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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/30/2021 in all areas

  1. Hmm, seems like someone had the issue before and a bodge was carried to rectify the issue (or at least attempt to rectify it). There is an issue with the timing chains and as far as I can see it was a recall from Nissan. It does suggest that it occurs on hard acceleration (e.g. from a slip-road) and if the chain is slack it can drift away from the timing point by a small fraction (much like a loose timing belt) which can then throw a code for cam/crank timing and result in what you are experiencing. I would personally replace the engine oil and look to see what has come out - e.g. metal particles and then replace it with the specified oil which may have not been supplied with previously. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/engine-oil-12094/nissan/pulsar/pulsar-hatchback-c13/107484-1-2-dig-t If you use a quality oil of the correct specifications (as listed in the link above) and see if that makes any difference to how it runs. If no real difference is noted then I would advise to get the timing chain replaced which will almost certainly make a difference if it is worn
  2. 2 points
    I use a smart screen with Android Auto. Then connect my phone via BlueTooth and use Waze map. Less expensive and live updates of accidents, traffic jams etc.
  3. I had the same problem radio cutting off there is a fee upgrade from nissan now work perfectly it's a common problem
  4. Hello, I am joining this forum with hopes to be able to supply you guys with some hard to come by parts for your beloved Nissans, as the title states we are the second oldest Nissan dealer in the uk and we are looking to move some of our older parts that have been stored away for years. I will be doing a follow up post with our parts list which should have thousands of items for you guys to sift through at your leisure, I just wanted to test the waters to see how helpful this would be for you guys, any responses or comments appreciated. Kind regards, Oscar
  5. Hi all! Im thinking of getting a Pathfinder in the next month or two. Wanted something bigger for going fishing/camping and always loved the look of the Pathfinder. Especially the older shape (07/08 models). Has anyone got a rot free one with upgraded timing chain they are thinking of parting with? Thanks in advance 🤘🏻🙂 Harry
  6. 1 point
    New to pathfinders. After doing some light modifications for a bit of off road use and was wondering what stealth winches people are using. Would like to keep the original bumper. Any guides about. Tia
  7. I would normally agree with you regarding the engine being run in but if a previous owner just took it to the shops once a week or crawled through traffic in urban areas the engine would not necessarily be run in correctly (many diesel engines with high mileage can be stripped down and still find the honing marks scored into the bores....suggesting that the engine has not been run in correctly). I have torn down engines with just 21k miles and found the bores to be completely worn but equally I have found engines with over 100k miles to still be as fresh as the day it was built. It all depends on how it has been driven. Another example is a BMW R1200GS motorbike I had for many years. When I bought it, it was consuming quite a lot of engine oil, I changed the grade but it didn't like it (just yet). The bike had only covered 24k miles but it was sluggish and didn't respond as it should. I rode the bike hard (as it should be ridden) with high revs in each gear and eventually it was a completely different bike. No longer did it consume oil but I could happily change the oil grade accordingly. The long and short of it is that it was not run in correctly and I managed to change that by riding it hard for a period of time. Most diesel engines are not revved hard enough to burn off carbon (which could be gumming up the rings into the piston and not sealing in the cylinder efficiently, blocked EGR, blocked DPF, etc. All they usually need is an 'Italian Tune-up' to keep it all clean. Moral of this lengthy reply is - if it is consuming oil between services then I would consider that my theory is correct. Also try a cylinder leak-down test which will show exactly which cylinder or valves have pressure leaking past them. Very easy test with visible and audible results
  8. hi Because I am very happy owner of Nissan Cima 2010 VIP model I imported another Nissan ..now classic 1994(late model from September) very rare with Automatic ACTSUS system. and here is a little clip with my Nissan. NEAR all works as it's looks .I need help with 2 things. Im pretty sure all 4 gas spheres( similar to Citroen with hydroactive suspension )dont have enough Nitrogen pressure and Im looking to buy 4 speheres after regeneration or refuel mine. And second problem Im trying to find Consult in my car and REALLy cant..I spoke 2 days with 2 different AI and they are giving me excluding answers. I found some of this car models DONT HAVE it.. AT ALL- I dont have any problem - nothing flash but I want to have possibility to diagnose my car if anything happend.Would be nice if some one of You have more experience with this BEAUTY and can help me. Here is How its look: here is small clip with my BEAUTY NISSAN
  9. Hey guys, not sure if this is the right place to post "for sale". Sorry about that. I'm selling my 1 owner Pathfinder SE. 70,125 miles. Engine and trans in perfect running condition. Does need a SAS and flex plate. I have all service/oil change receipts. Asking $4500 neg.
