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I use a smart screen with Android Auto. Then connect my phone via BlueTooth and use Waze map. Less expensive and live updates of accidents, traffic jams etc.

I had the same problem radio cutting off there is a fee upgrade from nissan now work perfectly it's a common problem

Hello, I am joining this forum with hopes to be able to supply you guys with some hard to come by parts for your beloved Nissans, as the title states we are the second oldest Nissan dealer in the uk and we are looking to move some of our older parts that have been stored away for years. I will be doing a follow up post with our parts list which should have thousands of items for you guys to sift through at your leisure, I just wanted to test the waters to see how helpful this would be for you guys, any responses or comments appreciated. Kind regards, Oscar

Hi all! Im thinking of getting a Pathfinder in the next month or two. Wanted something bigger for going fishing/camping and always loved the look of the Pathfinder. Especially the older shape (07/08 models). Has anyone got a rot free one with upgraded timing chain they are thinking of parting with? Thanks in advance 🤘🏻🙂 Harry

Hi everyone Just joined, so saying hi from sunny Brighton. I have recently purchased a Nissan Qashqai (2010) model and loving it so far jay316

Hi everyone, I am Sid and I own a 1993 K reg 1.6 Sunny SR. Looking for a few bits and bobs and hopefully good advise. Thanks All.

oh very nice car ! Welcome to the forum and keep us updated on the progress

Sounds like water ingress into the electronics or sensors (not sure how deep the water was). If it is allowed to dry out in the sun then possibly it may work then.

Hi Paul, thanks for reply. the files are mp3, so should all play. I am using a one of the newer sticks, USB-C, in case older sticks don’t work on the latest latest players. So everything is compatible. i will up date this saga after the visit to the dealer who is going to check player in the car.

Possibly but the more I have driven it the more annoying all the bings and bongs have become. It maybe just that it is a rental but the radio is frankly crap. Can't find stations or when it does won't follow them on long journeys as frequencies change. This is true on the FM and DAB. The SatNav isn't interactive unlike my Kia so no notice of traffic, roadworks or road closures. The speed monitoring is pretty up and down with it registering the wrong speed limit about 50% of the time resulting in more bings and bongs it it thinks the limit is lower than it really is. These are irritations because I like the higher driving position and the vision. The seats are comfy and plenty of room for a car of it's size. Getting up to about 1200 miles now. My car is still in dock. When I get it back I shall be looking for a replacement. The Juke will be on the list to look at but I would need an HeV.

Thanks Trevor on further investigation we have found similar fault on other Vehicle's and it was found to be Evaporative sensor ( Ambient Thermostat) have one on order but nil stock Australia due in a couple weeks I will post the result

My Adblue light came on just before Christmas, it jumped from 1500 miles to 750 miles to 384 miles within seconds. I filled up but the light remained on and did not reset. I put some specialist cleaner in the Adblue tank to clear any crystallisation that may have taken place. That did not resolve it. It has therefore gone to the garage. They have called advising there is an Adblue update they need to put on the car, I am assuming that relates to the onboard computer. That makes no sense why the other would happen. Anyone had a similar experience. I am waiting for a call back to see if that resolves the issue but it doesn't sound right.

Maybe it is the same sensor part number if the lead is long enough to reach - that is assuming it has a B sensor.....if you do find another there, change the plugs over to the A sensor and see if the fault transfers to A sensor

Hi....welcome to the Club I'm not entirely sure if there is a 'bolt on' to add an extra gear or how you could go about adapting anything to fit. However, you may be able to play with the gear ratios in the final drive or even the rolling diameter of the wheels/tyres to affect the mph to revs range

Hi All Just introducing myself. I have owned my 2005 350Z Roadster for circa 10 years now and enjoyed it. My other automotive hobby being a Megapin single seater circuit race car which I am rebuilding as it has been garaged by the previous owner for several years. I am replacing the engine and all the fibreglass parts with carbon fibre which has taken me circa 3-4 years to perfect. So I now offer carbon fibre parts like aero boot wings etc My 350Z has lots of parts during my ownership including a Jap speed K4 cat back exhaust, Mohair soft top, lots of bracing and I am about to replace the throttle body for the 75mm offering, I just need to machine the fitting plate and make a 75mm carbon fibre inlet pipe. In my early days of ownership like lots of other owners experienced the knock from the front suspension so replaced the shocks & springs then found out it was the Barings in the banana arm Dhoh. Thats reminds me I still have the original shocks and springs lol Anyway I hope to be posting some of my experiences with the car and I'm happy to help anyone thats encounters anything I have experience with. Cheers Chris

Hi All , Had our X Trail Acenta since May 29th and love it hope to learn from. This group. Cheers Steve.

