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Hmm, seems like someone had the issue before and a bodge was carried to rectify the issue (or at least attempt to rectify it). There is an issue with the timing chains and as far as I can see it was a recall from Nissan. It does suggest that it occurs on hard acceleration (e.g. from a slip-road) and if the chain is slack it can drift away from the timing point by a small fraction (much like a loose timing belt) which can then throw a code for cam/crank timing and result in what you are experiencing. I would personally replace the engine oil and look to see what has come out - e.g. metal particles and then replace it with the specified oil which may have not been supplied with previously. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/engine-oil-12094/nissan/pulsar/pulsar-hatchback-c13/107484-1-2-dig-t If you use a quality oil of the correct specifications (as listed in the link above) and see if that makes any difference to how it runs. If no real difference is noted then I would advise to get the timing chain replaced which will almost certainly make a difference if it is worn

I use a smart screen with Android Auto. Then connect my phone via BlueTooth and use Waze map. Less expensive and live updates of accidents, traffic jams etc.

I had the same problem radio cutting off there is a fee upgrade from nissan now work perfectly it's a common problem

Hello, I am joining this forum with hopes to be able to supply you guys with some hard to come by parts for your beloved Nissans, as the title states we are the second oldest Nissan dealer in the uk and we are looking to move some of our older parts that have been stored away for years. I will be doing a follow up post with our parts list which should have thousands of items for you guys to sift through at your leisure, I just wanted to test the waters to see how helpful this would be for you guys, any responses or comments appreciated. Kind regards, Oscar

Hi all! Im thinking of getting a Pathfinder in the next month or two. Wanted something bigger for going fishing/camping and always loved the look of the Pathfinder. Especially the older shape (07/08 models). Has anyone got a rot free one with upgraded timing chain they are thinking of parting with? Thanks in advance 🤘🏻🙂 Harry

Thank you. I'll give that a try. So the rear N/S rear window gets 0.69v when operated from the drivers switch and the O/S rear window gets 3.67v when operated from the driver switch. I've pulled the driver switch apart and there's a 47uf 35v vt capacitor that was very loose and broke off. I've managed to solder it back on to close the windows. I'm going to order a ne Drivers windows switch and replace before i continue to trace the issue. Ground's seem good. I used some extra wire to bypass the ground on the plug and nothing changed. I know the rear switches work as when i hold down the Drivers switch and toggle the rear switch the window stops moving so i know the rear switch is inturupting the driver switch signal but the rear switch is just not sending the signal down to the motor. So i assume there's some back/forth with the main switch/BCM which is not getting completed. Fingers crossed it's the main drivers switch and not the BCM module. I may have to buy a laptop and grab a copy of Nissan Consult III. The service manual suggests there's a BCM test for windows which might be handy to identify the issue.

I know... so nothing. But, Thanks.

Okey! I’ll try and see if it helps. Maybe with some cleaning additive in the fuel?

I would normally agree with you regarding the engine being run in but if a previous owner just took it to the shops once a week or crawled through traffic in urban areas the engine would not necessarily be run in correctly (many diesel engines with high mileage can be stripped down and still find the honing marks scored into the bores....suggesting that the engine has not been run in correctly). I have torn down engines with just 21k miles and found the bores to be completely worn but equally I have found engines with over 100k miles to still be as fresh as the day it was built. It all depends on how it has been driven. Another example is a BMW R1200GS motorbike I had for many years. When I bought it, it was consuming quite a lot of engine oil, I changed the grade but it didn't like it (just yet). The bike had only covered 24k miles but it was sluggish and didn't respond as it should. I rode the bike hard (as it should be ridden) with high revs in each gear and eventually it was a completely different bike. No longer did it consume oil but I could happily change the oil grade accordingly. The long and short of it is that it was not run in correctly and I managed to change that by riding it hard for a period of time. Most diesel engines are not revved hard enough to burn off carbon (which could be gumming up the rings into the piston and not sealing in the cylinder efficiently, blocked EGR, blocked DPF, etc. All they usually need is an 'Italian Tune-up' to keep it all clean. Moral of this lengthy reply is - if it is consuming oil between services then I would consider that my theory is correct. Also try a cylinder leak-down test which will show exactly which cylinder or valves have pressure leaking past them. Very easy test with visible and audible results

