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I had the same problem radio cutting off there is a fee upgrade from nissan now work perfectly it's a common problem

Hello, I am joining this forum with hopes to be able to supply you guys with some hard to come by parts for your beloved Nissans, as the title states we are the second oldest Nissan dealer in the uk and we are looking to move some of our older parts that have been stored away for years. I will be doing a follow up post with our parts list which should have thousands of items for you guys to sift through at your leisure, I just wanted to test the waters to see how helpful this would be for you guys, any responses or comments appreciated. Kind regards, Oscar

Hi all! Im thinking of getting a Pathfinder in the next month or two. Wanted something bigger for going fishing/camping and always loved the look of the Pathfinder. Especially the older shape (07/08 models). Has anyone got a rot free one with upgraded timing chain they are thinking of parting with? Thanks in advance 🤘🏻🙂 Harry

When I had this i thought it was a phone or car setting. Can't really remember but I did get it to stop by altering which ever setting it was.

So, here's the saga. Offside Drum collapsed inside, my fault- long story. Anyway, new drums, studs, bearings, shoes, spring kit purchased, but could I find an ABS ring for the pixo anywhere? Nope! Eventually, Vertu Nissan offered me 2 rings for £201!!! Bought 2 used drums, cleaned/painted and fitted. ABS light turned off 👍 Moral of the story: Parts like this are becoming very difficult to get. Also, does anyone have any ABS rings? I have 2 brand new drums, with new bearings pressed in and ready to. They'll need the fings fitted, obviously. You can have them both for £50 plus whatever the p&p will be Tony

I purchased a new X Trail 1.5 VC-T TEKNA e4orce on 29th July 2024 within 6 months after car had not been driven for a week battery was flat. Battery changed by garage this has happened 3 times. Seems static electricity is draining battery so an earth strap has been installed by garage. Seems to have done the trick but is this common on new hybrid cars? Garage not getting much info from Nissan.

Hi all new to the group just wanted go introduce myself. I’m Adam and I’m in North Yorkshire I have a 02 Nissan 350z that I was recently given by my dad as it’s been sat for 2yrs. it had a little work done before it got parked up but it still needs a bit of love. tell me what you think.

My brother once owned a 1984 Nissan Pulsar, silver colored and I believe it had an automatic transmission. I'm now retired and wondering where could I find a very nice, low mile, garaged, nice example of a first generation Pulsar NX ? I'm sure I will learn the meaning of patience as it could take years to find a truly nice condition low mile Pulsar of that era. I do keep an eye out generally on internet but hoping there are specific places, such as car clubs? events where these kinds of cars gather? My guess is they are not considered collectable and probably most have rusted away in wrecking yards by now.

I have always managed to find replacement resistor packs for most cars on eBay More than likely would be the same for most Nissan models - remove it and compare to images of them on eBay

