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Hello, I am joining this forum with hopes to be able to supply you guys with some hard to come by parts for your beloved Nissans, as the title states we are the second oldest Nissan dealer in the uk and we are looking to move some of our older parts that have been stored away for years. I will be doing a follow up post with our parts list which should have thousands of items for you guys to sift through at your leisure, I just wanted to test the waters to see how helpful this would be for you guys, any responses or comments appreciated. Kind regards, Oscar

Hi all! Im thinking of getting a Pathfinder in the next month or two. Wanted something bigger for going fishing/camping and always loved the look of the Pathfinder. Especially the older shape (07/08 models). Has anyone got a rot free one with upgraded timing chain they are thinking of parting with? Thanks in advance 🤘🏻🙂 Harry

I got a good set of used tires (4) and put em on there. $85 for just mount and balance but that’s how it rolls. Wierdest experience ever leaving the tire shop. Truck was clattering along like one or more tires seriously out of balance. I was like dreading having to go back and force the issue(s). And then within a few miles at moderate speeds the clattering went away entirely and then smooth running. Like? But that works. They put double balance weights on each wheel. They have the push ins at the inside of the wheel at the tire. And they have glue ons inside the spokes to the outside of the tire. In three cases, the weights are pretty much opposite each other on the wheels! I never saw anything like that before. Like they balanced each wheel twice? This is a very experienced tire shop, for the record. 😯

Hi there new to the forum and on the look for a nice well looked after 350z and wanting to see what if anything might be about. Many thanks in advance

My thoughts exactly. I’m thinking that the 05-12 Pathfinder LE’s, when in 2WD, do not have the front transfer case engaged at all. There’s no hub lock or unlock on these. Unless selecting 4WD is what you’re referring to by manually locking the hubs. AWD is a confusing on this vehicle. I don’t think that the hubs are technically locked, but they’re obviously engaged, and the drive is put to the front by “The System” when it senses “Slip” I guess. And if your front tires are mismatched, it might sense slip continuously. I guess that I could put the truck up on the lift, start it and engage “Drive”(2WD), and just see what’s spinning. I would assume that the forward drive shaft always spins, but that the transfer case is not engaged. Another way would probably be to put on the new front tire on the front paired with the used front tire and go drive. If it’s a problem, the “VDC” and “Slip” lights would probably come on.

I have always managed to find replacement resistor packs for most cars on eBay More than likely would be the same for most Nissan models - remove it and compare to images of them on eBay

Thanks Trevor on further investigation we have found similar fault on other Vehicle's and it was found to be Evaporative sensor ( Ambient Thermostat) have one on order but nil stock Australia due in a couple weeks I will post the result

Hi Trevor thank you yes looks a bit tricky. Not in a rush to buy but keeping a look out 🤞

Thanks - I got a new primer pump and it didn't help at all. I could try a new filter, but I did change that one recently.

Maybe it is the same sensor part number if the lead is long enough to reach - that is assuming it has a B sensor.....if you do find another there, change the plugs over to the A sensor and see if the fault transfers to A sensor

Hi....welcome to the Club I'm not entirely sure if there is a 'bolt on' to add an extra gear or how you could go about adapting anything to fit. However, you may be able to play with the gear ratios in the final drive or even the rolling diameter of the wheels/tyres to affect the mph to revs range

Hi, new on here. Driving a 2020 plate Navara D23 N-guard and hope to get a few pointers on here 😁

Hi Chris This sounds like the baring in the banana arm on my 350Z.

