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Hmm, seems like someone had the issue before and a bodge was carried to rectify the issue (or at least attempt to rectify it). There is an issue with the timing chains and as far as I can see it was a recall from Nissan. It does suggest that it occurs on hard acceleration (e.g. from a slip-road) and if the chain is slack it can drift away from the timing point by a small fraction (much like a loose timing belt) which can then throw a code for cam/crank timing and result in what you are experiencing. I would personally replace the engine oil and look to see what has come out - e.g. metal particles and then replace it with the specified oil which may have not been supplied with previously. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/engine-oil-12094/nissan/pulsar/pulsar-hatchback-c13/107484-1-2-dig-t If you use a quality oil of the correct specifications (as listed in the link above) and see if that makes any difference to how it runs. If no real difference is noted then I would advise to get the timing chain replaced which will almost certainly make a difference if it is worn

I use a smart screen with Android Auto. Then connect my phone via BlueTooth and use Waze map. Less expensive and live updates of accidents, traffic jams etc.

I had the same problem radio cutting off there is a fee upgrade from nissan now work perfectly it's a common problem

Hello, I am joining this forum with hopes to be able to supply you guys with some hard to come by parts for your beloved Nissans, as the title states we are the second oldest Nissan dealer in the uk and we are looking to move some of our older parts that have been stored away for years. I will be doing a follow up post with our parts list which should have thousands of items for you guys to sift through at your leisure, I just wanted to test the waters to see how helpful this would be for you guys, any responses or comments appreciated. Kind regards, Oscar

Hi all! Im thinking of getting a Pathfinder in the next month or two. Wanted something bigger for going fishing/camping and always loved the look of the Pathfinder. Especially the older shape (07/08 models). Has anyone got a rot free one with upgraded timing chain they are thinking of parting with? Thanks in advance 🤘🏻🙂 Harry

I purchased a new X Trail 1.5 VC-T TEKNA e4orce on 29th July 2024 within 6 months after car had not been driven for a week battery was flat. Battery changed by garage this has happened 3 times. Seems static electricity is draining battery so an earth strap has been installed by garage. Seems to have done the trick but is this common on new hybrid cars? Garage not getting much info from Nissan.

Hi everyone, I am Sid and I own a 1993 K reg 1.6 Sunny SR. Looking for a few bits and bobs and hopefully good advise. Thanks All.

Just taking a sec to say Hello, Just bought a Nissan Micra K12 1.2 2008 for my daughter.

Hello, I recently imported a rare Nissan Stagea 350S with the 6 x speed manual gearbox only 167 were made by AUTECH , i took it for its first mot today and it failed on both front lower control arm inner bushes would anybody know who can supply me with items or better still a pair of wishbones which makes the job easier for the mechanic. Cheers .. jimcrickuk@aol.com

Possibly but the more I have driven it the more annoying all the bings and bongs have become. It maybe just that it is a rental but the radio is frankly crap. Can't find stations or when it does won't follow them on long journeys as frequencies change. This is true on the FM and DAB. The SatNav isn't interactive unlike my Kia so no notice of traffic, roadworks or road closures. The speed monitoring is pretty up and down with it registering the wrong speed limit about 50% of the time resulting in more bings and bongs it it thinks the limit is lower than it really is. These are irritations because I like the higher driving position and the vision. The seats are comfy and plenty of room for a car of it's size. Getting up to about 1200 miles now. My car is still in dock. When I get it back I shall be looking for a replacement. The Juke will be on the list to look at but I would need an HeV.

Thanks Trevor on further investigation we have found similar fault on other Vehicle's and it was found to be Evaporative sensor ( Ambient Thermostat) have one on order but nil stock Australia due in a couple weeks I will post the result

My Adblue light came on just before Christmas, it jumped from 1500 miles to 750 miles to 384 miles within seconds. I filled up but the light remained on and did not reset. I put some specialist cleaner in the Adblue tank to clear any crystallisation that may have taken place. That did not resolve it. It has therefore gone to the garage. They have called advising there is an Adblue update they need to put on the car, I am assuming that relates to the onboard computer. That makes no sense why the other would happen. Anyone had a similar experience. I am waiting for a call back to see if that resolves the issue but it doesn't sound right.