I wasn’t planning on buying a Nissan Leaf. I was only vaguely aware it was an option. We had been contemplating a fully electric car for a while, but were torn between a smaller vehicle and a larger one with a significant towing capacity. It was a toss-up between a Tesla Model Y as the larger option or something else as the smaller option, but we didn’t know what the something else would be. We stumbled into the local Nissan dealer while out window-shopping for cars recently, and they showed us three used Nissan Leafs they had in stock. After many questions with the dealer and a test drive, we bought the 2020 Nissan Leaf Tekna 40 kWh, subject to financing. I spent the next few days researching all I could about the car and organising financing and insurance. A week after the initial test drive, we drove the shiny new toy off the lot and took it home. This is our first fully electric vehicle. I previously had a non-plugin hybrid, so I was familiar with regenerative braking. However, driving a fully electric car is a different experience, so there would be a learning curve. The first and most apparent difference in the driving experience is the buttery smooth transition between accelerating and decelerating and the equally jolt-free transition from stationary to moving and from moving to stationary. Pulling up to a traffic light or otherwise coming to a complete stop is smooth, with no engine vibration, no jolt from a change in gears, etc. It’s an absolute joy to drive. The Nissan Leaf has an ePedal feature. This feature must be manually engaged when you start the car using a pull switch in the centre console near the gear stick. When engaged, the car maximises regenerative braking. Usually, when you press a car’s brake pedal, the car’s forward momentum is arrested as brake pads heat up through friction. All the car’s forward momentum energy is transferred to the brake pads' heating, so it’s lost as heat energy. When you lift your foot from the accelerator while the ePedal feature is engaged, the Leaf’s motor instantly becomes a generator. This happens each time the car slows down while driving, which can be quite often if you are in the city or the journey is primarily stop and go. All the car’s forward momentum is captured as energy used to charge the battery for as long as you’re braking. The transition from motor (using energy from the battery) to generator (putting energy into the battery) is instant and seamless. The more stop and go and braking (lifting your foot from the accelerator), the more energy is reclaimed and put back into the battery. Where the difference in driving experience is noticeable between the Leaf and a regular ICE (Internal Combustion Engine) car, is that the braking effect from just lifting your foot off the accelerator is considerably more acute – especially when ePedal is engaged. In other words, the car slows down much faster than you might otherwise expect. It takes a bit of getting used to. I love the ePedal, but my wife doesn’t. I do have to remember to engage the ePedal feature each time. Sometimes I forget, and then engage it after I’ve started moving the car, such as reversing out of the garage. The car then almost immediately comes to a complete stop due to the braking effect, so I’m still getting used to this. Range anxiety, or the fear of running out of battery charge at inconvenient times, is a genuine concern. Although the fear is real, we’ve not encountered any actual issues in practice. The car has three charging options, each associated with one of two different charging connectors under the small flap in front of the bonnet. When unlatched, either by pressing the button on the key fob or the button on a panel to the left of the steering wheel, the flap can be raised to reveal the two charging ports. The one on the left is the CHAdeMO charging port for fast charging (up to 50 kW). When at a fast charging station, you connect the cable physically and permanently attached to the charge pole into this slot. The charging port on the right side is for AC charging. Two cables come with the car for use with this slower AC charging port. One has a regular household plug on the end, which you use to plug the car in at home. That will give you a trickle charge (2.3 kW) which is relatively slow and typically requires the car to be plugged in overnight to charge the battery fully from near empty. The other is for charging faster at paid locations while out and about (6.6 kW). It’s slower than the CHAdeMO fast charger but fast enough to give you a decent charge after a couple of hours, such as while out shopping or at a restaurant. The CHAdeMO charger could take me from 15% to 80% in about half an hour. While researching the car, before I had paid for it, I learned that getting a battery SOH (State Of Health) report was prudent. Fortunately, the Nissan dealer accommodated this request and provided me with the report. In my case, the report showed the battery was still at 100% health. If the battery health deteriorates below a certain threshold after a certain period, the warranty kicks in and you can have the battery replaced under the warranty. As my Leaf is only 5 years old and came with just 18,500 KM, I did not expect any significant degradation. Using a dongle and a smartphone app called LeafSpy, you can extract detailed telemetry from the car, which provides much more in-depth insights into the vehicle’s usage, battery charging history, etc. I have yet to dive into that. The two charging cables that come with the car are heavy duty, and not the easiest to fold away tidily into the pocket on the inside of the boot. Life with a fully electric car now involves the logistics of managing these cables, taking them out and wrapping them away again after each charge session, etc. We’ve left the AC charger with the household plug permanently plugged in to a socket in the garage, so it’s always conveniently placed to plug in when the car is in the garage. However, it only just reaches. The cable is 5m long. The car itself is 4.5m long. Using extension cords is ill advised for various reasons, so having a plug socket adjacent to where the car is parked while charging is a consideration. You can find out how much charge the battery has at any point from the dashboard while the car is turned on, but there is also a Nissan smartphone app called NissanConnect EV, which you can use to access that information remotely. The car periodically communicates charging telemetry with Nissan’s computing cloud. The app then reads that data from the cloud to provide you updates. We’ve found this slow and the app somewhat buggy and limited. There’s another app called My Leaf. That’s