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Hmm, seems like someone had the issue before and a bodge was carried to rectify the issue (or at least attempt to rectify it). There is an issue with the timing chains and as far as I can see it was a recall from Nissan. It does suggest that it occurs on hard acceleration (e.g. from a slip-road) and if the chain is slack it can drift away from the timing point by a small fraction (much like a loose timing belt) which can then throw a code for cam/crank timing and result in what you are experiencing. I would personally replace the engine oil and look to see what has come out - e.g. metal particles and then replace it with the specified oil which may have not been supplied with previously. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/engine-oil-12094/nissan/pulsar/pulsar-hatchback-c13/107484-1-2-dig-t If you use a quality oil of the correct specifications (as listed in the link above) and see if that makes any difference to how it runs. If no real difference is noted then I would advise to get the timing chain replaced which will almost certainly make a difference if it is worn

I use a smart screen with Android Auto. Then connect my phone via BlueTooth and use Waze map. Less expensive and live updates of accidents, traffic jams etc.

I had the same problem radio cutting off there is a fee upgrade from nissan now work perfectly it's a common problem

Hello, I am joining this forum with hopes to be able to supply you guys with some hard to come by parts for your beloved Nissans, as the title states we are the second oldest Nissan dealer in the uk and we are looking to move some of our older parts that have been stored away for years. I will be doing a follow up post with our parts list which should have thousands of items for you guys to sift through at your leisure, I just wanted to test the waters to see how helpful this would be for you guys, any responses or comments appreciated. Kind regards, Oscar

Hi all! Im thinking of getting a Pathfinder in the next month or two. Wanted something bigger for going fishing/camping and always loved the look of the Pathfinder. Especially the older shape (07/08 models). Has anyone got a rot free one with upgraded timing chain they are thinking of parting with? Thanks in advance 🤘🏻🙂 Harry

Yeah Trevor I generally get 3 months warranty out but with this being a newish car they gave 2 years for the price of 1

Hello to everyone! I'm buying an x Trail e-power 4x4!

used to see this with black electrical tape. does the job.

I know... so nothing. But, Thanks.

When I had this i thought it was a phone or car setting. Can't really remember but I did get it to stop by altering which ever setting it was.

So, here's the saga. Offside Drum collapsed inside, my fault- long story. Anyway, new drums, studs, bearings, shoes, spring kit purchased, but could I find an ABS ring for the pixo anywhere? Nope! Eventually, Vertu Nissan offered me 2 rings for £201!!! Bought 2 used drums, cleaned/painted and fitted. ABS light turned off 👍 Moral of the story: Parts like this are becoming very difficult to get. Also, does anyone have any ABS rings? I have 2 brand new drums, with new bearings pressed in and ready to. They'll need the fings fitted, obviously. You can have them both for £50 plus whatever the p&p will be Tony

i would say its a case for the ombudsmen and certainly run it past citizens advice to get some more guidance on pursuing a claim If unsuccesful then a secondhand engine (with the revised cooling system parts) may be the most financially advisable way forwards

I purchased a new X Trail 1.5 VC-T TEKNA e4orce on 29th July 2024 within 6 months after car had not been driven for a week battery was flat. Battery changed by garage this has happened 3 times. Seems static electricity is draining battery so an earth strap has been installed by garage. Seems to have done the trick but is this common on new hybrid cars? Garage not getting much info from Nissan.

Just taking a sec to say Hello, Just bought a Nissan Micra K12 1.2 2008 for my daughter.

I got a good set of used tires (4) and put em on there. $85 for just mount and balance but that’s how it rolls. Wierdest experience ever leaving the tire shop. Truck was clattering along like one or more tires seriously out of balance. I was like dreading having to go back and force the issue(s). And then within a few miles at moderate speeds the clattering went away entirely and then smooth running. Like? But that works. They put double balance weights on each wheel. They have the push ins at the inside of the wheel at the tire. And they have glue ons inside the spokes to the outside of the tire. In three cases, the weights are pretty much opposite each other on the wheels! I never saw anything like that before. Like they balanced each wheel twice? This is a very experienced tire shop, for the record. 😯

Hi Paul, thanks for reply. the files are mp3, so should all play. I am using a one of the newer sticks, USB-C, in case older sticks don’t work on the latest latest players. So everything is compatible. i will up date this saga after the visit to the dealer who is going to check player in the car.

