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Hmm, seems like someone had the issue before and a bodge was carried to rectify the issue (or at least attempt to rectify it). There is an issue with the timing chains and as far as I can see it was a recall from Nissan. It does suggest that it occurs on hard acceleration (e.g. from a slip-road) and if the chain is slack it can drift away from the timing point by a small fraction (much like a loose timing belt) which can then throw a code for cam/crank timing and result in what you are experiencing. I would personally replace the engine oil and look to see what has come out - e.g. metal particles and then replace it with the specified oil which may have not been supplied with previously. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/engine-oil-12094/nissan/pulsar/pulsar-hatchback-c13/107484-1-2-dig-t If you use a quality oil of the correct specifications (as listed in the link above) and see if that makes any difference to how it runs. If no real difference is noted then I would advise to get the timing chain replaced which will almost certainly make a difference if it is worn

I use a smart screen with Android Auto. Then connect my phone via BlueTooth and use Waze map. Less expensive and live updates of accidents, traffic jams etc.

I had the same problem radio cutting off there is a fee upgrade from nissan now work perfectly it's a common problem

Hello, I am joining this forum with hopes to be able to supply you guys with some hard to come by parts for your beloved Nissans, as the title states we are the second oldest Nissan dealer in the uk and we are looking to move some of our older parts that have been stored away for years. I will be doing a follow up post with our parts list which should have thousands of items for you guys to sift through at your leisure, I just wanted to test the waters to see how helpful this would be for you guys, any responses or comments appreciated. Kind regards, Oscar

Hi all! Im thinking of getting a Pathfinder in the next month or two. Wanted something bigger for going fishing/camping and always loved the look of the Pathfinder. Especially the older shape (07/08 models). Has anyone got a rot free one with upgraded timing chain they are thinking of parting with? Thanks in advance 🤘🏻🙂 Harry

I would say it is the anti-roll bar drop links that are failing - replaced some a little while ago and they put up a fight so be prepared to spend quite a bit of time grinding them off. Also, check the coil springs are not snapped and that the dampers are not leaking

Its such a scam and see it all the time - easy money for the garages. It is possible to fit replacement rubbers if all they are is perished. As long as they are not perforated and leaking grease or if there is any play in the joints then it is perfectly serviceable. Advise on the MOT sheet but not necessary to replace otherwise. Recently fitted a replacement lower arm on wife's Juke and then replaced it a year later as the first (cheaper one) knocked the joint out in no time - more expensive one, quite a bit heavier duty for the N/S location and almost twice the weight. An easy job to carry out yourself and definitely not £1200 worth of repairs. Kept the old rubbers to use if necessary in the future. :-)

I'm sure you will keep finding bodges throughout the car and maybe worthwhile assuming everything needs checking and just work your way through it. If you are lucky you may find the issue which is causing the problems and may not cost you much if anything at all to resolve Let us know how you get on with it

Thanks all - found out extra security not needed. Closed topic

Not on late models as it an EU requirement as I understand it. Mine is set up with a shortcut to turn audio warning off by pressing control switch and Okay.

Thanks for the tip, I will check them out. Cheers.

Nissan are looking into my new car that was not giving the advertised range of 759 miles on delivery as they said it should (only giving 660 a 100 mile discrepancy. Car delivered with full fuel tank and only delivery mileage of 10 miles). second tank fill still only 660 range. Awaiting their investigation!

Hallo den habe ich erfolgreich eingebaut: L7808 Spannungsregler 8V DC gruss Michael

its amazing how powerful the media can be in resolving such issues with manufacturers - keep trying as you may get a good outcome

Thanks bloke, nice to be welcomed and pleased to be standing 😉 I haven't even looked through your forum but I'm guessing you're a street car forum,?.. I'm 4x4, although I did own a Datsun "shovel nose" back in the day 🙂 know a little of the early KA series... but I'm here looking for information on differentials.. C200 in the Nissan Navaras in Aust..