  10. i would say its a case for the ombudsmen and certainly run it past citizens advice to get some more guidance on pursuing a claim If unsuccesful then a secondhand engine (with the revised cooling system parts) may be the most financially advisable way forwards
  11. 1 point
    I had the 1 litre engine in my last Juke. Its turbocharged so there is no loss of power. I now have a 1.6 Hybrid which is more cost effective especially around urban areas.
  12. I owned a couple of Quashqais through 2010 - 2016 then switched to Toyota for hybrid drive. I went back to Nissan in December 2024 and purchased a Juke Hybrid. I'm happy with the high and safe-feeling drive of the car but a bit disenchanted with some features I find irritating. In particular the Nissan Connect Data Transmission screen which requires accept or decline every time I start up. Nobody seems to have found a way to disable this. Lots of audible warnings - though I sense most new cars have this now. Anyway, I look forward to putting a few miles on the clock this year. Happy to be here and I'll keep an eye out for useful tips.
  13. 1 point
    Hi Mike, I have a completely stock 350z for sale. Are you still on the search for a well maintained one? thanks, Fred.
  14. 1 point
    Hi Paul, thanks for reply. the files are mp3, so should all play. I am using a one of the newer sticks, USB-C, in case older sticks don’t work on the latest latest players. So everything is compatible. i will up date this saga after the visit to the dealer who is going to check player in the car.
  15. I wasn’t planning on buying a Nissan Leaf. I was only vaguely aware it was an option. We had been contemplating a fully electric car for a while, but were torn between a smaller vehicle and a larger one with a significant towing capacity. It was a toss-up between a Tesla Model Y as the larger option or something else as the smaller option, but we didn’t know what the something else would be. We stumbled into the local Nissan dealer while out window-shopping for cars recently, and they showed us three used Nissan Leafs they had in stock. After many questions with the dealer and a test drive, we bought the 2020 Nissan Leaf Tekna 40 kWh, subject to financing. I spent the next few days researching all I could about the car and organising financing and insurance. A week after the initial test drive, we drove the shiny new toy off the lot and took it home. This is our first fully electric vehicle. I previously had a non-plugin hybrid, so I was familiar with regenerative braking. However, driving a fully electric car is a different experience, so there would be a learning curve. The first and most apparent difference in the driving experience is the buttery smooth transition between accelerating and decelerating and the equally jolt-free transition from stationary to moving and from moving to stationary. Pulling up to a traffic light or otherwise coming to a complete stop is smooth, with no engine vibration, no jolt from a change in gears, etc. It’s an absolute joy to drive. The Nissan Leaf has an ePedal feature. This feature must be manually engaged when you start the car using a pull switch in the centre console near the gear stick. When engaged, the car maximises regenerative braking. Usually, when you press a car’s brake pedal, the car’s forward momentum is arrested as brake pads heat up through friction. All the car’s forward momentum energy is transferred to the brake pads' heating, so it’s lost as heat energy. When you lift your foot from the accelerator while the ePedal feature is engaged, the Leaf’s motor instantly becomes a generator. This happens each time the car slows down while driving, which can be quite often if you are in the city or the journey is primarily stop and go. All the car’s forward momentum is captured as energy used to charge the battery for as long as you’re braking. The transition from motor (using energy from the battery) to generator (putting energy into the battery) is instant and seamless. The more stop and go and braking (lifting your foot from the accelerator), the more energy is reclaimed and put back into the battery. Where the difference in driving experience is noticeable between the Leaf and a regular ICE (Internal Combustion Engine) car, is that the braking effect from just lifting your foot off the accelerator is considerably more acute – especially when ePedal is engaged. In other words, the car slows down much faster than you might otherwise expect. It takes a bit of getting used to. I love the ePedal, but my wife doesn’t. I do have to remember to engage the ePedal feature each time. Sometimes I forget, and then engage it after I’ve started moving the car, such as reversing out of the garage. The car then almost immediately comes to a complete stop due to the braking effect, so I’m still getting used to this. Range anxiety, or the fear of running out of battery charge at inconvenient times, is a genuine concern. Although the fear is