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Hmm, seems like someone had the issue before and a bodge was carried to rectify the issue (or at least attempt to rectify it). There is an issue with the timing chains and as far as I can see it was a recall from Nissan. It does suggest that it occurs on hard acceleration (e.g. from a slip-road) and if the chain is slack it can drift away from the timing point by a small fraction (much like a loose timing belt) which can then throw a code for cam/crank timing and result in what you are experiencing. I would personally replace the engine oil and look to see what has come out - e.g. metal particles and then replace it with the specified oil which may have not been supplied with previously. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/engine-oil-12094/nissan/pulsar/pulsar-hatchback-c13/107484-1-2-dig-t If you use a quality oil of the correct specifications (as listed in the link above) and see if that makes any difference to how it runs. If no real difference is noted then I would advise to get the timing chain replaced which will almost certainly make a difference if it is worn

I use a smart screen with Android Auto. Then connect my phone via BlueTooth and use Waze map. Less expensive and live updates of accidents, traffic jams etc.

I had the same problem radio cutting off there is a fee upgrade from nissan now work perfectly it's a common problem

Hello, I am joining this forum with hopes to be able to supply you guys with some hard to come by parts for your beloved Nissans, as the title states we are the second oldest Nissan dealer in the uk and we are looking to move some of our older parts that have been stored away for years. I will be doing a follow up post with our parts list which should have thousands of items for you guys to sift through at your leisure, I just wanted to test the waters to see how helpful this would be for you guys, any responses or comments appreciated. Kind regards, Oscar

Hi all! Im thinking of getting a Pathfinder in the next month or two. Wanted something bigger for going fishing/camping and always loved the look of the Pathfinder. Especially the older shape (07/08 models). Has anyone got a rot free one with upgraded timing chain they are thinking of parting with? Thanks in advance 🤘🏻🙂 Harry

I would say it is the anti-roll bar drop links that are failing - replaced some a little while ago and they put up a fight so be prepared to spend quite a bit of time grinding them off. Also, check the coil springs are not snapped and that the dampers are not leaking

New to pathfinders. After doing some light modifications for a bit of off road use and was wondering what stealth winches people are using. Would like to keep the original bumper. Any guides about. Tia

Its such a scam and see it all the time - easy money for the garages. It is possible to fit replacement rubbers if all they are is perished. As long as they are not perforated and leaking grease or if there is any play in the joints then it is perfectly serviceable. Advise on the MOT sheet but not necessary to replace otherwise. Recently fitted a replacement lower arm on wife's Juke and then replaced it a year later as the first (cheaper one) knocked the joint out in no time - more expensive one, quite a bit heavier duty for the N/S location and almost twice the weight. An easy job to carry out yourself and definitely not £1200 worth of repairs. Kept the old rubbers to use if necessary in the future. :-)

I would normally agree with you regarding the engine being run in but if a previous owner just took it to the shops once a week or crawled through traffic in urban areas the engine would not necessarily be run in correctly (many diesel engines with high mileage can be stripped down and still find the honing marks scored into the bores....suggesting that the engine has not been run in correctly). I have torn down engines with just 21k miles and found the bores to be completely worn but equally I have found engines with over 100k miles to still be as fresh as the day it was built. It all depends on how it has been driven. Another example is a BMW R1200GS motorbike I had for many years. When I bought it, it was consuming quite a lot of engine oil, I changed the grade but it didn't like it (just yet). The bike had only covered 24k miles but it was sluggish and didn't respond as it should. I rode the bike hard (as it should be ridden) with high revs in each gear and eventually it was a completely different bike. No longer did it consume oil but I could happily change the oil grade accordingly. The long and short of it is that it was not run in correctly and I managed to change that by riding it hard for a period of time. Most diesel engines are not revved hard enough to burn off carbon (which could be gumming up the rings into the piston and not sealing in the cylinder efficiently, blocked EGR, blocked DPF, etc. All they usually need is an 'Italian Tune-up' to keep it all clean. Moral of this lengthy reply is - if it is consuming oil between services then I would consider that my theory is correct. Also try a cylinder leak-down test which will show exactly which cylinder or valves have pressure leaking past them. Very easy test with visible and audible results

