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Hmm, seems like someone had the issue before and a bodge was carried to rectify the issue (or at least attempt to rectify it). There is an issue with the timing chains and as far as I can see it was a recall from Nissan. It does suggest that it occurs on hard acceleration (e.g. from a slip-road) and if the chain is slack it can drift away from the timing point by a small fraction (much like a loose timing belt) which can then throw a code for cam/crank timing and result in what you are experiencing. I would personally replace the engine oil and look to see what has come out - e.g. metal particles and then replace it with the specified oil which may have not been supplied with previously. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/engine-oil-12094/nissan/pulsar/pulsar-hatchback-c13/107484-1-2-dig-t If you use a quality oil of the correct specifications (as listed in the link above) and see if that makes any difference to how it runs. If no real difference is noted then I would advise to get the timing chain replaced which will almost certainly make a difference if it is worn

I use a smart screen with Android Auto. Then connect my phone via BlueTooth and use Waze map. Less expensive and live updates of accidents, traffic jams etc.

I had the same problem radio cutting off there is a fee upgrade from nissan now work perfectly it's a common problem

Hello, I am joining this forum with hopes to be able to supply you guys with some hard to come by parts for your beloved Nissans, as the title states we are the second oldest Nissan dealer in the uk and we are looking to move some of our older parts that have been stored away for years. I will be doing a follow up post with our parts list which should have thousands of items for you guys to sift through at your leisure, I just wanted to test the waters to see how helpful this would be for you guys, any responses or comments appreciated. Kind regards, Oscar

Hi all! Im thinking of getting a Pathfinder in the next month or two. Wanted something bigger for going fishing/camping and always loved the look of the Pathfinder. Especially the older shape (07/08 models). Has anyone got a rot free one with upgraded timing chain they are thinking of parting with? Thanks in advance 🤘🏻🙂 Harry

I know... so nothing. But, Thanks.

Thanks for your response, after i posted this, I took the car back to the mechanic to have the fault codes checked and none showed up. However, i decided to risk it and drive from Dublin to Longford, during the way for about 10 seconds two seperate time I noticed it struggling continuously and thats when the CEL came on flashing but after I changed speed it smoothed out and the CEL went away immediately. I let it rest for the night, this morning I decided to check for any fitting errors. I found that the air intake duct/snorkel was not properly fitted in the front, so it would've been sucking in the warm air of the engine bay which could cause the engine to struggle under stress. Though as far as I'm aware, this wouldn't cause misfires or CEL but this points towards the previous owner or his mechanic being very rough with their work. (This car has had the internal speakers, headlamps replaced, wiring damaged, connector damaged and incorrectly replaced spark plugs, so someone has been frequently toying with the internals) And this prompted me to check other fittings. The intercooler pipe(?) (image attached below had some issues which I don't know if they could be a clue or not. The right rubber part attaches securely to the middle plastic bit, its nice and tight, however, at the other end of this rubber bit (the far right of the picture, where it would connect to the intercooler) there is a bit of give. I can wiggle it a little. Then the shorter rubber tube (at the left of this image, which goes behind the engine, so I'm guessing connects to the turbo) had slight greasy residue where it connects to the middle plastic bit. Sorry for the word vomit, am I on to something? How did the mechanic even miss that the air intake duct wasn't seated correctly, and surely if they just ran their hand along the rubber tubing here they would've noticed the grease.

Okey! I’ll try and see if it helps. Maybe with some cleaning additive in the fuel?

I would normally agree with you regarding the engine being run in but if a previous owner just took it to the shops once a week or crawled through traffic in urban areas the engine would not necessarily be run in correctly (many diesel engines with high mileage can be stripped down and still find the honing marks scored into the bores....suggesting that the engine has not been run in correctly). I have torn down engines with just 21k miles and found the bores to be completely worn but equally I have found engines with over 100k miles to still be as fresh as the day it was built. It all depends on how it has been driven. Another example is a BMW R1200GS motorbike I had for many years. When I bought it, it was consuming quite a lot of engine oil, I changed the grade but it didn't like it (just yet). The bike had only covered 24k miles but it was sluggish and didn't respond as it should. I rode the bike hard (as it should be ridden) with high revs in each gear and eventually it was a completely different bike. No longer did it consume oil but I could happily change the oil grade accordingly. The long and short of it is that it was not run in correctly and I managed to change that by riding it hard for a period of time. Most diesel engines are not revved hard enough to burn off carbon (which could be gumming up the rings into the piston and not sealing in the cylinder efficiently, blocked EGR, blocked DPF, etc. All they usually need is an 'Italian Tune-up' to keep it all clean. Moral of this lengthy reply is - if it is consuming oil between services then I would consider that my theory is correct. Also try a cylinder leak-down test which will show exactly which cylinder or valves have pressure leaking past them. Very easy test with visible and audible results