Hi there, I have a 1967 Nissan Patrol sitting in my shed. Originally the family car, then in recent times used as a fire fighting vehicle on acreage. Last three years not used at all.Original engine turns over (with a squirt of fuel into Carby) Odometer 98,000 miles. This would be a great project for an enthusiast but I don’t know where to start to advertise my vehicle or what value I should place on it. Can anyone offer any guidance? Thank you in anticipation.

Cheers everyone will give it a go when I'm on holiday in 3 weeks for 3 weeks. Scot

Have a look at the offering from AutoCom as I think this may cover the ABS

Hi all Just popped in to say hello from Kingston upon Hull. About to purchase my first Nissan. A 1.0 DIG-T 117 N-Sport 2019. After having issues with Ford. Hopefully, i have chosen wisely.

Hi Hoping someone can help with problem I am having with my QX. Car starts but tickover not smooth. As soon as you touch accelerator pedal it dies. Eventually after numerous attempts it will rev up but will not rev past 2000rpm. just pops and bangs which obviously is not good. If you engage drive (4 speed auto with overdrive) it stalls. Need to hold revs at around 1300 -1400rpm to get it to pullaway but of course it does so with a jerk. Once on the go gearbox changes are often hesitent along with its reluctance to rev. Have serviced the car along with new plugs. Even changed transmission oil. No Engine management warning lights on dash. No warning lights of any kind. Car has covered just under 130,000 miles and never had any problems like this before. Has always started 1st time and run smooth as clockwork. Any ideas/suggestions as to cause and cure would be gratefully appreciated. Many thanks Mike

Neve mind... wife didn't have the headlight switch turned up all the way. Problem solved.

My nearside wing mirror smashed against a badly parked white van's mirror. The body of the mirror is fine but no glass! Any ideas? Like in Ian's case, one lady owner from new 31st July 1995. EMMA

Hi again, i have found the culprit! before replacing the fuel filter i gave the hoses another check over, turns out the boost pressure hose has a big split in it around 2 inch in length! I have a new one on order. For now, i taped around the hose to “bodge” it and straight away the difference in pulling power was night and day!.. a big puff of black smoke and off she went! A fresh MOT and the family wagon is back on the road. 👏

Hi Trevor, thanks for the info. I'm going to be replacing the transfer box sensors shortly so I'll take a look whilst I'm under there. Im not 100% sure what I'm doing but trying hard to get the car operational asap. I've tried everything I can think of so far and still no dice. I appreciate the thinking and will let you know how I get on

I wonder if the read out is faulty and the actual fuel is not dropping in the tank as it would seem The best way is to fill to the brim, run the car for a while once the mileage is reset and then refill and calculate the mileage travelled and how many litres Do a calculation and see what the actual miles per gallon work out at

Hi all I own a Note Acenta 1.4, no where near fast but very practical and probably one of the best cars I have ever owned

Now that could be both suspension or brakes Brakes is more like a clicking noise if the pads are moving in the carrier but if the caliper is loose then this will also make a noise Check the caliper is firmly secured it will flop around and you will hear a clunking noise if not If you place a wheel wrench on the wheel nut and move the car backwards and fowards with it that should narrow down the are of the noise

hi I a;ready bought 2 adapters - for radio and for TV but where to install them? no idea where tv and radio amplifier are ..8-) atm has changed some things.. on the bonnet is the "proper" emblem - not lying but standing- and I should finish - maybe today adding a SECOND sound system with modern radio and another set of speakers. Because inside is a very complicated Bosse system and no1 in Bristol wanted to work with my Nissan I decided to put inside the second system..So I will have all the modern tools like Bloototh, wi-fi and of course Uk radio with normal frequency. I will post some pictures when I finish it completely and here are the pictures

Hello there im searching for a 1990 sunny coupe gti rear spoiler, hope somewhan can help me find one or hase one for sale.

Hi keithtoon ....welcome to the Club There are aftermarket companies on the internet selling SatNav update discs but beware, some work and some don't ! They are not too expensive and worth a try as cheaper than main dealer

Welcome to the Club

Well this is its " I've saved it from the previous owner" look lol. But there are a few bits needed to get it how I want it

You've no doubt got this sorted Felicity, but just in case you haven't, I recently bought a set of 2 for my 2010 R51 for $79.00 NZ, from Broughmach Auto in Australia. Free postage and arrived in 6 days. The company has good reviews.

