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I had the same problem radio cutting off there is a fee upgrade from nissan now work perfectly it's a common problem

mostly timing chains are reliable if the correct servicing and maintenance is carried out when its specified and using quality oils and filters Please let us know how it goes !

Nissan are looking into my new car that was not giving the advertised range of 759 miles on delivery as they said it should (only giving 660 a 100 mile discrepancy. Car delivered with full fuel tank and only delivery mileage of 10 miles). second tank fill still only 660 range. Awaiting their investigation!

Hallo den habe ich erfolgreich eingebaut: L7808 Spannungsregler 8V DC gruss Michael

Ok. I did buy some oil recently im just waiting on the filter and sump bolt to arrive from euro car parts. Ill try not to drive it as much until it arrives. thanks Also are these known issues with these cars? I dont really know much about them because I wasn't so interested in them at first.

hi Because I am very happy owner of Nissan Cima 2010 VIP model I imported another Nissan ..now classic 1994(late model from September) very rare with Automatic ACTSUS system. and here is a little clip with my Nissan. NEAR all works as it's looks .I need help with 2 things. Im pretty sure all 4 gas spheres( similar to Citroen with hydroactive suspension )dont have enough Nitrogen pressure and Im looking to buy 4 speheres after regeneration or refuel mine. And second problem Im trying to find Consult in my car and REALLy cant..I spoke 2 days with 2 different AI and they are giving me excluding answers. I found some of this car models DONT HAVE it.. AT ALL- I dont have any problem - nothing flash but I want to have possibility to diagnose my car if anything happend.Would be nice if some one of You have more experience with this BEAUTY and can help me. Here is How its look: here is small clip with my BEAUTY NISSAN

When I had this i thought it was a phone or car setting. Can't really remember but I did get it to stop by altering which ever setting it was.

Hey guys, not sure if this is the right place to post "for sale". Sorry about that. I'm selling my 1 owner Pathfinder SE. 70,125 miles. Engine and trans in perfect running condition. Does need a SAS and flex plate. I have all service/oil change receipts. Asking $4500 neg.

Thanks for that info Trevor.

So, here's the saga. Offside Drum collapsed inside, my fault- long story. Anyway, new drums, studs, bearings, shoes, spring kit purchased, but could I find an ABS ring for the pixo anywhere? Nope! Eventually, Vertu Nissan offered me 2 rings for £201!!! Bought 2 used drums, cleaned/painted and fitted. ABS light turned off 👍 Moral of the story: Parts like this are becoming very difficult to get. Also, does anyone have any ABS rings? I have 2 brand new drums, with new bearings pressed in and ready to. They'll need the fings fitted, obviously. You can have them both for £50 plus whatever the p&p will be Tony

Exact same thing just happened to me this weekend, car just stopped with no warning! I'm going to try and claim through my finance company claiming a breach of my consumer rights but i'm not hopeful. Looking online it seems the problem is endemic!

Hi everyone Just joined, so saying hi from sunny Brighton. I have recently purchased a Nissan Qashqai (2010) model and loving it so far jay316

Hi, welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

its amazing how powerful the media can be in resolving such issues with manufacturers - keep trying as you may get a good outcome

I purchased a new X Trail 1.5 VC-T TEKNA e4orce on 29th July 2024 within 6 months after car had not been driven for a week battery was flat. Battery changed by garage this has happened 3 times. Seems static electricity is draining battery so an earth strap has been installed by garage. Seems to have done the trick but is this common on new hybrid cars? Garage not getting much info from Nissan.

Many thanks for this. Really helpful reply. Greg

i've just purchaced a used 2018 Qashqai. It has a 1.2-litre engine. This is the smallest engine I have ever had in my previous cars. But must admit it drove well on my test drive, and is in excellent nick, body & interior, so decided to get it. But just have this nagging doubt in my head about the engine, will it last as well as other larger engines? Although I see it has a timing chain (not belt). I guess that's a plus. Will look forward to reading through the posts on here. Cheers Bob

thanks admin. I'll take some pics, and post later. Any views on the 1.2 engines?

Just taking a sec to say Hello, Just bought a Nissan Micra K12 1.2 2008 for my daughter.

I have experienced something very similar. On researching a "fix" I found that holding down the central on/off/volume button for 10 seconds will reset the system.

Hello I am looking for a Nissan SD25 Diesil engine which is out of a Nissan 20 Forklift. I am told the same engine was used in Nissan Cabstar and Nissan Bluebird vehicles in the 1980s. Our currant engine has a hole in the block so I am looking for a good block or a complete engine. Many thanks Colin

I had the 1 litre engine in my last Juke. Its turbocharged so there is no loss of power. I now have a 1.6 Hybrid which is more cost effective especially around urban areas.