Nissan are looking into my new car that was not giving the advertised range of 759 miles on delivery as they said it should (only giving 660 a 100 mile discrepancy. Car delivered with full fuel tank and only delivery mileage of 10 miles). second tank fill still only 660 range. Awaiting their investigation!

its amazing how powerful the media can be in resolving such issues with manufacturers - keep trying as you may get a good outcome

Hi , have just joined so I can find out more about my 1991 Nissan Coupe. Its an import but would love to know if any others exist in the UK? Or indeed Europe .Nissan CoupeNissan Coupe Hope the link works but if not its in Yellow Pearl and is the same as that in the Nissan Heritage museum. Thanks in anticipation

I had 3 Datsun Sunnys. Two Micra's and now own a Bluebird that i reluenctly want to sell

My Adblue light came on just before Christmas, it jumped from 1500 miles to 750 miles to 384 miles within seconds. I filled up but the light remained on and did not reset. I put some specialist cleaner in the Adblue tank to clear any crystallisation that may have taken place. That did not resolve it. It has therefore gone to the garage. They have called advising there is an Adblue update they need to put on the car, I am assuming that relates to the onboard computer. That makes no sense why the other would happen. Anyone had a similar experience. I am waiting for a call back to see if that resolves the issue but it doesn't sound right.

Hi everyone, I'm Ian, currently living in Norfolk. My wife died recently, leaving me with an NX100 coupe. She bought it new in Brunei in 1992 and imported it the same year, so I guess you could call it one lady owner from new. As I already have two other cars, I would like to see it go to a good home, so if anyone is interested out there, please let me know. Stay safe Ian

Thank you Trevor, much appreciated, I would consider putting bigger wheels on it, but looking at the lump it so much reminds me of the Terrano 2.7 lump, part of me wants to get hold of one to see id it fits! I have gone down that road years ago when younger, But I also recall those small differences which take a week each to conquer! I'm less patient than I used to be and ache quicker!👍

Thanks - I got a new primer pump and it didn't help at all. I could try a new filter, but I did change that one recently.

Hi All Just introducing myself. I have owned my 2005 350Z Roadster for circa 10 years now and enjoyed it. My other automotive hobby being a Megapin single seater circuit race car which I am rebuilding as it has been garaged by the previous owner for several years. I am replacing the engine and all the fibreglass parts with carbon fibre which has taken me circa 3-4 years to perfect. So I now offer carbon fibre parts like aero boot wings etc My 350Z has lots of parts during my ownership including a Jap speed K4 cat back exhaust, Mohair soft top, lots of bracing and I am about to replace the throttle body for the 75mm offering, I just need to machine the fitting plate and make a 75mm carbon fibre inlet pipe. In my early days of ownership like lots of other owners experienced the knock from the front suspension so replaced the shocks & springs then found out it was the Barings in the banana arm Dhoh. Thats reminds me I still have the original shocks and springs lol Anyway I hope to be posting some of my experiences with the car and I'm happy to help anyone thats encounters anything I have experience with. Cheers Chris

Hi all, my first post. My juke 1.6 has a faulty fuel pressure regulator. Have been on the hunt for a replacement pump but prices are absolutely crazy for genuine and I'm struggling to find a none genuine that matches the part number. My part number is 1663000q0b. Are any of these pumps cross operable between models. I'm guessing looking at them they will physically fit but I'm presuming there is a difference in pressure etc? Thanks Tim

hi thanks managed to reset and calibrate

Saying hello as a new member, been a member previously, now an X Trail owner after three Qashqaiss

A pic🙂

Merry Christmas all..pick up a 1990 Silvia project recently..will be looking help info as project progress..thanks all..