I wasn’t planning on buying a Nissan Leaf. I was only vaguely aware it was an option. We had been contemplating a fully electric car for a while, but were torn between a smaller vehicle and a larger one with a significant towing capacity. It was a toss-up between a Tesla Model Y as the larger option or something else as the smaller option, but we didn’t know what the something else would be. We stumbled into the local Nissan dealer while out window-shopping for cars recently, and they showed us three used Nissan Leafs they had in stock. After many questions with the dealer and a test drive, we bought the 2020 Nissan Leaf Tekna 40 kWh, subject to financing. I spent the next few days researching all I could about the car and organising financing and insurance. A week after the initial test drive, we drove the shiny new toy off the lot and took it home. This is our first fully electric vehicle. I previously had a non-plugin hybrid, so I was familiar with regenerative braking. However, driving a fully electric car is a different experience, so there would be a learning curve. The first and most apparent difference in the driving experience is the buttery smooth transition between accelerating and decelerating and the equally jolt-free transition from stationary to moving and from moving to stationary. Pulling up to a traffic light or otherwise coming to a complete stop is smooth, with no engine vibration, no jolt from a change in gears, etc. It’s an absolute joy to drive. The Nissan Leaf has an ePedal feature. This feature must be manually engaged when you start the car using a pull switch in the centre console near the gear stick. When engaged, the car maximises regenerative braking. Usually, when you press a car’s brake pedal, the car’s forward momentum is arrested as brake pads heat up through friction. All the car’s forward momentum energy is transferred to the brake pads' heating, so it’s lost as heat energy. When you lift your foot from the accelerator while the ePedal feature is engaged, the Leaf’s motor instantly becomes a generator. This happens each time the car slows down while driving, which can be quite often if you are in the city or the journey is primarily stop and go. All the car’s forward momentum is captured as energy used to charge the battery for as long as you’re braking. The transition from motor (using energy from the battery) to generator (putting energy into the battery) is instant and seamless. The more stop and go and braking (lifting your foot from the accelerator), the more energy is reclaimed and put back into the battery. Where the difference in driving experience is noticeable between the Leaf and a regular ICE (Internal Combustion Engine) car, is that the braking effect from just lifting your foot off the accelerator is considerably more acute – especially when ePedal is engaged. In other words, the car slows down much faster than you might otherwise expect. It takes a bit of getting used to. I love the ePedal, but my wife doesn’t. I do have to remember to engage the ePedal feature each time. Sometimes I forget, and then engage it after I’ve started moving the car, such as reversing out of the garage. The car then almost immediately comes to a complete stop due to the braking effect, so I’m still getting used to this. Range anxiety, or the fear of running out of battery charge at inconvenient times, is a genuine concern. Although the fear is real, we’ve not encountered any actual issues in practice. The car has three charging options, each associated with one of two different charging connectors under the small flap in front of the bonnet. When unlatched, either by pressing the button on the key fob or the button on a panel to the left of the steering wheel, the flap can be raised to reveal the two charging ports. The one on the left is the CHAdeMO charging port for fast charging (up to 50 kW). When at a fast charging station, you connect the cable physically and permanently attached to the charge pole into this slot. The charging port on the right side is for AC charging. Two cables come with the car for use with this slower AC charging port. One has a regular household plug on the end, which you use to plug the car in at home. That will give you a trickle charge (2.3 kW) which is relatively slow and typically requires the car to be plugged in overnight to charge the battery fully from near empty. The other is for charging faster at paid locations while out and about (6.6 kW). It’s slower than the CHAdeMO fast charger but fast enough to give you a decent charge after a couple of hours, such as while out shopping or at a restaurant. The CHAdeMO charger could take me from 15% to 80% in about half an hour. While researching the car, before I had paid for it, I learned that getting a battery SOH (State Of Health) report was prudent. Fortunately, the Nissan dealer accommodated this request and provided me with the report. In my case, the report showed the battery was still at 100% health. If the battery health deteriorates below a certain threshold after a certain period, the warranty kicks in and you can have the battery replaced under the warranty. As my Leaf is only 5 years old and came with just 18,500 KM, I did not expect any significant degradation. Using a dongle and a smartphone app called LeafSpy, you can extract detailed telemetry from the car, which provides much more in-depth insights into the vehicle’s usage, battery charging history, etc. I have yet to dive into that. The two charging cables that come with the car are heavy duty, and not the easiest to fold away tidily into the pocket on the inside of the boot. Life with a fully electric car now involves the logistics of managing these cables, taking them out and wrapping them away again after each charge session, etc. We’ve left the AC charger with the household plug permanently plugged in to a socket in the garage, so it’s always conveniently placed to plug in when the car is in the garage. However, it only just reaches. The cable is 5m long. The car itself is 4.5m long. Using extension cords is ill advised for various reasons, so having a plug socket adjacent to where the car is parked while charging is a consideration. You can find out how much charge the battery has at any point from the dashboard while the car is turned on, but there is also a Nissan smartphone app called NissanConnect EV, which you can use to access that information remotely. The car periodically communicates charging telemetry with Nissan’s computing cloud. The app then reads that data from the cloud to provide you updates. We’ve found this slow and the app somewhat buggy and limited. There’s another app called My Leaf. That’s