marginally better but still quite slow to refresh and display updated information. With both apps, the information is never immediately at your fingertips – there’s always an annoying delay getting the refreshed data. Our experience with charging while out and about has been a little hit and miss. Our local McDonald’s has a charging pole from Vattenfall. There are two bays and three charging cable types. I’ve attempted to use it twice. Both times I’ve been able to park and hook up, but one time there was a message on the screen indicating there was no power available. I called the number listed and spoke to a real person, but they said they could do nothing since it was outside of regular office hours. The other time it worked perfectly, and I charged from 15% to 80% by the time I finished my meal. Fortunately, my employer provides free charging for electric vehicles. I’ve been able to charge my vehicle to 100% each time I’ve parked at the office, even when I only worked for a half-day. There are dozens of charging networks around the country and Europe. This means you might individually need to subscribe to each network to access their charging locations, which can be quite a hassle. I decided to take out a charge subscription with the ANWB, which affords me access to a wide range of chargers around the country and Europe. Although this doesn’t grant me access to every charge location, it covers a very wide range, and their app helps me identify locations, how many bays are available, what charge connection types are supported, how much it costs to charge there, etc. Being a relatively new car, at just 5 years old, it’s in very good condition. There are no dings or dents and it looks and feels as new. That said, we did have the red airbag warning light come on after a few days. The car is now booked in for a warranty repair of whatever that problem is. Otherwise, we can find no issues with the car. The car feels less spacious inside than other cars we’ve owned (our Citroen Picasso and Renault Megane were both larger vehicles on the inside). Somehow, I feel a little more enclosed in the Leaf. There is less space in the front seats than I would like. I’ve taken to placing a small towel between my right leg and the center console, as my right leg rests against the center console’s hard plastic otherwise, and it can feel a little uncomfortable after a while. After starting the car, I plug in my iPhone to use Apple’s Car Play in-car system. There’s nothing wrong with Nissan’s own in-car system, which seems nicely laid out and easy to use. I’ve just become accustomed to using Car Play in other vehicles and like it. My only gripe is that it can take up to thirty seconds after switching on and plugging the USB cable into the iPhone before the Car Play interface loads and starts. That might not sound like much but that’s about 25 seconds after I wanted to drive away already, and the delay this causes is often inconvenient. I don’t want to have to operate the touchscreen after I’ve started moving, for obvious reasons. One of the Leaf Tekna's really cool features is its 360-degree camera vision. When the camera is engaged (automatically while in reverse or otherwise when pressing a button), the views from the various cameras are stitched together to depict a top-down view of the car so that you can see all around it. This ensures you don’t bump into anything when manoeuvring the car around tight spaces, and it gives you more peace of mind and confidence while reversing. The Leaf's primary fast-charging port is the CHAdeMO port. However, this standard is outgoing and being replaced by the CCS (Combined Charging System) standard. As the CCS standard slowly takes over, fewer fast chargers will have CHAdeMO. Eventually, it will be necessary to get an adapter. Currently, there are a few adapters on the market, but it is early days and they are expensive, ranging anywhere from €750 to €1100. Having an adapter will open up a lot more charging options for the Leaf, but I expect the prices to come down over time as more adapters become available and economies of scale kick in. Other nice features of the Leaf are the adaptive cruise control and lane assist. Adaptive cruise control means you can set a speed and the car will automatically adjust up and down (without going over) as required depending on whether traffic is ahead of you. If traffic in front slows down, so will the Leaf. When the traffic ahead speeds up, so will the Leaf. The lane assist will keep the Leaf in lane even during light turns. Technically, you can take your hands off the wheel, and the car will still steer itself. There are limitations. It doesn’t work for anything other than a slight bend in the road, and the system will warn you if it detects you’ve let go of the steering wheel for over a few seconds. While engaged, the cruise control warns you if you get too close to, or go over, the white road line markings. It grabs your attention with audible and physical alerts. You hear what sounds like a car horn and the steering wheel vibrates simultaneously. Nissan got this just right. Together, these warning signals grab your attention but are not so shocking as to scare the wits out of you. We have noticed that the indicated range at the start of any journey is much more optimistic than what we get in practice. When leaving my office with 100% battery charge, the car indicates a range of 255 KM. After driving 40 KM to my home, the range is indicated to be around 190 KM. Despite only driving 40 KM, the indicated range reduced by as much as 65 KM. Much of my drive home is on the motorway, where there is limited scope for capturing regenerative braking energy, but it still feels like we’re getting less than what’s promised – especially on longer trips. There is a touchscreen LCD display, but I find the resolution to be average at best. It could benefit from having a better resolution, not to mention a slightly higher placement on the dash, so we’re not having to look down at it so much. Even though the Tekna is the more premium version of the Leaf, it doesn’t have electrically operated seat adjustments for the passenger and driver seats. I really miss that. It does have a very good sound system, which we really like. That said, the Bose base unit in the boot does seem to take up some boot space. Also a missing feature is an automatic boot operation. My wife misses that feature also. Overall, we’re very happy with our 5-year-old 2020 Nissan Leaf Tekna 40 kWh. The positives outweigh the negatives by quite some margin. The car is delightful to drive. We’re thrilled with the purchase and have made a relatively seamless transition to fully electric driving.