Hello everyone. My name is Marius, I am 23 years old and i live in Romania. This is my Qashqai

Picking up 2012 highway star Serena in a couple of weeks. Excited.

Samco are a company that specialise in Silicon hoses so they can provide different diameters and lengths and you can also get couplings and adapters to make up your own hoses

Definitely do a fuel filter change and see how it goes then.....keep us updated

Hi thanks for your reply I really thought I'd cracked it I realised that the interior light wasn't coming on when the rear passenger door was open nor did it show up as open on the dashboard so I unscrewed the switch and found the wire was broken down at the bottom near the seat anywayni joined the wire back up the interior light works as it should now and it also shows up as open on the dashboard but the lights are still flashing

I tow but rarely heavy and/or long. Thanks for the reply

Hi keithtoon ....welcome to the Club There are aftermarket companies on the internet selling SatNav update discs but beware, some work and some don't ! They are not too expensive and worth a try as cheaper than main dealer

Hi everyone.new to the forum Just thought I'd start with a question as everyone does lol. I have a 95 sunny sequel which is currently sitting on steel wheels and I need ideas help as to what wheels will fit it

Engine fault light and lane departure light apparently due to loose battery connection. Driver’s side mirror when reversing still not fixed still points upwards instead of down.

Will do I’m booked in for next Tuesday.

Welcome to the Club

For sale Nissan D21 stoke on Trent

Hi all, I've been having some throttle response problems (flat spot), juddering issues at certain revs and poorer fuel economy on my Micra K12 2003 1.2 petrol. I tried to find a guide online that would help me remove and clean the throttle body but I couldn't find anywhere that could show me the location of the throttle body or even how to remove it. So I decided to find the throttle body myself and undertake the removal and cleaning in the hope of creating a guide for other people who would like to know how to do it. I took some nice photos as I progressed which I could use in a guide. I have put together a little guide which you can find detailed below and also a copy on my website which should help anyone wanting to remove and clean the throttle body on their 1.2 petrol K12. The guide is detailed below in this topic. Alternatively you can also access the guide at: http://www.limecove.co.uk/nissanmicrak12/nissan-micra-k12-throttle-body-removal-clean.html Hopefully it'll be useful. Thanks, Chris

Nissan fixed it under warranty.

1989 Nissan Bluebird for sale Red 1.8L engine Automatic Hello, I’m trying to sell my lovely vintage Nissan Bluebird. The car has been off road for the past 6 months due to a relocation, and I can’t keep it any longer. MOT recently expired, and has a small (I’m told) engine problem, so new buyer would need to tow it. All working parts inside and under bonnet aside from engine problem. Drivers side electric window in need of new motor. It’s been well looked after, I’ve had it 3 years and before then was kept in storage for 10 years by an old collector. 65,000 miles approx very low for the age. I’m looking to sell for £1000-1500 but will consider any sensible offers in this region. I can be contacted on 07718 927124 and email ciaranthomaswood@gmail.com thanks

Hi, new to forum. I've just bought a 72 plate nsport and am wondering if anyone can suggest a reliable wireless phone charger that works with an android phone and fits nice in front of the changer where the USB slot is Thanks in advance

Hi all Recently bought a Murano 2.5 petrol Z51 Engine 2009. Looking forward to picking some brains here and sharing my knowledge too. I live in Auckland and have bought a Japanese import, very common here. It's a great car but am sure I'll have some questions soon! Cheers Nick

Hi Trevor, thanks for your response! That gives me a bit more confidence that its just going to be a bit of a learning curve

Hi there did you get to the bottom of this problem as i have the same thing

told by nissan secure code is due to wrong code being put in radio quoted me £100 to remove then thay send it to france 6-8 weeks to decode and recode price depends on what they find so i found a way to repaire my self has my cd was the problem i got a replacement radio must be the same part no i took both apart swaped the cd unit over as code chip is in the radio replaced my own radio with doner cd job done works as it should again

Thanks 😊 yeah you don’t see many and when I saw it come up for sale and the condition it was in I couldn’t pass it up. Only 49k from new! great to be on board 👌🏻

Thinking of selling my 1996 Nissan QX 3ltr SEL. Any idea as to what price I should ask? Thanks Mike