marginally better but still quite slow to refresh and display updated information. With both apps, the information is never immediately at your fingertips – there’s always an annoying delay getting the refreshed data. Our experience with charging while out and about has been a little hit and miss. Our local McDonald’s has a charging pole from Vattenfall. There are two bays and three charging cable types. I’ve attempted to use it twice. Both times I’ve been able to park and hook up, but one time there was a message on the screen indicating there was no power available. I called the number listed and spoke to a real person, but they said they could do nothing since it was outside of regular office hours. The other time it worked perfectly, and I charged from 15% to 80% by the time I finished my meal. Fortunately, my employer provides free charging for electric vehicles. I’ve been able to charge my vehicle to 100% each time I’ve parked at the office, even when I only worked for a half-day. There are dozens of charging networks around the country and Europe. This means you might individually need to subscribe to each network to access their charging locations, which can be quite a hassle. I decided to take out a charge subscription with the ANWB, which affords me access to a wide range of chargers around the country and Europe. Although this doesn’t grant me access to every charge location, it covers a very wide range, and their app helps me identify locations, how many bays are available, what charge connection types are supported, how much it costs to charge there, etc. Being a relatively new car, at just 5 years old, it’s in very good condition. There are no dings or dents and it looks and feels as new. That said, we did have the red airbag warning light come on after a few days. The car is now booked in for a warranty repair of whatever that problem is. Otherwise, we can find no issues with the car. The car feels less spacious inside than other cars we’ve owned (our Citroen Picasso and Renault Megane were both larger vehicles on the inside). Somehow, I feel a little more enclosed in the Leaf. There is less space in the front seats than I would like. I’ve taken to placing a small towel between my right leg and the center console, as my right leg rests against the center console’s hard plastic otherwise, and it can feel a little uncomfortable after a while. After starting the car, I plug in my iPhone to use Apple’s Car Play in-car system. There’s nothing wrong with Nissan’s own in-car system, which seems nicely laid out and easy to use. I’ve just become accustomed to using Car Play in other vehicles and like it. My only gripe is that it can take up to thirty seconds after switching on and plugging the USB cable into the iPhone before the Car Play interface loads and starts. That might not sound like much but that’s about 25 seconds after I wanted to drive away already, and the delay this causes is often inconvenient. I don’t want to have to operate the touchscreen after I’ve started moving, for obvious reasons. One of the Leaf Tekna's really cool features is its 360-degree camera vision. When the camera is engaged (automatically while in reverse or otherwise when pressing a button), the views from the various cameras are stitched together to depict a top-down view of the car so that you can see all around it. This ensures you don’t bump into anything when manoeuvring the car around tight spaces, and it gives you more peace of mind and confidence while reversing. The Leaf's primary fast-charging port is the CHAdeMO port. However, this standard is outgoing and being replaced by the CCS (Combined Charging System) standard. As the CCS standard slowly takes over, fewer fast chargers will have CHAdeMO. Eventually, it will be necessary to get an adapter. Currently, there are a few adapters on the market, but it is early days and they are expensive, ranging anywhere from €750 to €1100. Having an adapter will open up a lot more charging options for the Leaf, but I expect the prices to come down over time as more adapters become available and economies of scale kick in. Other nice features of the Leaf are the adaptive cruise control and lane assist. Adaptive cruise control means you can set a speed and the car will automatically adjust up and down (without going over) as required depending on whether traffic is ahead of you. If traffic in front slows down, so will the Leaf. When the traffic ahead speeds up, so will the Leaf. The lane assist will keep the Leaf in lane even during light turns. Technically, you can take your hands off the wheel, and the car will still steer itself. There are limitations. It doesn’t work for anything other than a slight bend in the road, and the system will warn you if it detects you’ve let go of the steering wheel for over a few seconds. While engaged, the cruise control warns you if you get too close to, or go over, the white road line markings. It grabs your attention with audible and physical alerts. You hear what sounds like a car horn and the steering wheel vibrates simultaneously. Nissan got this just right. Together, these warning signals grab your attention but are not so shocking as to scare the wits out of you. We have noticed that the indicated range at the start of any journey is much more optimistic than what we get in practice. When leaving my office with 100% battery charge, the car indicates a range of 255 KM. After driving 40 KM to my home, the range is indicated to be around 190 KM. Despite only driving 40 KM, the indicated range reduced by as much as 65 KM. Much of my drive home is on the motorway, where there is limited scope for capturing regenerative braking energy, but it still feels like we’re getting less than what’s promised – especially on longer trips. There is a touchscreen LCD display, but I find the resolution to be average at best. It could benefit from having a better resolution, not to mention a slightly higher placement on the dash, so we’re not having to look down at it so much. Even though the Tekna is the more premium version of the Leaf, it doesn’t have electrically operated seat adjustments for the passenger and driver seats. I really miss that. It does have a very good sound system, which we really like. That said, the Bose base unit in the boot does seem to take up some boot space. Also a missing feature is an automatic boot operation. My wife misses that feature also. Overall, we’re very happy with our 5-year-old 2020 Nissan Leaf Tekna 40 kWh. The positives outweigh the negatives by quite some margin. The car is delightful to drive. We’re thrilled with the purchase and have made a relatively seamless transition to fully electric driving.

