducing myself. I have owned my 2005 350Z Roadster for circa 10 years now and enjoyed it. My other automotive hobby being a Megapin single seater circuit race car which I am rebuilding as it has been garaged by the previous owner for several years. I am replacing the engine and all the fibreglass parts with carbon fibre which has taken me circa 3-4 years to perfect. So I now offer carbon fibre parts like aero boot wings etc My 350Z has lots of parts during my ownership including a Jap speed K4 cat back exhaust, Mohair soft top, lots of bracing and I am about to replace the throttle body for the 75mm offering, I just need to machine the fitting plate and make a 75mm carbon fibre inlet pipe. In my early days of ownership like lots of other owners experienced the knock from the front suspension so replaced the shocks & springs then found out it was the Barings in the banana arm Dhoh. Thats reminds me I still have the original shocks and springs lol Anyway I hope to be posting some of my experiences with the car and I'm happy to help anyone thats encounters anything I have experience with. Cheers Chris

Hello there! I've got myself a Red 2000 Nissan Micra 1.0 GX Automatic yesterday and I love it! I used to see the (pre 2004 Micras) in Felixstowe all the time when I lived there years back and now I finally have one. Does the owners club have a Classic Micra Rally (or get together type thing) in the UK or did I dream that.... (nice dream if I did!)

Hi...welcome to the Club Can't go too wrong with a Micra. Simple engineering and go on for years Good to have you onboard!

Thanks for the welcome message. As to the models, I have always found them a better value proposition than the other Japanese makes, and that goes double for European cars. I have had other makes (briefly). Rover SD1 V8, Humber Imperial, Holden Commodores (my wife has had a series of wagons, up to her current 14 model SV6 wagon), and even an Aston Martin DB6 Vantage (for a couple of years). Thanks again, Phil

Hi folks Could anyone please tell me where we fill up the transmission fluid. Plus where to buy a van manual, has anyone converted this type of Nissan into a motor home? Any issues with rust around the roof line? And whats a good fix? Cheers Oliver

Newbie here, checking in with a problem, but I'll put that in the right area. I picked up an Orange 2008 Qashqai early December 2023 as an emergency car. It's a 1.5 manual with 164,000 miles on the clock It's got a few problems, but it's getting me around 😁

Hello everyone. My name is Marius, I am 23 years old and i live in Romania. This is my Qashqai

Picking up 2012 highway star Serena in a couple of weeks. Excited.

Samco are a company that specialise in Silicon hoses so they can provide different diameters and lengths and you can also get couplings and adapters to make up your own hoses

Hi. We have a Nissan Serena Highway Star. Registered here 2009. We got hit while parked outside by unknown driver. Our right side wing mirror was damaged and a scrape down the side. Insurance company couldn't find any repair station that could replace the mirror and nor can we. They paid us a minimal sum to repair it ourselves. Any suggestions or anyone local in Essex breaking one? Sue and Rob.

Just come across a video suggesting that the neutral position switch on the gearbox may also have gone. Diagnosis is to turn on the Engine heater switch then engage a gear. Revs should return to normal idle if the switch is operating. My car does not return to idle. Stays revved up and I canove forward without there being any change Could this contribute to the error lights I'm facing?

You can pop to Halfords and get some universal coolant (pre-mixed to the correct quantity) and top up the tank However, there should be a min-max markings on the tank and should be topped to just below max when the engine is cold

I swapped the cluster this weekend. Also took the opportunity to replace the crappy OEM-radio with a Bluetooth one. Used a 1-din dashkit for that, looks quite alright actually. Nothing needs to be done to enable the replacement cluster. It’s plug and play. The mileage is stored in the cluster, so make sure you install one with slightly higher mileage than what you have as to not get into any odometer issues during the next MOT. I swapped my faulty 179k cluster with disabled check engine light for a unmolested one with 185k on it. Paid 40 bucks for it at a local junk yard. Those extra 6k in mileage won’t hurt the (non-existent) resale value anyway.

I managed to contact a electrical specialist for this Thursday so will update on the outcome. I even looked into 'All Data' but they want yearly subscription fee which i certainly won't utilise all the time. It would be good to see get some feedback from any of the forum members that have this subscription and does it cover the Infiniti diesel Euro models ? Not everyones style but this is it.

hi I a;ready bought 2 adapters - for radio and for TV but where to install them? no idea where tv and radio amplifier are ..8-) atm has changed some things.. on the bonnet is the "proper" emblem - not lying but standing- and I should finish - maybe today adding a SECOND sound system with modern radio and another set of speakers. Because inside is a very complicated Bosse system and no1 in Bristol wanted to work with my Nissan I decided to put inside the second system..So I will have all the modern tools like Bloototh, wi-fi and of course Uk radio with normal frequency. I will post some pictures when I finish it completely and here are the pictures

Engine fault light and lane departure light apparently due to loose battery connection. Driver’s side mirror when reversing still not fixed still points upwards instead of down.