You can get a stainless steel one custom made for not a lot of money....check on eBay for sellers https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1313&_nkw=+nissan+juke+nismo+rear+silencer&_sacat=131090

Hi All , I have just replaced both window winder motors in my 350Z track . On looking up all the available threads to do it , I noticed all the hassles owners have to overcome to get the window up for the repair . I was desperate , when mine jammed in the down position before I was ready to fix it , and still needed to use it . I started the motor , pulled the window switch up and banged the inside of the door panel roughly alongside where the motor is located . It jarred up the worn brushes for one last effort , and the window wound up much to my relief . I fastened two soft jaw Stanley clamps on the window to keep it from falling down again , while replacing the motor . One bit of advice I have noted on previous forums going forward , to avoid having to do the job again in the future . Is never to let the window go all the way to the bottom if you can help it , when using the window . It is a big heavy window , and needs a lot of leverage to move it resting at its lowest point . This is what prematurely wears the brushes out . That and try not to raise and lower the window with the motor off , this too stresses the brushes as the voltage is not as strong . Wish you luck , you can save a lot of money doing it yourself .

Hey just introducing myself im Michael from Southampton i have traded my 2011 Qashqai ntec for a 2020 Qashqai tekna+. I am loving it but i am looking for a fuse cover for inside the glove box that isnt as expensive as they are on ebay if anyone can help?

Will check Will check

Hi Everyone, just bought a 2013 Nissan Serena Hybrid and I was wondering does anyone know where I can get a free user manual download

Hi Hoping someone can help with problem I am having with my QX. Car starts but tickover not smooth. As soon as you touch accelerator pedal it dies. Eventually after numerous attempts it will rev up but will not rev past 2000rpm. just pops and bangs which obviously is not good. If you engage drive (4 speed auto with overdrive) it stalls. Need to hold revs at around 1300 -1400rpm to get it to pullaway but of course it does so with a jerk. Once on the go gearbox changes are often hesitent along with its reluctance to rev. Have serviced the car along with new plugs. Even changed transmission oil. No Engine management warning lights on dash. No warning lights of any kind. Car has covered just under 130,000 miles and never had any problems like this before. Has always started 1st time and run smooth as clockwork. Any ideas/suggestions as to cause and cure would be gratefully appreciated. Many thanks Mike

Neve mind... wife didn't have the headlight switch turned up all the way. Problem solved.

It could be battery condition if it is that old so worth starting with a test and replace if necessary Also worth checking all earth leads from the battery onto the engine and transmission back to the chassis. If any of these are corroded or broken that could cause the problem

Hi Trevor it turned out to be the DPF sensor also most importantly the pipe leading to the sensor had split. Replaced the pipe and sensor and zoom the vehicle back to normal

Thanks Trevor for your reply. I have replaced the Earth connections and looked for leaks, but will double check any way. The idle issue is the same even with the pedal position pot disconnected, so I concluded that was not the issue, but will measure the voltage as you suggest.

Hi Trevor, thanks for the info. I'm going to be replacing the transfer box sensors shortly so I'll take a look whilst I'm under there. Im not 100% sure what I'm doing but trying hard to get the car operational asap. I've tried everything I can think of so far and still no dice. I appreciate the thinking and will let you know how I get on

You can pop to Halfords and get some universal coolant (pre-mixed to the correct quantity) and top up the tank However, there should be a min-max markings on the tank and should be topped to just below max when the engine is cold

Hi, Sadly the vehicle is not on warranty. The engine had gotten a fully rebuild and clearly this code is from a sensor picking up trapped air in the coolant system as it was full and bleed out but after a day or 2 of driving i noticed the coolant bottle was at min and would you believe the fault code light went out.. Happy out till the next fault...😆

I swapped the cluster this weekend. Also took the opportunity to replace the crappy OEM-radio with a Bluetooth one. Used a 1-din dashkit for that, looks quite alright actually. Nothing needs to be done to enable the replacement cluster. It’s plug and play. The mileage is stored in the cluster, so make sure you install one with slightly higher mileage than what you have as to not get into any odometer issues during the next MOT. I swapped my faulty 179k cluster with disabled check engine light for a unmolested one with 185k on it. Paid 40 bucks for it at a local junk yard. Those extra 6k in mileage won’t hurt the (non-existent) resale value anyway.