real, we’ve not encountered any actual issues in practice. The car has three charging options, each associated with one of two different charging connectors under the small flap in front of the bonnet. When unlatched, either by pressing the button on the key fob or the button on a panel to the left of the steering wheel, the flap can be raised to reveal the two charging ports. The one on the left is the CHAdeMO charging port for fast charging (up to 50 kW). When at a fast charging station, you connect the cable physically and permanently attached to the charge pole into this slot. The charging port on the right side is for AC charging. Two cables come with the car for use with this slower AC charging port. One has a regular household plug on the end, which you use to plug the car in at home. That will give you a trickle charge (2.3 kW) which is relatively slow and typically requires the car to be plugged in overnight to charge the battery fully from near empty. The other is for charging faster at paid locations while out and about (6.6 kW). It’s slower than the CHAdeMO fast charger but fast enough to give you a decent charge after a couple of hours, such as while out shopping or at a restaurant. The CHAdeMO charger could take me from 15% to 80% in about half an hour. While researching the car, before I had paid for it, I learned that getting a battery SOH (State Of Health) report was prudent. Fortunately, the Nissan dealer accommodated this request and provided me with the report. In my case, the report showed the battery was still at 100% health. If the battery health deteriorates below a certain threshold after a certain period, the warranty kicks in and you can have the battery replaced under the warranty. As my Leaf is only 5 years old and came with just 18,500 KM, I did not expect any significant degradation. Using a dongle and a smartphone app called LeafSpy, you can extract detailed telemetry from the car, which provides much more in-depth insights into the vehicle’s usage, battery charging history, etc. I have yet to dive into that. The two charging cables that come with the car are heavy duty, and not the easiest to fold away tidily into the pocket on the inside of the boot. Life with a fully electric car now involves the logistics of managing these cables, taking them out and wrapping them away again after each charge session, etc. We’ve left the AC charger with the household plug permanently plugged in to a socket in the garage, so it’s always conveniently placed to plug in when the car is in the garage. However, it only just reaches. The cable is 5m long. The car itself is 4.5m long. Using extension cords is ill advised for various reasons, so having a plug socket adjacent to where the car is parked while charging is a consideration. You can find out how much charge the battery has at any point from the dashboard while the car is turned on, but there is also a Nissan smartphone app called NissanConnect EV, which you can use to access that information remotely. The car periodically communicates charging telemetry with Nissan’s computing cloud. The app then reads that data from the cloud to provide you updates. We’ve found this slow and the app somewhat buggy and limited. There’s another app called My Leaf. That’s marginally better but still quite slow to refresh and display updated information. With both apps, the information is never immediately at your fingertips – there’s always an annoying delay getting the refreshed data. Our experience with charging while out and about has been a little hit and miss. Our local McDonald’s has a charging pole from Vattenfall. There are two bays and three charging cable types. I’ve attempted to use it twice. Both times I’ve been able to park and hook up, but one time there was a message on the screen indicating there was no power available. I called the number listed and spoke to a real person, but they said they could do nothing since it was outside of regular office hours. The other time it worked perfectly, and I charged from 15% to 80% by the time I finished my meal. Fortunately, my employer provides free charging for electric vehicles. I’ve been able to charge my vehicle to 100% each time I’ve parked at the office, even when I only worked for a half-day. There are dozens of charging networks around the country and Europe. This means you might individually need to subscribe to each network to access their charging locations, which can be quite a hassle. I decided to take out a charge subscription with the ANWB, which affords me access to a wide range of chargers around the country and Europe. Although this doesn’t grant me access to every charge location, it covers a very wide range, and their app helps me identify locations, how many bays are available, what charge connection types are supported, how much it costs to charge there, etc. Being a relatively new car, at just 5 years old, it’s in very good condition. There are no dings or dents and it looks and feels