i would say its a case for the ombudsmen and certainly run it past citizens advice to get some more guidance on pursuing a claim If unsuccesful then a secondhand engine (with the revised cooling system parts) may be the most financially advisable way forwards

oh very nice car ! Welcome to the forum and keep us updated on the progress

Sounds like water ingress into the electronics or sensors (not sure how deep the water was). If it is allowed to dry out in the sun then possibly it may work then.

Hi Mike, I have a completely stock 350z for sale. Are you still on the search for a well maintained one? thanks, Fred.

Hi Paul, thanks for reply. the files are mp3, so should all play. I am using a one of the newer sticks, USB-C, in case older sticks don’t work on the latest latest players. So everything is compatible. i will up date this saga after the visit to the dealer who is going to check player in the car.

Hi Trevor, Thank you for your input, anything helps at this point, much appreciated! All the best, Daniel

Hello, I recently imported a rare Nissan Stagea 350S with the 6 x speed manual gearbox only 167 were made by AUTECH , i took it for its first mot today and it failed on both front lower control arm inner bushes would anybody know who can supply me with items or better still a pair of wishbones which makes the job easier for the mechanic. Cheers .. jimcrickuk@aol.com

Yes correct! replaced the battery - all sorted - never seen a car react like that just for low battery - weird!

Maybe it is the same sensor part number if the lead is long enough to reach - that is assuming it has a B sensor.....if you do find another there, change the plugs over to the A sensor and see if the fault transfers to A sensor

Hi there, I have a 1967 Nissan Patrol sitting in my shed. Originally the family car, then in recent times used as a fire fighting vehicle on acreage. Last three years not used at all.Original engine turns over (with a squirt of fuel into Carby) Odometer 98,000 miles. This would be a great project for an enthusiast but I don’t know where to start to advertise my vehicle or what value I should place on it. Can anyone offer any guidance? Thank you in anticipation.

Hi Hoping someone can help with problem I am having with my QX. Car starts but tickover not smooth. As soon as you touch accelerator pedal it dies. Eventually after numerous attempts it will rev up but will not rev past 2000rpm. just pops and bangs which obviously is not good. If you engage drive (4 speed auto with overdrive) it stalls. Need to hold revs at around 1300 -1400rpm to get it to pullaway but of course it does so with a jerk. Once on the go gearbox changes are often hesitent along with its reluctance to rev. Have serviced the car along with new plugs. Even changed transmission oil. No Engine management warning lights on dash. No warning lights of any kind. Car has covered just under 130,000 miles and never had any problems like this before. Has always started 1st time and run smooth as clockwork. Any ideas/suggestions as to cause and cure would be gratefully appreciated. Many thanks Mike

Hi, same issue I had. Battery is fully charged. All the lights were on but not starting. I found this in another forum I followed the advice and I worked. Hope it’ll help 🙂 Thanks Jackyboy117’s advise : ‘I turned the ignition switch to the second point just before you start the engine, I then got out the car and disconnected the negative lead and replaced straight away. Now the car started to try and start but would only make the noise. I then had to shut all doors and bonnets, turn the engine off, lock the car with the key, open the car with the key, half turn the ignition and leave for 5 mins. Once the 5 mins is up turn off the car and straight away start.’

Hi - just bought my first Nissan ... a 2008 1.6 ltr Micra K12 cc Sport convertible in silver. 3 previous owners and 116k on the clock... it was a cat n insurance write off due to light damage to boot lid and rear bumper! It runs excellently, even the intelligent key works (well most of the time - lol!) ... and the roof works perfectly, so looking forward to the summer months! A few pics the 'Micra Machine' attached. Cheers Steve!

