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I had the same problem radio cutting off there is a fee upgrade from nissan now work perfectly it's a common problem

Hello, I am joining this forum with hopes to be able to supply you guys with some hard to come by parts for your beloved Nissans, as the title states we are the second oldest Nissan dealer in the uk and we are looking to move some of our older parts that have been stored away for years. I will be doing a follow up post with our parts list which should have thousands of items for you guys to sift through at your leisure, I just wanted to test the waters to see how helpful this would be for you guys, any responses or comments appreciated. Kind regards, Oscar

Hi all! Im thinking of getting a Pathfinder in the next month or two. Wanted something bigger for going fishing/camping and always loved the look of the Pathfinder. Especially the older shape (07/08 models). Has anyone got a rot free one with upgraded timing chain they are thinking of parting with? Thanks in advance 🤘🏻🙂 Harry

Hi everyone Just joined, so saying hi from sunny Brighton. I have recently purchased a Nissan Qashqai (2010) model and loving it so far jay316

I purchased a new X Trail 1.5 VC-T TEKNA e4orce on 29th July 2024 within 6 months after car had not been driven for a week battery was flat. Battery changed by garage this has happened 3 times. Seems static electricity is draining battery so an earth strap has been installed by garage. Seems to have done the trick but is this common on new hybrid cars? Garage not getting much info from Nissan.

Hi everyone, I am Sid and I own a 1993 K reg 1.6 Sunny SR. Looking for a few bits and bobs and hopefully good advise. Thanks All.

thanks admin. I'll take some pics, and post later. Any views on the 1.2 engines?

Hello I am looking for a Nissan SD25 Diesil engine which is out of a Nissan 20 Forklift. I am told the same engine was used in Nissan Cabstar and Nissan Bluebird vehicles in the 1980s. Our currant engine has a hole in the block so I am looking for a good block or a complete engine. Many thanks Colin

My thoughts exactly. I’m thinking that the 05-12 Pathfinder LE’s, when in 2WD, do not have the front transfer case engaged at all. There’s no hub lock or unlock on these. Unless selecting 4WD is what you’re referring to by manually locking the hubs. AWD is a confusing on this vehicle. I don’t think that the hubs are technically locked, but they’re obviously engaged, and the drive is put to the front by “The System” when it senses “Slip” I guess. And if your front tires are mismatched, it might sense slip continuously. I guess that I could put the truck up on the lift, start it and engage “Drive”(2WD), and just see what’s spinning. I would assume that the forward drive shaft always spins, but that the transfer case is not engaged. Another way would probably be to put on the new front tire on the front paired with the used front tire and go drive. If it’s a problem, the “VDC” and “Slip” lights would probably come on.

Hi Sappo, I took delivery of my Juke Hybrid in December, so now have three months experience with it. My primary reason for changing was the Juke's higher ride - I previously had three Toyota Hybrids (Auris and Corolla) and was starting to struggle getting in and out due to a back problem. To that end the Juke has been a 100% improvement. However, for my money the Toyota Hybrid system is far superior. I could easily exceed 60mpg with the Toyotas without making any adjustments. Best I have achieved so far with the Juke is 52 - that is using Eco Drive and e-pedal, both of which have to be activated every time I start up. I have no mechanical expertise but I cannot understand why the Juke revs so high when travelling between 28-31, which for most of us is the speed we drive at around town. That said, I find the car has a very solid feel (maybe a more "robust" ride than the Toyota) and I feel safe in it. Psalmist

Howdy all.. thanks for the add..

Hi all, my first post. My juke 1.6 has a faulty fuel pressure regulator. Have been on the hunt for a replacement pump but prices are absolutely crazy for genuine and I'm struggling to find a none genuine that matches the part number. My part number is 1663000q0b. Are any of these pumps cross operable between models. I'm guessing looking at them they will physically fit but I'm presuming there is a difference in pressure etc? Thanks Tim

The gravity sensor is built into the controller box on the back of the abs pump

Hi I did managed to remove that, however after i paint them i cannot put them back due to yellow clip is loose in the rail and i cannot remove it. Please help

Cheers everyone will give it a go when I'm on holiday in 3 weeks for 3 weeks. Scot

