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Hmm, seems like someone had the issue before and a bodge was carried to rectify the issue (or at least attempt to rectify it). There is an issue with the timing chains and as far as I can see it was a recall from Nissan. It does suggest that it occurs on hard acceleration (e.g. from a slip-road) and if the chain is slack it can drift away from the timing point by a small fraction (much like a loose timing belt) which can then throw a code for cam/crank timing and result in what you are experiencing. I would personally replace the engine oil and look to see what has come out - e.g. metal particles and then replace it with the specified oil which may have not been supplied with previously. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/engine-oil-12094/nissan/pulsar/pulsar-hatchback-c13/107484-1-2-dig-t If you use a quality oil of the correct specifications (as listed in the link above) and see if that makes any difference to how it runs. If no real difference is noted then I would advise to get the timing chain replaced which will almost certainly make a difference if it is worn

I use a smart screen with Android Auto. Then connect my phone via BlueTooth and use Waze map. Less expensive and live updates of accidents, traffic jams etc.

I had the same problem radio cutting off there is a fee upgrade from nissan now work perfectly it's a common problem

UPDATE So it appears we may have FINALLY sorted this issue. It seems it was the suspension top mount. There was play in the mount as they showed me after they replaced it. So far so good, no noise. I will update further if it come back.

Yeah Trevor I generally get 3 months warranty out but with this being a newish car they gave 2 years for the price of 1

Great diagnosis and sometimes you can narrow it down to one part (hopefully a cheapish part) and then throw caution to the wind - it then either works or it doesn't.

Thank you. I'll give that a try. So the rear N/S rear window gets 0.69v when operated from the drivers switch and the O/S rear window gets 3.67v when operated from the driver switch. I've pulled the driver switch apart and there's a 47uf 35v vt capacitor that was very loose and broke off. I've managed to solder it back on to close the windows. I'm going to order a ne Drivers windows switch and replace before i continue to trace the issue. Ground's seem good. I used some extra wire to bypass the ground on the plug and nothing changed. I know the rear switches work as when i hold down the Drivers switch and toggle the rear switch the window stops moving so i know the rear switch is inturupting the driver switch signal but the rear switch is just not sending the signal down to the motor. So i assume there's some back/forth with the main switch/BCM which is not getting completed. Fingers crossed it's the main drivers switch and not the BCM module. I may have to buy a laptop and grab a copy of Nissan Consult III. The service manual suggests there's a BCM test for windows which might be handy to identify the issue.

Thats an odd one but I would start by peeling back the rubber gaiters running into the rear doors and check for any breaks in the wiring. After that, I would put a secondary earth to the earth connections on wiring and ensure that there is a decent earth to complete the circuit - let us know how you get on with it

Nissan's local dealer sent me a email with the repair cost , they also found one of the springs had cracked and needed repairing which turned the cost up to £1294 luckily the warranty covers the cost

I'm wondering if it could be a little bit of both? It would be natural to have a linear acceleration with e-power but also if a software upgrade was available then there may be an update on drivability which may smooth out the drive

New to pathfinders. After doing some light modifications for a bit of off road use and was wondering what stealth winches people are using. Would like to keep the original bumper. Any guides about. Tia

used to see this with black electrical tape. does the job.

I know... so nothing. But, Thanks.

Its such a scam and see it all the time - easy money for the garages. It is possible to fit replacement rubbers if all they are is perished. As long as they are not perforated and leaking grease or if there is any play in the joints then it is perfectly serviceable. Advise on the MOT sheet but not necessary to replace otherwise. Recently fitted a replacement lower arm on wife's Juke and then replaced it a year later as the first (cheaper one) knocked the joint out in no time - more expensive one, quite a bit heavier duty for the N/S location and almost twice the weight. An easy job to carry out yourself and definitely not £1200 worth of repairs. Kept the old rubbers to use if necessary in the future. :-)

Thanks for your response, after i posted this, I took the car back to the mechanic to have the fault codes checked and none showed up. However, i decided to risk it and drive from Dublin to Longford, during the way for about 10 seconds two seperate time I noticed it struggling continuously and thats when the CEL came on flashing but after I changed speed it smoothed out and the CEL went away immediately. I let it rest for the night, this morning I decided to check for any fitting errors. I found that the air intake duct/snorkel was not properly fitted in the front, so it would've been sucking in the warm air of the engine bay which could cause the engine to struggle under stress. Though as far as I'm aware, this wouldn't cause misfires or CEL but this points towards the previous owner or his mechanic being very rough with their work. (This car has had the internal speakers, headlamps replaced, wiring damaged, connector damaged and incorrectly replaced spark plugs, so someone has been frequently toying with the internals) And this prompted me to check other fittings. The intercooler pipe(?) (image attached below had some issues which I don't know if they could be a clue or not. The right rubber part attaches securely to the middle plastic bit, its nice and tight, however, at the other end of this rubber bit (the far right of the picture, where it would connect to the intercooler) there is a bit of give. I can wiggle it a little. Then the shorter rubber tube (at the left of this image, which goes behind the engine, so I'm guessing connects to the turbo) had slight greasy residue where it connects to the middle plastic bit. Sorry for the word vomit, am I on to something? How did the mechanic even miss that the air intake duct wasn't seated correctly, and surely if they just ran their hand along the rubber tubing here they would've noticed the grease.

