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  1. Hi all! Im thinking of getting a Pathfinder in the next month or two. Wanted something bigger for going fishing/camping and always loved the look of the Pathfinder. Especially the older shape (07/08 models). Has anyone got a rot free one with upgraded timing chain they are thinking of parting with? Thanks in advance 🤘🏻🙂 Harry
    2 points
  2. Hi everyone.new to the forum Just thought I'd start with a question as everyone does lol. I have a 95 sunny sequel which is currently sitting on steel wheels and I need ideas help as to what wheels will fit it
    1 point
  3. Thankyou.shes got wheels now! I am trying to keep it as period as possible
    1 point
  4. Hi Trevor, blasting didn't work so took it to the local Nissan Dealership. They identified a problem with the Ad-blue system and replaced the tank and pump on warranty. Did a great job. 👍
    1 point
  5. Hi Trevor, thanks for this. Ended up buying the car yesterday, 2.0L Qashqai+2 Acenta. Drives real smooth, lovely and quiet, decent power, overall, very happy with it. One thing my wife has ordered is a new gear know as the other has worn - are these easy to replace? Gear knobs of old simply screwed off, but this has the lift handle for reverse, and I'm wondering how much trouble this may cause?
    1 point
  6. Hi, new to forum. I've just bought a 72 plate nsport and am wondering if anyone can suggest a reliable wireless phone charger that works with an android phone and fits nice in front of the changer where the USB slot is Thanks in advance
    1 point
  7. Thankyou Trevor.it has 13 inch steels on with a 175 75 profile I think but I've found a set of 14 inch alloys from a 90's nissan I think a 100nx?? And am going to have them resprayed and 4 new proxy tyres
    1 point
  8. You've no doubt got this sorted Felicity, but just in case you haven't, I recently bought a set of 2 for my 2010 R51 for $79.00 NZ, from Broughmach Auto in Australia. Free postage and arrived in 6 days. The company has good reviews.
    1 point
  9. Would any one like to swap their GTR for my 350z…one lady owner, never drifted
    1 point
  10. Hi any advice tips for this model just purchased August 2022 Scotland. I am always willing to give a go simple small Car owner maintenance weekly jobs but due disability strictly no DIY or heavy lifting Spinal problems. Positively driving this Car first time ever today it fitted like a glove never had any Car like that and after nearly a year of not having a car great! I could sing notes hah!
    1 point
  11. Hi, I'm Matt, just recently bought myself a Mk5 Micra Tekna 0.9 I-GT. Have a few questions about performance and a few other things around the car so look forward to having your thoughts on these in another thread! Thanks Matt
    1 point
  12. A 2000 Nissan Sunny saved our life in a rear impact crash 80 miles per hour whilst staionary in a queue hit 4 timesi understand because of rear bulkheads being strong and protecting the Petrol Tank area.
    1 point
  13. hi same has just happened to my note been looking on ebay for replacement are the ones listed for nissan juke the same? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204000681743
    1 point
  14. I would recommend getting something like a silicon hose which would be stronger and cheap to buy by the length Try Demon Tweeks as they have a good range of hoses
    1 point
  15. Hi all Recently bought a Murano 2.5 petrol Z51 Engine 2009. Looking forward to picking some brains here and sharing my knowledge too. I live in Auckland and have bought a Japanese import, very common here. It's a great car but am sure I'll have some questions soon! Cheers Nick
    1 point
  16. I have had the car checked and there are no issues. It appears to be a fault with the app and Nissan are looking into it.
    1 point
  17. We have a Juke in the family and the clutch is also quite lively and takes a few more revs to keep things smooth when pulling away
    1 point
  18. Hi, I’ve recently purchased my Qashqai and was wondering if anybody else has been using one of these for towing? would really like to speak with like minded people who have towed with a car like mine. cheers jon.
    1 point
  19. Hello, I believe if you put the town in that box, rather than the postcode, it will then let you input the road and then the door number in the other boxes. I hope this helps.