Thanks for that Trevor. I have now stripped it all down to basics and confirmed that: there is definitely full voltage on some of the connector pins, that the linkages are moving nicely (a touch of oil helped) and the motor is not interested in doing anything (not even with the linkages disconnected). I have now ordered a motor which I should get by Sunday.... I will let you know how it goes. Many thanks, Dave

It sounds like battery strength and condition is poor. I would definitely try a new battery before proceeding to replace other parts

Thank you Trevor, much appreciated, I would consider putting bigger wheels on it, but looking at the lump it so much reminds me of the Terrano 2.7 lump, part of me wants to get hold of one to see id it fits! I have gone down that road years ago when younger, But I also recall those small differences which take a week each to conquer! I'm less patient than I used to be and ache quicker!👍

Maybe it is the same sensor part number if the lead is long enough to reach - that is assuming it has a B sensor.....if you do find another there, change the plugs over to the A sensor and see if the fault transfers to A sensor

Hi All Just introducing myself. I have owned my 2005 350Z Roadster for circa 10 years now and enjoyed it. My other automotive hobby being a Megapin single seater circuit race car which I am rebuilding as it has been garaged by the previous owner for several years. I am replacing the engine and all the fibreglass parts with carbon fibre which has taken me circa 3-4 years to perfect. So I now offer carbon fibre parts like aero boot wings etc My 350Z has lots of parts during my ownership including a Jap speed K4 cat back exhaust, Mohair soft top, lots of bracing and I am about to replace the throttle body for the 75mm offering, I just need to machine the fitting plate and make a 75mm carbon fibre inlet pipe. In my early days of ownership like lots of other owners experienced the knock from the front suspension so replaced the shocks & springs then found out it was the Barings in the banana arm Dhoh. Thats reminds me I still have the original shocks and springs lol Anyway I hope to be posting some of my experiences with the car and I'm happy to help anyone thats encounters anything I have experience with. Cheers Chris

Hi All , Had our X Trail Acenta since May 29th and love it hope to learn from. This group. Cheers Steve.

Have a look at the offering from AutoCom as I think this may cover the ABS

Hi all Just popped in to say hello from Kingston upon Hull. About to purchase my first Nissan. A 1.0 DIG-T 117 N-Sport 2019. After having issues with Ford. Hopefully, i have chosen wisely.

Hi - just bought my first Nissan ... a 2008 1.6 ltr Micra K12 cc Sport convertible in silver. 3 previous owners and 116k on the clock... it was a cat n insurance write off due to light damage to boot lid and rear bumper! It runs excellently, even the intelligent key works (well most of the time - lol!) ... and the roof works perfectly, so looking forward to the summer months! A few pics the 'Micra Machine' attached. Cheers Steve!

Merry Christmas all..pick up a 1990 Silvia project recently..will be looking help info as project progress..thanks all..

Hello everyone. My name is Marius, I am 23 years old and i live in Romania. This is my Qashqai

Definitely do a fuel filter change and see how it goes then.....keep us updated

I am a newbie here and have a '85 300ZX (see pic) that I am trying to find maintenance for in San Antonio,TX. I would like to find a reliable maintenance shop for regular support as well as when it needs more in-depth attention. Does anyone have a suggestion or two? Thanks.

Hello. Very pleased goes extremely well far better than the previous Peugeot 5008 I got rid of. I changed my previous Qashqai 1.6 petrol with CVT box 13 reg about 3 years ago mainly due to the badly corroded rear subframe, managed a pass but received an advisory instead. Car came from South Cornwall ( St Agnes )exposed to the salty atmosphere from new. This is probably the best secondhand car I’ve bought, must be at least 50 over the last 60 years. The only thing I miss is not having an automatic handbrake which came on when you turned off the engine unlike the Peugeot.

Hi all I own a Note Acenta 1.4, no where near fast but very practical and probably one of the best cars I have ever owned

Okay, I did what I should've done before posting a question, and checked the technical manual. It seems getting the cluster out is straight forward. Remove radio, remove temperature controls, remove cluster panel and then remove the gauge cluster. Nissan calls it a "combination meter" for whatever reason. I've attached the relevant page here if someone else comes across this topic in the future. I haven't found where mileage is stored, but I'm assuming in the cluster itself. I'm gonna order one with similar mileage. If mileage turns out to be recorded somewhere else that would be a bonus, but if not a few extra thousand miles on the odometer won't hurt and won't set off any alarm bells during the next MOT.

I tow but rarely heavy and/or long. Thanks for the reply

Will do I’m booked in for next Tuesday.

