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Hmm, seems like someone had the issue before and a bodge was carried to rectify the issue (or at least attempt to rectify it). There is an issue with the timing chains and as far as I can see it was a recall from Nissan. It does suggest that it occurs on hard acceleration (e.g. from a slip-road) and if the chain is slack it can drift away from the timing point by a small fraction (much like a loose timing belt) which can then throw a code for cam/crank timing and result in what you are experiencing. I would personally replace the engine oil and look to see what has come out - e.g. metal particles and then replace it with the specified oil which may have not been supplied with previously. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/engine-oil-12094/nissan/pulsar/pulsar-hatchback-c13/107484-1-2-dig-t If you use a quality oil of the correct specifications (as listed in the link above) and see if that makes any difference to how it runs. If no real difference is noted then I would advise to get the timing chain replaced which will almost certainly make a difference if it is worn

I use a smart screen with Android Auto. Then connect my phone via BlueTooth and use Waze map. Less expensive and live updates of accidents, traffic jams etc.

I had the same problem radio cutting off there is a fee upgrade from nissan now work perfectly it's a common problem

Hello, I am joining this forum with hopes to be able to supply you guys with some hard to come by parts for your beloved Nissans, as the title states we are the second oldest Nissan dealer in the uk and we are looking to move some of our older parts that have been stored away for years. I will be doing a follow up post with our parts list which should have thousands of items for you guys to sift through at your leisure, I just wanted to test the waters to see how helpful this would be for you guys, any responses or comments appreciated. Kind regards, Oscar

Hi all! Im thinking of getting a Pathfinder in the next month or two. Wanted something bigger for going fishing/camping and always loved the look of the Pathfinder. Especially the older shape (07/08 models). Has anyone got a rot free one with upgraded timing chain they are thinking of parting with? Thanks in advance 🤘🏻🙂 Harry

Thats an odd one but I would start by peeling back the rubber gaiters running into the rear doors and check for any breaks in the wiring. After that, I would put a secondary earth to the earth connections on wiring and ensure that there is a decent earth to complete the circuit - let us know how you get on with it

Hello to everyone! I'm buying an x Trail e-power 4x4!

New to pathfinders. After doing some light modifications for a bit of off road use and was wondering what stealth winches people are using. Would like to keep the original bumper. Any guides about. Tia

used to see this with black electrical tape. does the job.

I know... so nothing. But, Thanks.

When I had this i thought it was a phone or car setting. Can't really remember but I did get it to stop by altering which ever setting it was.

i would say its a case for the ombudsmen and certainly run it past citizens advice to get some more guidance on pursuing a claim If unsuccesful then a secondhand engine (with the revised cooling system parts) may be the most financially advisable way forwards

Just taking a sec to say Hello, Just bought a Nissan Micra K12 1.2 2008 for my daughter.

oh very nice car ! Welcome to the forum and keep us updated on the progress

I got a good set of used tires (4) and put em on there. $85 for just mount and balance but that’s how it rolls. Wierdest experience ever leaving the tire shop. Truck was clattering along like one or more tires seriously out of balance. I was like dreading having to go back and force the issue(s). And then within a few miles at moderate speeds the clattering went away entirely and then smooth running. Like? But that works. They put double balance weights on each wheel. They have the push ins at the inside of the wheel at the tire. And they have glue ons inside the spokes to the outside of the tire. In three cases, the weights are pretty much opposite each other on the wheels! I never saw anything like that before. Like they balanced each wheel twice? This is a very experienced tire shop, for the record. 😯

Hi Mike, I have a completely stock 350z for sale. Are you still on the search for a well maintained one? thanks, Fred.

Hi Paul, thanks for reply. the files are mp3, so should all play. I am using a one of the newer sticks, USB-C, in case older sticks don’t work on the latest latest players. So everything is compatible. i will up date this saga after the visit to the dealer who is going to check player in the car.

Hi Trevor, Thank you for your input, anything helps at this point, much appreciated! All the best, Daniel

Thank you Trevor, much appreciated, I would consider putting bigger wheels on it, but looking at the lump it so much reminds me of the Terrano 2.7 lump, part of me wants to get hold of one to see id it fits! I have gone down that road years ago when younger, But I also recall those small differences which take a week each to conquer! I'm less patient than I used to be and ache quicker!👍

Hi there, I have a 1967 Nissan Patrol sitting in my shed. Originally the family car, then in recent times used as a fire fighting vehicle on acreage. Last three years not used at all.Original engine turns over (with a squirt of fuel into Carby) Odometer 98,000 miles. This would be a great project for an enthusiast but I don’t know where to start to advertise my vehicle or what value I should place on it. Can anyone offer any guidance? Thank you in anticipation.