When I had this i thought it was a phone or car setting. Can't really remember but I did get it to stop by altering which ever setting it was.

oh very nice car ! Welcome to the forum and keep us updated on the progress

My thoughts exactly. I’m thinking that the 05-12 Pathfinder LE’s, when in 2WD, do not have the front transfer case engaged at all. There’s no hub lock or unlock on these. Unless selecting 4WD is what you’re referring to by manually locking the hubs. AWD is a confusing on this vehicle. I don’t think that the hubs are technically locked, but they’re obviously engaged, and the drive is put to the front by “The System” when it senses “Slip” I guess. And if your front tires are mismatched, it might sense slip continuously. I guess that I could put the truck up on the lift, start it and engage “Drive”(2WD), and just see what’s spinning. I would assume that the forward drive shaft always spins, but that the transfer case is not engaged. Another way would probably be to put on the new front tire on the front paired with the used front tire and go drive. If it’s a problem, the “VDC” and “Slip” lights would probably come on.

Hi Sappo, I took delivery of my Juke Hybrid in December, so now have three months experience with it. My primary reason for changing was the Juke's higher ride - I previously had three Toyota Hybrids (Auris and Corolla) and was starting to struggle getting in and out due to a back problem. To that end the Juke has been a 100% improvement. However, for my money the Toyota Hybrid system is far superior. I could easily exceed 60mpg with the Toyotas without making any adjustments. Best I have achieved so far with the Juke is 52 - that is using Eco Drive and e-pedal, both of which have to be activated every time I start up. I have no mechanical expertise but I cannot understand why the Juke revs so high when travelling between 28-31, which for most of us is the speed we drive at around town. That said, I find the car has a very solid feel (maybe a more "robust" ride than the Toyota) and I feel safe in it. Psalmist

My brother once owned a 1984 Nissan Pulsar, silver colored and I believe it had an automatic transmission. I'm now retired and wondering where could I find a very nice, low mile, garaged, nice example of a first generation Pulsar NX ? I'm sure I will learn the meaning of patience as it could take years to find a truly nice condition low mile Pulsar of that era. I do keep an eye out generally on internet but hoping there are specific places, such as car clubs? events where these kinds of cars gather? My guess is they are not considered collectable and probably most have rusted away in wrecking yards by now.

Thanks bloke, nice to be welcomed and pleased to be standing 😉 I haven't even looked through your forum but I'm guessing you're a street car forum,?.. I'm 4x4, although I did own a Datsun "shovel nose" back in the day 🙂 know a little of the early KA series... but I'm here looking for information on differentials.. C200 in the Nissan Navaras in Aust..

My Adblue light came on just before Christmas, it jumped from 1500 miles to 750 miles to 384 miles within seconds. I filled up but the light remained on and did not reset. I put some specialist cleaner in the Adblue tank to clear any crystallisation that may have taken place. That did not resolve it. It has therefore gone to the garage. They have called advising there is an Adblue update they need to put on the car, I am assuming that relates to the onboard computer. That makes no sense why the other would happen. Anyone had a similar experience. I am waiting for a call back to see if that resolves the issue but it doesn't sound right.

Hi everyone, I'm Ian, currently living in Norfolk. My wife died recently, leaving me with an NX100 coupe. She bought it new in Brunei in 1992 and imported it the same year, so I guess you could call it one lady owner from new. As I already have two other cars, I would like to see it go to a good home, so if anyone is interested out there, please let me know. Stay safe Ian

Maybe it is the same sensor part number if the lead is long enough to reach - that is assuming it has a B sensor.....if you do find another there, change the plugs over to the A sensor and see if the fault transfers to A sensor

Hi there, I have a 1967 Nissan Patrol sitting in my shed. Originally the family car, then in recent times used as a fire fighting vehicle on acreage. Last three years not used at all.Original engine turns over (with a squirt of fuel into Carby) Odometer 98,000 miles. This would be a great project for an enthusiast but I don’t know where to start to advertise my vehicle or what value I should place on it. Can anyone offer any guidance? Thank you in anticipation.