Hello, I recently imported a rare Nissan Stagea 350S with the 6 x speed manual gearbox only 167 were made by AUTECH , i took it for its first mot today and it failed on both front lower control arm inner bushes would anybody know who can supply me with items or better still a pair of wishbones which makes the job easier for the mechanic. Cheers .. jimcrickuk@aol.com

It should be something like selecting the individual seat position and then depressing the position number 1 or 2 button (depending on who is driving at the time) for a short period of time

Thanks Trevor on further investigation we have found similar fault on other Vehicle's and it was found to be Evaporative sensor ( Ambient Thermostat) have one on order but nil stock Australia due in a couple weeks I will post the result

Hi Trevor thank you yes looks a bit tricky. Not in a rush to buy but keeping a look out 🤞

Yes correct! replaced the battery - all sorted - never seen a car react like that just for low battery - weird!

Thank you Trevor, much appreciated, I would consider putting bigger wheels on it, but looking at the lump it so much reminds me of the Terrano 2.7 lump, part of me wants to get hold of one to see id it fits! I have gone down that road years ago when younger, But I also recall those small differences which take a week each to conquer! I'm less patient than I used to be and ache quicker!👍

Hi, I’ve recently purchased my Qashqai and was wondering if anybody else has been using one of these for towing? would really like to speak with like minded people who have towed with a car like mine. cheers jon.

All sorted now .......good old youtube!

Hi All , I have just replaced both window winder motors in my 350Z track . On looking up all the available threads to do it , I noticed all the hassles owners have to overcome to get the window up for the repair . I was desperate , when mine jammed in the down position before I was ready to fix it , and still needed to use it . I started the motor , pulled the window switch up and banged the inside of the door panel roughly alongside where the motor is located . It jarred up the worn brushes for one last effort , and the window wound up much to my relief . I fastened two soft jaw Stanley clamps on the window to keep it from falling down again , while replacing the motor . One bit of advice I have noted on previous forums going forward , to avoid having to do the job again in the future . Is never to let the window go all the way to the bottom if you can help it , when using the window . It is a big heavy window , and needs a lot of leverage to move it resting at its lowest point . This is what prematurely wears the brushes out . That and try not to raise and lower the window with the motor off , this too stresses the brushes as the voltage is not as strong . Wish you luck , you can save a lot of money doing it yourself .

Thanks for the welcome message. As to the models, I have always found them a better value proposition than the other Japanese makes, and that goes double for European cars. I have had other makes (briefly). Rover SD1 V8, Humber Imperial, Holden Commodores (my wife has had a series of wagons, up to her current 14 model SV6 wagon), and even an Aston Martin DB6 Vantage (for a couple of years). Thanks again, Phil

Hi folks Could anyone please tell me where we fill up the transmission fluid. Plus where to buy a van manual, has anyone converted this type of Nissan into a motor home? Any issues with rust around the roof line? And whats a good fix? Cheers Oliver

Hi - just bought my first Nissan ... a 2008 1.6 ltr Micra K12 cc Sport convertible in silver. 3 previous owners and 116k on the clock... it was a cat n insurance write off due to light damage to boot lid and rear bumper! It runs excellently, even the intelligent key works (well most of the time - lol!) ... and the roof works perfectly, so looking forward to the summer months! A few pics the 'Micra Machine' attached. Cheers Steve!

