Trevor

Hi....welcome to the Forum Here are some links that may be of use to you in your search. Someone breaking a Sunny for parts: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BREAKING-1989-NISSAN-SUNNY-1-3-DX-ESTATE-SPARE-PARTS-WHEEL-NUT/283366866619?hash=item41f9fb3ebb:g:VAAAAOSwAhtcWYvp Window Regulator: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_osacat=0&_odkw=1989+nissan+sunny+parts&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=1989+nissan+sunny+window+regulator&_sacat=0 Central Locking Solenoid: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_osacat=0&_odkw=1989+nissan+sunny+window+regulator&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=1989+nissan+sunny+central+locking+solenoid&_sacat=0

It does sound like that is the case. I would take the cover off the relay and manually move the contact to see if it energises and if it does then it is either going to be an input signal (voltage) missing or a poor earth

As far as I can remember it should clear the subframe and come straight down. Clean up and replace the gasket and seal and do not overtighten bolts...should do the trick

A lot of money and definitely a weak point 😞

it is a bit quiet on here at the moment so don't mind the conversation....bit lonely otherwise 🙂

Oh dear! I am surprised that the linkage failed rather than the wiper blades splitting although I have seen this several times on MGF and TF when the linkage mechanism was so weak that it was the first point of destruction. Considering they gave you a courtesy car and that's an all-in price, its not that bad really for a dealership

glad you got there in the end and thanks for sharing the information that could help anyone else in the same situation.

I would try something like RadWeld in the radiator which may slow down the leak. There is one they do at Halfords that covers the whole cooling system and not just the radiator....less than £10 Then top the radiator to full and the coolant reservoir to half full with antifreeze/water mix.

Sounds reasonable to me .... if it wasn't for the VAT element it would look a lot cheaper being below £400

I would open the bonnet and put some jump leads on the battery to then release the boot lid

Hi Steve If the blower motor doesn't spin at all then it is unlikely to be the resistor pack as it would spin at high speed only if faulty. More than likely a fuse or the motor itself. Let us know what it turns out to be Cheers, Trevor

I think the way I would approach is that the bearing is just that....a bearing. Most bearing companies will treat it as that and measure the internal and external sizes, type of bearing, load and speed rating and then find you a suitable replacement (which may have a higher revolution speed or load rating) but I could almost guarantee that there will be something available, just not listed as a replacement Nissan wheel bearing. Try these guys: http://www.ashleypower.co.uk/

Hi Mike I have always gone to a bearing specialist supplier when I have encountered an odd one like this. May not be close to you but Ashley Bearings in Poole always come up trumps. Cheers, Trevor

I think I would ask them whilst its in for MOT as to where the leak is likely to be coming from while they have the car in the air Wouldn't think it would affect much in the way of safety if it is just a drop once in a while

Usually, they are held in place by a spring clip which is part of the jet itself. Try gently moving the jet either backwards or forwards against any spring pressure to release the jet

I would advise looking at the Coolant Temperature Sensor as a possible candidate for replacement....it's the time of year for these to fail

That's not a bad price at all especially as it had to be sent off...good result!

Would be worth checking your chassis earth return leads....found a couple of them sheared off on my X-Trail. Look down by the underside of the gearbox to where they connect to the chassis....replace if necessary (cheap and better replacement earth straps in Halfords...did the lot for £10)

lol...that's the law according to sod !

lol...the Westie will definitely secure the car. It is an easy job to replace the switched, just fiddly

I have rebuilt a few of these fobs before with a kit from eBay but as you quite rightly state....as you get older it gets more difficult to solder miniature components with an iron due to poor eyesight and shaky hands. I'm sure you might find an electronics repair shop to rebuilt the fobs for you as very little cost. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-ALMERA-PRIMERA-MICRA-X-TRIAL-NATS-2-button-Remote-key-Fob-Case-REPAIR-KIT/302184778048?epid=814607479&hash=item465b9dc940:g:0HQAAOSwB09YFOI1

Maybe it would be worth driving down to your local branch and getting them to measure up for you

Here's a link to Halfords wiper blade selection page http://www.halfords.com/motoring/bulbs-blades-batteries/wiper-blades?cm_re=mmmotoring-_-Bulbsbladesbatteries-_-Blades

Hi Sith...hopefully this is the same setup as your Micra? If so, then the adjustment is the scrolled wheel at the top of the self-adjusting ratchet lever (which incidentally must be sat within the slot in the self-adjuster rod between the shoes)....take the drum off and turn the wheel until the shoes just touch the drum and refit...try the handbrake to ensure the drum locks and runs free (with a minimal drag) and that should do it.

Glad you got it sorted