Hi Trevor ... thanks for your kind remarks! Yes, a month of ownership and no real disasters (yet 🤣) .... the keyless entry works 100% of the time but the keyless start is a bit erratic, often resulting in the emergency key being used .... I've replaced the batteries in the fobs and used WD 40 in the barrel .. but problem still exists ... any clues? .... also the replaced the front sidelight bulbs with LED bulbs and the nearside blows almost instantly ... mystery indeed! Cheers Steve

Picking up 2012 highway star Serena in a couple of weeks. Excited.

Important from South Africa Log book and paper work for sale please call 07432601196. Paul for anymore information white pick up 2door. Good condition Nissan Sunny with a hard. Top

Samco are a company that specialise in Silicon hoses so they can provide different diameters and lengths and you can also get couplings and adapters to make up your own hoses

I wonder if the read out is faulty and the actual fuel is not dropping in the tank as it would seem The best way is to fill to the brim, run the car for a while once the mileage is reset and then refill and calculate the mileage travelled and how many litres Do a calculation and see what the actual miles per gallon work out at

Nissan note 2008 1.6 Petrol Having listened to my drive belt squealing like a strangled cat thought it best I changed it, car has done 140,000 on what I think was the original belt. First as it’s a 1.6 petrol it only has one belt, cheapest place was Halfords at £17. Next watched videos on how to change it, easy I thought, so set to work. Jacked up and on axle stand removed drivers side wheel then attacked the inner wing lining, lots of popper fittings and screws, lot of poppers broke on removal, made sure I had spares. Now I can see the drive belt, well cracked and shiny, slacked tensioner pulley bolt (13 mm) and removed the belt, easy. Checked out belt against new, all ok but could I get the new belt on, no way. Tried the tensioner pulley adjuster, this was a nightmare to get at as you cannot see it all touchy feelly, anyway the adjuster was rusted and not for moving, only option left was to remove the pulley. Cleaned it up and freed up adjuster, next challenge was to re fit the adjuster, which you have to do blind and you can only use one hand, after a lot of cursing I still couldn’t get the thing into position. Looked how to gain better access, remove the front grill and then get another pair of hands to hold the adjuster in place while I re fitted the pulley, easy. Put the new drive belt on and now with relatively easy access to the adjuster tensioned the belt. No more squealing, job took in total about three hours around two hours longer than needed. So before I do my wife’s car going to ensure the tensioner bolt is lubricated, was the main cause of the delay. Will also just remove the front grill and see if it can be changed without having to remove inner wheel arch liner. Hope my experience saves people time and effort.

Hi keithtoon ....welcome to the Club There are aftermarket companies on the internet selling SatNav update discs but beware, some work and some don't ! They are not too expensive and worth a try as cheaper than main dealer

Will do I’m booked in for next Tuesday.

For sale Nissan D21 stoke on Trent

It was the glow plug relay bought another one and everything seems fine now thanks

1989 Nissan Bluebird for sale Red 1.8L engine Automatic Hello, I’m trying to sell my lovely vintage Nissan Bluebird. The car has been off road for the past 6 months due to a relocation, and I can’t keep it any longer. MOT recently expired, and has a small (I’m told) engine problem, so new buyer would need to tow it. All working parts inside and under bonnet aside from engine problem. Drivers side electric window in need of new motor. It’s been well looked after, I’ve had it 3 years and before then was kept in storage for 10 years by an old collector. 65,000 miles approx very low for the age. I’m looking to sell for £1000-1500 but will consider any sensible offers in this region. I can be contacted on 07718 927124 and email ciaranthomaswood@gmail.com thanks

Hi Trevor, thanks for this. Ended up buying the car yesterday, 2.0L Qashqai+2 Acenta. Drives real smooth, lovely and quiet, decent power, overall, very happy with it. One thing my wife has ordered is a new gear know as the other has worn - are these easy to replace? Gear knobs of old simply screwed off, but this has the lift handle for reverse, and I'm wondering how much trouble this may cause?