as new. That said, we did have the red airbag warning light come on after a few days. The car is now booked in for a warranty repair of whatever that problem is. Otherwise, we can find no issues with the car. The car feels less spacious inside than other cars we’ve owned (our Citroen Picasso and Renault Megane were both larger vehicles on the inside). Somehow, I feel a little more enclosed in the Leaf. There is less space in the front seats than I would like. I’ve taken to placing a small towel between my right leg and the center console, as my right leg rests against the center console’s hard plastic otherwise, and it can feel a little uncomfortable after a while. After starting the car, I plug in my iPhone to use Apple’s Car Play in-car system. There’s nothing wrong with Nissan’s own in-car system, which seems nicely laid out and easy to use. I’ve just become accustomed to using Car Play in other vehicles and like it. My only gripe is that it can take up to thirty seconds after switching on and plugging the USB cable into the iPhone before the Car Play interface loads and starts. That might not sound like much but that’s about 25 seconds after I wanted to drive away already, and the delay this causes is often inconvenient. I don’t want to have to operate the touchscreen after I’ve started moving, for obvious reasons. One of the Leaf Tekna's really cool features is its 360-degree camera vision. When the camera is engaged (automatically while in reverse or otherwise when pressing a button), the views from the various cameras are stitched together to depict a top-down view of the car so that you can see all around it. This ensures you don’t bump into anything when manoeuvring the car around tight spaces, and it gives you more peace of mind and confidence while reversing. The Leaf's primary fast-charging port is the CHAdeMO port. However, this standard is outgoing and being replaced by the CCS (Combined Charging System) standard. As the CCS standard slowly takes over, fewer fast chargers will have CHAdeMO. Eventually, it will be necessary to get an adapter. Currently, there are a few adapters on the market, but it is early days and they are expensive, ranging anywhere from €750 to €1100. Having an adapter will open up a lot more charging options for the Leaf, but I expect the prices to come down over time as more adapters become available and economies of scale kick in. Other nice features of the Leaf are the adaptive cruise control and lane assist. Adaptive cruise control means you can set a speed and the car will automatically adjust up and down (without going over) as required depending on whether traffic is ahead of you. If traffic in front slows down, so will the Leaf. When the traffic ahead speeds up, so will the Leaf. The lane assist will keep the Leaf in lane even during light turns. Technically, you can take your hands off the wheel, and the car will still steer itself. There are limitations. It doesn’t work for anything other than a slight bend in the road, and the system will warn you if it detects you’ve let go of the steering wheel for over a few seconds. While engaged, the cruise control warns you if you get too close to, or go over, the white road line markings. It grabs your attention with audible and physical alerts. You hear what sounds like a car horn and the steering wheel vibrates simultaneously. Nissan got this just right. Together, these warning signals grab your attention but are not so shocking as to scare the wits out of you. We have noticed that the indicated range at the start of any journey is much more optimistic than what we get in practice. When leaving my office with 100% battery charge, the car indicates a range of 255 KM. After driving 40 KM to my home, the range is indicated to be around 190 KM. Despite only driving 40 KM, the indicated range reduced by as much as 65 KM. Much of my drive home is on the motorway, where there is limited scope for capturing regenerative braking energy, but it still feels like we’re getting less than what’s promised – especially on longer trips. There is a touchscreen LCD display, but I find the resolution to be average at best. It could benefit from having a better resolution, not to mention a slightly higher placement on the dash, so we’re not having to look down at it so much. Even though the Tekna is the more premium version of the Leaf, it doesn’t have electrically operated seat adjustments for the passenger and driver seats. I really miss that. It does have a very good sound system, which we really like. That said, the Bose base unit in the boot does seem to take up some boot space. Also a missing feature is an automatic boot operation. My wife misses that feature also. Overall, we’re very happy with our 5-year-old 2020 Nissan Leaf Tekna 40 kWh. The positives outweigh the negatives by quite some margin. The car is delightful to drive. We’re thrilled with the purchase and have made a relatively seamless transition to fully electric driving.
