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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/30/2021 in Posts
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Hello, I am joining this forum with hopes to be able to supply you guys with some hard to come by parts for your beloved Nissans, as the title states we are the second oldest Nissan dealer in the uk and we are looking to move some of our older parts that have been stored away for years. I will be doing a follow up post with our parts list which should have thousands of items for you guys to sift through at your leisure, I just wanted to test the waters to see how helpful this would be for you guys, any responses or comments appreciated. Kind regards, Oscar2 points
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Hi all! Im thinking of getting a Pathfinder in the next month or two. Wanted something bigger for going fishing/camping and always loved the look of the Pathfinder. Especially the older shape (07/08 models). Has anyone got a rot free one with upgraded timing chain they are thinking of parting with? Thanks in advance 🤘🏻🙂 Harry2 points
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Hi - Sorry for the delay in update but problem now cured. Took a while but finally back on the road. Had to take it to a main Nissan dealer 20 miles away in the end so as to connect it to their diagnostics system due to other garages near me not having older diagnostic computer kits compatible with my car. Not cheap. £120 later and they said that the Mass Airlow Unit and Knock sensor needed replacing. Their quote was £1671. Staggering. Said parts were the costly items. They said Airflow Unit was £565 plus VAT. No way! Anyway spoke to Paul at local garage and he said that in all his working life (over 20 years) he had only ever replaced one knock sensor in all that time so should ignore that. A search on ebay resulted in me purchasing Airflow Unit for just under £36. Yes only £36. Could have had it shipped from Australia for around £75 all in. Anyway booked car in with Paul who fitted it along with a couple of rubber gaitors for the steering rack. Total cost for his work was £60. Result - success. Car now runs just as it did before problem occurred so very 'happy bunny'.1 point
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Hi, same issue I had. Battery is fully charged. All the lights were on but not starting. I found this in another forum I followed the advice and I worked. Hope it’ll help 🙂 Thanks Jackyboy117’s advise : ‘I turned the ignition switch to the second point just before you start the engine, I then got out the car and disconnected the negative lead and replaced straight away. Now the car started to try and start but would only make the noise. I then had to shut all doors and bonnets, turn the engine off, lock the car with the key, open the car with the key, half turn the ignition and leave for 5 mins. Once the 5 mins is up turn off the car and straight away start.’1 point
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Hi all, my first post. My juke 1.6 has a faulty fuel pressure regulator. Have been on the hunt for a replacement pump but prices are absolutely crazy for genuine and I'm struggling to find a none genuine that matches the part number. My part number is 1663000q0b. Are any of these pumps cross operable between models. I'm guessing looking at them they will physically fit but I'm presuming there is a difference in pressure etc? Thanks Tim1 point
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I have a 2008 K12 Nissan Micra I am looking for set of new rear wheel brake dust covers I have a part number 44030AX600 but do not know what side of the car this dust plate is for. I am having a very very difficult time finding these covers. I would also willing to accept replica covers as long as thay are new but would prefer origenal Covers Ian1 point
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Samco are a company that specialise in Silicon hoses so they can provide different diameters and lengths and you can also get couplings and adapters to make up your own hoses1 point
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Hello I also have 2007 Highway Star and with it came an owners manual in English. The company is JPNZ instructions are torequest a repair manual for this vehicle visit www.jpnz.co.nz and select Workshop/Repair Manual1 point
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Just come across a video suggesting that the neutral position switch on the gearbox may also have gone. Diagnosis is to turn on the Engine heater switch then engage a gear. Revs should return to normal idle if the switch is operating. My car does not return to idle. Stays revved up and I canove forward without there being any change Could this contribute to the error lights I'm facing?1 point
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That definitely sounds like a poor earth somewhere in the engine bay area.....check the earth lead from the battery and any that may be attached to the engine and body Also on the offchance, it may be something simple like a bulb.....check the rear indicator and tail lamp bulbs are the correct type as sometimes if incorrect they can backfeed current through the electrical system and create faults like you describe1 point