Hi all new to the group just wanted go introduce myself. I’m Adam and I’m in North Yorkshire I have a 02 Nissan 350z that I was recently given by my dad as it’s been sat for 2yrs. it had a little work done before it got parked up but it still needs a bit of love. tell me what you think.

Hi there new to the forum and on the look for a nice well looked after 350z and wanting to see what if anything might be about. Many thanks in advance

Sounds like water ingress into the electronics or sensors (not sure how deep the water was). If it is allowed to dry out in the sun then possibly it may work then.

My thoughts exactly. I’m thinking that the 05-12 Pathfinder LE’s, when in 2WD, do not have the front transfer case engaged at all. There’s no hub lock or unlock on these. Unless selecting 4WD is what you’re referring to by manually locking the hubs. AWD is a confusing on this vehicle. I don’t think that the hubs are technically locked, but they’re obviously engaged, and the drive is put to the front by “The System” when it senses “Slip” I guess. And if your front tires are mismatched, it might sense slip continuously. I guess that I could put the truck up on the lift, start it and engage “Drive”(2WD), and just see what’s spinning. I would assume that the forward drive shaft always spins, but that the transfer case is not engaged. Another way would probably be to put on the new front tire on the front paired with the used front tire and go drive. If it’s a problem, the “VDC” and “Slip” lights would probably come on.

My brother once owned a 1984 Nissan Pulsar, silver colored and I believe it had an automatic transmission. I'm now retired and wondering where could I find a very nice, low mile, garaged, nice example of a first generation Pulsar NX ? I'm sure I will learn the meaning of patience as it could take years to find a truly nice condition low mile Pulsar of that era. I do keep an eye out generally on internet but hoping there are specific places, such as car clubs? events where these kinds of cars gather? My guess is they are not considered collectable and probably most have rusted away in wrecking yards by now.

I owned a couple of Quashqais through 2010 - 2016 then switched to Toyota for hybrid drive. I went back to Nissan in December 2024 and purchased a Juke Hybrid. I'm happy with the high and safe-feeling drive of the car but a bit disenchanted with some features I find irritating. In particular the Nissan Connect Data Transmission screen which requires accept or decline every time I start up. Nobody seems to have found a way to disable this. Lots of audible warnings - though I sense most new cars have this now. Anyway, I look forward to putting a few miles on the clock this year. Happy to be here and I'll keep an eye out for useful tips.

Howdy all.. thanks for the add..

Thanks bloke, nice to be welcomed and pleased to be standing 😉 I haven't even looked through your forum but I'm guessing you're a street car forum,?.. I'm 4x4, although I did own a Datsun "shovel nose" back in the day 🙂 know a little of the early KA series... but I'm here looking for information on differentials.. C200 in the Nissan Navaras in Aust..

Hi Mike, I have a completely stock 350z for sale. Are you still on the search for a well maintained one? thanks, Fred.