For sale Nissan D21 stoke on Trent

Hi all, I've been having some throttle response problems (flat spot), juddering issues at certain revs and poorer fuel economy on my Micra K12 2003 1.2 petrol. I tried to find a guide online that would help me remove and clean the throttle body but I couldn't find anywhere that could show me the location of the throttle body or even how to remove it. So I decided to find the throttle body myself and undertake the removal and cleaning in the hope of creating a guide for other people who would like to know how to do it. I took some nice photos as I progressed which I could use in a guide. I have put together a little guide which you can find detailed below and also a copy on my website which should help anyone wanting to remove and clean the throttle body on their 1.2 petrol K12. The guide is detailed below in this topic. Alternatively you can also access the guide at: http://www.limecove.co.uk/nissanmicrak12/nissan-micra-k12-throttle-body-removal-clean.html Hopefully it'll be useful. Thanks, Chris

Nissan fixed it under warranty.

Thankyou Trevor.it has 13 inch steels on with a 175 75 profile I think but I've found a set of 14 inch alloys from a 90's nissan I think a 100nx?? And am going to have them resprayed and 4 new proxy tyres

Hi all Recently bought a Murano 2.5 petrol Z51 Engine 2009. Looking forward to picking some brains here and sharing my knowledge too. I live in Auckland and have bought a Japanese import, very common here. It's a great car but am sure I'll have some questions soon! Cheers Nick

Hi Trevor, thanks for your response! That gives me a bit more confidence that its just going to be a bit of a learning curve

I have had the car checked and there are no issues. It appears to be a fault with the app and Nissan are looking into it.

Hi Jon....welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

Morning gents and ladies! New member and also a new Nissian owner N16 Almera 2006 1.5 petrol! Joined here to help with modding this car ! I've already posted a question so I shan't post it in here as well! Look forward to speaking with you all!

Hi there did you get to the bottom of this problem as i have the same thing

Hi guys new here and just a show of my modified 350z sparky IMG_1606.MOV

Hi there I have a 1988 nissan bluebird lx 1.6 for sale. The car has been garaged for the last 31 years (up to January 2021) and is mot'd until November 2022. I've been passed this vehicle from my gran who looked after it very well but she no longer drives. I'm looking to sell at around £1300/£1400 but will consider any sensible offers in this region. Photos attached. Please contact me on 07837 232737 or by email at lawrence.cormacey@gmail.com

You should ideally change both at same time given they’re both the same age and done the same mileage.

Common fault on Qashqai is condenser failure. Perhaps your A/C system doesn’t have gas in and isn’t working accurately.

I get this exact issue with my 2016 Juke, I connect to it through bluetooth and use spotify and it will just randomly pause for 10 seconds every now and again. I made sure to turn off traffic announcements, which helped a bit, but it still happens sometimes. Let me know if the re-calibration helps, i'll have to get it done myself!

I have purchased a 1991 Nissan Vanette. I just wondered if there were any other owners?

Not sure on the differences without doing a side by side comparison and also taking it for an extended test drive and seeing how they compare. If you are looking to trade before Christmas means the trader would probably be keen to make the sale so a good deal could possibly be had at this time of year.

Hi I have driven all sorts of vehicles cars bikes vans to articulated lorries. I have also driven electric vehicles before so it was not an issue, the issue was going to be around regular charging at home. My local and county council are stating the have no plans in the foreseeable future to install charging at the roadside in residential areas for people without access to off road parking. Their view is they want local residents to use public transport rather than their own vehicles so it looks like a backdoor way to force people out of having their own cars. I took the issue up with my local MP who also happens to be the secretary of state for transport. I had a dace to face meeting with him pointed out the councils proposed plans and informed him that 23% of the local vehicle owners were being prevented from taking up electric vehicle use. He appeared quite interested in the points I raised and said he would look at what action he could take to assist in the matter. Then some weeks latter like all good politicians he contacted me by email providing all the information and figures I had already given him indicating there was nothing he could do. I will now stay with an ICE vehicle for as long as I can before maybe then switching to hydrogen fuel cell vehicles if they materialise as they will be a better choice for people without access to off road parking.