Have a look at the offering from AutoCom as I think this may cover the ABS

Hi, same issue I had. Battery is fully charged. All the lights were on but not starting. I found this in another forum I followed the advice and I worked. Hope it’ll help 🙂 Thanks Jackyboy117’s advise : ‘I turned the ignition switch to the second point just before you start the engine, I then got out the car and disconnected the negative lead and replaced straight away. Now the car started to try and start but would only make the noise. I then had to shut all doors and bonnets, turn the engine off, lock the car with the key, open the car with the key, half turn the ignition and leave for 5 mins. Once the 5 mins is up turn off the car and straight away start.’

Hi - just bought my first Nissan ... a 2008 1.6 ltr Micra K12 cc Sport convertible in silver. 3 previous owners and 116k on the clock... it was a cat n insurance write off due to light damage to boot lid and rear bumper! It runs excellently, even the intelligent key works (well most of the time - lol!) ... and the roof works perfectly, so looking forward to the summer months! A few pics the 'Micra Machine' attached. Cheers Steve!

Hi Trevor ... thanks for your kind remarks! Yes, a month of ownership and no real disasters (yet 🤣) .... the keyless entry works 100% of the time but the keyless start is a bit erratic, often resulting in the emergency key being used .... I've replaced the batteries in the fobs and used WD 40 in the barrel .. but problem still exists ... any clues? .... also the replaced the front sidelight bulbs with LED bulbs and the nearside blows almost instantly ... mystery indeed! Cheers Steve

Important from South Africa Log book and paper work for sale please call 07432601196. Paul for anymore information white pick up 2door. Good condition Nissan Sunny with a hard. Top

Nissan note 2008 1.6 Petrol Having listened to my drive belt squealing like a strangled cat thought it best I changed it, car has done 140,000 on what I think was the original belt. First as it’s a 1.6 petrol it only has one belt, cheapest place was Halfords at £17. Next watched videos on how to change it, easy I thought, so set to work. Jacked up and on axle stand removed drivers side wheel then attacked the inner wing lining, lots of popper fittings and screws, lot of poppers broke on removal, made sure I had spares. Now I can see the drive belt, well cracked and shiny, slacked tensioner pulley bolt (13 mm) and removed the belt, easy. Checked out belt against new, all ok but could I get the new belt on, no way. Tried the tensioner pulley adjuster, this was a nightmare to get at as you cannot see it all touchy feelly, anyway the adjuster was rusted and not for moving, only option left was to remove the pulley. Cleaned it up and freed up adjuster, next challenge was to re fit the adjuster, which you have to do blind and you can only use one hand, after a lot of cursing I still couldn’t get the thing into position. Looked how to gain better access, remove the front grill and then get another pair of hands to hold the adjuster in place while I re fitted the pulley, easy. Put the new drive belt on and now with relatively easy access to the adjuster tensioned the belt. No more squealing, job took in total about three hours around two hours longer than needed. So before I do my wife’s car going to ensure the tensioner bolt is lubricated, was the main cause of the delay. Will also just remove the front grill and see if it can be changed without having to remove inner wheel arch liner. Hope my experience saves people time and effort.

Okay, I did what I should've done before posting a question, and checked the technical manual. It seems getting the cluster out is straight forward. Remove radio, remove temperature controls, remove cluster panel and then remove the gauge cluster. Nissan calls it a "combination meter" for whatever reason. I've attached the relevant page here if someone else comes across this topic in the future. I haven't found where mileage is stored, but I'm assuming in the cluster itself. I'm gonna order one with similar mileage. If mileage turns out to be recorded somewhere else that would be a bonus, but if not a few extra thousand miles on the odometer won't hurt and won't set off any alarm bells during the next MOT.

Hi all thought I’d drop in before placing my first post in the hope you can help

Will do I’m booked in for next Tuesday.

Hi Tim....welcome to the Club I really like the Murano, think they should have stuck with that shape for other model designs Feel free to jump in answering any questions (especially about Nissan parts) if you would like to? Good to have you onboard!