    1 point
  20. Hi I am chris I got nissan qashqai 2014 1.5dci have had it for 3 years red have done some mods on it great car love it best car I have in a long while do most of my own work on it also
    1 point
  21. Hi Luke.....welcome to the Club I would say you are correct that it is the antenna and as far as I am aware it would not need coding to the vehicle as it does not generate or hold the immobilise code (the ECU would have that information) it simply amplifies the signal from the immobiliser chip in the key fob
    1 point
  22. Hi is anyone able to advise where I can get oem Gt edition side decals? Like eBay and other places online advertising 370 accessories these decals they offer just seem to be Ali express stuff and the decals do not fit,the writing is to long,I expected maybe poorer quality but not the actual writing itself to be the wrong size lol. Thanks in advance for any replies.
    1 point
  23. Hi everyone, greetings from Denmark and thanks for membership. I´m here for tips and tricks, hope I can get some and give some. My car is a Micra K13 facelift
    1 point
  24. Thanks, very nice being here 👍
    1 point
  25. Hi I have a set of Dynamic (led) wing mirror repeaters for sale. Brand new never fitted cost £15:85 selling for £13 plus p&p. 1 full set of Mud Flaps brand new never fitted cost £18:85 selling for £16 plus p&p. Thet are for a 2015 J11 model qashqai. If this post is not allowed sorry and please remove.
    1 point
  26. Yes Trevor we will there is a place and they have different lengths I'll find the web site over weekend
    1 point
  27. Thank You. I have used Eurocarparts a few times in the past but they aren't as cheap as they used to be even with their constant discounts. Case in point, I recently needed an Indicator Bulb for my Astra Estate, its not a Normal bulb it's fitted in a holder you buy as part of it. It's a Bosch Bulb and Eurocarparts wanted £32, I found the same Bosch Bulb online for half the price. I do try to use Quality Branded Parts For Servicing and a Good Quality Oil for Oil Changes. Buy cheap and pay twice unfortunately
    1 point
  28. These issues sound a lot like software problems of the actually audio unit. Nissan do run software updates but you have to visit a dealer and request it. The update usually fixes issues such as Bluetooth connectivity issues, calibration and restarting issues. If problems persist however then you’re looking at audio unit replacement which I think are fixed in France.
    1 point
  29. You should ideally change both at same time given they’re both the same age and done the same mileage.
    1 point
  30. Common fault on Qashqai is condenser failure. Perhaps your A/C system doesn’t have gas in and isn’t working accurately.
    1 point
  31. Hi, what codes showed up when you had it checked? I’m sure you can’t just purchase the regulator as it is inbuilt into the fuel pump on the 1.5 k9k engine so you would have to fork out for the lot
    1 point
  32. Hi All, I naively bought a 1.6 16 plate Tekna Juke Diesel (55k Mileage) May of last year for what I thought I would need to commute to work, however working from home meant I did not need to do that. I live in the city and don't travel very often and so I've had problems with needing a new DPF , and now a clogged EGR valve and sensor, requiring a new one. Which has cost me alot of money i'd rather not spend if possible to avoid. This was my first proper car so was unaware that short distance/city driving is not ideal for a Diesel and the build up is likely my start/stop driving and short distance journeys. I've read that taking it out on the motorway every now and then is required to get it heated up and clear the carbon or whatever out from there, but can't find a rough estimate of time frame so was looking for some advice on that. TLDR: How often would you recommend taking it out to get it to high rev/high speed/high heat to keep the DPF and EGR clean? Weekly? Fortnightly? Monthly? Please also feel free to correct me if what i've read is inaccurate. Thanks
    1 point
  33. I get this exact issue with my 2016 Juke, I connect to it through bluetooth and use spotify and it will just randomly pause for 10 seconds every now and again. I made sure to turn off traffic announcements, which helped a bit, but it still happens sometimes. Let me know if the re-calibration helps, i'll have to get it done myself!
    1 point
  34. Hi just thought I’d introduce myself, I’m Steve from the north east of England. I have recently pruchased a Nissan sunny coupe 1.6 GSX 1990. I work at Nissan as well as a panel repairer. nice to meet you all 😊
    1 point
  35. Thinking of selling my 1996 Nissan QX 3ltr SEL. Any idea as to what price I should ask? Thanks Mike
    1 point
  36. After several years of absence it feels good to be back behind the wheel of a Nissan automobile. Thanks alot for the acceptance into the club and I look forward to many great memories !