Have a look at the offering from AutoCom as I think this may cover the ABS

Hi Hoping someone can help with problem I am having with my QX. Car starts but tickover not smooth. As soon as you touch accelerator pedal it dies. Eventually after numerous attempts it will rev up but will not rev past 2000rpm. just pops and bangs which obviously is not good. If you engage drive (4 speed auto with overdrive) it stalls. Need to hold revs at around 1300 -1400rpm to get it to pullaway but of course it does so with a jerk. Once on the go gearbox changes are often hesitent along with its reluctance to rev. Have serviced the car along with new plugs. Even changed transmission oil. No Engine management warning lights on dash. No warning lights of any kind. Car has covered just under 130,000 miles and never had any problems like this before. Has always started 1st time and run smooth as clockwork. Any ideas/suggestions as to cause and cure would be gratefully appreciated. Many thanks Mike

Hi - just bought my first Nissan ... a 2008 1.6 ltr Micra K12 cc Sport convertible in silver. 3 previous owners and 116k on the clock... it was a cat n insurance write off due to light damage to boot lid and rear bumper! It runs excellently, even the intelligent key works (well most of the time - lol!) ... and the roof works perfectly, so looking forward to the summer months! A few pics the 'Micra Machine' attached. Cheers Steve!

Newbie here, checking in with a problem, but I'll put that in the right area. I picked up an Orange 2008 Qashqai early December 2023 as an emergency car. It's a 1.5 manual with 164,000 miles on the clock It's got a few problems, but it's getting me around 😁

It could be battery condition if it is that old so worth starting with a test and replace if necessary Also worth checking all earth leads from the battery onto the engine and transmission back to the chassis. If any of these are corroded or broken that could cause the problem

Hi Im in the Southend on sea area and sadly selling my Nissan Serena cvt. 2004. 174,854 miles, 1990cc automatic 7 seat mini van. This van is well used, scrapes on bumpers tatty wheel covers some paint missing from the side mirrors. Interior is stil in a reasonable condition. Main issues that need attention is the right hand lower suspension arm needs replacing and the automatic side door motor also needs replacing ( wasn’t working when I bought it) tires are brand new and has mot till October. Condition apart from suspension arm is how I purchased it. Engine runs lovely still. Selling as no longer need a big car. £1200 ono

That definitely sounds like a poor earth somewhere in the engine bay area.....check the earth lead from the battery and any that may be attached to the engine and body Also on the offchance, it may be something simple like a bulb.....check the rear indicator and tail lamp bulbs are the correct type as sometimes if incorrect they can backfeed current through the electrical system and create faults like you describe

I am a newbie here and have a '85 300ZX (see pic) that I am trying to find maintenance for in San Antonio,TX. I would like to find a reliable maintenance shop for regular support as well as when it needs more in-depth attention. Does anyone have a suggestion or two? Thanks.

Hi Trevor, thanks for the info. I'm going to be replacing the transfer box sensors shortly so I'll take a look whilst I'm under there. Im not 100% sure what I'm doing but trying hard to get the car operational asap. I've tried everything I can think of so far and still no dice. I appreciate the thinking and will let you know how I get on

Hi thanks for your reply I really thought I'd cracked it I realised that the interior light wasn't coming on when the rear passenger door was open nor did it show up as open on the dashboard so I unscrewed the switch and found the wire was broken down at the bottom near the seat anywayni joined the wire back up the interior light works as it should now and it also shows up as open on the dashboard but the lights are still flashing

I would be worried if you didn't hear it in the future 🙂 As long as it still starts and doesn't slow down which could suggest it is starting to bind on the shaft then it should be fine Alternatively, a new starter isn't that much and easy to fit https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=131090&_nkw=2015+k13+micra+starter+motor&selvel=Cars+Year%3A2015%2CCar+Make%3ANissan%2CModel%3AMicra%2CVariant%3APetrol%20Hatch%2CCars+Type%3A1.2%2CBodyStyle%3AFWD%20IV%20K13K%2CMK13K_%2CPlat_Gen%3AMK%20IV%2CEngine%3A1198cc%2056KW%2076HP%20HR12DE&selcontext=productType%3ACAR_AND_TRUCK%2CpartType%3APARTS%2CqueryType%3ABY_VEHICLE&_sop=15&rt=nc&LH_ItemCondition=3

Hi keithtoon ....welcome to the Club There are aftermarket companies on the internet selling SatNav update discs but beware, some work and some don't ! They are not too expensive and worth a try as cheaper than main dealer

Whats the service history like? If its been serviced by Nissan then I'd put a call into them, see if they can help out in a 'goodwill' gesture sort of way - because that certainly shouldn't be happening on a car of that age. Or take it up with the dealer that sold it?