Hi I did managed to remove that, however after i paint them i cannot put them back due to yellow clip is loose in the rail and i cannot remove it. Please help

I have a 2020 Marano with this very same issue. I keep taking it to the dealership telling them about it. They say there is debris in the tracks. We either keep it covered or in the garage. I do not park under trees. I don’t know what kind of debris they are talking about, I have noticed everything under the driver seat is rusted when I pointed that out to the dealership they told me it must’ve been up north for an extended time or near the coast neither of which is the case we have not been out of town to those areas. I put in a complaint with Nissan directly and I got some hateful woman who called me and said I’m denied because my car is out of warranty however I’ve been going with this problem since we bought it. I now realize that they never intend to help us. It’s terrible what it is doing to the inside of my car, I’d like to know what anyone might have done to get Nissan to take notice of this design flaw has anyone found a fix?

Hi All , I have just replaced both window winder motors in my 350Z track . On looking up all the available threads to do it , I noticed all the hassles owners have to overcome to get the window up for the repair . I was desperate , when mine jammed in the down position before I was ready to fix it , and still needed to use it . I started the motor , pulled the window switch up and banged the inside of the door panel roughly alongside where the motor is located . It jarred up the worn brushes for one last effort , and the window wound up much to my relief . I fastened two soft jaw Stanley clamps on the window to keep it from falling down again , while replacing the motor . One bit of advice I have noted on previous forums going forward , to avoid having to do the job again in the future . Is never to let the window go all the way to the bottom if you can help it , when using the window . It is a big heavy window , and needs a lot of leverage to move it resting at its lowest point . This is what prematurely wears the brushes out . That and try not to raise and lower the window with the motor off , this too stresses the brushes as the voltage is not as strong . Wish you luck , you can save a lot of money doing it yourself .

Sounds like the Tire sensor has gone bad

Hi - just bought my first Nissan ... a 2008 1.6 ltr Micra K12 cc Sport convertible in silver. 3 previous owners and 116k on the clock... it was a cat n insurance write off due to light damage to boot lid and rear bumper! It runs excellently, even the intelligent key works (well most of the time - lol!) ... and the roof works perfectly, so looking forward to the summer months! A few pics the 'Micra Machine' attached. Cheers Steve!

Merry Christmas all..pick up a 1990 Silvia project recently..will be looking help info as project progress..thanks all..

Hi again, i have found the culprit! before replacing the fuel filter i gave the hoses another check over, turns out the boost pressure hose has a big split in it around 2 inch in length! I have a new one on order. For now, i taped around the hose to “bodge” it and straight away the difference in pulling power was night and day!.. a big puff of black smoke and off she went! A fresh MOT and the family wagon is back on the road. 👏

I am a newbie here and have a '85 300ZX (see pic) that I am trying to find maintenance for in San Antonio,TX. I would like to find a reliable maintenance shop for regular support as well as when it needs more in-depth attention. Does anyone have a suggestion or two? Thanks.

Hi Trevor, thanks for the info. I'm going to be replacing the transfer box sensors shortly so I'll take a look whilst I'm under there. Im not 100% sure what I'm doing but trying hard to get the car operational asap. I've tried everything I can think of so far and still no dice. I appreciate the thinking and will let you know how I get on