  16. My Adblue light came on just before Christmas, it jumped from 1500 miles to 750 miles to 384 miles within seconds. I filled up but the light remained on and did not reset. I put some specialist cleaner in the Adblue tank to clear any crystallisation that may have taken place. That did not resolve it. It has therefore gone to the garage. They have called advising there is an Adblue update they need to put on the car, I am assuming that relates to the onboard computer. That makes no sense why the other would happen. Anyone had a similar experience. I am waiting for a call back to see if that resolves the issue but it doesn't sound right.
  17. 1 point
    Still got the Juke. 5 weeks in now and coming around to about 1k of driving. Best mpg I have managed is 54, Getting about 40 around the town. Should be getting my car back on the 10th unless they hit another snag.
  18. 1 point
    The NOX sensor B is measuring against NOX sensor A (B is usually behind A in the exhaust system) and if there is an exhaust leak then this could cause the issue
  19. Hi - Sorry for the delay in update but problem now cured. Took a while but finally back on the road. Had to take it to a main Nissan dealer 20 miles away in the end so as to connect it to their diagnostics system due to other garages near me not having older diagnostic computer kits compatible with my car. Not cheap. £120 later and they said that the Mass Airlow Unit and Knock sensor needed replacing. Their quote was £1671. Staggering. Said parts were the costly items. They said Airflow Unit was £565 plus VAT. No way! Anyway spoke to Paul at local garage and he said that in all his working life (over 20 years) he had only ever replaced one knock sensor in all that time so should ignore that. A search on ebay resulted in me purchasing Airflow Unit for just under £36. Yes only £36. Could have had it shipped from Australia for around £75 all in. Anyway booked car in with Paul who fitted it along with a couple of rubber gaitors for the steering rack. Total cost for his work was £60. Result - success. Car now runs just as it did before problem occurred so very 'happy bunny'.
  20. Hi Trevor ... thanks for your kind remarks! Yes, a month of ownership and no real disasters (yet 🤣) .... the keyless entry works 100% of the time but the keyless start is a bit erratic, often resulting in the emergency key being used .... I've replaced the batteries in the fobs and used WD 40 in the barrel .. but problem still exists ... any clues? .... also the replaced the front sidelight bulbs with LED bulbs and the nearside blows almost instantly ... mystery indeed! Cheers Steve
  21. 1 point
    Important from South Africa Log book and paper work for sale please call 07432601196. Paul for anymore information white pick up 2door. Good condition Nissan Sunny with a hard. Top
  22. Hi Im in the Southend on sea area and sadly selling my Nissan Serena cvt. 2004. 174,854 miles, 1990cc automatic 7 seat mini van. This van is well used, scrapes on bumpers tatty wheel covers some paint missing from the side mirrors. Interior is stil in a reasonable condition. Main issues that need attention is the right hand lower suspension arm needs replacing and the automatic side door motor also needs replacing ( wasn’t working when I bought it) tires are brand new and has mot till October. Condition apart from suspension arm is how I purchased it. Engine runs lovely still. Selling as no longer need a big car. £1200 ono
  23. I swapped the cluster this weekend. Also took the opportunity to replace the crappy OEM-radio with a Bluetooth one. Used a 1-din dashkit for that, looks quite alright actually. Nothing needs to be done to enable the replacement cluster. It’s plug and play. The mileage is stored in the cluster, so make sure you install one with slightly higher mileage than what you have as to not get into any odometer issues during the next MOT. I swapped my faulty 179k cluster with disabled check engine light for a unmolested one with 185k on it. Paid 40 bucks for it at a local junk yard. Those extra 6k in mileage won’t hurt the (non-existent) resale value anyway.
