Trevor

Not entirely sure which ones they should be but if going to get new ones from Halfords their tablet in the bulb aisle will state which ones they should be

You'll need to remove the door card to see what has dropped off. More than likely a linkage has become detached

More than likely if there is a port to attach an aux lead you can run it through the dashboard somewhere

It probably won't have a USB now as mostly everything is streamed via Bluetooth from phones nowadays

It could possibly be the seat pre-tensionser (seatbelt stalk) connections that need looking at Usually happens when moving the seat back and forwards to a different position

Hi....welcome to the Club Nissan made some great campervans over the years and used worldwide

I have one similar to yours in my car and the aux port is around the back of the unit so I guess you have to run a lead to it behind the dash possibly Mostly everything is run through Bluetooth nowadays

Ah glad you found the fault....they usually make a 'farting' or 'hissing' sound when they are splitting but definitely a cheap repair to make

I would be careful not to break into any wires or connectors that are yellow in colour as they would be for the SRS (side airbags and pretensioners). Best to backprobe each wire and see where there is power and where each one goes (e.g. power, seat adjustment, SRS, etc)

It would be necessary to take the wiper blades off and also the rubber seals and the rest just undoes with screws and pull up to remove Have you also tried compressed air down the jet (does clear the muck but unless the hose is removed then it just sends it down the tube so best to disconnect it beforehand

I think the vehicle should take 2.5" spacers and when the weight it down on the shocks then it should be fine....only one way to find out though 🙂

Definitely do a fuel filter change and see how it goes then.....keep us updated

Definitely sounds like movement in the transmission so there should be a brace type mount to limit the movement between the body and the gearbox

Can you not run some fuse wire down the jets to see if they are blocked as may be the pump at fault

Not entirely sure if it will work without coding into the car's network The alternative is to fit an aftermarket head unit (Halfords sell a good range) which may be cheaper and run the latest software and apps to connect to the phone, etc

A very long shot but if the 4WD but I had similar error on my L200 and it was broken and perished small bore rubber hoses running to the axles and transfer box....replaced them and error disappeared

Threaten an ombudsman to the RAC directly and see what they come up with They may have an independent assessor go to the garage which they should do if the garage is an approved repairer

The colour is not an issue but the type is (all coolants now are of the OATS type)

Try disconnecting the lamps and then reconnecting as it may be the CanBus not recognising the extra load you have introduced into the system

Sorry if its blatantly obvious but it seems that you are driving it in 4wd on the tarmac? This is why the wheels are skidding, thumping and lower power as you are driving all the wheels at the same time and this is detrimental on tarmac only to be done on soft ground or loose surfaces Also the transmission is 'winding up' which is causing the issues with the ABS and speed sensors Try running it in 2wd all of the time and you shouldn't have any issues Good also to put in 4WD when on the appropriate surfaces every so often to keep everything in the 4WD system working free

The first fault sounds like it could be the driveshaft or the joint(s) that is excessively worn or even damaged I would have that checked for play as it that lets go then it could be a problem and may take out other components if it lets go the second fault sounds like its one that the handbook may carry the answer, sorry

I think you can switch off this setting as it can be annoying especially if the disc is not updated

I think I would get onto the RAC and insist they oversee this situation. I cannot see how an ECU has anything to do with a lack of compression and should be a straightforward job Keep us updated on how it goes

The wheel bearing should fit into the hub assembly and the flange goes into the middle of the wheel bearing If the flange is worn (as in wear tracks on the outer surface then this has been known to cause slack between the bearing even when torqued down. The metal is a lot softer than the wheel bearing casing which is hardened steel so can wear prematurely - had it happen on my X-Trail and bought a secondhand hub assembly and new bearing to sort it

Maybe worth disconnecting the battery and leaving for about half hour then reconnect. Sometimes the electrical system can fall over itself and needs a reboot Start there and then try the controls once more