Sadly not! We had to pay the cost of replacement Clutch of £1800 plus an AA report of £200. The AA sent ACE (Automotive Consulting Engineers Ltd) to carry out the inspection which concluded that the Clutch had over heated which caused the failure. No suggestion as to cause other than abuse and referred to Towing in the report which did not mention that there is not a Tow Bar on the car! The report appeared to me to have a large element of "cut and paste" about it. I tried to contact ACE for more details of the inspection but they did not respond I contacted Nissan and asked if they could Inspect the components and the Dual Mass Fly Wheel, they declined and suggested I look on the Internet to find someone to inspect it but could not suggest anyone. The Nissan "Adviser" declined to discuss the matter any further with me and refused to put through to a Manager. We reject the suggestion that we "ride" the clutch as there is adequate spec by the clutch pedal to rest the foot and we have suddenly become bad drivers. I took legal advise and my Solicitor advised that we could become involved in a costly dispute. We are left with a car that my wife is reluctant to drive as she has lost faith in it. We ask ourselves three questions. Would we buy another Nissan, would we recommend a friend to buy a Nissan and are we satisfied with Nissan's Customer Care? NO, NO, ABSOLUTELY NOT.

Nissan Micra K12 Throttle Body Removal and Clean Welcome to this guide on how to remove and clean the throttle body on a Nissan Micra K12. This procedure was done on a 1.2 2003 petrol model. As I couldn't find a good tutorial on this process I thought I would have a go myself and then put together this guide for other people. The process is actually relatively straight forward once you know how. I was experiencing juddering at certain points on the rev range and when the car was in a certain gear, MPG had decreased plus some hunting when the car was idle. So I decided that I would clean the throttle body to see if that would help. I actually didn't know exactly where the throttle body was located on this model. It's actually located under the air intake box/top manifolds which are shown below. It's actually located inside and under the top of the plastic manifold housing. Once you have removed the throttle body you will realise that it's actually connected to one of the electrical connections on the top of the housing that you will need to disconnect as part of this process. Throttle body location This is where the throttle body is location on a 2003 1.2 petrol Nissan Micra K12. Tools required This is a list of tools and other items required to get to the throttle body, remove it from the housing and then clean it: Pliers or grips 10 mm socket Ratchet Toothbrush or cotton buds and an old but clean cloth A good carb/throttle body cleaner The process So here are the steps. Step 1 - Remove the air intake and air filter box Remove the air intake pipe (highlighted by the red arrow) by removing the plastic lugs that hold it to the front of the engine bay and then remove the other end from the air filter housing on the right. I had to slightly twist mine and then gave it a hard pull to detach it. Then remove the air filter housing from the manifold housing. Do this by unclipping the metal retaining clips (highlighted in blue in the image below) located on the front and the right side of the housing. There are only two clips that hold this in place. They simply unclip upwards and one remains connected to the top housing and the other remains connected to the air filter box. Once you have unclipped the air filter housing the front of it may drop away from you. It should not fall off completely as the back is held in place by the box being slid into holders in the back of the top housing. To remove the air filter box simply push the front down and when it's at a certain point pull the air filter housing towards you. This will pull it out of the rear mounts. Try to look at the rears mounts when you do this so that you can be sure you pushed it down enough to be able to pull it forward without snapping the plastic mounts on the back of the top housing. You should see this when the air filter housing has been dropped away from the top housing. The air filter itself may have stuck to the underside of the top housing like mine did so just pull it off and place to one side. I would suggest replacing it with a new filter whilst you are doing this as you will have to put it back in when you reassemble. Now just slide the air filter housing out of the engine bay so that you can continue. You will see this. Step 2 - Disconnect Electrical Connectors Disconnect the three electrical connectors as highlighted in red. The one to the left of the top housing is the actual throttle body connector. Once the one in the middle of the top housing is unplugged, make sure you gentle pull it out of the recess that the rest of the cable lies within and gently push it to one side out of the way. Do not just pull these connectors as they are made from plastic and will snap. They all have a small tab which needs to be depressed at the same time as gently pulling them. Do not pull them too hard as they do not need it. They will disconnect very easily if the tab is pressed whilst pulling them. Step 3 - Disconnect Breather Pipes/Hoses Disconnect the two breather hoses/pipes as highlighted in red. You will need to use a pair of pliers to release the retaining clips that hold the end of the pipes tightly sealed in place. Just squeeze the release arms on the retaining clips with the pliers and slide the retaining clips along the pipes until they are free of the housing connector. Now just gentle pull the