I wasn’t planning on buying a Nissan Leaf. I was only vaguely aware it was an option. We had been contemplating a fully electric car for a while, but were torn between a smaller vehicle and a larger one with a significant towing capacity. It was a toss-up between a Tesla Model Y as the larger option or something else as the smaller option, but we didn’t know what the something else would be. We stumbled into the local Nissan dealer while out window-shopping for cars recently, and they showed us three used Nissan Leafs they had in stock. After many questions with the dealer and a test drive, we bought the 2020 Nissan Leaf Tekna 40 kWh, subject to financing. I spent the next few days researching all I could about the car and organising financing and insurance. A week after the initial test drive, we drove the shiny new toy off the lot and took it home. This is our first fully electric vehicle. I previously had a non-plugin hybrid, so I was familiar with regenerative braking. However, driving a fully electric car is a different experience, so there would be a learning curve. The first and most apparent difference in the driving experience is the buttery smooth transition between accelerating and decelerating and the equally jolt-free transition from stationary to moving and from moving to stationary. Pulling up to a traffic light or otherwise coming to a complete stop is smooth, with no engine vibration, no jolt from a change in gears, etc. It’s an absolute joy to drive. The Nissan Leaf has an ePedal feature. This feature must be manually engaged when you start the car using a pull switch in the centre console near the gear stick. When engaged, the car maximises regenerative braking. Usually, when you press a car’s brake pedal, the car’s forward momentum is arrested as brake pads heat up through friction. All the car’s forward momentum energy is transferred to the brake pads' heating, so it’s lost as heat energy. When you lift your foot from the accelerator while the ePedal feature is engaged, the Leaf’s motor instantly becomes a generator. This happens each time the car slows down while driving, which can be quite often if you are in the city or the journey is primarily stop and go. All the car’s forward momentum is captured as energy used to charge the battery for as long as you’re braking. The transition from motor (using energy from the battery) to generator (putting energy into the battery) is instant and seamless. The more stop and go and braking (lifting your foot from the accelerator), the more energy is reclaimed and put back into the battery. Where the difference in driving experience is noticeable between the Leaf and a regular ICE (Internal Combustion Engine) car, is that the braking effect from just lifting your foot off the accelerator is considerably more acute – especially when ePedal is engaged. In other words, the car slows down much faster than you might otherwise expect. It takes a bit of getting used to. I love the ePedal, but my wife doesn’t. I do have to remember to engage the ePedal feature each time. Sometimes I forget, and then engage it after I’ve started moving the car, such as reversing out of the garage. The car then almost immediately comes to a complete stop due to the braking effect, so I’m still getting used to this. Range anxiety, or the fear of running out of battery charge at inconvenient times, is a genuine concern. Although the fear is real, we’ve not encountered any actual issues in practice. The car has three charging options, each associated with one of two different charging connectors under the small flap in front of the bonnet. When unlatched, either by pressing the button on the key fob or the button on a panel to the left of the steering wheel, the flap can be raised to reveal the two charging ports. The one on the left is the CHAdeMO charging port for fast charging (up to 50 kW). When at a fast charging station, you connect the cable physically and permanently attached to the charge pole into this slot. The charging port on the right side is for AC charging. Two cables come with the car for use with this slower AC charging port. One has a regular household plug on the end, which you use to plug the car in at home. That will give you a trickle charge (2.3 kW) which is relatively slow and typically requires the car to be plugged in overnight to charge the battery fully from near empty. The other is for charging faster at paid locations while out and about (6.6 kW). It’s slower than the CHAdeMO fast charger but fast enough to give you a decent charge after a couple of hours, such as while out shopping or at a restaurant. The CHAdeMO charger could take me from 15% to 80% in about half an hour. While researching the car, before I had paid for it, I learned that getting a battery SOH (State Of Health) report was prudent. Fortunately, the Nissan dealer accommodated this request and provided me with the report. In my case, the report showed the battery was still at 100% health. If the battery health deteriorates below a certain threshold after a certain period, the warranty kicks in and you can have the battery replaced under the warranty. As my Leaf is only 5 years old and came with just 18,500 KM, I did not expect any significant degradation. Using a dongle and a smartphone app called LeafSpy, you can extract detailed telemetry from the car, which provides much more in-depth insights into the vehicle’s usage, battery charging history, etc. I have yet to dive into that. The two charging cables that come with the car are heavy duty, and not the easiest to fold away tidily into the pocket on the inside of the boot. Life with a fully electric car now involves the logistics of managing these cables, taking them out and wrapping them away again after each charge session, etc. We’ve left the AC charger with the household plug permanently plugged in to a socket in the garage, so it’s always conveniently placed to plug in when the car is in the garage. However, it only just reaches. The cable is 5m long. The car itself is 4.5m long. Using extension cords is ill advised for various reasons, so having a plug socket adjacent to where the car is parked while charging is a consideration. You can find out how much charge the battery has at any point from the dashboard while the car is turned on, but there is also a Nissan smartphone app called NissanConnect EV, which you can use to access that information remotely. The car periodically communicates charging telemetry with Nissan’s computing cloud. The app then reads that data from the cloud to provide you updates. We’ve found this slow and the app somewhat buggy and limited. There’s another app called My Leaf. That’s