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The colour is not an issue but the type is (all coolants now are of the OATS type)1 point
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You can pop to Halfords and get some universal coolant (pre-mixed to the correct quantity) and top up the tank However, there should be a min-max markings on the tank and should be topped to just below max when the engine is cold1 point
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Hello. Very pleased goes extremely well far better than the previous Peugeot 5008 I got rid of. I changed my previous Qashqai 1.6 petrol with CVT box 13 reg about 3 years ago mainly due to the badly corroded rear subframe, managed a pass but received an advisory instead. Car came from South Cornwall ( St Agnes )exposed to the salty atmosphere from new. This is probably the best secondhand car I’ve bought, must be at least 50 over the last 60 years. The only thing I miss is not having an automatic handbrake which came on when you turned off the engine unlike the Peugeot.1 point
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I swapped the cluster this weekend. Also took the opportunity to replace the crappy OEM-radio with a Bluetooth one. Used a 1-din dashkit for that, looks quite alright actually. Nothing needs to be done to enable the replacement cluster. It’s plug and play. The mileage is stored in the cluster, so make sure you install one with slightly higher mileage than what you have as to not get into any odometer issues during the next MOT. I swapped my faulty 179k cluster with disabled check engine light for a unmolested one with 185k on it. Paid 40 bucks for it at a local junk yard. Those extra 6k in mileage won’t hurt the (non-existent) resale value anyway.1 point
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Hi Trevor Yes the fan spins but not when connected 😞 after failing miserably to remove the fan unit I went back to basics, read posts on the problem with most saying 90% of failures are not the motor itself but the dodgy connector. So cleaned connector best I could I fitted motor back into position, still not working. Next speed control resistor, this I initially ruled out as it was fairly new but to be sure I purchased one on eBay, fitted it and yes it works, better than it did before. so lesson learnt, check the obvious and easiest parts first before stripping the car apart 😀 on plus side know now how to remove top of dash in about five minutes, downside is I need to source another air pipe after I cut the other one away, good old gaffer tape is holding it for now.1 point
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Thanks for the warm welcome Trevor. it was indeed as you described, a clip down by the gear selector arm in the engine bay. i found a clip down there obstructing the movement (it fell off the air filter box). i then moved the gear linkage arm around a bit and made sure everything was connected and moving in the right way and it seemed to fix it. silly really, but sometimes, that's just how it goes hahah1 point
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I would be worried if you didn't hear it in the future 🙂 As long as it still starts and doesn't slow down which could suggest it is starting to bind on the shaft then it should be fine Alternatively, a new starter isn't that much and easy to fit https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=131090&_nkw=2015+k13+micra+starter+motor&selvel=Cars+Year%3A2015%2CCar+Make%3ANissan%2CModel%3AMicra%2CVariant%3APetrol%20Hatch%2CCars+Type%3A1.2%2CBodyStyle%3AFWD%20IV%20K13K%2CMK13K_%2CPlat_Gen%3AMK%20IV%2CEngine%3A1198cc%2056KW%2076HP%20HR12DE&selcontext=productType%3ACAR_AND_TRUCK%2CpartType%3APARTS%2CqueryType%3ABY_VEHICLE&_sop=15&rt=nc&LH_ItemCondition=31 point
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Hi everyone.new to the forum Just thought I'd start with a question as everyone does lol. I have a 95 sunny sequel which is currently sitting on steel wheels and I need ideas help as to what wheels will fit it1 point
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Hi Tim....welcome to the Club I really like the Murano, think they should have stuck with that shape for other model designs Feel free to jump in answering any questions (especially about Nissan parts) if you would like to? Good to have you onboard!1 point
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I will definitely check all of the points of ground connection, and make sure that all BCM connections are secure and dry. Thank you for that insight. I was researching where the BCM is located, and it appears to be behind the instrument panel. Is that correct?1 point
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Have now bought a Qashqai e-power which is great but can anyone tell me why the power lever when pushed forward mades the car go backwards and when pushed back the car goes forward? I am only a simple sailor ( retired Marine Engineer) but it has me baffled..... Davidpincombe1 point
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Hi thanks for replying. The engine runs and am not really sure about misfiring or rough running. To a trained ear you would tell in seconds but i dont know much about them and couldnt tell. I will need to check the wiring etc get a ohms metre1 point