Hi Trevor, Thank you for your input, anything helps at this point, much appreciated! All the best, Daniel

It sounds like battery strength and condition is poor. I would definitely try a new battery before proceeding to replace other parts

Have a look at the offering from AutoCom as I think this may cover the ABS

Hi folks Could anyone please tell me where we fill up the transmission fluid. Plus where to buy a van manual, has anyone converted this type of Nissan into a motor home? Any issues with rust around the roof line? And whats a good fix? Cheers Oliver

Saying hello as a new member, been a member previously, now an X Trail owner after three Qashqaiss

Hi, same issue I had. Battery is fully charged. All the lights were on but not starting. I found this in another forum I followed the advice and I worked. Hope it’ll help 🙂 Thanks Jackyboy117’s advise : ‘I turned the ignition switch to the second point just before you start the engine, I then got out the car and disconnected the negative lead and replaced straight away. Now the car started to try and start but would only make the noise. I then had to shut all doors and bonnets, turn the engine off, lock the car with the key, open the car with the key, half turn the ignition and leave for 5 mins. Once the 5 mins is up turn off the car and straight away start.’

Hi - just bought my first Nissan ... a 2008 1.6 ltr Micra K12 cc Sport convertible in silver. 3 previous owners and 116k on the clock... it was a cat n insurance write off due to light damage to boot lid and rear bumper! It runs excellently, even the intelligent key works (well most of the time - lol!) ... and the roof works perfectly, so looking forward to the summer months! A few pics the 'Micra Machine' attached. Cheers Steve!