    1 point
  37. My engine management light kept coming on and my garage could not determine the cause but I was told it was related to electrics and performance issues but when put on the diagnosis machine it was giving a different reason each time. My wife saw a reference to these problems on Facebook and the reason given was the new E10 petrol. I asked my garage to drain my tank of the E10 and put E5 in instead and this was over 2 weeks ago and my car has been running fine since the change and I wanted to pass this on to anyone having the same problems I was having to see if this would help.
    1 point
  38. Thanks Trevor. Will have a look but not sure about my soldering skills now due arthritis in fingers etc. Still if it turns out to be the problem sure I can find electrical repair shop to solder it.
    1 point
  39. I have been told that the new models have a 1.3 as opposed to ours being 1.2 - apparently it makes quite a difference.
    1 point
  40. Not sure on the differences without doing a side by side comparison and also taking it for an extended test drive and seeing how they compare. If you are looking to trade before Christmas means the trader would probably be keen to make the sale so a good deal could possibly be had at this time of year.
    1 point
  41. Hello, Just found this page. I have a 1985 1800 SGL. I have owned the vehicle from new. I have every service record MOT etc. The car was in practical classic about 5 years ago. Never been rebuilt or sprayed all original. Runs like a dream. Cheers Paul.
    1 point
  42. I bought a a 2006 serena and i download Google translator and now i have my mobile Bluetooth connection and my dvd work i cant seam to find a disk for the sat nav to work but just rest my mobile over the screen a@d use Google maps. love the vehicle. going touring round isle of man next year and Britain i live in hull uk
    1 point
  43. Would definitely advise using a battery conditioner (available from Halfords, etc) as this will keep the battery topped up...especially important during colder weather. Otherwise it should be okay if left in a garage for this amount of time
    1 point
  44. Here is a procedure I found and seem to recall using the same technique before on a T31 You must use ORIGINAL KEY to start procedure 1. Sit in car lock all doors with power “switch lock on driver side door” 2. Using ORIGINAL key insert and remove key till doors UNLOCK within 8 seconds, usually insert and remove six times 3. Turn ORIGINAL key in ignition to ACC position (Do not start engine) 4. Lock all doors with “power door lock switch on Driver side door” 5. Press lock or unlock on NEW key this will match them up, if you have another key press lock or unlock as well, it will be programmed all keys to the same code. To exit program mode, turn the ignition OFF. UNLOCK the door using the driver side switch. Test fobs
    1 point
  45. I would start with the grease, clean it from the reluctor ring and go from there
    1 point
  46. Sadly not! We had to pay the cost of replacement Clutch of £1800 plus an AA report of £200. The AA sent ACE (Automotive Consulting Engineers Ltd) to carry out the inspection which concluded that the Clutch had over heated which caused the failure. No suggestion as to cause other than abuse and referred to Towing in the report which did not mention that there is not a Tow Bar on the car! The report appeared to me to have a large element of "cut and paste" about it. I tried to contact ACE for more details of the inspection but they did not respond I contacted Nissan and asked if they could Inspect the components and the Dual Mass Fly Wheel, they declined and suggested I look on the Internet to find someone to inspect it but could not suggest anyone. The Nissan "Adviser" declined to discuss the matter any further with me and refused to put through to a Manager. We reject the suggestion that we "ride" the clutch as there is adequate spec by the clutch pedal to rest the foot and we have suddenly become bad drivers. I took legal advise and my Solicitor advised that we could become involved in a costly dispute. We are left with a car that my wife is reluctant to drive as she has lost faith in it. We ask ourselves three questions. Would we buy another Nissan, would we recommend a friend to buy a Nissan and are we satisfied with Nissan's Customer Care? NO, NO, ABSOLUTELY NOT.