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Hello gentleman, I have a Nissan X-Trail T32 (2017) 2.0dci 4x4, with the N-Connecta package. As I wanted some additional functionalities, I did the following updates as on the Tekna model: Changed headlights from normal H11 to OEM led version, using this conversion cable. Added the OEM chrome door stripes on the lower part of the doors (as on Tekna) Installed two additional USB ports for charging the phones. Added the OEM 19inch wheels fro, as the standard 18inch were not on my taste. Now, I am looking if it is worth to upgrade: Navigation system, to the version with Android Auto / Apple Carplay. This guys sell the conversion cables for 300 USD and additionally you the sat-nav version 259158FW5B, an additional 300 USD... and seems quite a risky investment, not sure it is worth? Is it worth changing the seats to the leather version for the heated seats option? I saw this upgrade which I really loved Did you find any other interesting updates worth doing? Thank you Robert1 point
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Thankyou.shes got wheels now! I am trying to keep it as period as possible1 point
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I must’ve hit the kerb hard and knocked the back wheel out of place. Kwik Fit re-aligned the wheel and the message has disappeared. I will book it in at Nissan to check, because the wheel isn’t fully straight.1 point
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Thankyou Trevor.it has 13 inch steels on with a 175 75 profile I think but I've found a set of 14 inch alloys from a 90's nissan I think a 100nx?? And am going to have them resprayed and 4 new proxy tyres1 point
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Hi Trevor, thanks for your response! That gives me a bit more confidence that its just going to be a bit of a learning curve1 point
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I have had the car checked and there are no issues. It appears to be a fault with the app and Nissan are looking into it.1 point
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We have a Juke in the family and the clutch is also quite lively and takes a few more revs to keep things smooth when pulling away1 point
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Hi Luke.....welcome to the Club I would say you are correct that it is the antenna and as far as I am aware it would not need coding to the vehicle as it does not generate or hold the immobilise code (the ECU would have that information) it simply amplifies the signal from the immobiliser chip in the key fob1 point
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Yes Trevor we will there is a place and they have different lengths I'll find the web site over weekend1 point
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Hi, what codes showed up when you had it checked? I’m sure you can’t just purchase the regulator as it is inbuilt into the fuel pump on the 1.5 k9k engine so you would have to fork out for the lot1 point
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Thanks Trevor. Will have a look but not sure about my soldering skills now due arthritis in fingers etc. Still if it turns out to be the problem sure I can find electrical repair shop to solder it.1 point
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Probably more economical as well Maybe worthwhile looking through Autocar reviews on both models to see how they fair in a road test1 point
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I have been told that the new models have a 1.3 as opposed to ours being 1.2 - apparently it makes quite a difference.1 point
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Not sure on the differences without doing a side by side comparison and also taking it for an extended test drive and seeing how they compare. If you are looking to trade before Christmas means the trader would probably be keen to make the sale so a good deal could possibly be had at this time of year.1 point
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Here is a procedure I found and seem to recall using the same technique before on a T31 You must use ORIGINAL KEY to start procedure 1. Sit in car lock all doors with power “switch lock on driver side door” 2. Using ORIGINAL key insert and remove key till doors UNLOCK within 8 seconds, usually insert and remove six times 3. Turn ORIGINAL key in ignition to ACC position (Do not start engine) 4. Lock all doors with “power door lock switch on Driver side door” 5. Press lock or unlock on NEW key this will match them up, if you have another key press lock or unlock as well, it will be programmed all keys to the same code. To exit program mode, turn the ignition OFF. UNLOCK the door using the driver side switch. Test fobs1 point
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I would start with the grease, clean it from the reluctor ring and go from there1 point
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Hi, not had chance to really look yet, what with work and crappy weather, will post when I do, thanks m81 point
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