Hi Trevor ... thanks for your kind remarks! Yes, a month of ownership and no real disasters (yet 🤣) .... the keyless entry works 100% of the time but the keyless start is a bit erratic, often resulting in the emergency key being used .... I've replaced the batteries in the fobs and used WD 40 in the barrel .. but problem still exists ... any clues? .... also the replaced the front sidelight bulbs with LED bulbs and the nearside blows almost instantly ... mystery indeed! Cheers Steve

You can pop to Halfords and get some universal coolant (pre-mixed to the correct quantity) and top up the tank However, there should be a min-max markings on the tank and should be topped to just below max when the engine is cold

Nissan note 2008 1.6 Petrol Having listened to my drive belt squealing like a strangled cat thought it best I changed it, car has done 140,000 on what I think was the original belt. First as it’s a 1.6 petrol it only has one belt, cheapest place was Halfords at £17. Next watched videos on how to change it, easy I thought, so set to work. Jacked up and on axle stand removed drivers side wheel then attacked the inner wing lining, lots of popper fittings and screws, lot of poppers broke on removal, made sure I had spares. Now I can see the drive belt, well cracked and shiny, slacked tensioner pulley bolt (13 mm) and removed the belt, easy. Checked out belt against new, all ok but could I get the new belt on, no way. Tried the tensioner pulley adjuster, this was a nightmare to get at as you cannot see it all touchy feelly, anyway the adjuster was rusted and not for moving, only option left was to remove the pulley. Cleaned it up and freed up adjuster, next challenge was to re fit the adjuster, which you have to do blind and you can only use one hand, after a lot of cursing I still couldn’t get the thing into position. Looked how to gain better access, remove the front grill and then get another pair of hands to hold the adjuster in place while I re fitted the pulley, easy. Put the new drive belt on and now with relatively easy access to the adjuster tensioned the belt. No more squealing, job took in total about three hours around two hours longer than needed. So before I do my wife’s car going to ensure the tensioner bolt is lubricated, was the main cause of the delay. Will also just remove the front grill and see if it can be changed without having to remove inner wheel arch liner. Hope my experience saves people time and effort.

Hi all thought I’d drop in before placing my first post in the hope you can help

Will do I’m booked in for next Tuesday.

Hi Tim....welcome to the Club I really like the Murano, think they should have stuck with that shape for other model designs Feel free to jump in answering any questions (especially about Nissan parts) if you would like to? Good to have you onboard!

For sale Nissan D21 stoke on Trent

Have now bought a Qashqai e-power which is great but can anyone tell me why the power lever when pushed forward mades the car go backwards and when pushed back the car goes forward? I am only a simple sailor ( retired Marine Engineer) but it has me baffled..... Davidpincombe

Hi thanks for replying. The engine runs and am not really sure about misfiring or rough running. To a trained ear you would tell in seconds but i dont know much about them and couldnt tell. I will need to check the wiring etc get a ohms metre

It may be that the previous owner had the function switched off You could ask the dealer to reinstall the function via the scan tool but this would cost Chances are it has LED lighting, if not then I would fit a bulb with a reverse beeper built in https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1313&_nkw=reverse+light+bulb+with+beeper&_sacat=131090

It was the glow plug relay bought another one and everything seems fine now thanks

Well this is its " I've saved it from the previous owner" look lol. But there are a few bits needed to get it how I want it

I must’ve hit the kerb hard and knocked the back wheel out of place. Kwik Fit re-aligned the wheel and the message has disappeared. I will book it in at Nissan to check, because the wheel isn’t fully straight.

Thankyou Trevor.it has 13 inch steels on with a 175 75 profile I think but I've found a set of 14 inch alloys from a 90's nissan I think a 100nx?? And am going to have them resprayed and 4 new proxy tyres

That's great thank you for that.

Hi, I'm Matt, just recently bought myself a Mk5 Micra Tekna 0.9 I-GT. Have a few questions about performance and a few other things around the car so look forward to having your thoughts on these in another thread! Thanks Matt

Hi Jon....welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

Thanks for your advice Trevor. ill take a look.