I wasn’t planning on buying a Nissan Leaf. I was only vaguely aware it was an option. We had been contemplating a fully electric car for a while, but were torn between a smaller vehicle and a larger one with a significant towing capacity. It was a toss-up between a Tesla Model Y as the larger option or something else as the smaller option, but we didn’t know what the something else would be. We stumbled into the local Nissan dealer while out window-shopping for cars recently, and they showed us three used Nissan Leafs they had in stock. After many questions with the dealer and a test drive, we bought the 2020 Nissan Leaf Tekna 40 kWh, subject to financing. I spent the next few days researching all I could about the car and organising financing and insurance. A week after the initial test drive, we drove the shiny new toy off the lot and took it home. This is our first fully electric vehicle. I previously had a non-plugin hybrid, so I was familiar with regenerative braking. However, driving a fully electric car is a different experience, so there would be a learning curve. The first and most apparent difference in the driving experience is the buttery smooth transition between accelerating and decelerating and the equally jolt-free transition from stationary to moving and from moving to stationary. Pulling up to a traffic light or otherwise coming to a complete stop is smooth, with no engine vibration, no jolt from a change in gears, etc. It’s an absolute joy to drive. The Nissan Leaf has an ePedal feature. This feature must be manually engaged when you start the car using a pull switch in the centre console near the gear stick. When engaged, the car maximises regenerative braking. Usually, when you press a car’s brake pedal, the car’s forward momentum is arrested as brake pads heat up through friction. All the car’s forward momentum energy is transferred to the brake pads' heating, so it’s lost as heat energy. When you lift your foot from the accelerator while the ePedal feature is engaged, the Leaf’s motor instantly becomes a generator. This happens each time the car slows down while driving, which can be quite often if you are in the city or the journey is primarily stop and go. All the car’s forward momentum is captured as energy used to charge the battery for as long as you’re braking. The transition from motor (using energy from the battery) to generator (putting energy into the battery) is instant and seamless. The more stop and go and braking (lifting your foot from the accelerator), the more energy is reclaimed and put back into the battery. Where the difference in driving experience is noticeable between the Leaf and a regular ICE (Internal Combustion Engine) car, is that the braking effect from just lifting your foot off the accelerator is considerably more acute – especially when ePedal is engaged. In other words, the car slows down much faster than you might otherwise expect. It takes a bit of getting used to. I love the ePedal, but my wife doesn’t. I do have to remember to engage the ePedal feature each time. Sometimes I forget, and then engage it after I’ve started moving the car, such as reversing out of the garage. The car then almost immediately comes to a complete stop due to the braking effect, so I’m still getting used to this. Range anxiety, or the fear of running out of battery charge at inconvenient times, is a genuine concern. Although the fear is real, we’ve not encountered any actual issues in practice. The car has three charging options, each associated with one of two different charging connectors under the small flap in front of the bonnet. When unlatched, either by pressing the button on the key fob or the button on a panel to the left of the steering wheel, the flap can be raised to reveal the two charging ports. The one on the left is the CHAdeMO charging port for fast charging (up to 50 kW). When at a fast charging station, you connect the cable physically and permanently attached to the charge pole into this slot. The charging port on the right side is for AC charging. Two cables come with the car for use with this slower AC charging port. One has a regular household plug on the end, which you use to plug the car in at home. That will give you a trickle charge (2.3 kW) which is relatively slow and typically requires the car to be plugged in overnight to charge the battery fully from near empty. The other is for charging faster at paid locations while out and about (6.6 kW). It’s slower than the CHAdeMO fast charger but fast enough to give you a decent charge after a couple of hours, such as while out shopping or at a restaurant. The CHAdeMO charger could take me from 15% to 80% in about half an hour. While researching the car, before I had paid for it, I learned that getting a battery SOH (State Of Health) report was prudent. Fortunately, the Nissan dealer accommodated this request and provided me with the report. In my case, the report showed the battery was still at 100% health. If the battery health deteriorates below a certain threshold after a certain period, the warranty kicks in and you can have the battery replaced under the warranty. As my Leaf is only 5 years old and came with just 18,500 KM, I did not expect any significant degradation. Using a dongle and a smartphone app called LeafSpy, you can extract detailed telemetry from the car, which provides much more in-depth insights into the vehicle’s usage, battery charging history, etc. I have yet to dive into that. The two charging cables that come with the car are heavy duty, and not the easiest to fold away tidily into the pocket on the inside of the boot. Life with a fully electric car now involves the logistics of managing these cables, taking them out and wrapping them away again after each charge session, etc. We’ve left the AC charger with the household plug permanently plugged in to a socket in the garage, so it’s always conveniently placed to plug in when the car is in the garage. However, it only just reaches. The cable is 5m long. The car itself is 4.5m long. Using extension cords is ill advised for various reasons, so having a plug socket adjacent to where the car is parked while charging is a consideration. You can find out how much charge the battery has at any point from the dashboard while the car is turned on, but there is also a Nissan smartphone app called NissanConnect EV, which you can use to access that information remotely. The car periodically communicates charging telemetry with Nissan’s computing cloud. The app then reads that data from the cloud to provide you updates. We’ve found this slow and the app somewhat buggy and limited. There’s another app called My Leaf. That’s