Thanks Trevor I'll have a look

Probably more economical as well Maybe worthwhile looking through Autocar reviews on both models to see how they fair in a road test

Here is a procedure I found and seem to recall using the same technique before on a T31 You must use ORIGINAL KEY to start procedure 1. Sit in car lock all doors with power “switch lock on driver side door” 2. Using ORIGINAL key insert and remove key till doors UNLOCK within 8 seconds, usually insert and remove six times 3. Turn ORIGINAL key in ignition to ACC position (Do not start engine) 4. Lock all doors with “power door lock switch on Driver side door” 5. Press lock or unlock on NEW key this will match them up, if you have another key press lock or unlock as well, it will be programmed all keys to the same code. To exit program mode, turn the ignition OFF. UNLOCK the door using the driver side switch. Test fobs

Nissan Micra K12 Throttle Body Removal and Clean Welcome to this guide on how to remove and clean the throttle body on a Nissan Micra K12. This procedure was done on a 1.2 2003 petrol model. As I couldn't find a good tutorial on this process I thought I would have a go myself and then put together this guide for other people. The process is actually relatively straight forward once you know how. I was experiencing juddering at certain points on the rev range and when the car was in a certain gear, MPG had decreased plus some hunting when the car was idle. So I decided that I would clean the throttle body to see if that would help. I actually didn't know exactly where the throttle body was located on this model. It's actually located under the air intake box/top manifolds which are shown below. It's actually located inside and under the top of the plastic manifold housing. Once you have removed the throttle body you will realise that it's actually connected to one of the electrical connections on the top of the housing that you will need to disconnect as part of this process. Throttle body location This is where the throttle body is location on a 2003 1.2 petrol Nissan Micra K12. Tools required This is a list of tools and other items required to get to the throttle body, remove it from the housing and then clean it: Pliers or grips 10 mm socket Ratchet Toothbrush or cotton buds and an old but clean cloth A good carb/throttle body cleaner The process So here are the steps. Step 1 - Remove the air intake and air filter box Remove the air intake pipe (highlighted by the red arrow) by removing the plastic lugs that hold it to the front of the engine bay and then remove the other end from the air filter housing on the right. I had to slightly twist mine and then gave it a hard pull to detach it. Then remove the air filter housing from the manifold housing. Do this by unclipping the metal retaining clips (highlighted in blue in the image below) located on the front and the right side of the housing. There are only two clips that hold this in place. They simply unclip upwards and one remains connected to the top housing and the other remains connected to the air filter box. Once you have unclipped the air filter housing the front of it may drop away from you. It should not fall off completely as the back is held in place by the box being slid into holders in the back of the top housing. To remove the air filter box simply push the front down and when it's at a certain point pull the air filter housing towards you. This will pull it out of the rear mounts. Try to look at the rears mounts when you do this so that you can be sure you pushed it down enough to be able to pull it forward without snapping the plastic mounts on the back of the top housing. You should see this when the air filter housing has been dropped away from the top housing. The air filter itself may have stuck to the underside of the top housing like mine did so just pull it off and place to one side. I would suggest replacing it with a new filter whilst you are doing this as you will have to put it back in when you reassemble. Now just slide the air filter housing out of the engine bay so that you can continue. You will see this. Step 2 - Disconnect Electrical Connectors Disconnect the three electrical connectors as highlighted in red. The one to the left of the top housing is the actual throttle body connector. Once the one in the middle of the top housing is unplugged, make sure you gentle pull it out of the recess that the rest of the cable lies within and gently push it to one side out of the way. Do not just pull these connectors as they are made from plastic and will snap. They all have a small tab which needs to be depressed at the same time as gently pulling them. Do not pull them too hard as they do not need it. They will disconnect very easily if the tab is pressed whilst pulling them. Step 3 - Disconnect Breather Pipes/Hoses Disconnect the two breather hoses/pipes as highlighted in red. You will need to use a pair of pliers to release the retaining clips that hold the end of the pipes tightly sealed in place. Just squeeze the release arms on the retaining clips with the pliers and slide the retaining clips along the pipes until they are free of the housing connector. Now just gentle pull the hoses/pipes off the housing connectors. Again, you do not need to pull these hard. They should just slide off with a light pressure. Remove the centre hose from the recess in the top housing and push it out of the way. You should now see something