Looking for a nissan 100 nx to purchase if anyone on here knows of one. Thanks

Hi Tim....welcome to the Club I really like the Murano, think they should have stuck with that shape for other model designs Feel free to jump in answering any questions (especially about Nissan parts) if you would like to? Good to have you onboard!

It was the glow plug relay bought another one and everything seems fine now thanks

Hi Trevor, thanks for this. Ended up buying the car yesterday, 2.0L Qashqai+2 Acenta. Drives real smooth, lovely and quiet, decent power, overall, very happy with it. One thing my wife has ordered is a new gear know as the other has worn - are these easy to replace? Gear knobs of old simply screwed off, but this has the lift handle for reverse, and I'm wondering how much trouble this may cause?

I would recommend getting something like a silicon hose which would be stronger and cheap to buy by the length Try Demon Tweeks as they have a good range of hoses

Hi all Recently bought a Murano 2.5 petrol Z51 Engine 2009. Looking forward to picking some brains here and sharing my knowledge too. I live in Auckland and have bought a Japanese import, very common here. It's a great car but am sure I'll have some questions soon! Cheers Nick

Hi there did you get to the bottom of this problem as i have the same thing

Hi Luke.....welcome to the Club I would say you are correct that it is the antenna and as far as I am aware it would not need coding to the vehicle as it does not generate or hold the immobilise code (the ECU would have that information) it simply amplifies the signal from the immobiliser chip in the key fob

Hi guys new here and just a show of my modified 350z sparky IMG_1606.MOV

Thank You. I have used Eurocarparts a few times in the past but they aren't as cheap as they used to be even with their constant discounts. Case in point, I recently needed an Indicator Bulb for my Astra Estate, its not a Normal bulb it's fitted in a holder you buy as part of it. It's a Bosch Bulb and Eurocarparts wanted £32, I found the same Bosch Bulb online for half the price. I do try to use Quality Branded Parts For Servicing and a Good Quality Oil for Oil Changes. Buy cheap and pay twice unfortunately

You should ideally change both at same time given they’re both the same age and done the same mileage.

Hi, what codes showed up when you had it checked? I’m sure you can’t just purchase the regulator as it is inbuilt into the fuel pump on the 1.5 k9k engine so you would have to fork out for the lot

I get this exact issue with my 2016 Juke, I connect to it through bluetooth and use spotify and it will just randomly pause for 10 seconds every now and again. I made sure to turn off traffic announcements, which helped a bit, but it still happens sometimes. Let me know if the re-calibration helps, i'll have to get it done myself!

I have purchased a 1991 Nissan Vanette. I just wondered if there were any other owners?

I have been told that the new models have a 1.3 as opposed to ours being 1.2 - apparently it makes quite a difference.

Here is a procedure I found and seem to recall using the same technique before on a T31 You must use ORIGINAL KEY to start procedure 1. Sit in car lock all doors with power “switch lock on driver side door” 2. Using ORIGINAL key insert and remove key till doors UNLOCK within 8 seconds, usually insert and remove six times 3. Turn ORIGINAL key in ignition to ACC position (Do not start engine) 4. Lock all doors with “power door lock switch on Driver side door” 5. Press lock or unlock on NEW key this will match them up, if you have another key press lock or unlock as well, it will be programmed all keys to the same code. To exit program mode, turn the ignition OFF. UNLOCK the door using the driver side switch. Test fobs

Think it shows the fitting points in the manual

I've just got off the phone to Nissan (Colebrook way, Andover) they've advised me to take it back to the garage that fit the head gasket and check that they've plugged the sensor in properly. I've basically got to start at the beginning and work out the problem. On a positive note the sensor light stayed off for the mot and passed today 🙌 booked in next Friday (once I'm out of isolation). Fingers crossed its something so simple 🤞