You should ideally change both at same time given they’re both the same age and done the same mileage.

Hi All, I naively bought a 1.6 16 plate Tekna Juke Diesel (55k Mileage) May of last year for what I thought I would need to commute to work, however working from home meant I did not need to do that. I live in the city and don't travel very often and so I've had problems with needing a new DPF , and now a clogged EGR valve and sensor, requiring a new one. Which has cost me alot of money i'd rather not spend if possible to avoid. This was my first proper car so was unaware that short distance/city driving is not ideal for a Diesel and the build up is likely my start/stop driving and short distance journeys. I've read that taking it out on the motorway every now and then is required to get it heated up and clear the carbon or whatever out from there, but can't find a rough estimate of time frame so was looking for some advice on that. TLDR: How often would you recommend taking it out to get it to high rev/high speed/high heat to keep the DPF and EGR clean? Weekly? Fortnightly? Monthly? Please also feel free to correct me if what i've read is inaccurate. Thanks

You will need to take it on a long run (say around 20 miles or so) at a moderate speed but at high revs (not 5th or 6th gear) so that the pressure builds up to break up the collection of soot in both the EGR and DPF. Try to keep the speed and revs constant so motorway is probably best and later in the evening. Keep any eye on the engine temperature but it will go slightly higher whilst trying to purge the EGR/DPF. Also, it may be accompanied by a burning smell but this is part of the process. After you finish the run, allow the engine to cool down for a period. I would aim to give the car a run at least once a week to ensure the engine does not clog up in the future

Hi just thought I’d introduce myself, I’m Steve from the north east of England. I have recently pruchased a Nissan sunny coupe 1.6 GSX 1990. I work at Nissan as well as a panel repairer. nice to meet you all 😊

Hi I have driven all sorts of vehicles cars bikes vans to articulated lorries. I have also driven electric vehicles before so it was not an issue, the issue was going to be around regular charging at home. My local and county council are stating the have no plans in the foreseeable future to install charging at the roadside in residential areas for people without access to off road parking. Their view is they want local residents to use public transport rather than their own vehicles so it looks like a backdoor way to force people out of having their own cars. I took the issue up with my local MP who also happens to be the secretary of state for transport. I had a dace to face meeting with him pointed out the councils proposed plans and informed him that 23% of the local vehicle owners were being prevented from taking up electric vehicle use. He appeared quite interested in the points I raised and said he would look at what action he could take to assist in the matter. Then some weeks latter like all good politicians he contacted me by email providing all the information and figures I had already given him indicating there was nothing he could do. I will now stay with an ICE vehicle for as long as I can before maybe then switching to hydrogen fuel cell vehicles if they materialise as they will be a better choice for people without access to off road parking.

Hi....welcome to the Club Two things come to mind... 1. Crankshaft Sensor which looks for rotation of the crankshaft which will signal the Engine Management System (EMS) and give the command to fuel and spark dependent on engine speed. If this is faulty (usually when hot and the resistance changes) then this can cut the engine and start when cooled down. 2. Throttle Body adaptation which is adjustable using a scan tool. A lot of times this comes down to carbon build up and benefits from cleaning which gives a constant smooth idle speed A scan of the EMS should give stored fault codes which lead to a more precise diagnosis Let us know how you get on with it all

Sadly not! We had to pay the cost of replacement Clutch of £1800 plus an AA report of £200. The AA sent ACE (Automotive Consulting Engineers Ltd) to carry out the inspection which concluded that the Clutch had over heated which caused the failure. No suggestion as to cause other than abuse and referred to Towing in the report which did not mention that there is not a Tow Bar on the car! The report appeared to me to have a large element of "cut and paste" about it. I tried to contact ACE for more details of the inspection but they did not respond I contacted Nissan and asked if they could Inspect the components and the Dual Mass Fly Wheel, they declined and suggested I look on the Internet to find someone to inspect it but could not suggest anyone. The Nissan "Adviser" declined to discuss the matter any further with me and refused to put through to a Manager. We reject the suggestion that we "ride" the clutch as there is adequate spec by the clutch pedal to rest the foot and we have suddenly become bad drivers. I took legal advise and my Solicitor advised that we could become involved in a costly dispute. We are left with a car that my wife is reluctant to drive as she has lost faith in it. We ask ourselves three questions. Would we buy another Nissan, would we recommend a friend to buy a Nissan and are we satisfied with Nissan's Customer Care? NO, NO, ABSOLUTELY NOT.