Merry Christmas all..pick up a 1990 Silvia project recently..will be looking help info as project progress..thanks all..

Picking up 2012 highway star Serena in a couple of weeks. Excited.

I finally managed to get the connector off and the new resistor is in and I now have a proper 4 speed fan.

Hi. We have a Nissan Serena Highway Star. Registered here 2009. We got hit while parked outside by unknown driver. Our right side wing mirror was damaged and a scrape down the side. Insurance company couldn't find any repair station that could replace the mirror and nor can we. They paid us a minimal sum to repair it ourselves. Any suggestions or anyone local in Essex breaking one? Sue and Rob.

Just come across a video suggesting that the neutral position switch on the gearbox may also have gone. Diagnosis is to turn on the Engine heater switch then engage a gear. Revs should return to normal idle if the switch is operating. My car does not return to idle. Stays revved up and I canove forward without there being any change Could this contribute to the error lights I'm facing?

I am a newbie here and have a '85 300ZX (see pic) that I am trying to find maintenance for in San Antonio,TX. I would like to find a reliable maintenance shop for regular support as well as when it needs more in-depth attention. Does anyone have a suggestion or two? Thanks.

Thanks - I'll give the jubilee clip a shot and see if that tells me anything. It's at the garage today for service/mot so have asked them to check it out too.

Nissan note 2008 1.6 Petrol Having listened to my drive belt squealing like a strangled cat thought it best I changed it, car has done 140,000 on what I think was the original belt. First as it’s a 1.6 petrol it only has one belt, cheapest place was Halfords at £17. Next watched videos on how to change it, easy I thought, so set to work. Jacked up and on axle stand removed drivers side wheel then attacked the inner wing lining, lots of popper fittings and screws, lot of poppers broke on removal, made sure I had spares. Now I can see the drive belt, well cracked and shiny, slacked tensioner pulley bolt (13 mm) and removed the belt, easy. Checked out belt against new, all ok but could I get the new belt on, no way. Tried the tensioner pulley adjuster, this was a nightmare to get at as you cannot see it all touchy feelly, anyway the adjuster was rusted and not for moving, only option left was to remove the pulley. Cleaned it up and freed up adjuster, next challenge was to re fit the adjuster, which you have to do blind and you can only use one hand, after a lot of cursing I still couldn’t get the thing into position. Looked how to gain better access, remove the front grill and then get another pair of hands to hold the adjuster in place while I re fitted the pulley, easy. Put the new drive belt on and now with relatively easy access to the adjuster tensioned the belt. No more squealing, job took in total about three hours around two hours longer than needed. So before I do my wife’s car going to ensure the tensioner bolt is lubricated, was the main cause of the delay. Will also just remove the front grill and see if it can be changed without having to remove inner wheel arch liner. Hope my experience saves people time and effort.

I managed to contact a electrical specialist for this Thursday so will update on the outcome. I even looked into 'All Data' but they want yearly subscription fee which i certainly won't utilise all the time. It would be good to see get some feedback from any of the forum members that have this subscription and does it cover the Infiniti diesel Euro models ? Not everyones style but this is it.

I tow but rarely heavy and/or long. Thanks for the reply

I would be worried if you didn't hear it in the future 🙂 As long as it still starts and doesn't slow down which could suggest it is starting to bind on the shaft then it should be fine Alternatively, a new starter isn't that much and easy to fit https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=131090&_nkw=2015+k13+micra+starter+motor&selvel=Cars+Year%3A2015%2CCar+Make%3ANissan%2CModel%3AMicra%2CVariant%3APetrol%20Hatch%2CCars+Type%3A1.2%2CBodyStyle%3AFWD%20IV%20K13K%2CMK13K_%2CPlat_Gen%3AMK%20IV%2CEngine%3A1198cc%2056KW%2076HP%20HR12DE&selcontext=productType%3ACAR_AND_TRUCK%2CpartType%3APARTS%2CqueryType%3ABY_VEHICLE&_sop=15&rt=nc&LH_ItemCondition=3

Hi keithtoon ....welcome to the Club There are aftermarket companies on the internet selling SatNav update discs but beware, some work and some don't ! They are not too expensive and worth a try as cheaper than main dealer

Engine fault light and lane departure light apparently due to loose battery connection. Driver’s side mirror when reversing still not fixed still points upwards instead of down.

haaa _ see you have done - thanks!