Will be trying a new suction control valve, will let you know if it works

Sadly not! We had to pay the cost of replacement Clutch of £1800 plus an AA report of £200. The AA sent ACE (Automotive Consulting Engineers Ltd) to carry out the inspection which concluded that the Clutch had over heated which caused the failure. No suggestion as to cause other than abuse and referred to Towing in the report which did not mention that there is not a Tow Bar on the car! The report appeared to me to have a large element of "cut and paste" about it. I tried to contact ACE for more details of the inspection but they did not respond I contacted Nissan and asked if they could Inspect the components and the Dual Mass Fly Wheel, they declined and suggested I look on the Internet to find someone to inspect it but could not suggest anyone. The Nissan "Adviser" declined to discuss the matter any further with me and refused to put through to a Manager. We reject the suggestion that we "ride" the clutch as there is adequate spec by the clutch pedal to rest the foot and we have suddenly become bad drivers. I took legal advise and my Solicitor advised that we could become involved in a costly dispute. We are left with a car that my wife is reluctant to drive as she has lost faith in it. We ask ourselves three questions. Would we buy another Nissan, would we recommend a friend to buy a Nissan and are we satisfied with Nissan's Customer Care? NO, NO, ABSOLUTELY NOT.

Nissan Micra K12 Throttle Body Removal and Clean Welcome to this guide on how to remove and clean the throttle body on a Nissan Micra K12. This procedure was done on a 1.2 2003 petrol model. As I couldn't find a good tutorial on this process I thought I would have a go myself and then put together this guide for other people. The process is actually relatively straight forward once you know how. I was experiencing juddering at certain points on the rev range and when the car was in a certain gear, MPG had decreased plus some hunting when the car was idle. So I decided that I would clean the throttle body to see if that would help. I actually didn't know exactly where the throttle body was located on this model. It's actually located under the air intake box/top manifolds which are shown below. It's actually located inside and under the top of the plastic manifold housing. Once you have removed the throttle body you will realise that it's actually connected to one of the electrical connections on the top of the housing that you will need to disconnect as part of this process. Throttle body location This is where the throttle body is location on a 2003 1.2 petrol Nissan Micra K12. Tools required This is a list of tools and other items required to get to the throttle body, remove it from the housing and then clean it: Pliers or grips 10 mm socket Ratchet Toothbrush or cotton buds and an old but clean cloth A good carb/throttle body cleaner The process So here are the steps. Step 1 - Remove the air intake and air filter box Remove the air intake pipe (highlighted by the red arrow) by removing the plastic lugs that hold it to the front of the engine bay and then remove the other end from the air filter housing on the right. I had to slightly twist mine and then gave it a hard pull to detach it. Then remove the air filter housing from the manifold housing. Do this by unclipping the metal retaining clips (highlighted in blue in the image below) located on the front and the right side of the housing. There are only two clips that hold this in place. They simply unclip upwards and one remains connected to the top housing and the other remains connected to the air filter box. Once you have unclipped the air filter housing the front of it may drop away from you. It should not fall off completely as the back is held in place by the box being slid into holders in the back of the top housing. To remove the air filter box simply push the front down and when it's at a certain point pull the air filter housing towards you. This will pull it out of the rear mounts. Try to look at the rears mounts when you do this so that you can be sure you pushed it down enough to be able to pull it forward without snapping the plastic mounts on the back of the top housing. You should see this when the air filter housing has been dropped away from the top housing. The air filter itself may have stuck to the underside of the top housing like mine did so just pull it off and place to one side. I would suggest replacing it with a new filter whilst you are doing this as you will have to put it back in when you reassemble. Now just slide the air filter housing out of the engine bay so that you can continue. You will see this. Step 2 - Disconnect Electrical Connectors Disconnect the three electrical connectors as highlighted in red. The one to the left of the top housing is the actual throttle body connector. Once the one in the middle of the top housing is unplugged, make sure you gentle pull it out of the recess that the rest of the cable lies within and gently push it to one side out of the way. Do not just pull these connectors as they are made from plastic and will snap. They all have a small tab which needs to be depressed at the same time as gently pulling them. Do not pull them too hard as they do not need it. They will disconnect very easily if the tab is pressed whilst pulling them. Step 3 - Disconnect Breather Pipes/Hoses Disconnect the two breather hoses/pipes as highlighted in red. You will need to use a pair of pliers to release the retaining clips that hold the end of the pipes tightly sealed in place. Just squeeze the release arms on the retaining clips with the pliers and slide the retaining clips along the pipes until they are free of the housing