I managed to contact a electrical specialist for this Thursday so will update on the outcome. I even looked into 'All Data' but they want yearly subscription fee which i certainly won't utilise all the time. It would be good to see get some feedback from any of the forum members that have this subscription and does it cover the Infiniti diesel Euro models ? Not everyones style but this is it.

Hello there im searching for a 1990 sunny coupe gti rear spoiler, hope somewhan can help me find one or hase one for sale.

Hi keithtoon ....welcome to the Club There are aftermarket companies on the internet selling SatNav update discs but beware, some work and some don't ! They are not too expensive and worth a try as cheaper than main dealer

Engine fault light and lane departure light apparently due to loose battery connection. Driver’s side mirror when reversing still not fixed still points upwards instead of down.

Hi all thought I’d drop in before placing my first post in the hope you can help

haaa _ see you have done - thanks!

Tang02. Thanks for the detailed and concise method of resolving this issue, I' m sure other members have (or will) experience this problem at some point

Thank you for the welcome Trevor and thanks for the links will have a look now.

SOLVED. Thank you very much. Nissan Ukraine were able to supply the certificate - quickly and without a fee. It is needed in order to complete the form to register the car in the UK. Thank you again. Springnuts.

Current upgrade status

It was the glow plug relay bought another one and everything seems fine now thanks

Hi, new to forum. I've just bought a 72 plate nsport and am wondering if anyone can suggest a reliable wireless phone charger that works with an android phone and fits nice in front of the changer where the USB slot is Thanks in advance

That's great thank you for that.

hi same has just happened to my note been looking on ebay for replacement are the ones listed for nissan juke the same? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204000681743

Hi Luke.....welcome to the Club I would say you are correct that it is the antenna and as far as I am aware it would not need coding to the vehicle as it does not generate or hold the immobilise code (the ECU would have that information) it simply amplifies the signal from the immobiliser chip in the key fob

Common fault on Qashqai is condenser failure. Perhaps your A/C system doesn’t have gas in and isn’t working accurately.

I have purchased a 1991 Nissan Vanette. I just wondered if there were any other owners?

I have been told that the new models have a 1.3 as opposed to ours being 1.2 - apparently it makes quite a difference.

You are not a nissan dealer are you?

I think its a very handy accessory. I'm considering adding another towards the rear of the car. Cross referencing the part numbers for the 12v power socket in the centre console box, and the one at the rear of the car, they have the same part numbers. Centre console: Boot: So that does technically mean that the cabling that comes with the usb package, should fit the onto the wiring loom in the boot also. I'll rake a chance and order one, and see what space there is to mount this in the 3rd row of seating/boot area. For information, I bought the kit for £21 from a Renault parts dealer on ebay. Other sellers have them on there for up to £68. So worth it, I believe for an OEM part.

Sadly not! We had to pay the cost of replacement Clutch of £1800 plus an AA report of £200. The AA sent ACE (Automotive Consulting Engineers Ltd) to carry out the inspection which concluded that the Clutch had over heated which caused the failure. No suggestion as to cause other than abuse and referred to Towing in the report which did not mention that there is not a Tow Bar on the car! The report appeared to me to have a large element of "cut and paste" about it. I tried to contact ACE for more details of the inspection but they did not respond I contacted Nissan and asked if they could Inspect the components and the Dual Mass Fly Wheel, they declined and suggested I look on the Internet to find someone to inspect it but could not suggest anyone. The Nissan "Adviser" declined to discuss the matter any further with me and refused to put through to a Manager. We reject the suggestion that we "ride" the clutch as there is adequate spec by the clutch pedal to rest the foot and we have suddenly become bad drivers. I took legal advise and my Solicitor advised that we could become involved in a costly dispute. We are left with a car that my wife is reluctant to drive as she has lost faith in it. We ask ourselves three questions. Would we buy another Nissan, would we recommend a friend to buy a Nissan and are we satisfied with Nissan's Customer Care? NO, NO, ABSOLUTELY NOT.

