Trevor

Sorry to hear your bad news and its gutting when that happens. Not sure what the cost is but you may want to consider going through insurance with all the checks and replacement parts that you can't see that are damaged....for example; suspension components, alignment, wheel rims or anything else that may have absorbed some impact and got damaged in the process. Keep us updated on the progress

It's a shame that you can't capture the lights upon switching the ignition on as most warning lights momentarily come on then to prove they are working. However, it does sound like a traction control issue...which could be related to incorrect tyre size, pressures, different brand/compound...all of which are unlikely given the age of the vehicle. I would definitely hound the dealer to get to the bottom of the cause as this sound potentially quite dangerous if it is locking up one of the wheels during cornering. ABS would release the brakes and give a cadence braking to regain control whereas, traction control will apply the brake to provide traction and this can occur on cornering but only if you completely take the vehicle past it's capabilities. Let us know how this all goes

glad it's all sorted and thanks for the feedback

Hi ShedHead....welcome to the Forum Can you elaborate on the symbols you get when it starts playing up...maybe a photo of the lights as they come up with the ignition switched on? Cheers, Trevor

Hi Simon It sounds like the settings may have been lost when replacing the battery. Maybe worth reading the handbook to see if there is a default setting, if not then a trip to the dealers I think Good to have you onboard Cheers Trevor

Hi Mark.....weclome to the Forum Great deal for someone who needs a new head Worth regularly checking the state of the chassis as they are prone to heavy corrosion. Good to have you onboard Cheers, Trevor

It could be crankshaft sensor...I would look for live data reading on the injectors when turning it over...no reading, no crank sensor signal. Also, could be timing out in which case I would not drive it and let him come out and check it or use the RAC/AA to recover it to his garage.

Difficult question to answer really...depends on which type of journey you predominantly do as your daily commute, load / speed rating, cost, etc Brands such as Michelin and Goodyear are my preferred favourites for all-round durability and grip

Biggest problem sometimes is inheriting problems with a car that the previous owner has introduced like this. Hopefully the journey involves long stretches to keep the revs high enough for prolonged periods of time....then this should keep it clear. Good luck.

Hi Dave...welcome to the Forum I imagine that the your new purchase is quite low mileage and possibly only used for short journeys, hence the reason the DPF is clogged. Diesels really need to be worked to get the best from them and if not revved sufficiently then they tend to clog up internally. The advice and course of action you are currently following is good and in certain circumstances (e.g. it hasn't blocked too much) then it should work. If it still hasn't cleared after a while then it will have to have a forced regeneration by the dealer or reputable repairer. Once it is clear, then it will involved driving it a distances every so often to let is naturally regenerate and stay clear. Hope that helps and let us know how you get on with it all. Cheers, Trevor

Hi Melissa ... welcome to the Forum Sorry to hear about your problems with the car....the glass roof is an issue that tends to affect many other makes as well (Lexus, being one of them, Audi is another). I believe the fault is with the size of the glass and the fact that it is subjected to the twisting and movement of the vehicle frame....not to mention harsh vibration such as driving through potholes. Although the vehicle looks good with plenty of natural light coming into the cabin, it is fair to say that its not the brightest move by any manufacturer when it comes to design over function. I would personally have the glass replaced and worry about fighting a claim afterwards. It is better than the option of the glass shattering and having to deal with all of that. I wonder also, if your car glass insurance covers it as it is accidental damage(?) Let us know how you get on with it all. Cheers Trevor

I would thoroughly check the chassis for corrosion as the equivalent Navara suffers from the chassis corroding and snapping just behind the rear bulkhead.

Sorry to hear you've had yet more setbacks but I suppose these things are inevitable when the car goes to the track. Could have been worse I suppose. Cheers for submitting the article to the club once more p.s I have sent you an email

Hi...welcome to the Forum Firstly, the tax is related to the engine emissions so maybe best to go for the latest model if possible. The EGR on any diesel engine will clog up over time if it is not allowed to run at high revs for a long period (e.g. motorway runs) so no diesel is really suited to urban driving as it doesn't allow for the engine to stretch its legs. Good luck with your purchase

Maybe check the bulb is the correct one...compare it with the other side. Sometimes, the wrong bulb can end up back-feeding the electrical system and causing similar faults. If not, I would recommend taking it to an auto-electrician or a Nissan specialist as this would require diagnostic equipment to read the CanBus signals at the rear light to see what is occurring. Let us know what you find.

Thanks for posting up the useful guide Chris....keep them coming! Cheers, Trevor

Hope you also had a great Crimbo and plenty of tuning parts pressies?

It's okay if nothing goes wrong but by the time the vehicle warns you, it's probably too late anyway

Hi Sarah...welcome to the Forum Sorry to hear about your medical condition....hopefully the car hasn't suffered from standing around and as long as you have started it occasionally to keep the battery charged and moved it enough to stop the brakes from seizing then there shouldn't be much else to worry about. Maybe also free the wiper blades from the windscreen in case they have stuck on there and if you switch the wipers on it could tear the blades so best lift them off the screen first. Let us know how you get on with it all Good to have you onboard and enjoy motoring again. Cheers Trevor

Hi...welcome to the Forum You should be able to get the code from your local dealer...hopefully he shouldn't charge for it either. You must be of a certain age to remember that advert....Remington, I think it was? Good to have you onboard Cheers, Trevor

Hi...welcome to the Forum Not entirely sure but a lot of other manufacturers remove the dipstick and either have a service dipstick which they dip the box and then put it back in their toolbox or otherwise its sealed and drained and refilled to the correct quantity. Shouldn't be an issue unless the transmission is losing fluid and you would notice that collecting on the undertray Good to have you onboard Cheers, Trevor

great result!!! :-)

that's a shame....pity you can't build up the head of the bolt with some double sided tape or similar to grip the hubcaps.

excellent result! it's good to hear of 'good news' stories as mostly hear ones about how dealers have ripped people off.

Hi Sith It does sound like the wheel nuts are different...that is the first thing I would check and if they are the same then revert to plan B (whatever that is) Have you got a photo of the reverse side of the hub caps you can upload here? Cheers, Trevor