Okey! I’ll try and see if it helps. Maybe with some cleaning additive in the fuel?

I would normally agree with you regarding the engine being run in but if a previous owner just took it to the shops once a week or crawled through traffic in urban areas the engine would not necessarily be run in correctly (many diesel engines with high mileage can be stripped down and still find the honing marks scored into the bores....suggesting that the engine has not been run in correctly). I have torn down engines with just 21k miles and found the bores to be completely worn but equally I have found engines with over 100k miles to still be as fresh as the day it was built. It all depends on how it has been driven. Another example is a BMW R1200GS motorbike I had for many years. When I bought it, it was consuming quite a lot of engine oil, I changed the grade but it didn't like it (just yet). The bike had only covered 24k miles but it was sluggish and didn't respond as it should. I rode the bike hard (as it should be ridden) with high revs in each gear and eventually it was a completely different bike. No longer did it consume oil but I could happily change the oil grade accordingly. The long and short of it is that it was not run in correctly and I managed to change that by riding it hard for a period of time. Most diesel engines are not revved hard enough to burn off carbon (which could be gumming up the rings into the piston and not sealing in the cylinder efficiently, blocked EGR, blocked DPF, etc. All they usually need is an 'Italian Tune-up' to keep it all clean. Moral of this lengthy reply is - if it is consuming oil between services then I would consider that my theory is correct. Also try a cylinder leak-down test which will show exactly which cylinder or valves have pressure leaking past them. Very easy test with visible and audible results

I’m a former owner of three 280Z cars. Although I’ve also owned early Porsche 356a, 356c and 911 cars, the Z cars rank highest in my heart. Now the owner of. 2012 Nissan Rogue and it has all of the issues that it is famous for - but I refuse to give up. So, I will be questioning the forum regarding my CVT repair attempts, codes and results. Here goes!!

Not on late models as it an EU requirement as I understand it. Mine is set up with a shortcut to turn audio warning off by pressing control switch and Okay.

Thanks for the tip, I will check them out. Cheers.

Nissan are looking into my new car that was not giving the advertised range of 759 miles on delivery as they said it should (only giving 660 a 100 mile discrepancy. Car delivered with full fuel tank and only delivery mileage of 10 miles). second tank fill still only 660 range. Awaiting their investigation!

Hallo den habe ich erfolgreich eingebaut: L7808 Spannungsregler 8V DC gruss Michael

When I had this i thought it was a phone or car setting. Can't really remember but I did get it to stop by altering which ever setting it was.

Hey guys, not sure if this is the right place to post "for sale". Sorry about that. I'm selling my 1 owner Pathfinder SE. 70,125 miles. Engine and trans in perfect running condition. Does need a SAS and flex plate. I have all service/oil change receipts. Asking $4500 neg.

So, here's the saga. Offside Drum collapsed inside, my fault- long story. Anyway, new drums, studs, bearings, shoes, spring kit purchased, but could I find an ABS ring for the pixo anywhere? Nope! Eventually, Vertu Nissan offered me 2 rings for £201!!! Bought 2 used drums, cleaned/painted and fitted. ABS light turned off 👍 Moral of the story: Parts like this are becoming very difficult to get. Also, does anyone have any ABS rings? I have 2 brand new drums, with new bearings pressed in and ready to. They'll need the fings fitted, obviously. You can have them both for £50 plus whatever the p&p will be Tony

Exact same thing just happened to me this weekend, car just stopped with no warning! I'm going to try and claim through my finance company claiming a breach of my consumer rights but i'm not hopeful. Looking online it seems the problem is endemic!