Nissan Micra K12 Throttle Body Removal and Clean Welcome to this guide on how to remove and clean the throttle body on a Nissan Micra K12. This procedure was done on a 1.2 2003 petrol model. As I couldn't find a good tutorial on this process I thought I would have a go myself and then put together this guide for other people. The process is actually relatively straight forward once you know how. I was experiencing juddering at certain points on the rev range and when the car was in a certain gear, MPG had decreased plus some hunting when the car was idle. So I decided that I would clean the throttle body to see if that would help. I actually didn't know exactly where the throttle body was located on this model. It's actually located under the air intake box/top manifolds which are shown below. It's actually located inside and under the top of the plastic manifold housing. Once you have removed the throttle body you will realise that it's actually connected to one of the electrical connections on the top of the housing that you will need to disconnect as part of this process. Throttle body location This is where the throttle body is location on a 2003 1.2 petrol Nissan Micra K12. Tools required This is a list of tools and other items required to get to the throttle body, remove it from the housing and then clean it: Pliers or grips 10 mm socket Ratchet Toothbrush or cotton buds and an old but clean cloth A good carb/throttle body cleaner The process So here are the steps. Step 1 - Remove the air intake and air filter box Remove the air intake pipe (highlighted by the red arrow) by removing the plastic lugs that hold it to the front of the engine bay and then remove the other end from the air filter housing on the right. I had to slightly twist mine and then gave it a hard pull to detach it. Then remove the air filter housing from the manifold housing. Do this by unclipping the metal retaining clips (highlighted in blue in the image below) located on the front and the right side of the housing. There are only two clips that hold this in place. They simply unclip upwards and one remains connected to the top housing and the other remains connected to the air filter box. Once you have unclipped the air filter housing the front of it may drop away from you. It should not fall off completely as the back is held in place by the box being slid into holders in the back of the top housing. To remove the air filter box simply push the front down and when it's at a certain point pull the air filter housing towards you. This will pull it out of the rear mounts. Try to look at the rears mounts when you do this so that you can be sure you pushed it down enough to be able to pull it forward without snapping the plastic mounts on the back of the top housing. You should see this when the air filter housing has been dropped away from the top housing. The air filter itself may have stuck to the underside of the top housing like mine did so just pull it off and place to one side. I would suggest replacing it with a new filter whilst you are doing this as you will have to put it back in when you reassemble. Now just slide the air filter housing out of the engine bay so that you can continue. You will see this. Step 2 - Disconnect Electrical Connectors Disconnect the three electrical connectors as highlighted in red. The one to the left of the top housing is the actual throttle body connector. Once the one in the middle of the top housing is unplugged, make sure you gentle pull it out of the recess that the rest of the cable lies within and gently push it to one side out of the way. Do not just pull these connectors as they are made from plastic and will snap. They all have a small tab which needs to be depressed at the same time as gently pulling them. Do not pull them too hard as they do not need it. They will disconnect very easily if the tab is pressed whilst pulling them. Step 3 - Disconnect Breather Pipes/Hoses Disconnect the two breather hoses/pipes as highlighted in red. You will need to use a pair of pliers to release the retaining clips that hold the end of the pipes tightly sealed in place. Just squeeze the release arms on the retaining clips with the pliers and slide the retaining clips along the pipes until they are free of the housing connector. Now just gentle pull the hoses/pipes off the housing connectors. Again, you do not need to pull these hard. They should just slide off with a light pressure. Remove the centre hose from the recess in the top housing and push it out of the way. You should now see something like the image below. All electrical connectors have been disconnected and the hoses disconnected. I took this picture before I had moved the centre hose out of the way so you shouldn't have this in place at this stage. Next remove the breather hose mount, shown below, from the top housing. If you don't remove this you will not be able to remove the top housing completely if you leave the rear hose attached. Alternatively, you could leave it