I must’ve hit the kerb hard and knocked the back wheel out of place. Kwik Fit re-aligned the wheel and the message has disappeared. I will book it in at Nissan to check, because the wheel isn’t fully straight.

Hi, I'm Matt, just recently bought myself a Mk5 Micra Tekna 0.9 I-GT. Have a few questions about performance and a few other things around the car so look forward to having your thoughts on these in another thread! Thanks Matt

Hi all Recently bought a Murano 2.5 petrol Z51 Engine 2009. Looking forward to picking some brains here and sharing my knowledge too. I live in Auckland and have bought a Japanese import, very common here. It's a great car but am sure I'll have some questions soon! Cheers Nick

I have had the car checked and there are no issues. It appears to be a fault with the app and Nissan are looking into it.

Hi there did you get to the bottom of this problem as i have the same thing

Hi I am chris I got nissan qashqai 2014 1.5dci have had it for 3 years red have done some mods on it great car love it best car I have in a long while do most of my own work on it also

You will need to take it on a long run (say around 20 miles or so) at a moderate speed but at high revs (not 5th or 6th gear) so that the pressure builds up to break up the collection of soot in both the EGR and DPF. Try to keep the speed and revs constant so motorway is probably best and later in the evening. Keep any eye on the engine temperature but it will go slightly higher whilst trying to purge the EGR/DPF. Also, it may be accompanied by a burning smell but this is part of the process. After you finish the run, allow the engine to cool down for a period. I would aim to give the car a run at least once a week to ensure the engine does not clog up in the future

Thanks 😊 yeah you don’t see many and when I saw it come up for sale and the condition it was in I couldn’t pass it up. Only 49k from new! great to be on board 👌🏻

Probably more economical as well Maybe worthwhile looking through Autocar reviews on both models to see how they fair in a road test

Hi I have driven all sorts of vehicles cars bikes vans to articulated lorries. I have also driven electric vehicles before so it was not an issue, the issue was going to be around regular charging at home. My local and county council are stating the have no plans in the foreseeable future to install charging at the roadside in residential areas for people without access to off road parking. Their view is they want local residents to use public transport rather than their own vehicles so it looks like a backdoor way to force people out of having their own cars. I took the issue up with my local MP who also happens to be the secretary of state for transport. I had a dace to face meeting with him pointed out the councils proposed plans and informed him that 23% of the local vehicle owners were being prevented from taking up electric vehicle use. He appeared quite interested in the points I raised and said he would look at what action he could take to assist in the matter. Then some weeks latter like all good politicians he contacted me by email providing all the information and figures I had already given him indicating there was nothing he could do. I will now stay with an ICE vehicle for as long as I can before maybe then switching to hydrogen fuel cell vehicles if they materialise as they will be a better choice for people without access to off road parking.

Great I’ll take a look

Here is a procedure I found and seem to recall using the same technique before on a T31 You must use ORIGINAL KEY to start procedure 1. Sit in car lock all doors with power “switch lock on driver side door” 2. Using ORIGINAL key insert and remove key till doors UNLOCK within 8 seconds, usually insert and remove six times 3. Turn ORIGINAL key in ignition to ACC position (Do not start engine) 4. Lock all doors with “power door lock switch on Driver side door” 5. Press lock or unlock on NEW key this will match them up, if you have another key press lock or unlock as well, it will be programmed all keys to the same code. To exit program mode, turn the ignition OFF. UNLOCK the door using the driver side switch. Test fobs

I've just got off the phone to Nissan (Colebrook way, Andover) they've advised me to take it back to the garage that fit the head gasket and check that they've plugged the sensor in properly. I've basically got to start at the beginning and work out the problem. On a positive note the sensor light stayed off for the mot and passed today 🙌 booked in next Friday (once I'm out of isolation). Fingers crossed its something so simple 🤞