marginally better but still quite slow to refresh and display updated information. With both apps, the information is never immediately at your fingertips – there’s always an annoying delay getting the refreshed data. Our experience with charging while out and about has been a little hit and miss. Our local McDonald’s has a charging pole from Vattenfall. There are two bays and three charging cable types. I’ve attempted to use it twice. Both times I’ve been able to park and hook up, but one time there was a message on the screen indicating there was no power available. I called the number listed and spoke to a real person, but they said they could do nothing since it was outside of regular office hours. The other time it worked perfectly, and I charged from 15% to 80% by the time I finished my meal. Fortunately, my employer provides free charging for electric vehicles. I’ve been able to charge my vehicle to 100% each time I’ve parked at the office, even when I only worked for a half-day. There are dozens of charging networks around the country and Europe. This means you might individually need to subscribe to each network to access their charging locations, which can be quite a hassle. I decided to take out a charge subscription with the ANWB, which affords me access to a wide range of chargers around the country and Europe. Although this doesn’t grant me access to every charge location, it covers a very wide range, and their app helps me identify locations, how many bays are available, what charge connection types are supported, how much it costs to charge there, etc. Being a relatively new car, at just 5 years old, it’s in very good condition. There are no dings or dents and it looks and feels as new. That said, we did have the red airbag warning light come on after a few days. The car is now booked in for a warranty repair of whatever that problem is. Otherwise, we can find no issues with the car. The car feels less spacious inside than other cars we’ve owned (our Citroen Picasso and Renault Megane were both larger vehicles on the inside). Somehow, I feel a little more enclosed in the Leaf. There is less space in the front seats than I would like. I’ve taken to placing a small towel between my right leg and the center console, as my right leg rests against the center console’s hard plastic otherwise, and it can feel a little uncomfortable after a while. After starting the car, I plug in my iPhone to use Apple’s Car Play in-car system. There’s nothing wrong with Nissan’s own in-car system, which seems nicely laid out and easy to use. I’ve just become accustomed to using Car Play in other vehicles and like it. My only gripe is that it can take up to thirty seconds after switching on and plugging the USB cable into the iPhone before the Car Play interface loads and starts. That might not sound like much but that’s about 25 seconds after I wanted to drive away already, and the delay this causes is often inconvenient. I don’t want to have to operate the touchscreen after I’ve started moving, for obvious reasons. One of the Leaf Tekna's really cool features is its 360-degree camera vision. When the camera is engaged (automatically while in reverse or otherwise when pressing a button), the views from the various cameras are stitched together to depict a top-down view of the car so that you can see all around it. This ensures you don’t bump into anything when manoeuvring the car around tight spaces, and it gives you more peace of mind and confidence while reversing. The Leaf's primary fast-charging port is the CHAdeMO port. However, this standard is outgoing and being replaced by the CCS (Combined Charging System) standard. As the CCS standard slowly takes over, fewer fast chargers will have CHAdeMO. Eventually, it will be necessary to get an adapter. Currently, there are a few adapters on the market, but it is early days and they are expensive, ranging anywhere from €750 to €1100. Having an adapter will open up a lot more charging options for the Leaf, but I expect the prices to come down over time as more adapters become available and economies of scale kick in. Other nice features of the Leaf are the adaptive cruise control and lane assist. Adaptive cruise control means you can set a speed and the car will automatically adjust up and down (without going over) as required depending on whether traffic is ahead of you. If traffic in front slows down, so will the Leaf. When the traffic ahead speeds up, so will the Leaf. The lane assist will keep the Leaf in lane even during light turns. Technically, you can take your hands off the wheel, and the car will still steer itself. There are limitations. It doesn’t work for anything other than a slight bend in the road, and the system will warn you if it detects you’ve let go of the steering wheel for over a few seconds. While engaged, the cruise control warns you if you get too close to, or go over, the white road line markings. It grabs your attention with audible and physical alerts. You hear what sounds like a car horn and the steering wheel vibrates simultaneously. Nissan got this just right. Together, these warning signals grab your attention but are not so shocking as to scare the wits out of you. We have noticed that the indicated range at the start of any journey is much more optimistic than what we get in practice. When leaving my office with 100% battery charge, the car indicates a range of 255 KM. After driving 40 KM to my home, the range is indicated to be around 190 KM. Despite only driving 40 KM, the indicated range reduced by as much as 65 KM. Much of my drive home is on the motorway, where there is limited scope for capturing regenerative braking energy, but it still feels like we’re getting less than what’s promised – especially on longer trips. There is a touchscreen LCD display, but I find the resolution to be average at best. It could benefit from having a better resolution, not to mention a slightly higher placement on the dash, so we’re not having to look down at it so much. Even though the Tekna is the more premium version of the Leaf, it doesn’t have electrically operated seat adjustments for the passenger and driver seats. I really miss that. It does have a very good sound system, which we really like. That said, the Bose base unit in the boot does seem to take up some boot space. Also a missing feature is an automatic boot operation. My wife misses that feature also. Overall, we’re very happy with our 5-year-old 2020 Nissan Leaf Tekna 40 kWh. The positives outweigh the negatives by quite some margin. The car is delightful to drive. We’re thrilled with the purchase and have made a relatively seamless transition to fully electric driving.