    1 point
  47. Hi all, I've been having some throttle response problems (flat spot), juddering issues at certain revs and poorer fuel economy on my Micra K12 2003 1.2 petrol. I tried to find a guide online that would help me remove and clean the throttle body but I couldn't find anywhere that could show me the location of the throttle body or even how to remove it. So I decided to find the throttle body myself and undertake the removal and cleaning in the hope of creating a guide for other people who would like to know how to do it. I took some nice photos as I progressed which I could use in a guide. I have put together a little guide which you can find detailed below and also a copy on my website which should help anyone wanting to remove and clean the throttle body on their 1.2 petrol K12. The guide is detailed below in this topic. Alternatively you can also access the guide at: http://www.limecove.co.uk/nissanmicrak12/nissan-micra-k12-throttle-body-removal-clean.html Hopefully it'll be useful. Thanks, Chris
    1 point
  48. Nissan Micra K12 Throttle Body Removal and Clean Welcome to this guide on how to remove and clean the throttle body on a Nissan Micra K12. This procedure was done on a 1.2 2003 petrol model. As I couldn't find a good tutorial on this process I thought I would have a go myself and then put together this guide for other people. The process is actually relatively straight forward once you know how. I was experiencing juddering at certain points on the rev range and when the car was in a certain gear, MPG had decreased plus some hunting when the car was idle. So I decided that I would clean the throttle body to see if that would help. I actually didn't know exactly where the throttle body was located on this model. It's actually located under the air intake box/top manifolds which are shown below. It's actually located inside and under the top of the plastic manifold housing. Once you have removed the throttle body you will realise that it's actually connected to one of the electrical connections on the top of the housing that you will need to disconnect as part of this process. Throttle body location This is where the throttle body is location on a 2003 1.2 petrol Nissan Micra K12. Tools required This is a list of tools and other items required to get to the throttle body, remove it from the housing and then clean it: Pliers or grips 10 mm socket Ratchet Toothbrush or cotton buds and an old but clean cloth A good carb/throttle body cleaner The process So here are the steps. Step 1 - Remove the air intake and air filter box Remove the air intake pipe (highlighted by the red arrow) by removing the plastic lugs that hold it to the front of the engine bay and then remove the other end from the air filter housing on the right. I had to slightly twist mine and then gave it a hard pull to detach it. Then remove the air filter housing from the manifold housing. Do this by unclipping the metal retaining clips (highlighted in blue in the image below) located on the front and the right side of the housing. There are only two clips that hold this in place. They simply unclip upwards and one remains connected to the top housing and the other remains connected to the air filter box. Once you have unclipped the air filter housing the front of it may drop away from you. It should not fall off completely as the back is held in place by the box being slid into holders in the back of the top housing. To remove the air filter box simply push the front down and when it's at a certain point pull the air filter housing towards you. This will pull it out of the rear mounts. Try to look at the rears mounts when you do this so that you can be sure you pushed it down enough to be able to pull it forward without snapping the plastic mounts on the back of the top housing. You should see this when the air filter housing has been dropped away from the top housing. The air filter itself may have stuck to the underside of the top housing like mine did so just pull it off and place to one side. I would suggest replacing it with a new filter whilst you are doing this as you will have to put it back in when you reassemble. Now just slide the air filter housing out of the engine bay so that you can continue. You will see this. Step 2 - Disconnect Electrical Connectors Disconnect the three electrical connectors as highlighted in red. The one to the left of the top housing is the actual throttle body connector. Once the one in the middle of the top housing is unplugged, make sure you gentle pull it out of the recess that the rest of the cable lies within and gently push it to one side out of the way. Do not just pull these connectors as they are made from plastic and will snap. They all have a small tab which needs to be depressed at the same time as gently pulling them. Do not pull them too hard as they do not need it. They will disconnect very easily if the tab is pressed whilst pulling them. Step 3 - Disconnect Breather Pipes/Hoses Disconnect the two breather hoses/pipes as highlighted in red. You will need to use a pair of pliers to release the retaining clips that hold the end of the pipes tightly sealed in place. Just squeeze the release arms on the retaining clips with the pliers and slide the retaining clips along the pipes until they are free of the housing connector. Now just gentle pull the hoses/pipes off the housing connectors. Again, you do not need to pull these hard. They should just slide off with a light pressure. Remove the centre hose from the recess in the top housing and push it out