Hi, welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

its amazing how powerful the media can be in resolving such issues with manufacturers - keep trying as you may get a good outcome

i would say its a case for the ombudsmen and certainly run it past citizens advice to get some more guidance on pursuing a claim If unsuccesful then a secondhand engine (with the revised cooling system parts) may be the most financially advisable way forwards

I purchased a new X Trail 1.5 VC-T TEKNA e4orce on 29th July 2024 within 6 months after car had not been driven for a week battery was flat. Battery changed by garage this has happened 3 times. Seems static electricity is draining battery so an earth strap has been installed by garage. Seems to have done the trick but is this common on new hybrid cars? Garage not getting much info from Nissan.

Certainly a cheap fix but should it be necessary on a new vehicle?

Hi everyone, I am Sid and I own a 1993 K reg 1.6 Sunny SR. Looking for a few bits and bobs and hopefully good advise. Thanks All.

thanks admin. I'll take some pics, and post later. Any views on the 1.2 engines?

Just taking a sec to say Hello, Just bought a Nissan Micra K12 1.2 2008 for my daughter.

I have experienced something very similar. On researching a "fix" I found that holding down the central on/off/volume button for 10 seconds will reset the system.

Hello I am looking for a Nissan SD25 Diesil engine which is out of a Nissan 20 Forklift. I am told the same engine was used in Nissan Cabstar and Nissan Bluebird vehicles in the 1980s. Our currant engine has a hole in the block so I am looking for a good block or a complete engine. Many thanks Colin

I had the 1 litre engine in my last Juke. Its turbocharged so there is no loss of power. I now have a 1.6 Hybrid which is more cost effective especially around urban areas.

Hi all new to the group just wanted go introduce myself. I’m Adam and I’m in North Yorkshire I have a 02 Nissan 350z that I was recently given by my dad as it’s been sat for 2yrs. it had a little work done before it got parked up but it still needs a bit of love. tell me what you think.

Hi , have just joined so I can find out more about my 1991 Nissan Coupe. Its an import but would love to know if any others exist in the UK? Or indeed Europe .Nissan CoupeNissan Coupe Hope the link works but if not its in Yellow Pearl and is the same as that in the Nissan Heritage museum. Thanks in anticipation

oh very nice car ! Welcome to the forum and keep us updated on the progress

Hi Sappo, I took delivery of my Juke Hybrid in December, so now have three months experience with it. My primary reason for changing was the Juke's higher ride - I previously had three Toyota Hybrids (Auris and Corolla) and was starting to struggle getting in and out due to a back problem. To that end the Juke has been a 100% improvement. However, for my money the Toyota Hybrid system is far superior. I could easily exceed 60mpg with the Toyotas without making any adjustments. Best I have achieved so far with the Juke is 52 - that is using Eco Drive and e-pedal, both of which have to be activated every time I start up. I have no mechanical expertise but I cannot understand why the Juke revs so high when travelling between 28-31, which for most of us is the speed we drive at around town. That said, I find the car has a very solid feel (maybe a more "robust" ride than the Toyota) and I feel safe in it. Psalmist

My brother once owned a 1984 Nissan Pulsar, silver colored and I believe it had an automatic transmission. I'm now retired and wondering where could I find a very nice, low mile, garaged, nice example of a first generation Pulsar NX ? I'm sure I will learn the meaning of patience as it could take years to find a truly nice condition low mile Pulsar of that era. I do keep an eye out generally on internet but hoping there are specific places, such as car clubs? events where these kinds of cars gather? My guess is they are not considered collectable and probably most have rusted away in wrecking yards by now.

I have always managed to find replacement resistor packs for most cars on eBay More than likely would be the same for most Nissan models - remove it and compare to images of them on eBay

Thanks bloke, nice to be welcomed and pleased to be standing 😉 I haven't even looked through your forum but I'm guessing you're a street car forum,?.. I'm 4x4, although I did own a Datsun "shovel nose" back in the day 🙂 know a little of the early KA series... but I'm here looking for information on differentials.. C200 in the Nissan Navaras in Aust..

Hi Mike, I have a completely stock 350z for sale. Are you still on the search for a well maintained one? thanks, Fred.

HELLO MEMBERS, can any one help please, I have a Nissan Ebro Camper van 1985, I think its the only one left in the UK? I am trying to locate replacement head lamps ? I hope someone out there can assist? many thanks David

Hi Trevor, Thank you for your input, anything helps at this point, much appreciated! All the best, Daniel

Hello, I recently imported a rare Nissan Stagea 350S with the 6 x speed manual gearbox only 167 were made by AUTECH , i took it for its first mot today and it failed on both front lower control arm inner bushes would anybody know who can supply me with items or better still a pair of wishbones which makes the job easier for the mechanic. Cheers .. jimcrickuk@aol.com

It should be something like selecting the individual seat position and then depressing the position number 1 or 2 button (depending on who is driving at the time) for a short period of time