Thanks Trevor on further investigation we have found similar fault on other Vehicle's and it was found to be Evaporative sensor ( Ambient Thermostat) have one on order but nil stock Australia due in a couple weeks I will post the result

Thanks for that Trevor. I have now stripped it all down to basics and confirmed that: there is definitely full voltage on some of the connector pins, that the linkages are moving nicely (a touch of oil helped) and the motor is not interested in doing anything (not even with the linkages disconnected). I have now ordered a motor which I should get by Sunday.... I will let you know how it goes. Many thanks, Dave

Hi everyone, I'm Ian, currently living in Norfolk. My wife died recently, leaving me with an NX100 coupe. She bought it new in Brunei in 1992 and imported it the same year, so I guess you could call it one lady owner from new. As I already have two other cars, I would like to see it go to a good home, so if anyone is interested out there, please let me know. Stay safe Ian

Thanks - I got a new primer pump and it didn't help at all. I could try a new filter, but I did change that one recently.

The gravity sensor is built into the controller box on the back of the abs pump

A pic🙂

My nearside wing mirror smashed against a badly parked white van's mirror. The body of the mirror is fine but no glass! Any ideas? Like in Ian's case, one lady owner from new 31st July 1995. EMMA

Hi again, i have found the culprit! before replacing the fuel filter i gave the hoses another check over, turns out the boost pressure hose has a big split in it around 2 inch in length! I have a new one on order. For now, i taped around the hose to “bodge” it and straight away the difference in pulling power was night and day!.. a big puff of black smoke and off she went! A fresh MOT and the family wagon is back on the road. 👏

Definitely do a fuel filter change and see how it goes then.....keep us updated

I am a newbie here and have a '85 300ZX (see pic) that I am trying to find maintenance for in San Antonio,TX. I would like to find a reliable maintenance shop for regular support as well as when it needs more in-depth attention. Does anyone have a suggestion or two? Thanks.