Nissan Micra K12 Throttle Body Removal and Clean Welcome to this guide on how to remove and clean the throttle body on a Nissan Micra K12. This procedure was done on a 1.2 2003 petrol model. As I couldn't find a good tutorial on this process I thought I would have a go myself and then put together this guide for other people. The process is actually relatively straight forward once you know how. I was experiencing juddering at certain points on the rev range and when the car was in a certain gear, MPG had decreased plus some hunting when the car was idle. So I decided that I would clean the throttle body to see if that would help. I actually didn't know exactly where the throttle body was located on this model. It's actually located under the air intake box/top manifolds which are shown below. It's actually located inside and under the top of the plastic manifold housing. Once you have removed the throttle body you will realise that it's actually connected to one of the electrical connections on the top of the housing that you will need to disconnect as part of this process. Throttle body location This is where the throttle body is location on a 2003 1.2 petrol Nissan Micra K12. Tools required This is a list of tools and other items required to get to the throttle body, remove it from the housing and then clean it: Pliers or grips 10 mm socket Ratchet Toothbrush or cotton buds and an old but clean cloth A good carb/throttle body cleaner The process So here are the steps. Step 1 - Remove the air intake and air filter box Remove the air intake pipe (highlighted by the red arrow) by removing the plastic lugs that hold it to the front of the engine bay and then remove the other end from the air filter housing on the right. I had to slightly twist mine and then gave it a hard pull to detach it. Then remove the air filter housing from the manifold housing. Do this by unclipping the metal retaining clips (highlighted in blue in the image below) located on the front and the right side of the housing. There are only two clips that hold this in place. They simply unclip upwards and one remains connected to the top housing and the other remains connected to the air filter box. Once you have unclipped the air filter housing the front of it may drop away from you. It should not fall off completely as the back is held in place by the box being slid into holders in the back of the top housing. To remove the air filter box simply push the front down and when it's at a certain point pull the air filter housing towards you. This will pull it out of the rear mounts. Try to look at the rears mounts when you do this so that you can be sure you pushed it down enough to be able to pull it forward without snapping the plastic mounts on the back of the top housing. You should see this when the air filter housing has been dropped away from the top housing. The air filter itself may have stuck to the underside of the top housing like mine did so just pull it off and place to one side. I would suggest replacing it with a new filter whilst you are doing this as you will have to put it back in when you reassemble. Now just slide the air filter housing out of the engine bay so that you can continue. You will see this. Step 2 - Disconnect Electrical Connectors Disconnect the three electrical connectors as highlighted in red. The one to the left of the top housing is the actual throttle body connector. Once the one in the middle of the top housing is unplugged, make sure you gentle pull it out of the recess that the rest of the cable lies within and gently push it to one side out of the way. Do not just pull these connectors as they are made from plastic and will snap. They all have a small tab which needs to be depressed at the same time as gently pulling them. Do not pull them too hard as they do not need it. They will disconnect very easily if the tab is pressed whilst pulling them. Step 3 - Disconnect Breather Pipes/Hoses Disconnect the two breather hoses/pipes as highlighted in red. You will need to use a pair of pliers to release the retaining clips that hold the end of the pipes tightly sealed in place. Just squeeze the release arms on the retaining clips with the pliers and slide the retaining clips along the pipes until they are free of the housing connector. Now just gentle pull the hoses/pipes off the housing connectors. Again, you do not need to pull these hard. They should just slide off with a light pressure. Remove the centre hose from the recess in the top housing and push it out of the way. You should now see something like the image below. All electrical connectors have been disconnected and the hoses disconnected. I took this picture before I had moved the centre hose out of the way so you shouldn't have this in place at this stage. Next remove the breather hose mount, shown below, from the top housing. If you don't remove this you will not be able to remove the top housing completely if you leave the rear hose attached. Alternatively, you could leave it