  24. I wonder if the read out is faulty and the actual fuel is not dropping in the tank as it would seem The best way is to fill to the brim, run the car for a while once the mileage is reset and then refill and calculate the mileage travelled and how many litres Do a calculation and see what the actual miles per gallon work out at
  25. Nissan note 2008 1.6 Petrol Having listened to my drive belt squealing like a strangled cat thought it best I changed it, car has done 140,000 on what I think was the original belt. First as it’s a 1.6 petrol it only has one belt, cheapest place was Halfords at £17. Next watched videos on how to change it, easy I thought, so set to work. Jacked up and on axle stand removed drivers side wheel then attacked the inner wing lining, lots of popper fittings and screws, lot of poppers broke on removal, made sure I had spares. Now I can see the drive belt, well cracked and shiny, slacked tensioner pulley bolt (13 mm) and removed the belt, easy. Checked out belt against new, all ok but could I get the new belt on, no way. Tried the tensioner pulley adjuster, this was a nightmare to get at as you cannot see it all touchy feelly, anyway the adjuster was rusted and not for moving, only option left was to remove the pulley. Cleaned it up and freed up adjuster, next challenge was to re fit the adjuster, which you have to do blind and you can only use one hand, after a lot of cursing I still couldn’t get the thing into position. Looked how to gain better access, remove the front grill and then get another pair of hands to hold the adjuster in place while I re fitted the pulley, easy. Put the new drive belt on and now with relatively easy access to the adjuster tensioned the belt. No more squealing, job took in total about three hours around two hours longer than needed. So before I do my wife’s car going to ensure the tensioner bolt is lubricated, was the main cause of the delay. Will also just remove the front grill and see if it can be changed without having to remove inner wheel arch liner. Hope my experience saves people time and effort.
  26. 1 point
    Now that could be both suspension or brakes Brakes is more like a clicking noise if the pads are moving in the carrier but if the caliper is loose then this will also make a noise Check the caliper is firmly secured it will flop around and you will hear a clunking noise if not If you place a wheel wrench on the wheel nut and move the car backwards and fowards with it that should narrow down the are of the noise
  27. hi I a;ready bought 2 adapters - for radio and for TV but where to install them? no idea where tv and radio amplifier are ..8-) atm has changed some things.. on the bonnet is the "proper" emblem - not lying but standing- and I should finish - maybe today adding a SECOND sound system with modern radio and another set of speakers. Because inside is a very complicated Bosse system and no1 in Bristol wanted to work with my Nissan I decided to put inside the second system..So I will have all the modern tools like Bloototh, wi-fi and of course Uk radio with normal frequency. I will post some pictures when I finish it completely and here are the pictures
  28. Hi thanks for your reply I'm confident the other switches are ok as the interior light now comes on which ever door I open so I assume there working.
  29. Thanks for the warm welcome Trevor. it was indeed as you described, a clip down by the gear selector arm in the engine bay. i found a clip down there obstructing the movement (it fell off the air filter box). i then moved the gear linkage arm around a bit and made sure everything was connected and moving in the right way and it seemed to fix it. silly really, but sometimes, that's just how it goes hahah
  30. Engine fault light and lane departure light apparently due to loose battery connection. Driver’s side mirror when reversing still not fixed still points upwards instead of down.