Hi all. Merry Christmas. Got my new Qashqai 1.5 Tekna e-power on 17/12/22. loving my new car.

We bought a nearly new Tekna 1.3 after a previous diesel Qashqai. . It was £27,000 NEW in 2018 We had problems with the child lock engaging when driving and unable to disengage. This was erratic and they replaced one under the warranty but as they couldn't witness the other one, they refused to repair. Eventually, we had to take a video when it (inevitably) occurred again and they agreed to fix it. We have recently had gear change problems when we try and change gear in the lower gears. We tried Nissan but they can't see us for two weeks so as it's out of warranty, we took it to our local garage who believe it is the slave cylinder and will immediately repair. It also takes a lot of revs to release the autobrake leading to dangerous situations driving off. But it only has 35,000 miles on it and we've NEVER had an issue with any other car like this so early on. As the original poster said, we haven't suddenly changed how we use the gears. And our VW which we have from new in 2017 still has lovely smooth gear changes. It seems Nissan are going the way of Peugeot and instead of producing good cars are now producing bad ones. This will be our last Nissan. 😟

You've no doubt got this sorted Felicity, but just in case you haven't, I recently bought a set of 2 for my 2010 R51 for $79.00 NZ, from Broughmach Auto in Australia. Free postage and arrived in 6 days. The company has good reviews.

Hi any advice tips for this model just purchased August 2022 Scotland. I am always willing to give a go simple small Car owner maintenance weekly jobs but due disability strictly no DIY or heavy lifting Spinal problems. Positively driving this Car first time ever today it fitted like a glove never had any Car like that and after nearly a year of not having a car great! I could sing notes hah!

Hi I am chris I got nissan qashqai 2014 1.5dci have had it for 3 years red have done some mods on it great car love it best car I have in a long while do most of my own work on it also

Hi Luke.....welcome to the Club I would say you are correct that it is the antenna and as far as I am aware it would not need coding to the vehicle as it does not generate or hold the immobilise code (the ECU would have that information) it simply amplifies the signal from the immobiliser chip in the key fob

Hi there I have a 1988 nissan bluebird lx 1.6 for sale. The car has been garaged for the last 31 years (up to January 2021) and is mot'd until November 2022. I've been passed this vehicle from my gran who looked after it very well but she no longer drives. I'm looking to sell at around £1300/£1400 but will consider any sensible offers in this region. Photos attached. Please contact me on 07837 232737 or by email at lawrence.cormacey@gmail.com

Hi, what codes showed up when you had it checked? I’m sure you can’t just purchase the regulator as it is inbuilt into the fuel pump on the 1.5 k9k engine so you would have to fork out for the lot

I have purchased a 1991 Nissan Vanette. I just wondered if there were any other owners?

Probably more economical as well Maybe worthwhile looking through Autocar reviews on both models to see how they fair in a road test

Here is a procedure I found and seem to recall using the same technique before on a T31 You must use ORIGINAL KEY to start procedure 1. Sit in car lock all doors with power “switch lock on driver side door” 2. Using ORIGINAL key insert and remove key till doors UNLOCK within 8 seconds, usually insert and remove six times 3. Turn ORIGINAL key in ignition to ACC position (Do not start engine) 4. Lock all doors with “power door lock switch on Driver side door” 5. Press lock or unlock on NEW key this will match them up, if you have another key press lock or unlock as well, it will be programmed all keys to the same code. To exit program mode, turn the ignition OFF. UNLOCK the door using the driver side switch. Test fobs

I think its a very handy accessory. I'm considering adding another towards the rear of the car. Cross referencing the part numbers for the 12v power socket in the centre console box, and the one at the rear of the car, they have the same part numbers. Centre console: Boot: So that does technically mean that the cabling that comes with the usb package, should fit the onto the wiring loom in the boot also. I'll rake a chance and order one, and see what space there is to mount this in the 3rd row of seating/boot area. For information, I bought the kit for £21 from a Renault parts dealer on ebay. Other sellers have them on there for up to £68. So worth it, I believe for an OEM part.