bolted on and just remove the other hose from it and then remove the top housing with the mount attached. I just unbolted it and pushed it out of the way so I didn't damage it. Once you've removed the mount then it should look like the image below. Just move it gently out of the way so that it doesn't interfere when you remove the top housing. Step 4 - Remove Top Housing You can now remove the top housing by simply removing the bolts highlighted in red in the below images. They are all 10 mm. Remove the three front bolts. Remove the two bolts on the left rear of the housing. Remove the two bolts on the right rear of the housing. Once the seven bolts have been removed you can simply pull the top of the housing up towards you and it should separate from the bottom section of the housing. Warning: Do not pull this top section up too hard. You should be able to just pull it up with a little force. The top section is attached to plastic manifold inlet pipes toward the rear and they are pretty much held on by O rings. Try to pull the top section of the housing up towards you in a straight motion. Try not to bend it as you pull it up. It should come off fairly easily. Warning: This top section actually contains the throttle body itself so take care. Do not just drop it to one side as you may damage the throttle body that you are about to clean - if you are not replacing the throttle body itself of course. You should now see the image below once the top section is removed. Step 5 - Remove Throttle Body From Top Housing Once you've pulled off the top housing turn it over to see the location of the throttle body. Simply remove the three bolts that are highlighted in red in the image below. They are 10mm so just use the same socket you used to remove the top housing bolts. Once you have removed the three bolts you can now remove the whole throttle body. The throttle body is now only held in by the top of the electrical connector on the outside of the top housing. It's a bit tight so just pull the throttle body towards you whilst wiggling it slightly as the rubber seal is a little tight. Don't put too much force as you might snap the plastic top housing. You should now see the housing like this once the throttle body has been removed. Step 6 - Clean The Throttle Body To clean the throttle body I used a small headed toothbrush, some clean rag and a good carb / throttle body cleaner. Warning: Carefully follow the instructions on the carb cleaner. Do this work in a well ventilated area, preferably outside and wear a suitable breathing mask. Take extreme care not to inhale the fumes from this cleaner or the dirt that it removes from the throttle body. I used the following carb cleaner which is available from a well known parts store for about £8. This was the state of my throttle body when I got it out. It was really clogged up and clearly sticking. Simply attach the small pipe to the can of carb cleaner and then spray into and around the inside of the intake of the throttle body and all over the butterfly valve. Then just brush the whole of the inside of the intake (front and back) and butterfly valve with the toothbrush and/or rag. The dirt should come off quite easily as the carb cleaner is really effective. Keep doing this until the intake and butterfly valve are as clean as you can get them. Keep wiping off any residue with a good clean rag as well as you do this. After about 10 minutes of cleaning I had a nice clean throttle body as shown below. Yours should look pretty similar when complete. Step 7 - Refit Your Throttle Body And Reassemble Other Parts Warning: Before refitting your cleaned throttle body you should ensure that the throttle body is dry and does not contain any residue from the cleaning agent. I left my throttle body to completely dry for about an hour or so just to be extra cautious before proceeding with refitting. Refitting your throttle body and reassembly is just really this guide in reverse from step 5 back to step 1. Warning: Take care when reattaching the top of the housing to the bottom and the intake pipes as they have O rings present. Ensure that they are correctly aligned before pushing the top housing down into place. Be careful not to pinch or tear the O rings. If it's tight to refit over the O rings then either replace the O rings or simply apply a small smear of engine oil around the O rings which should help refit the top housing. Warning: Do not over tighten the bolts that hold the throttle body in place or the top housing. Warning: Once you have reassembled everything it is a good idea to just double check that all the breather hoses are reattached and secured in place and that all the electrical connectors are attached securely. You should now be able to start the car and test accordingly. If this process has been successful then you should have a smoother throttle response and possibly more accurate. Mine stopped juddering at certain revs and seemed so much more responsive. I am also now getting much better fuel economy.