Hi all thought I’d drop in before placing my first post in the hope you can help

Thank you for the welcome Trevor and thanks for the links will have a look now.

Hi Tim....welcome to the Club I really like the Murano, think they should have stuck with that shape for other model designs Feel free to jump in answering any questions (especially about Nissan parts) if you would like to? Good to have you onboard!

Hi everyone, I'm Gavrilo, a new member. ☺️ I want to present you my new car Nissan Qashqai 2018 Tekna+ Bose. Mileage: 151,857km Cubic capacity: 1598 cm3 Engine power: 96/131 (kW/HP) You can watch a Cinematic video of my car: You can watch the video presentation of my car:

Have now bought a Qashqai e-power which is great but can anyone tell me why the power lever when pushed forward mades the car go backwards and when pushed back the car goes forward? I am only a simple sailor ( retired Marine Engineer) but it has me baffled..... Davidpincombe

Hi I have a 71 plate leaf I have had my sounder switch on/off sticking in I give it a bit WD40 and had know probs since

Hi all, I've been having some throttle response problems (flat spot), juddering issues at certain revs and poorer fuel economy on my Micra K12 2003 1.2 petrol. I tried to find a guide online that would help me remove and clean the throttle body but I couldn't find anywhere that could show me the location of the throttle body or even how to remove it. So I decided to find the throttle body myself and undertake the removal and cleaning in the hope of creating a guide for other people who would like to know how to do it. I took some nice photos as I progressed which I could use in a guide. I have put together a little guide which you can find detailed below and also a copy on my website which should help anyone wanting to remove and clean the throttle body on their 1.2 petrol K12. The guide is detailed below in this topic. Alternatively you can also access the guide at: http://www.limecove.co.uk/nissanmicrak12/nissan-micra-k12-throttle-body-removal-clean.html Hopefully it'll be useful. Thanks, Chris

Well this is its " I've saved it from the previous owner" look lol. But there are a few bits needed to get it how I want it

Ok will do

Thanks for your advice Trevor. ill take a look.

Hi everyone, greetings from Denmark and thanks for membership. I´m here for tips and tricks, hope I can get some and give some. My car is a Micra K13 facelift

Hi, what codes showed up when you had it checked? I’m sure you can’t just purchase the regulator as it is inbuilt into the fuel pump on the 1.5 k9k engine so you would have to fork out for the lot

Hi All, I naively bought a 1.6 16 plate Tekna Juke Diesel (55k Mileage) May of last year for what I thought I would need to commute to work, however working from home meant I did not need to do that. I live in the city and don't travel very often and so I've had problems with needing a new DPF , and now a clogged EGR valve and sensor, requiring a new one. Which has cost me alot of money i'd rather not spend if possible to avoid. This was my first proper car so was unaware that short distance/city driving is not ideal for a Diesel and the build up is likely my start/stop driving and short distance journeys. I've read that taking it out on the motorway every now and then is required to get it heated up and clear the carbon or whatever out from there, but can't find a rough estimate of time frame so was looking for some advice on that. TLDR: How often would you recommend taking it out to get it to high rev/high speed/high heat to keep the DPF and EGR clean? Weekly? Fortnightly? Monthly? Please also feel free to correct me if what i've read is inaccurate. Thanks

Hi just thought I’d introduce myself, I’m Steve from the north east of England. I have recently pruchased a Nissan sunny coupe 1.6 GSX 1990. I work at Nissan as well as a panel repairer. nice to meet you all 😊

Here is a procedure I found and seem to recall using the same technique before on a T31 You must use ORIGINAL KEY to start procedure 1. Sit in car lock all doors with power “switch lock on driver side door” 2. Using ORIGINAL key insert and remove key till doors UNLOCK within 8 seconds, usually insert and remove six times 3. Turn ORIGINAL key in ignition to ACC position (Do not start engine) 4. Lock all doors with “power door lock switch on Driver side door” 5. Press lock or unlock on NEW key this will match them up, if you have another key press lock or unlock as well, it will be programmed all keys to the same code. To exit program mode, turn the ignition OFF. UNLOCK the door using the driver side switch. Test fobs

Hi....welcome to the Club Two things come to mind... 1. Crankshaft Sensor which looks for rotation of the crankshaft which will signal the Engine Management System (EMS) and give the command to fuel and spark dependent on engine speed. If this is faulty (usually when hot and the resistance changes) then this can cut the engine and start when cooled down. 2. Throttle Body adaptation which is adjustable using a scan tool. A lot of times this comes down to carbon build up and benefits from cleaning which gives a constant smooth idle speed A scan of the EMS should give stored fault codes which lead to a more precise diagnosis Let us know how you get on with it all

Hi, not had chance to really look yet, what with work and crappy weather, will post when I do, thanks m8

Hi guys I'm new to the group hoping to buy a 2018 nissan micra 1.5dci with 18k on the clock... im abit unsure if I should buy it as I only seem to find negative reviews. I was wondering if anyone had any positive experiences with the micra. How reliable are they? What are the common faults etc... Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks Luke