For sale Nissan D21 stoke on Trent

Have now bought a Qashqai e-power which is great but can anyone tell me why the power lever when pushed forward mades the car go backwards and when pushed back the car goes forward? I am only a simple sailor ( retired Marine Engineer) but it has me baffled..... Davidpincombe

Hi thanks for replying. The engine runs and am not really sure about misfiring or rough running. To a trained ear you would tell in seconds but i dont know much about them and couldnt tell. I will need to check the wiring etc get a ohms metre

It may be that the previous owner had the function switched off You could ask the dealer to reinstall the function via the scan tool but this would cost Chances are it has LED lighting, if not then I would fit a bulb with a reverse beeper built in https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1313&_nkw=reverse+light+bulb+with+beeper&_sacat=131090

We bought a nearly new Tekna 1.3 after a previous diesel Qashqai. . It was £27,000 NEW in 2018 We had problems with the child lock engaging when driving and unable to disengage. This was erratic and they replaced one under the warranty but as they couldn't witness the other one, they refused to repair. Eventually, we had to take a video when it (inevitably) occurred again and they agreed to fix it. We have recently had gear change problems when we try and change gear in the lower gears. We tried Nissan but they can't see us for two weeks so as it's out of warranty, we took it to our local garage who believe it is the slave cylinder and will immediately repair. It also takes a lot of revs to release the autobrake leading to dangerous situations driving off. But it only has 35,000 miles on it and we've NEVER had an issue with any other car like this so early on. As the original poster said, we haven't suddenly changed how we use the gears. And our VW which we have from new in 2017 still has lovely smooth gear changes. It seems Nissan are going the way of Peugeot and instead of producing good cars are now producing bad ones. This will be our last Nissan. 😟

It was the glow plug relay bought another one and everything seems fine now thanks

Hi Trevor, thanks for this. Ended up buying the car yesterday, 2.0L Qashqai+2 Acenta. Drives real smooth, lovely and quiet, decent power, overall, very happy with it. One thing my wife has ordered is a new gear know as the other has worn - are these easy to replace? Gear knobs of old simply screwed off, but this has the lift handle for reverse, and I'm wondering how much trouble this may cause?

I must’ve hit the kerb hard and knocked the back wheel out of place. Kwik Fit re-aligned the wheel and the message has disappeared. I will book it in at Nissan to check, because the wheel isn’t fully straight.

Thankyou Trevor.it has 13 inch steels on with a 175 75 profile I think but I've found a set of 14 inch alloys from a 90's nissan I think a 100nx?? And am going to have them resprayed and 4 new proxy tyres

Hi, I'm Matt, just recently bought myself a Mk5 Micra Tekna 0.9 I-GT. Have a few questions about performance and a few other things around the car so look forward to having your thoughts on these in another thread! Thanks Matt

Hi Jon....welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

Thanks for your advice Trevor. ill take a look.

Hi guys new here and just a show of my modified 350z sparky IMG_1606.MOV

You will need to take it on a long run (say around 20 miles or so) at a moderate speed but at high revs (not 5th or 6th gear) so that the pressure builds up to break up the collection of soot in both the EGR and DPF. Try to keep the speed and revs constant so motorway is probably best and later in the evening. Keep any eye on the engine temperature but it will go slightly higher whilst trying to purge the EGR/DPF. Also, it may be accompanied by a burning smell but this is part of the process. After you finish the run, allow the engine to cool down for a period. I would aim to give the car a run at least once a week to ensure the engine does not clog up in the future

Thanks Trevor. Will have a look but not sure about my soldering skills now due arthritis in fingers etc. Still if it turns out to be the problem sure I can find electrical repair shop to solder it.

Hi I have driven all sorts of vehicles cars bikes vans to articulated lorries. I have also driven electric vehicles before so it was not an issue, the issue was going to be around regular charging at home. My local and county council are stating the have no plans in the foreseeable future to install charging at the roadside in residential areas for people without access to off road parking. Their view is they want local residents to use public transport rather than their own vehicles so it looks like a backdoor way to force people out of having their own cars. I took the issue up with my local MP who also happens to be the secretary of state for transport. I had a dace to face meeting with him pointed out the councils proposed plans and informed him that 23% of the local vehicle owners were being prevented from taking up electric vehicle use. He appeared quite interested in the points I raised and said he would look at what action he could take to assist in the matter. Then some weeks latter like all good politicians he contacted me by email providing all the information and figures I had already given him indicating there was nothing he could do. I will now stay with an ICE vehicle for as long as I can before maybe then switching to hydrogen fuel cell vehicles if they materialise as they will be a better choice for people without access to off road parking.