marginally better but still quite slow to refresh and display updated information. With both apps, the information is never immediately at your fingertips – there’s always an annoying delay getting the refreshed data. Our experience with charging while out and about has been a little hit and miss. Our local McDonald’s has a charging pole from Vattenfall. There are two bays and three charging cable types. I’ve attempted to use it twice. Both times I’ve been able to park and hook up, but one time there was a message on the screen indicating there was no power available. I called the number listed and spoke to a real person, but they said they could do nothing since it was outside of regular office hours. The other time it worked perfectly, and I charged from 15% to 80% by the time I finished my meal. Fortunately, my employer provides free charging for electric vehicles. I’ve been able to charge my vehicle to 100% each time I’ve parked at the office, even when I only worked for a half-day. There are dozens of charging networks around the country and Europe. This means you might individually need to subscribe to each network to access their charging locations, which can be quite a hassle. I decided to take out a charge subscription with the ANWB, which affords me access to a wide range of chargers around the country and Europe. Although this doesn’t grant me access to every charge location, it covers a very wide range, and their app helps me identify locations, how many bays are available, what charge connection types are supported, how much it costs to charge there, etc. Being a relatively new car, at just 5 years old, it’s in very good condition. There are no dings or dents and it looks and feels as new. That said, we did have the red airbag warning light come on after a few days. The car is now booked in for a warranty repair of whatever that problem is. Otherwise, we can find no issues with the car. The car feels less spacious inside than other cars we’ve owned (our Citroen Picasso and Renault Megane were both larger vehicles on the inside). Somehow, I feel a little more enclosed in the Leaf. There is less space in the front seats than I would like. I’ve taken to placing a small towel between my right leg and the center console, as my right leg rests against the center console’s hard plastic otherwise, and it can feel a little uncomfortable after a while. After starting the car, I plug in my iPhone to use Apple’s Car Play in-car system. There’s nothing wrong with Nissan’s own in-car system, which seems nicely laid out and easy to use. I’ve just become accustomed to using Car Play in other vehicles and like it. My only gripe is that it can take up to thirty seconds after switching on and plugging the USB cable into the iPhone before the Car Play interface loads and starts. That might not sound like much but that’s about 25 seconds after I wanted to drive away already, and the delay this causes is often inconvenient. I don’t want to have to operate the touchscreen after I’ve started moving, for obvious reasons. One of the Leaf Tekna's really cool features is its 360-degree camera vision. When the camera is engaged (automatically while in reverse or otherwise when pressing a button), the views from the various cameras are stitched together to depict a top-down view of the car so that you can see all around it. This ensures you don’t bump into anything when manoeuvring the car around tight spaces, and it gives you more peace of mind and confidence while reversing. The Leaf's primary fast-charging port is the CHAdeMO port. However, this standard is outgoing and being replaced by the CCS (Combined Charging System) standard. As the CCS standard slowly takes over, fewer fast chargers will have CHAdeMO. Eventually, it will be necessary to get an adapter. Currently, there are a few adapters on the market, but it is early days and they are expensive, ranging anywhere from €750 to €1100. Having an adapter will open up a lot more charging options for the Leaf, but I expect the prices to come down over time as more adapters become available and economies of scale kick in. Other nice features of the Leaf are the adaptive cruise control and lane assist. Adaptive cruise control means you can set a speed and the car will automatically adjust up and down (without going over) as required depending on whether traffic is ahead of you. If traffic in front slows down, so will the Leaf. When the traffic ahead speeds up, so will the Leaf. The lane assist will keep the Leaf in lane even during light turns. Technically, you can take your hands off the wheel, and the car will still steer itself. There are limitations. It doesn’t work for anything other than a slight bend in the road, and the system will warn you if it detects you’ve let go of the steering wheel for over a few seconds. While engaged, the cruise control warns you if you get too close to, or go over, the white road line markings. It grabs your attention with audible and physical alerts. You hear what sounds like a car horn and the steering wheel vibrates simultaneously. Nissan got this just right. Together, these warning signals grab your attention but are not so shocking as to scare the wits out of you. We have noticed that the indicated range at the start of any journey is much more optimistic than what we get in practice. When leaving my office with 100% battery charge, the car indicates a range of 255 KM. After driving 40 KM to my home, the range is indicated to be around 190 KM. Despite only driving 40 KM, the indicated range reduced by as much as 65 KM. Much of my drive home is on the motorway, where there is limited scope for capturing regenerative braking energy, but it still feels like we’re getting less than what’s promised – especially on longer trips. There is a touchscreen LCD display, but I find the resolution to be average at best. It could benefit from having a better resolution, not to mention a slightly higher placement on the dash, so we’re not having to look down at it so much. Even though the Tekna is the more premium version of the Leaf, it doesn’t have electrically operated seat adjustments for the passenger and driver seats. I really miss that. It does have a very good sound system, which we really like. That said, the Bose base unit in the boot does seem to take up some boot space. Also a missing feature is an automatic boot operation. My wife misses that feature also. Overall, we’re very happy with our 5-year-old 2020 Nissan Leaf Tekna 40 kWh. The positives outweigh the negatives by quite some margin. The car is delightful to drive. We’re thrilled with the purchase and have made a relatively seamless transition to fully electric driving.