Hi Daroosi, did you ever resolve your screeching central locking as my 2007 model has started doing the same, Mickmoonie 🤘

Nissan Micra K12 Throttle Body Removal and Clean Welcome to this guide on how to remove and clean the throttle body on a Nissan Micra K12. This procedure was done on a 1.2 2003 petrol model. As I couldn't find a good tutorial on this process I thought I would have a go myself and then put together this guide for other people. The process is actually relatively straight forward once you know how. I was experiencing juddering at certain points on the rev range and when the car was in a certain gear, MPG had decreased plus some hunting when the car was idle. So I decided that I would clean the throttle body to see if that would help. I actually didn't know exactly where the throttle body was located on this model. It's actually located under the air intake box/top manifolds which are shown below. It's actually located inside and under the top of the plastic manifold housing. Once you have removed the throttle body you will realise that it's actually connected to one of the electrical connections on the top of the housing that you will need to disconnect as part of this process. Throttle body location This is where the throttle body is location on a 2003 1.2 petrol Nissan Micra K12. Tools required This is a list of tools and other items required to get to the throttle body, remove it from the housing and then clean it: Pliers or grips 10 mm socket Ratchet Toothbrush or cotton buds and an old but clean cloth A good carb/throttle body cleaner The process So here are the steps. Step 1 - Remove the air intake and air filter box Remove the air intake pipe (highlighted by the red arrow) by removing the plastic lugs that hold it to the front of the engine bay and then remove the other end from the air filter housing on the right. I had to slightly twist mine and then gave it a hard pull to detach it. Then remove the air filter housing from the manifold housing. Do this by unclipping the metal retaining clips (highlighted in blue in the image below) located on the front and the right side of the housing. There are only two clips that hold this in place. They simply unclip upwards and one remains connected to the top housing and the other remains connected to the air filter box. Once you have unclipped the air filter housing the front of it may drop away from you. It should not fall off completely as the back is held in place by the box being slid into holders in the back of the top housing. To remove the air filter box simply push the front down and when it's at a certain point pull the air filter housing towards you. This will pull it out of the rear mounts. Try to look at the rears mounts when you do this so that you can be sure you pushed it down enough to be able to pull it forward without snapping the plastic mounts on the back of the top housing. You should see this when the air filter housing has been dropped away from the top housing. The air filter itself may have stuck to the underside of the top housing like mine did so just pull it off and place to one side. I would suggest replacing it with a new filter whilst you are doing this as you will have to put it back in when you reassemble. Now just slide the air filter housing out of the engine bay so that you can continue. You will see this. Step 2 - Disconnect Electrical Connectors Disconnect the three electrical connectors as highlighted in red. The one to the left of the top housing is the actual throttle body connector. Once the one in the middle of the top housing is unplugged, make sure you gentle pull it out of the recess that the rest of the cable lies within and gently push it to one side out of the way. Do not just pull these connectors as they are made from plastic and will snap. They all have a small tab which needs to be depressed at the same time as gently pulling them. Do not pull them too hard as they do not need it. They will disconnect very easily if the tab is pressed whilst pulling them. Step 3 - Disconnect Breather Pipes/Hoses Disconnect the two breather hoses/pipes as highlighted in red. You will need to use a pair of pliers to release the retaining clips that hold the end of the pipes tightly sealed in place. Just squeeze the release arms on the retaining clips with the pliers and slide the retaining clips along the pipes until they are free of the housing connector. Now just gentle pull the hoses/pipes off the housing connectors. Again, you do not need to pull these hard. They should just slide off with a light pressure. Remove the centre hose from the recess in the top housing and push it out of the way. You should now see something like the image below. All electrical connectors have been disconnected and the hoses disconnected. I took this picture before I had moved the centre hose out of the way so you shouldn't have this in place at this stage. Next remove the breather hose mount, shown below, from the top housing. If you don't remove this you will not be able to remove the top housing completely if you leave