Hi....welcome to the Club Two things come to mind... 1. Crankshaft Sensor which looks for rotation of the crankshaft which will signal the Engine Management System (EMS) and give the command to fuel and spark dependent on engine speed. If this is faulty (usually when hot and the resistance changes) then this can cut the engine and start when cooled down. 2. Throttle Body adaptation which is adjustable using a scan tool. A lot of times this comes down to carbon build up and benefits from cleaning which gives a constant smooth idle speed A scan of the EMS should give stored fault codes which lead to a more precise diagnosis Let us know how you get on with it all

I've just got off the phone to Nissan (Colebrook way, Andover) they've advised me to take it back to the garage that fit the head gasket and check that they've plugged the sensor in properly. I've basically got to start at the beginning and work out the problem. On a positive note the sensor light stayed off for the mot and passed today 🙌 booked in next Friday (once I'm out of isolation). Fingers crossed its something so simple 🤞

Sadly not! We had to pay the cost of replacement Clutch of £1800 plus an AA report of £200. The AA sent ACE (Automotive Consulting Engineers Ltd) to carry out the inspection which concluded that the Clutch had over heated which caused the failure. No suggestion as to cause other than abuse and referred to Towing in the report which did not mention that there is not a Tow Bar on the car! The report appeared to me to have a large element of "cut and paste" about it. I tried to contact ACE for more details of the inspection but they did not respond I contacted Nissan and asked if they could Inspect the components and the Dual Mass Fly Wheel, they declined and suggested I look on the Internet to find someone to inspect it but could not suggest anyone. The Nissan "Adviser" declined to discuss the matter any further with me and refused to put through to a Manager. We reject the suggestion that we "ride" the clutch as there is adequate spec by the clutch pedal to rest the foot and we have suddenly become bad drivers. I took legal advise and my Solicitor advised that we could become involved in a costly dispute. We are left with a car that my wife is reluctant to drive as she has lost faith in it. We ask ourselves three questions. Would we buy another Nissan, would we recommend a friend to buy a Nissan and are we satisfied with Nissan's Customer Care? NO, NO, ABSOLUTELY NOT.