Nissan Micra K12 Throttle Body Removal and Clean Welcome to this guide on how to remove and clean the throttle body on a Nissan Micra K12. This procedure was done on a 1.2 2003 petrol model. As I couldn't find a good tutorial on this process I thought I would have a go myself and then put together this guide for other people. The process is actually relatively straight forward once you know how. I was experiencing juddering at certain points on the rev range and when the car was in a certain gear, MPG had decreased plus some hunting when the car was idle. So I decided that I would clean the throttle body to see if that would help. I actually didn't know exactly where the throttle body was located on this model. It's actually located under the air intake box/top manifolds which are shown below. It's actually located inside and under the top of the plastic manifold housing. Once you have removed the throttle body you will realise that it's actually connected to one of the electrical connections on the top of the housing that you will need to disconnect as part of this process. Throttle body location This is where the throttle body is location on a 2003 1.2 petrol Nissan Micra K12. Tools required This is a list of tools and other items required to get to the throttle body, remove it from the housing and then clean it: Pliers or grips 10 mm socket Ratchet Toothbrush or cotton buds and an old but clean cloth A good carb/throttle body cleaner The process So here are the steps. Step 1 - Remove the air intake and air filter box Remove the air intake pipe (highlighted by the red arrow) by removing the plastic lugs that hold it to the front of the engine bay and then remove the other end from the air filter housing on the right. I had to slightly twist mine and then gave it a hard pull to detach it. Then remove the air filter housing from the manifold housing. Do this by unclipping the metal retaining clips (highlighted in blue in the image below) located on the front and the right side of the housing. There are only two clips that hold this in place. They simply unclip upwards and one remains connected to the top housing and the other remains connected to the air filter box. Once you have unclipped the air filter housing the front of it may drop away from you. It should not fall off completely as the back is held in place by the box being slid into holders in the back of the top housing. To remove the air filter box simply push the front down and when it's at a certain point pull the air filter housing towards you. This will pull it out of the rear mounts. Try to look at the rears mounts when you do this so that you can be sure you pushed it down enough to be able to pull it forward without snapping the plastic mounts on the back of the top housing. You should see this when the air filter housing has been dropped away from the top housing. The air filter itself may have stuck to the underside of the top housing like mine did so just pull it off and place to one side. I would suggest replacing it with a new filter whilst you are doing this as you will have to put it back in when you reassemble. Now just slide the air filter housing out of the engine bay so that you can continue. You will see this. Step 2 - Disconnect Electrical Connectors Disconnect the three electrical connectors as highlighted in red. The one to the left of the top housing is the actual throttle body connector. Once the one in the middle of the top housing is unplugged, make sure you gentle pull it out of the recess that the rest of the cable lies within and gently push it to one side out of the way. Do not just pull these connectors as they are made from plastic and will snap. They all have a small tab which needs to be depressed at the same time as gently pulling them. Do not pull them too hard as they do not need it. They will disconnect very easily if the tab is pressed whilst pulling them. Step 3 - Disconnect Breather Pipes/Hoses Disconnect the two breather hoses/pipes as highlighted in red. You will need to use a pair of pliers to release the retaining clips that hold the end of the pipes tightly sealed in place. Just squeeze the release arms on the retaining clips with the pliers and slide the retaining clips along the pipes until they are free of the housing connector. Now just gentle pull the hoses/pipes off the housing connectors. Again, you do not need to pull these hard. They should just slide off with a light pressure. Remove the centre hose from the recess in the top housing and push it out of the way. You should now see something like the image below. All electrical connectors have been disconnected and the hoses disconnected. I took this picture before I had moved the centre hose out of the way so you shouldn't have this in place at this stage. Next remove the breather hose mount, shown below, from the top housing. If you don't remove this you will not be able to remove the top housing completely if you leave the rear hose attached. Alternatively, you could leave it