the rear hose attached. Alternatively, you could leave it bolted on and just remove the other hose from it and then remove the top housing with the mount attached. I just unbolted it and pushed it out of the way so I didn't damage it. Once you've removed the mount then it should look like the image below. Just move it gently out of the way so that it doesn't interfere when you remove the top housing. Step 4 - Remove Top Housing You can now remove the top housing by simply removing the bolts highlighted in red in the below images. They are all 10 mm. Remove the three front bolts. Remove the two bolts on the left rear of the housing. Remove the two bolts on the right rear of the housing. Once the seven bolts have been removed you can simply pull the top of the housing up towards you and it should separate from the bottom section of the housing. Warning: Do not pull this top section up too hard. You should be able to just pull it up with a little force. The top section is attached to plastic manifold inlet pipes toward the rear and they are pretty much held on by O rings. Try to pull the top section of the housing up towards you in a straight motion. Try not to bend it as you pull it up. It should come off fairly easily. Warning: This top section actually contains the throttle body itself so take care. Do not just drop it to one side as you may damage the throttle body that you are about to clean - if you are not replacing the throttle body itself of course. You should now see the image below once the top section is removed. Step 5 - Remove Throttle Body From Top Housing Once you've pulled off the top housing turn it over to see the location of the throttle body. Simply remove the three bolts that are highlighted in red in the image below. They are 10mm so just use the same socket you used to remove the top housing bolts. Once you have removed the three bolts you can now remove the whole throttle body. The throttle body is now only held in by the top of the electrical connector on the outside of the top housing. It's a bit tight so just pull the throttle body towards you whilst wiggling it slightly as the rubber seal is a little tight. Don't put too much force as you might snap the plastic top housing. You should now see the housing like this once the throttle body has been removed. Step 6 - Clean The Throttle Body To clean the throttle body I used a small headed toothbrush, some clean rag and a good carb / throttle body cleaner. Warning: Carefully follow the instructions on the carb cleaner. Do this work in a well ventilated area, preferably outside and wear a suitable breathing mask. Take extreme care not to inhale the fumes from this cleaner or the dirt that it removes from the throttle body. I used the following carb cleaner which is available from a well known parts store for about £8. This was the state of my throttle body when I got it out. It was really clogged up and clearly sticking. Simply attach the small pipe to the can of carb cleaner and then spray into and around the inside of the intake of the throttle body and all over the butterfly valve. Then just brush the whole of the inside of the intake (front and back) and butterfly valve with the toothbrush and/or rag. The dirt should come off quite easily as the carb cleaner is really effective. Keep doing this until the intake and butterfly valve are as clean as you can get them. Keep wiping off any residue with a good clean rag as well as you do this. After about 10 minutes of cleaning I had a nice clean throttle body as shown below. Yours should look pretty similar when complete. Step 7 - Refit Your Throttle Body And Reassemble Other Parts Warning: Before refitting your cleaned throttle body you should ensure that the throttle body is dry and does not contain any residue from the cleaning agent. I left my throttle body to completely dry for about an hour or so just to be extra cautious before proceeding with refitting. Refitting your throttle body and reassembly is just really this guide in reverse from step 5 back to step 1. Warning: Take care when reattaching the top of the housing to the bottom and the intake pipes as they have O rings present. Ensure that they are correctly aligned before pushing the top housing down into place. Be careful not to pinch or tear the O rings. If it's tight to refit over the O rings then either replace the O rings or simply apply a small smear of engine oil around the O rings which should help refit the top housing. Warning: Do not over tighten the bolts that hold the throttle body in place or the top housing. Warning: Once you have reassembled everything it is a good idea to just double check that all the breather hoses are reattached and secured in place and that all the electrical connectors are attached securely. You should now be able to start the car and test accordingly. If this process has been successful then you should have a smoother throttle response and possibly more accurate. Mine stopped juddering at certain revs and seemed so much more responsive. I am also now getting much better fuel economy.