hoses/pipes off the housing connectors. Again, you do not need to pull these hard. They should just slide off with a light pressure. Remove the centre hose from the recess in the top housing and push it out of the way. You should now see something like the image below. All electrical connectors have been disconnected and the hoses disconnected. I took this picture before I had moved the centre hose out of the way so you shouldn't have this in place at this stage. Next remove the breather hose mount, shown below, from the top housing. If you don't remove this you will not be able to remove the top housing completely if you leave the rear hose attached. Alternatively, you could leave it bolted on and just remove the other hose from it and then remove the top housing with the mount attached. I just unbolted it and pushed it out of the way so I didn't damage it. Once you've removed the mount then it should look like the image below. Just move it gently out of the way so that it doesn't interfere when you remove the top housing. Step 4 - Remove Top Housing You can now remove the top housing by simply removing the bolts highlighted in red in the below images. They are all 10 mm. Remove the three front bolts. Remove the two bolts on the left rear of the housing. Remove the two bolts on the right rear of the housing. Once the seven bolts have been removed you can simply pull the top of the housing up towards you and it should separate from the bottom section of the housing. Warning: Do not pull this top section up too hard. You should be able to just pull it up with a little force. The top section is attached to plastic manifold inlet pipes toward the rear and they are pretty much held on by O rings. Try to pull the top section of the housing up towards you in a straight motion. Try not to bend it as you pull it up. It should come off fairly easily. Warning: This top section actually contains the throttle body itself so take care. Do not just drop it to one side as you may damage the throttle body that you are about to clean - if you are not replacing the throttle body itself of course. You should now see the image below once the top section is removed. Step 5 - Remove Throttle Body From Top Housing Once you've pulled off the top housing turn it over to see the location of the throttle body. Simply remove the three bolts that are highlighted in red in the image below. They are 10mm so just use the same socket you used to remove the top housing bolts. Once you have removed the three bolts you can now remove the whole throttle body. The throttle body is now only held in by the top of the electrical connector on the outside of the top housing. It's a bit tight so just pull the throttle body towards you whilst wiggling it slightly as the rubber seal is a little tight. Don't put too much force as you might snap the plastic top housing. You should now see the housing like this once the throttle body has been removed. Step 6 - Clean The Throttle Body To clean the throttle body I used a small headed toothbrush, some clean rag and a good carb / throttle body cleaner. Warning: Carefully follow the instructions on the carb cleaner. Do this work in a well ventilated area, preferably outside and wear a suitable breathing mask. Take extreme care not to inhale the fumes from this cleaner or the dirt that it removes from the throttle body. I used the following carb cleaner which is available from a well known parts store for about £8. This was the state of my throttle body when I got it out. It was really clogged up and clearly sticking. Simply attach the small pipe to the can of carb cleaner and then spray into and around the inside of the intake of the throttle body and all over the butterfly valve. Then just brush the whole of the inside of the intake (front and back) and butterfly valve with the toothbrush and/or rag. The dirt should come off quite easily as the carb cleaner is really effective. Keep doing this until the intake and butterfly valve are as clean as you can get them. Keep wiping off any residue with a good clean rag as well as you do this. After about 10 minutes of cleaning I had a nice clean throttle body as shown below. Yours should look pretty similar when complete. Step 7 - Refit Your Throttle Body And Reassemble Other Parts Warning: Before refitting your cleaned throttle body you should ensure that the throttle body is dry and does not contain any residue from the cleaning agent. I left my throttle body to completely dry for about an hour or so just to be extra cautious before proceeding with refitting. Refitting your throttle body and reassembly is just really this guide in reverse from step 5 back to step 1. Warning: Take care when reattaching the top of the housing to the bottom and the intake pipes as they have O rings present. Ensure that they are correctly aligned before pushing the top housing down into place. Be careful not to pinch or tear the O rings. If it's tight to refit over the O rings then either replace the O rings or simply apply a small smear of engine oil around the O rings which should help refit the top housing. Warning: Do not over tighten the bolts that hold the throttle body in place or the top housing. Warning: Once you have reassembled everything it is a good idea to just double check that all the breather hoses are reattached and secured in place and that all the electrical connectors are attached securely. You should now be able to start the car and test accordingly. If this process has been successful then you should have a smoother throttle response and possibly more accurate. Mine stopped juddering at certain revs and seemed so much more responsive. I am also now getting much better fuel economy.