bolted on and just remove the other hose from it and then remove the top housing with the mount attached. I just unbolted it and pushed it out of the way so I didn't damage it. Once you've removed the mount then it should look like the image below. Just move it gently out of the way so that it doesn't interfere when you remove the top housing. Step 4 - Remove Top Housing You can now remove the top housing by simply removing the bolts highlighted in red in the below images. They are all 10 mm. Remove the three front bolts. Remove the two bolts on the left rear of the housing. Remove the two bolts on the right rear of the housing. Once the seven bolts have been removed you can simply pull the top of the housing up towards you and it should separate from the bottom section of the housing. Warning: Do not pull this top section up too hard. You should be able to just pull it up with a little force. The top section is attached to plastic manifold inlet pipes toward the rear and they are pretty much held on by O rings. Try to pull the top section of the housing up towards you in a straight motion. Try not to bend it as you pull it up. It should come off fairly easily. Warning: This top section actually contains the throttle body itself so take care. Do not just drop it to one side as you may damage the throttle body that you are about to clean - if you are not replacing the throttle body itself of course. You should now see the image below once the top section is removed. Step 5 - Remove Throttle Body From Top Housing Once you've pulled off the top housing turn it over to see the location of the throttle body. Simply remove the three bolts that are highlighted in red in the image below. They are 10mm so just use the same socket you used to remove the top housing bolts. Once you have removed the three bolts you can now remove the whole throttle body. The throttle body is now only held in by the top of the electrical connector on the outside of the top housing. It's a bit tight so just pull the throttle body towards you whilst wiggling it slightly as the rubber seal is a little tight. Don't put too much force as you might snap the plastic top housing. You should now see the housing like this once the throttle body has been removed. Step 6 - Clean The Throttle Body To clean the throttle body I used a small headed toothbrush, some clean rag and a good carb / throttle body cleaner. Warning: Carefully follow the instructions on the carb cleaner. Do this work in a well ventilated area, preferably outside and wear a suitable breathing mask. Take extreme care not to inhale the fumes from this cleaner or the dirt that it removes from the throttle body. I used the following carb cleaner which is available from a well known parts store for about £8. This was the state of my throttle body when I got it out. It was really clogged up and clearly sticking. Simply attach the small pipe to the can of carb cleaner and then spray into and around the inside of the intake of the throttle body and all over the butterfly valve. Then just brush the whole of the inside of the intake (front and back) and butterfly valve with the toothbrush and/or rag. The dirt should come off quite easily as the carb cleaner is really effective. Keep doing this until the intake and butterfly valve are as clean as you can get them. Keep wiping off any residue with a good clean rag as well as you do this. After about 10 minutes of cleaning I had a nice clean throttle body as shown below. Yours should look pretty similar when complete. Step 7 - Refit Your Throttle Body And Reassemble Other Parts Warning: Before refitting your cleaned throttle body you should ensure that the throttle body is dry and does not contain any residue from the cleaning agent. I left my throttle body to completely dry for about an hour or so just to be extra cautious before proceeding with refitting. Refitting your throttle body and reassembly is just really this guide in reverse from step 5 back to step 1. Warning: Take care when reattaching the top of the housing to the bottom and the intake pipes as they have O rings present. Ensure that they are correctly aligned before pushing the top housing down into place. Be careful not to pinch or tear the O rings. If it's tight to refit over the O rings then either replace the O rings or simply apply a small smear of engine oil around the O rings which should help refit the top housing. Warning: Do not over tighten the bolts that hold the throttle body in place or the top housing. Warning: Once you have reassembled everything it is a good idea to just double check that all the breather hoses are reattached and secured in place and that all the electrical connectors are attached securely. You should now be able to start the car and test accordingly. If this process has been successful then you should have a smoother throttle response and possibly more accurate. Mine stopped juddering at certain revs and seemed so much more responsive. I am also now getting much better fuel economy.