connector. Now just gentle pull the hoses/pipes off the housing connectors. Again, you do not need to pull these hard. They should just slide off with a light pressure. Remove the centre hose from the recess in the top housing and push it out of the way. You should now see something like the image below. All electrical connectors have been disconnected and the hoses disconnected. I took this picture before I had moved the centre hose out of the way so you shouldn't have this in place at this stage. Next remove the breather hose mount, shown below, from the top housing. If you don't remove this you will not be able to remove the top housing completely if you leave the rear hose attached. Alternatively, you could leave it bolted on and just remove the other hose from it and then remove the top housing with the mount attached. I just unbolted it and pushed it out of the way so I didn't damage it. Once you've removed the mount then it should look like the image below. Just move it gently out of the way so that it doesn't interfere when you remove the top housing. Step 4 - Remove Top Housing You can now remove the top housing by simply removing the bolts highlighted in red in the below images. They are all 10 mm. Remove the three front bolts. Remove the two bolts on the left rear of the housing. Remove the two bolts on the right rear of the housing. Once the seven bolts have been removed you can simply pull the top of the housing up towards you and it should separate from the bottom section of the housing. Warning: Do not pull this top section up too hard. You should be able to just pull it up with a little force. The top section is attached to plastic manifold inlet pipes toward the rear and they are pretty much held on by O rings. Try to pull the top section of the housing up towards you in a straight motion. Try not to bend it as you pull it up. It should come off fairly easily. Warning: This top section actually contains the throttle body itself so take care. Do not just drop it to one side as you may damage the throttle body that you are about to clean - if you are not replacing the throttle body itself of course. You should now see the image below once the top section is removed. Step 5 - Remove Throttle Body From Top Housing Once you've pulled off the top housing turn it over to see the location of the throttle body. Simply remove the three bolts that are highlighted in red in the image below. They are 10mm so just use the same socket you used to remove the top housing bolts. Once you have removed the three bolts you can now remove the whole throttle body. The throttle body is now only held in by the top of the electrical connector on the outside of the top housing. It's a bit tight so just pull the throttle body towards you whilst wiggling it slightly as the rubber seal is a little tight. Don't put too much force as you might snap the plastic top housing. You should now see the housing like this once the throttle body has been removed. Step 6 - Clean The Throttle Body To clean the throttle body I used a small headed toothbrush, some clean rag and a good carb / throttle body cleaner. Warning: Carefully follow the instructions on the carb cleaner. Do this work in a well ventilated area, preferably outside and wear a suitable breathing mask. Take extreme care not to inhale the fumes from this cleaner or the dirt that it removes from the throttle body. I used the following carb cleaner which is available from a well known parts store for about £8. This was the state of my throttle body when I got it out. It was really clogged up and clearly sticking. Simply attach the small pipe to the can of carb cleaner and then spray into and around the inside of the intake of the throttle body and all over the butterfly valve. Then just brush the whole of the inside of the intake (front and back) and butterfly valve with the toothbrush and/or rag. The dirt should come off quite easily as the carb cleaner is really effective. Keep doing this until the intake and butterfly valve are as clean as you can get them. Keep wiping off any residue with a good clean rag as well as you do this. After about 10 minutes of cleaning I had a nice clean throttle body as shown below. Yours should look pretty similar when complete. Step 7 - Refit Your Throttle Body And Reassemble Other Parts Warning: Before refitting your cleaned throttle body you should ensure that the throttle body is dry and does not contain any residue from the cleaning agent. I left my throttle body to completely dry for about an hour or so just to be extra cautious before proceeding with refitting. Refitting your throttle body and reassembly is just really this guide in reverse from step 5 back to step 1. Warning: Take care when reattaching the top of the housing to the bottom and the intake pipes as they have O rings present. Ensure that they are correctly aligned before pushing the top housing down into place. Be careful not to pinch or tear the O rings. If it's tight to refit over the O rings then either replace the O rings or simply apply a small smear of engine oil around the O rings which should help refit the top housing. Warning: Do not over tighten the bolts that hold the throttle body in place or the top housing. Warning: Once you have reassembled everything it is a good idea to just double check that all the breather hoses are reattached and secured in place and that all the electrical connectors are attached securely. You should now be able to start the car and test accordingly. If this process has been successful then you should have a smoother throttle response and possibly more accurate. Mine stopped juddering at certain revs and seemed so much more responsive. I am also now getting much better fuel economy.