Trevor

I would imagine unless the coolant all dumped at the one time into the engine then it would have gradually been introduced into the combustion which at minimum have created a fine mist which would be burnt in combustion. Has it mixed with the engine oil? Does the engine misfire? Water injection in diesel engines is used efficiently to produce power and lower emissions so the pistons would show as cleaned (almost steam-cleaned) and no further damage Too much water then this can erode the aluminium pistons and even the valves I would ask whether they could use a non-intrusive method of inspection such as a boroscope inspection through the injector or glow plug holes or even through the inlet or exhaust ports (manifolds removed) Alternatively, they could run compression checks on the cylinders to see is there is any loss on one or more cylinders which would indicate damage has occurred

Possibly try a vehicle wrapping company as they would have done work like this to de-chrome cars

Some of these functions should be programmable by the dealer The auto-locking is something that may be regional (country) and also a requirement from the insurance companies Not sure about the one touch door locking though

May have popped a fuse if the mirror wires are exposed or touching each other or earth

Hi Carl.....welcome to the Forum Feel free to dive in and assist with any posts Good to have you onboard!

It certainly sounds like the oil is blocking somewhere along the line. Have you changed the oil filter? If not then this is more than likely the cause for the symptoms you are describing

Is it petrol or diesel?

Should be under the front bumper area and may be accessible if you lie down under the front?

It doesn't sound right and more than likely the seat base has possibly been removed and not refitted correctly. Try pulling it up, examining what the item sticking through it is and see if there is another way to secure it

Could be the battery condition/strength or the battery leads loose or broken Also, have you tried another key fob (if you have another one)?

I would check or replace the battery if it is dying that quickly. Also check the battery leads, especially the earth lead as putting the door on may have made an earth connection that illuminated the headlights

It may well be suitable but imagine it would have to be programmed into the vehicle (e.g. steering angle reset)

Your dealer should be able to programme this feature so it is disabled Some countries do not allow the beeps so it can be done

It sounds like non-original belts (made in China) have been used and these will always squeal so worth buying original Nissan parts to rectify this issue. Also, check that they are tensioned correctly as they may have stretched (another issue with non-original belts)

If there is no possibility of them being removed from above then it is an under the dashboard job, may be easier to remove any loose panels for access

Sounds like the lighting relay is defective

Is there anything that prompts it to power the USB or is it that intermittent? Looks like it will be a trip to an audio specialist but considering the age of the vehicle I would pop into your dealer for them to resolve it

Probably find one in a scrapyard (although not too many of them left nowadays)

Sounds like it needs reprogramming back into the car Not sure what year the Qashqai is or which type of key but here is a link to some YouTube videos on key programming which you could try https://www.google.com/search?q=nissan+qashqai+key+programming&rlz=1C5CHFA_enGB935GB935&source=lnms&tbm=vid&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiGqbvW9Ob6AhXJglwKHZ5fCNAQ_AUoAXoECAEQAw&biw=1667&bih=942&dpr=1

Hi...welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

Hi...welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

That is not right if the brakes are spongy and should be returned to rectify the fault

No, that is not the case, the pedal should be up the top and firm not at the bottom of its travel. Sounds like they have not set up the brake compensator (if fitted) and this is affecting the brake pressure. Alternatively, there may be air trapped in the system and needs bleeding out

I believe it is a case of lifting it up from the shift lever but watch your face as it flies up .... been there and it hurt 🙂

Like any radiator, you would need to drain and recover the coolant (which could be reused if the antifreeze strength is sufficient. Removal is then just a case of remove and refit components and then ensure there is no air trapped in the cooling system by running up and observing the temperature (hopefully the fan will kick in as well) and also check the heater blows hot