HELLO MEMBERS, can any one help please, I have a Nissan Ebro Camper van 1985, I think its the only one left in the UK? I am trying to locate replacement head lamps ? I hope someone out there can assist? many thanks David

Hi Trevor, Thank you for your input, anything helps at this point, much appreciated! All the best, Daniel

Thank you Trevor for this guidance. I shall follow your advice and update you in due course. Fingers crossed 🤞 Wayne

Smashed my Kia and insurance gave me a Juke. 2 weeks in and I like it. It is a manual (the Kia was auto) but not a problem. It has a few annoying bongs and dings. It does seem to struggle a bit . The Dash says 4 but when you change up it struggles, Likewise in all gears . You need a few mph higher before you change. Otherwise it is fun to drive. Not sure why it had drive modes. I have tried all 3 but there doesn't seem to be any difference. I like the higher driving position. Seat belts are difficult to grab and fix. Seats are comfortable. Got it for another week before my car get's fixed. I will certainly look at the Juke when I replace the Kia but need an HeV.

Possibly but the more I have driven it the more annoying all the bings and bongs have become. It maybe just that it is a rental but the radio is frankly crap. Can't find stations or when it does won't follow them on long journeys as frequencies change. This is true on the FM and DAB. The SatNav isn't interactive unlike my Kia so no notice of traffic, roadworks or road closures. The speed monitoring is pretty up and down with it registering the wrong speed limit about 50% of the time resulting in more bings and bongs it it thinks the limit is lower than it really is. These are irritations because I like the higher driving position and the vision. The seats are comfy and plenty of room for a car of it's size. Getting up to about 1200 miles now. My car is still in dock. When I get it back I shall be looking for a replacement. The Juke will be on the list to look at but I would need an HeV.

My Adblue light came on just before Christmas, it jumped from 1500 miles to 750 miles to 384 miles within seconds. I filled up but the light remained on and did not reset. I put some specialist cleaner in the Adblue tank to clear any crystallisation that may have taken place. That did not resolve it. It has therefore gone to the garage. They have called advising there is an Adblue update they need to put on the car, I am assuming that relates to the onboard computer. That makes no sense why the other would happen. Anyone had a similar experience. I am waiting for a call back to see if that resolves the issue but it doesn't sound right.

Hi Trevor thank you yes looks a bit tricky. Not in a rush to buy but keeping a look out 🤞

Thank you...just a thought, maybe on my next car.

Yes correct! replaced the battery - all sorted - never seen a car react like that just for low battery - weird!

It sounds like battery strength and condition is poor. I would definitely try a new battery before proceeding to replace other parts

Thank you Trevor, much appreciated, I would consider putting bigger wheels on it, but looking at the lump it so much reminds me of the Terrano 2.7 lump, part of me wants to get hold of one to see id it fits! I have gone down that road years ago when younger, But I also recall those small differences which take a week each to conquer! I'm less patient than I used to be and ache quicker!👍

Thanks - I got a new primer pump and it didn't help at all. I could try a new filter, but I did change that one recently.

Maybe it is the same sensor part number if the lead is long enough to reach - that is assuming it has a B sensor.....if you do find another there, change the plugs over to the A sensor and see if the fault transfers to A sensor

Hi....welcome to the Club I'm not entirely sure if there is a 'bolt on' to add an extra gear or how you could go about adapting anything to fit. However, you may be able to play with the gear ratios in the final drive or even the rolling diameter of the wheels/tyres to affect the mph to revs range

Hi, new on here. Driving a 2020 plate Navara D23 N-guard and hope to get a few pointers on here 😁

The vanes are located inside the turbo and can be cleaned using a cleaning solution in situ https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292459335127?_skw=turbo+cleaner&itmmeta=01JC60BMWEXRSD20EMHAM2ZFK6&hash=item4417ef4dd7:g:wcwAAOSwvShajqeM&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKlEsMwj%2F9Rwy31LfWXY0vu7JPmLf9xI%2B%2BMMJNw2%2BBAV%2FAzGfwovr4g0y%2B3nTHJ4Prps1SHhzuT%2Ff2g2nWknOStqIPX6QYXX8mYiOwrPQZg0rCbLgkZPxW2e%2Bb%2FYuW1DwD1hTh1Pxnmpzlv3q%2Bmbox0A19ibnfkcrcj6SmcyxcJgPmsnqSNrib3vGE5upPP8XDzI8lnokXOTc44%2FUuHtUlQmJoH0yyaUgDzXcWukxhKo4OnzBu0ua0dem9Pz9hohvhw%3D|tkp%3ABlBMUKrOrsDhZA

The NOX sensor B is measuring against NOX sensor A (B is usually behind A in the exhaust system) and if there is an exhaust leak then this could cause the issue

Hi Chris This sounds like the baring in the banana arm on my 350Z.