of the way. You should now see something like the image below. All electrical connectors have been disconnected and the hoses disconnected. I took this picture before I had moved the centre hose out of the way so you shouldn't have this in place at this stage. Next remove the breather hose mount, shown below, from the top housing. If you don't remove this you will not be able to remove the top housing completely if you leave the rear hose attached. Alternatively, you could leave it bolted on and just remove the other hose from it and then remove the top housing with the mount attached. I just unbolted it and pushed it out of the way so I didn't damage it. Once you've removed the mount then it should look like the image below. Just move it gently out of the way so that it doesn't interfere when you remove the top housing. Step 4 - Remove Top Housing You can now remove the top housing by simply removing the bolts highlighted in red in the below images. They are all 10 mm. Remove the three front bolts. Remove the two bolts on the left rear of the housing. Remove the two bolts on the right rear of the housing. Once the seven bolts have been removed you can simply pull the top of the housing up towards you and it should separate from the bottom section of the housing. Warning: Do not pull this top section up too hard. You should be able to just pull it up with a little force. The top section is attached to plastic manifold inlet pipes toward the rear and they are pretty much held on by O rings. Try to pull the top section of the housing up towards you in a straight motion. Try not to bend it as you pull it up. It should come off fairly easily. Warning: This top section actually contains the throttle body itself so take care. Do not just drop it to one side as you may damage the throttle body that you are about to clean - if you are not replacing the throttle body itself of course. You should now see the image below once the top section is removed. Step 5 - Remove Throttle Body From Top Housing Once you've pulled off the top housing turn it over to see the location of the throttle body. Simply remove the three bolts that are highlighted in red in the image below. They are 10mm so just use the same socket you used to remove the top housing bolts. Once you have removed the three bolts you can now remove the whole throttle body. The throttle body is now only held in by the top of the electrical connector on the outside of the top housing. It's a bit tight so just pull the throttle body towards you whilst wiggling it slightly as the rubber seal is a little tight. Don't put too much force as you might snap the plastic top housing. You should now see the housing like this once the throttle body has been removed. Step 6 - Clean The Throttle Body To clean the throttle body I used a small headed toothbrush, some clean rag and a good carb / throttle body cleaner. Warning: Carefully follow the instructions on the carb cleaner. Do this work in a well ventilated area, preferably outside and wear a suitable breathing mask. Take extreme care not to inhale the fumes from this cleaner or the dirt that it removes from the throttle body. I used the following carb cleaner which is available from a well known parts store for about £8. This was the state of my throttle body when I got it out. It was really clogged up and clearly sticking. Simply attach the small pipe to the can of carb cleaner and then spray into and around the inside of the intake of the throttle body and all over the butterfly valve. Then just brush the whole of the inside of the intake (front and back) and butterfly valve with the toothbrush and/or rag. The dirt should come off quite easily as the carb cleaner is really effective. Keep doing this until the intake and butterfly valve are as clean as you can get them. Keep wiping off any residue with a good clean rag as well as you do this. After about 10 minutes of cleaning I had a nice clean throttle body as shown below. Yours should look pretty similar when complete. Step 7 - Refit Your Throttle Body And Reassemble Other Parts Warning: Before refitting your cleaned throttle body you should ensure that the throttle body is dry and does not contain any residue from the cleaning agent. I left my throttle body to completely dry for about an hour or so just to be extra cautious before proceeding with refitting. Refitting your throttle body and reassembly is just really this guide in reverse from step 5 back to step 1. Warning: Take care when reattaching the top of the housing to the bottom and the intake pipes as they have O rings present. Ensure that they are correctly aligned before pushing the top housing down into place. Be careful not to pinch or tear the O rings. If it's tight to refit over the O rings then either replace the O rings or simply apply a small smear of engine oil around the O rings which should help refit the top housing. Warning: Do not over tighten the bolts that hold the throttle body in place or the top housing. Warning: Once you have reassembled everything it is a good idea to just double check that all the breather hoses are reattached and secured in place and that all the electrical connectors are attached securely. You should now be able to start the car and test accordingly. If this process has been successful then you should have a smoother throttle response and possibly more accurate. Mine stopped juddering at certain revs and seemed so much more responsive. I am also now getting much better fuel economy.
    1 point
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