Nissan note 2008 1.6 Petrol Having listened to my drive belt squealing like a strangled cat thought it best I changed it, car has done 140,000 on what I think was the original belt. First as it’s a 1.6 petrol it only has one belt, cheapest place was Halfords at £17. Next watched videos on how to change it, easy I thought, so set to work. Jacked up and on axle stand removed drivers side wheel then attacked the inner wing lining, lots of popper fittings and screws, lot of poppers broke on removal, made sure I had spares. Now I can see the drive belt, well cracked and shiny, slacked tensioner pulley bolt (13 mm) and removed the belt, easy. Checked out belt against new, all ok but could I get the new belt on, no way. Tried the tensioner pulley adjuster, this was a nightmare to get at as you cannot see it all touchy feelly, anyway the adjuster was rusted and not for moving, only option left was to remove the pulley. Cleaned it up and freed up adjuster, next challenge was to re fit the adjuster, which you have to do blind and you can only use one hand, after a lot of cursing I still couldn’t get the thing into position. Looked how to gain better access, remove the front grill and then get another pair of hands to hold the adjuster in place while I re fitted the pulley, easy. Put the new drive belt on and now with relatively easy access to the adjuster tensioned the belt. No more squealing, job took in total about three hours around two hours longer than needed. So before I do my wife’s car going to ensure the tensioner bolt is lubricated, was the main cause of the delay. Will also just remove the front grill and see if it can be changed without having to remove inner wheel arch liner. Hope my experience saves people time and effort.

Okay, I did what I should've done before posting a question, and checked the technical manual. It seems getting the cluster out is straight forward. Remove radio, remove temperature controls, remove cluster panel and then remove the gauge cluster. Nissan calls it a "combination meter" for whatever reason. I've attached the relevant page here if someone else comes across this topic in the future. I haven't found where mileage is stored, but I'm assuming in the cluster itself. I'm gonna order one with similar mileage. If mileage turns out to be recorded somewhere else that would be a bonus, but if not a few extra thousand miles on the odometer won't hurt and won't set off any alarm bells during the next MOT.

Hello there im searching for a 1990 sunny coupe gti rear spoiler, hope somewhan can help me find one or hase one for sale.

Thank you. I am going to choose Avon.

I will definitely check all of the points of ground connection, and make sure that all BCM connections are secure and dry. Thank you for that insight. I was researching where the BCM is located, and it appears to be behind the instrument panel. Is that correct?

SOLVED. Thank you very much. Nissan Ukraine were able to supply the certificate - quickly and without a fee. It is needed in order to complete the form to register the car in the UK. Thank you again. Springnuts.

Thankyou.shes got wheels now! I am trying to keep it as period as possible

Would any one like to swap their GTR for my 350z…one lady owner, never drifted

I would recommend getting something like a silicon hose which would be stronger and cheap to buy by the length Try Demon Tweeks as they have a good range of hoses

We have a Juke in the family and the clutch is also quite lively and takes a few more revs to keep things smooth when pulling away

Hi there did you get to the bottom of this problem as i have the same thing

Hi I am chris I got nissan qashqai 2014 1.5dci have had it for 3 years red have done some mods on it great car love it best car I have in a long while do most of my own work on it also

Hi I have a set of Dynamic (led) wing mirror repeaters for sale. Brand new never fitted cost £15:85 selling for £13 plus p&p. 1 full set of Mud Flaps brand new never fitted cost £18:85 selling for £16 plus p&p. Thet are for a 2015 J11 model qashqai. If this post is not allowed sorry and please remove.

Common fault on Qashqai is condenser failure. Perhaps your A/C system doesn’t have gas in and isn’t working accurately.

I have purchased a 1991 Nissan Vanette. I just wondered if there were any other owners?

Not sure on the differences without doing a side by side comparison and also taking it for an extended test drive and seeing how they compare. If you are looking to trade before Christmas means the trader would probably be keen to make the sale so a good deal could possibly be had at this time of year.

Hello, Just found this page. I have a 1985 1800 SGL. I have owned the vehicle from new. I have every service record MOT etc. The car was in practical classic about 5 years ago. Never been rebuilt or sprayed all original. Runs like a dream. Cheers Paul.

You are not a nissan dealer are you?

Thank you for that clear and concise information. Much appreciated. I will let you know how i get on.

Hi, not had chance to really look yet, what with work and crappy weather, will post when I do, thanks m8

Will be trying a new suction control valve, will let you know if it works