  31. 1 point
    Hi all thought I’d drop in before placing my first post in the hope you can help
  32. 1 point
    Have now bought a Qashqai e-power which is great but can anyone tell me why the power lever when pushed forward mades the car go backwards and when pushed back the car goes forward? I am only a simple sailor ( retired Marine Engineer) but it has me baffled..... Davidpincombe
  33. I've had a reply from Glyn Hopkin: https://video.citnow.com/vtNMwr0bg1j As I said to the salesman: "And I was supposed to know that because.....?"
  34. Hi Trevor, blasting didn't work so took it to the local Nissan Dealership. They identified a problem with the Ad-blue system and replaced the tank and pump on warranty. Did a great job. 👍
  35. I must’ve hit the kerb hard and knocked the back wheel out of place. Kwik Fit re-aligned the wheel and the message has disappeared. I will book it in at Nissan to check, because the wheel isn’t fully straight.
  36. Hi Trevor, thanks for your response! That gives me a bit more confidence that its just going to be a bit of a learning curve
  37. 1 point
    Hello, I believe if you put the town in that box, rather than the postcode, it will then let you input the road and then the door number in the other boxes. I hope this helps.
  38. Hi there did you get to the bottom of this problem as i have the same thing
  39. 1 point
    Hi I am chris I got nissan qashqai 2014 1.5dci have had it for 3 years red have done some mods on it great car love it best car I have in a long while do most of my own work on it also
  40. 1 point
    Hi Luke.....welcome to the Club I would say you are correct that it is the antenna and as far as I am aware it would not need coding to the vehicle as it does not generate or hold the immobilise code (the ECU would have that information) it simply amplifies the signal from the immobiliser chip in the key fob
  41. Hi is anyone able to advise where I can get oem Gt edition side decals? Like eBay and other places online advertising 370 accessories these decals they offer just seem to be Ali express stuff and the decals do not fit,the writing is to long,I expected maybe poorer quality but not the actual writing itself to be the wrong size lol. Thanks in advance for any replies.
  42. 1 point
    Hi everyone, greetings from Denmark and thanks for membership. I´m here for tips and tricks, hope I can get some and give some. My car is a Micra K13 facelift
  43. Yes Trevor we will there is a place and they have different lengths I'll find the web site over weekend
  44. You will need to take it on a long run (say around 20 miles or so) at a moderate speed but at high revs (not 5th or 6th gear) so that the pressure builds up to break up the collection of soot in both the EGR and DPF. Try to keep the speed and revs constant so motorway is probably best and later in the evening. Keep any eye on the engine temperature but it will go slightly higher whilst trying to purge the EGR/DPF. Also, it may be accompanied by a burning smell but this is part of the process. After you finish the run, allow the engine to cool down for a period. I would aim to give the car a run at least once a week to ensure the engine does not clog up in the future
  45. 1 point
    After several years of absence it feels good to be back behind the wheel of a Nissan automobile. Thanks alot for the acceptance into the club and I look forward to many great memories !
  46. 1 point
    Thanks i did not think it would . he says he a has changed a few with no probs
  47. 1 point
    You are not a nissan dealer are you?
  48. Hi....welcome to the Club Two things come to mind... 1. Crankshaft Sensor which looks for rotation of the crankshaft which will signal the Engine Management System (EMS) and give the command to fuel and spark dependent on engine speed. If this is faulty (usually when hot and the resistance changes) then this can cut the engine and start when cooled down. 2. Throttle Body adaptation which is adjustable using a scan tool. A lot of times this comes down to carbon build up and benefits from cleaning which gives a constant smooth idle speed A scan of the EMS should give stored fault codes which lead to a more precise diagnosis Let us know how you get on with it all
  49. I've just got off the phone to Nissan (Colebrook way, Andover) they've advised me to take it back to the garage that fit the head gasket and check that they've plugged the sensor in properly. I've basically got to start at the beginning and work out the problem. On a positive note the sensor light stayed off for the mot and passed today 🙌 booked in next Friday (once I'm out of isolation). Fingers crossed its something so simple 🤞
  50. 1 point
    Thanks Trevor..
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