like the image below. All electrical connectors have been disconnected and the hoses disconnected. I took this picture before I had moved the centre hose out of the way so you shouldn't have this in place at this stage. Next remove the breather hose mount, shown below, from the top housing. If you don't remove this you will not be able to remove the top housing completely if you leave the rear hose attached. Alternatively, you could leave it bolted on and just remove the other hose from it and then remove the top housing with the mount attached. I just unbolted it and pushed it out of the way so I didn't damage it. Once you've removed the mount then it should look like the image below. Just move it gently out of the way so that it doesn't interfere when you remove the top housing. Step 4 - Remove Top Housing You can now remove the top housing by simply removing the bolts highlighted in red in the below images. They are all 10 mm. Remove the three front bolts. Remove the two bolts on the left rear of the housing. Remove the two bolts on the right rear of the housing. Once the seven bolts have been removed you can simply pull the top of the housing up towards you and it should separate from the bottom section of the housing. Warning: Do not pull this top section up too hard. You should be able to just pull it up with a little force. The top section is attached to plastic manifold inlet pipes toward the rear and they are pretty much held on by O rings. Try to pull the top section of the housing up towards you in a straight motion. Try not to bend it as you pull it up. It should come off fairly easily. Warning: This top section actually contains the throttle body itself so take care. Do not just drop it to one side as you may damage the throttle body that you are about to clean - if you are not replacing the throttle body itself of course. You should now see the image below once the top section is removed. Step 5 - Remove Throttle Body From Top Housing Once you've pulled off the top housing turn it over to see the location of the throttle body. Simply remove the three bolts that are highlighted in red in the image below. They are 10mm so just use the same socket you used to remove the top housing bolts. Once you have removed the three bolts you can now remove the whole throttle body. The throttle body is now only held in by the top of the electrical connector on the outside of the top housing. It's a bit tight so just pull the throttle body towards you whilst wiggling it slightly as the rubber seal is a little tight. Don't put too much force as you might snap the plastic top housing. You should now see the housing like this once the throttle body has been removed. Step 6 - Clean The Throttle Body To clean the throttle body I used a small headed toothbrush, some clean rag and a good carb / throttle body cleaner. Warning: Carefully follow the instructions on the carb cleaner. Do this work in a well ventilated area, preferably outside and wear a suitable breathing mask. Take extreme care not to inhale the fumes from this cleaner or the dirt that it removes from the throttle body. I used the following carb cleaner which is available from a well known parts store for about £8. This was the state of my throttle body when I got it out. It was really clogged up and clearly sticking. Simply attach the small pipe to the can of carb cleaner and then spray into and around the inside of the intake of the throttle body and all over the butterfly valve. Then just brush the whole of the inside of the intake (front and back) and butterfly valve with the toothbrush and/or rag. The dirt should come off quite easily as the carb cleaner is really effective. Keep doing this until the intake and butterfly valve are as clean as you can get them. Keep wiping off any residue with a good clean rag as well as you do this. After about 10 minutes of cleaning I had a nice clean throttle body as shown below. Yours should look pretty similar when complete. Step 7 - Refit Your Throttle Body And Reassemble Other Parts Warning: Before refitting your cleaned throttle body you should ensure that the throttle body is dry and does not contain any residue from the cleaning agent. I left my throttle body to completely dry for about an hour or so just to be extra cautious before proceeding with refitting. Refitting your throttle body and reassembly is just really this guide in reverse from step 5 back to step 1. Warning: Take care when reattaching the top of the housing to the bottom and the intake pipes as they have O rings present. Ensure that they are correctly aligned before pushing the top housing down into place. Be careful not to pinch or tear the O rings. If it's tight to refit over the O rings then either replace the O rings or simply apply a small smear of engine oil around the O rings which should help refit the top housing. Warning: Do not over tighten the bolts that hold the throttle body in place or the top housing. Warning: Once you have reassembled everything it is a good idea to just double check that all the breather hoses are reattached and secured in place and that all the electrical connectors are attached securely. You should now be able to start the car and test accordingly. If this process has been successful then you should have a smoother throttle response and possibly more accurate. Mine stopped juddering at certain revs and seemed so much more responsive. I am also now getting much better fuel economy.