bolted on and just remove the other hose from it and then remove the top housing with the mount attached. I just unbolted it and pushed it out of the way so I didn't damage it. Once you've removed the mount then it should look like the image below. Just move it gently out of the way so that it doesn't interfere when you remove the top housing. Step 4 - Remove Top Housing You can now remove the top housing by simply removing the bolts highlighted in red in the below images. They are all 10 mm. Remove the three front bolts. Remove the two bolts on the left rear of the housing. Remove the two bolts on the right rear of the housing. Once the seven bolts have been removed you can simply pull the top of the housing up towards you and it should separate from the bottom section of the housing. Warning: Do not pull this top section up too hard. You should be able to just pull it up with a little force. The top section is attached to plastic manifold inlet pipes toward the rear and they are pretty much held on by O rings. Try to pull the top section of the housing up towards you in a straight motion. Try not to bend it as you pull it up. It should come off fairly easily. Warning: This top section actually contains the throttle body itself so take care. Do not just drop it to one side as you may damage the throttle body that you are about to clean - if you are not replacing the throttle body itself of course. You should now see the image below once the top section is removed. Step 5 - Remove Throttle Body From Top Housing Once you've pulled off the top housing turn it over to see the location of the throttle body. Simply remove the three bolts that are highlighted in red in the image below. They are 10mm so just use the same socket you used to remove the top housing bolts. Once you have removed the three bolts you can now remove the whole throttle body. The throttle body is now only held in by the top of the electrical connector on the outside of the top housing. It's a bit tight so just pull the throttle body towards you whilst wiggling it slightly as the rubber seal is a little tight. Don't put too much force as you might snap the plastic top housing. You should now see the housing like this once the throttle body has been removed. Step 6 - Clean The Throttle Body To clean the throttle body I used a small headed toothbrush, some clean rag and a good carb / throttle body cleaner. Warning: Carefully follow the instructions on the carb cleaner. Do this work in a well ventilated area, preferably outside and wear a suitable breathing mask. Take extreme care not to inhale the fumes from this cleaner or the dirt that it removes from the throttle body. I used the following carb cleaner which is available from a well known parts store for about £8. This was the state of my throttle body when I got it out. It was really clogged up and clearly sticking. Simply attach the small pipe to the can of carb cleaner and then spray into and around the inside of the intake of the throttle body and all over the butterfly valve. Then just brush the whole of the inside of the intake (front and back) and butterfly valve with the toothbrush and/or rag. The dirt should come off quite easily as the carb cleaner is really effective. Keep doing this until the intake and butterfly valve are as clean as you can get them. Keep wiping off any residue with a good clean rag as well as you do this. After about 10 minutes of cleaning I had a nice clean throttle body as shown below. Yours should look pretty similar when complete. Step 7 - Refit Your Throttle Body And Reassemble Other Parts Warning: Before refitting your cleaned throttle body you should ensure that the throttle body is dry and does not contain any residue from the cleaning agent. I left my throttle body to completely dry for about an hour or so just to be extra cautious before proceeding with refitting. Refitting your throttle body and reassembly is just really this guide in reverse from step 5 back to step 1. Warning: Take care when reattaching the top of the housing to the bottom and the intake pipes as they have O rings present. Ensure that they are correctly aligned before pushing the top housing down into place. Be careful not to pinch or tear the O rings. If it's tight to refit over the O rings then either replace the O rings or simply apply a small smear of engine oil around the O rings which should help refit the top housing. Warning: Do not over tighten the bolts that hold the throttle body in place or the top housing. Warning: Once you have reassembled everything it is a good idea to just double check that all the breather hoses are reattached and secured in place and that all the electrical connectors are attached securely. You should now be able to start the car and test accordingly. If this process has been successful then you should have a smoother throttle response and possibly more accurate. Mine stopped juddering at certain revs and seemed so much more responsive. I am also now getting much better fuel economy.