Nissan Micra K12 Throttle Body Removal and Clean Welcome to this guide on how to remove and clean the throttle body on a Nissan Micra K12. This procedure was done on a 1.2 2003 petrol model. As I couldn't find a good tutorial on this process I thought I would have a go myself and then put together this guide for other people. The process is actually relatively straight forward once you know how. I was experiencing juddering at certain points on the rev range and when the car was in a certain gear, MPG had decreased plus some hunting when the car was idle. So I decided that I would clean the throttle body to see if that would help. I actually didn't know exactly where the throttle body was located on this model. It's actually located under the air intake box/top manifolds which are shown below. It's actually located inside and under the top of the plastic manifold housing. Once you have removed the throttle body you will realise that it's actually connected to one of the electrical connections on the top of the housing that you will need to disconnect as part of this process. Throttle body location This is where the throttle body is location on a 2003 1.2 petrol Nissan Micra K12. Tools required This is a list of tools and other items required to get to the throttle body, remove it from the housing and then clean it: Pliers or grips 10 mm socket Ratchet Toothbrush or cotton buds and an old but clean cloth A good carb/throttle body cleaner The process So here are the steps. Step 1 - Remove the air intake and air filter box Remove the air intake pipe (highlighted by the red arrow) by removing the plastic lugs that hold it to the front of the engine bay and then remove the other end from the air filter housing on the right. I had to slightly twist mine and then gave it a hard pull to detach it. Then remove the air filter housing from the manifold housing. Do this by unclipping the metal retaining clips (highlighted in blue in the image below) located on the front and the right side of the housing. There are only two clips that hold this in place. They simply unclip upwards and one remains connected to the top housing and the other remains connected to the air filter box. Once you have unclipped the air filter housing the front of it may drop away from you. It should not fall off completely as the back is held in place by the box being slid into holders in the back of the top housing. To remove the air filter box simply push the front down and when it's at a certain point pull the air filter housing towards you. This will pull it out of the rear mounts. Try to look at the rears mounts when you do this so that you can be sure you pushed it down enough to be able to pull it forward without snapping the plastic mounts on the back of the top housing. You should see this when the air filter housing has been dropped away from the top housing. The air filter itself may have stuck to the underside of the top housing like mine did so just pull it off and place to one side. I would suggest replacing it with a new filter whilst you are doing this as you will have to put it back in when you reassemble. Now just slide the air filter housing out of the engine bay so that you can continue. You will see this. Step 2 - Disconnect Electrical Connectors Disconnect the three electrical connectors as highlighted in red. The one to the left of the top housing is the actual throttle body connector. Once the one in the middle of the top housing is unplugged, make sure you gentle pull it out of the recess that the rest of the cable lies within and gently push it to one side out of the way. Do not just pull these connectors as they are made from plastic and will snap. They all have a small tab which needs to be depressed at the same time as gently pulling them. Do not pull them too hard as they do not need it. They will disconnect very easily if the tab is pressed whilst pulling them. Step 3 - Disconnect Breather Pipes/Hoses Disconnect the two breather hoses/pipes as highlighted in red. You will need to use a pair of pliers to release the retaining clips that hold the end of the pipes tightly sealed in place. Just squeeze the release arms on the retaining clips with the pliers and slide the retaining clips along the pipes until they are free of the housing connector. Now just gentle pull the hoses/pipes off the housing connectors. Again, you do not need to pull these hard. They should just slide off with a light pressure. Remove the centre hose from the recess in the top housing and push it out of the way. You should now see something like the image below. All electrical connectors have been disconnected and the hoses disconnected. I took this picture before I had moved the centre hose out of the way so you shouldn't have this in place at this stage. Next remove the breather hose mount, shown below, from the top housing. If you don't remove this you will not be able to remove the top housing completely if you leave the rear hose attached. Alternatively, you could leave it bolted on and just remove the other hose from it and then remove the top housing with the mount attached. I just unbolted it and pushed it out of the way so I didn't damage it. Once you've removed the mount then it should look like the image below. Just move it gently out of the way so that it doesn't interfere when you remove the top housing. Step 4 - Remove Top Housing You can now remove the top housing by simply removing the bolts highlighted in red in the below images. They are all 10 mm. Remove the three front bolts. Remove the two bolts on the left rear of the housing. Remove the two bolts on the right rear of the housing. Once the seven bolts have been removed you can simply pull the top of the housing up towards you and it should separate from the bottom section of the housing. Warning: Do not pull this top section up too hard. You should be able to just pull it up with a little force. The top section is attached to plastic manifold inlet pipes toward the rear and they are pretty much held on by O rings. Try to pull the top section of the housing up towards you in a straight motion. Try not to bend it as you pull it up. It should come off fairly easily. Warning: This top section actually contains the throttle body itself so take care. Do not just drop it to one side as you may damage the throttle body that you are about to clean - if you are not replacing the throttle body itself of course. You should now see the image below once the top section is removed. Step 5 - Remove Throttle Body From Top Housing Once you've pulled off the top housing turn it over to see the location of the throttle body. Simply remove the three bolts that are highlighted in red in the image below. They are 10mm so just use the same socket you used to remove the top housing bolts. Once you have removed the three bolts you can now remove the whole throttle body. The throttle body is now only held in by the top of the electrical connector on the outside of the top housing. It's a bit tight so just pull the throttle body towards you whilst wiggling it slightly as the rubber seal is a little tight. Don't put too much force as you might snap the plastic top housing. You should now see the housing like this once the throttle body has been removed. Step 6 - Clean The Throttle Body To clean the throttle body I used a small headed toothbrush, some clean rag and a good carb / throttle body cleaner. Warning: Carefully follow the instructions on the carb cleaner. Do this work in a well ventilated area, preferably outside and wear a suitable breathing mask. Take extreme care not to inhale the fumes from this cleaner or the dirt that it removes from the throttle body. I used the following carb cleaner which is available from a well known parts store for about £8. This was the state of my throttle body when I got it out. It was really clogged up and clearly sticking. Simply attach the small pipe to the can of carb cleaner and then spray into and around the inside of the intake of the throttle body and all over the butterfly valve. Then just brush the whole of the inside of the intake (front and back) and butterfly valve with the toothbrush and/or rag. The dirt should come off quite easily as the carb cleaner is really effective. Keep doing this until the intake and butterfly valve are as clean as you can get them. Keep wiping off any residue with a good clean rag as well as you do this. After about 10 minutes of cleaning I had a nice clean throttle body as shown below. Yours should look pretty similar when complete. Step 7 - Refit Your Throttle Body And Reassemble Other Parts Warning: Before refitting your cleaned throttle body you should ensure that the throttle body is dry and does not contain any residue from the cleaning agent. I left my throttle body to completely dry for about an hour or so just to be extra cautious before proceeding with refitting. Refitting your throttle body and reassembly is just really this guide in reverse from step 5 back to step 1. Warning: Take care when reattaching the top of the housing to the bottom and the intake pipes as they have O rings present. Ensure that they are correctly aligned before pushing the top housing down into place. Be careful not to pinch or tear the O rings. If it's tight to refit over the O rings then either replace the O rings or simply apply a small smear of engine oil around the O rings which should help refit the top housing. Warning: Do not over tighten the bolts that hold the throttle body in place or the top housing. Warning: Once you have reassembled everything it is a good idea to just double check that all the breather hoses are reattached and secured in place and that all the electrical connectors are attached securely. You should now be able to start the car and test accordingly. If this process has been successful then you should have a smoother throttle response and possibly more accurate. Mine stopped juddering at certain revs and seemed so much more responsive. I am also now getting much better fuel economy.