Trevor

Try moving the seat position back and forwards and try the ignition each time to see if the light goes out Sometimes its just a poor connection once disconnected

Before you replace any components I would run cleaning chemicals through the fuel and take for a long hard run to see if things improve. Once the engine temperature is hot and the revs are high enough then it should make a difference next time you start up

It should function okay, even though it is smaller the flow and filtration will still take place but maybe struggle if the revs are pushed too much Would also consider to change it more frequently as smaller surface area for the filter element so maybe keep some in stock?

Best bet is eBay, there is a link on this page. Also look for other models of Nissan from that year as may have compatible components

May take a bit to recover the release cable but if you remove the trim from within the boot area then it maybe quite accessible from there

I wonder if it is worth trying to secure the handle from inside, once the inner trim has been removed from the tailgate you may find a way

Hi Barney....welcome to the Club Haven't seen a 100NX for quite a few years now, hope you manage to resolve the issues and source the parts you need

Any key cutter should be able to reproduce one Timpsons are pretty good at older keys

Hi .... welcome to the Club How have you got on with the Qashqai so far?

Not sure but it sounds like the bonnet is loose on the catch and needs the rubber buffers adjusting to take out the free play

I wonder if the read out is faulty and the actual fuel is not dropping in the tank as it would seem The best way is to fill to the brim, run the car for a while once the mileage is reset and then refill and calculate the mileage travelled and how many litres Do a calculation and see what the actual miles per gallon work out at

Worth pulling the door card off to see what is going on inside Quite an easy job and if you need to take it to a garage then it shouldn't cost much to find the fault and repair it

You could try pouring some water over the belt (not a lot but a dribble) as the engine is running on tickover If the noise disappears then the belt is 'dry' or loose and would need replacing or tightening If the noise doesn't go then try the same process on the belt tensioner (dry bearing) and same rules apply

You could try AutoDoc who are based in Europe and may stock parts as the Sunny was sold over there Worth checking their site to see what is available

Not sure if these are parts that can be removed as the pipe remanufacturer can simply replace the damaged section and the connectors stay the same Alternatively, they would more than likely be able to source something or change the style of connector with a new male and female connectors Worth trying to see if it can be sorted through a local hydraulic pipe repair company.....I have used a local one to me for years and never failed yet on a particular job yet!

It could be the Central Locking is locked and only when the ignition is off will it open? Alternatively there is a child lock on if its a rear door

There's a few listed here with part numbers https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1313&_nkw=navara+nox+sensors&_sacat=131090

Hi Kevlar .....welcome to the Club

I would try a hydraulic pipe/hose remanufacture that makes hoses for industrial equipment such as diggers as they can make one if you take your one in as a pattern

I would imagine there should be some fault codes stored either in the engine or transmission ECUs Worth checking them out to see what comes up and work from there but definitely sounds sensor related

Thank you very much for sharing your experience and useful hints and tips I'm sure it will definitely make it much easier for anyone else attempting this job

First thoughts would have been wheel balance but other static/dynamic imbalances can give these symptoms For the driveshafts, an old trick is to put a jubliee clip (and sometimes a washer or coin underneath the clip if necessary) on the shaft and road test, if necessary, loosen one at a time and rotate slightly to place the weight over a different area to see if this balances the shaft. If it makes no difference then its not the driveshafts I would however take a look at the tyres on the front and rear by jacking up each corner at a time and spinning the wheel to see if the tyre is out of shape or has a bulge in it the tread area.

oh my goodness that is drastic - huge amount of water to dump out from inside the vehicle area I would definitely pursue this as it won't do the car any good over time

Sounds fair enough and possibly a change around on the model spec due to semi-conductor shortages along with other component shortages due to availability of parts following Brexit, Covid, etc

I would have that checked immediately as it is in the region of the brake pipes and hoses which look at first glance to have heavy corrosion on them