You can pop to Halfords and get some universal coolant (pre-mixed to the correct quantity) and top up the tank However, there should be a min-max markings on the tank and should be topped to just below max when the engine is cold

Now that could be both suspension or brakes Brakes is more like a clicking noise if the pads are moving in the carrier but if the caliper is loose then this will also make a noise Check the caliper is firmly secured it will flop around and you will hear a clunking noise if not If you place a wheel wrench on the wheel nut and move the car backwards and fowards with it that should narrow down the are of the noise

Engine fault light and lane departure light apparently due to loose battery connection. Driver’s side mirror when reversing still not fixed still points upwards instead of down.

hi guys, Collecting a 2005 Nissan Murano Thursday. Ex nissan parts manager, so have always had a soft spot for Nissan, a few models in particular. Hopefully looking forward to getting involved, without having to ask for to much tech advice! My last Nissan was a few years ago, a Juke, and a few years before that a QX A32(i think that was the model?) thanks Tim

Welcome to the Club

I will definitely check all of the points of ground connection, and make sure that all BCM connections are secure and dry. Thank you for that insight. I was researching where the BCM is located, and it appears to be behind the instrument panel. Is that correct?

Nissan fixed it under warranty.

Thankyou.shes got wheels now! I am trying to keep it as period as possible

Well this is its " I've saved it from the previous owner" look lol. But there are a few bits needed to get it how I want it

Hi, new to forum. I've just bought a 72 plate nsport and am wondering if anyone can suggest a reliable wireless phone charger that works with an android phone and fits nice in front of the changer where the USB slot is Thanks in advance

Hi any advice tips for this model just purchased August 2022 Scotland. I am always willing to give a go simple small Car owner maintenance weekly jobs but due disability strictly no DIY or heavy lifting Spinal problems. Positively driving this Car first time ever today it fitted like a glove never had any Car like that and after nearly a year of not having a car great! I could sing notes hah!

A 2000 Nissan Sunny saved our life in a rear impact crash 80 miles per hour whilst staionary in a queue hit 4 timesi understand because of rear bulkheads being strong and protecting the Petrol Tank area.

Hi all new member here i am looking at getting a Nissan highway star and cant find the right sub to post it in in here.. someone point me in the right direction please.. never owned a Nissan before so looking forward to speaking to you all.

I would recommend getting something like a silicon hose which would be stronger and cheap to buy by the length Try Demon Tweeks as they have a good range of hoses

Hi Trevor, thanks for your response! That gives me a bit more confidence that its just going to be a bit of a learning curve

Hello, I believe if you put the town in that box, rather than the postcode, it will then let you input the road and then the door number in the other boxes. I hope this helps.

Hi Trevor, thank you very much for the reply I am going to order a new push start button with the outer ring today that I mentioned in my first post after its arrived and installed I will update and let you know how I got on with it.

Hi there I have a 1988 nissan bluebird lx 1.6 for sale. The car has been garaged for the last 31 years (up to January 2021) and is mot'd until November 2022. I've been passed this vehicle from my gran who looked after it very well but she no longer drives. I'm looking to sell at around £1300/£1400 but will consider any sensible offers in this region. Photos attached. Please contact me on 07837 232737 or by email at lawrence.cormacey@gmail.com

Yes Trevor we will there is a place and they have different lengths I'll find the web site over weekend

Hi All, I naively bought a 1.6 16 plate Tekna Juke Diesel (55k Mileage) May of last year for what I thought I would need to commute to work, however working from home meant I did not need to do that. I live in the city and don't travel very often and so I've had problems with needing a new DPF , and now a clogged EGR valve and sensor, requiring a new one. Which has cost me alot of money i'd rather not spend if possible to avoid. This was my first proper car so was unaware that short distance/city driving is not ideal for a Diesel and the build up is likely my start/stop driving and short distance journeys. I've read that taking it out on the motorway every now and then is required to get it heated up and clear the carbon or whatever out from there, but can't find a rough estimate of time frame so was looking for some advice on that. TLDR: How often would you recommend taking it out to get it to high rev/high speed/high heat to keep the DPF and EGR clean? Weekly? Fortnightly? Monthly? Please also feel free to correct me if what i've read is inaccurate. Thanks

Hello, Just found this page. I have a 1985 1800 SGL. I have owned the vehicle from new. I have every service record MOT etc. The car was in practical classic about 5 years ago. Never been rebuilt or sprayed all original. Runs like a dream. Cheers Paul.

I would start with the grease, clean it from the reluctor ring and go from there

Thanks Trevor, I feel the same, it's still under Warranty and I've since found out they can be re-calibrated for free so I'm going to pop into my local Nissan. I'll keep you posted with result 🙂

Hi, not had chance to really look yet, what with work and crappy weather, will post when I do, thanks m8