Hi Trevor, thanks for your response! That gives me a bit more confidence that its just going to be a bit of a learning curve

I have had the car checked and there are no issues. It appears to be a fault with the app and Nissan are looking into it.

Morning gents and ladies! New member and also a new Nissian owner N16 Almera 2006 1.5 petrol! Joined here to help with modding this car ! I've already posted a question so I shan't post it in here as well! Look forward to speaking with you all!

Thanks for your advice Trevor. ill take a look.

Hi Luke.....welcome to the Club I would say you are correct that it is the antenna and as far as I am aware it would not need coding to the vehicle as it does not generate or hold the immobilise code (the ECU would have that information) it simply amplifies the signal from the immobiliser chip in the key fob

Hi guys new here and just a show of my modified 350z sparky IMG_1606.MOV

I get this exact issue with my 2016 Juke, I connect to it through bluetooth and use spotify and it will just randomly pause for 10 seconds every now and again. I made sure to turn off traffic announcements, which helped a bit, but it still happens sometimes. Let me know if the re-calibration helps, i'll have to get it done myself!

Thanks 😊 yeah you don’t see many and when I saw it come up for sale and the condition it was in I couldn’t pass it up. Only 49k from new! great to be on board 👌🏻

Probably more economical as well Maybe worthwhile looking through Autocar reviews on both models to see how they fair in a road test

Thanks i did not think it would . he says he a has changed a few with no probs

Thanks Trevor, I feel the same, it's still under Warranty and I've since found out they can be re-calibrated for free so I'm going to pop into my local Nissan. I'll keep you posted with result 🙂

Hi guys I'm new to the group hoping to buy a 2018 nissan micra 1.5dci with 18k on the clock... im abit unsure if I should buy it as I only seem to find negative reviews. I was wondering if anyone had any positive experiences with the micra. How reliable are they? What are the common faults etc... Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks Luke

Thanks Trevor..

Sadly not! We had to pay the cost of replacement Clutch of £1800 plus an AA report of £200. The AA sent ACE (Automotive Consulting Engineers Ltd) to carry out the inspection which concluded that the Clutch had over heated which caused the failure. No suggestion as to cause other than abuse and referred to Towing in the report which did not mention that there is not a Tow Bar on the car! The report appeared to me to have a large element of "cut and paste" about it. I tried to contact ACE for more details of the inspection but they did not respond I contacted Nissan and asked if they could Inspect the components and the Dual Mass Fly Wheel, they declined and suggested I look on the Internet to find someone to inspect it but could not suggest anyone. The Nissan "Adviser" declined to discuss the matter any further with me and refused to put through to a Manager. We reject the suggestion that we "ride" the clutch as there is adequate spec by the clutch pedal to rest the foot and we have suddenly become bad drivers. I took legal advise and my Solicitor advised that we could become involved in a costly dispute. We are left with a car that my wife is reluctant to drive as she has lost faith in it. We ask ourselves three questions. Would we buy another Nissan, would we recommend a friend to buy a Nissan and are we satisfied with Nissan's Customer Care? NO, NO, ABSOLUTELY NOT.

Nissan Micra K12 Throttle Body Removal and Clean Welcome to this guide on how to remove and clean the throttle body on a Nissan Micra K12. This procedure was done on a 1.2 2003 petrol model. As I couldn't find a good tutorial on this process I thought I would have a go myself and then put together this guide for other people. The process is actually relatively straight forward once you know how. I was experiencing juddering at certain points on the rev range and when the car was in a certain gear, MPG had decreased plus some hunting when the car was idle. So I decided that I would clean the throttle body to see if that would help. I actually didn't know exactly where the throttle body was located on this model. It's actually located under the air intake box/top manifolds which are shown below. It's actually located inside and under the top of the plastic manifold housing. Once you have removed the throttle body you will realise that it's actually connected to one of the electrical connections on the top of the housing that you will need to disconnect as part of this process. Throttle body location This is where the throttle body is location on a 2003 1.2 petrol Nissan Micra K12. Tools required This is a list of tools and other items required to get to the throttle body, remove it from the housing and then clean it: Pliers or grips 10 mm socket Ratchet Toothbrush or cotton buds and an old but clean cloth A good carb/throttle body cleaner The process So here are the steps. Step 1 - Remove the air intake and air filter box Remove the air intake pipe (highlighted by the red arrow) by removing the plastic lugs that hold it to the front of the engine bay and then remove the other end from the air filter housing on the right. I had to slightly twist mine and then gave it a hard pull to detach it. Then remove the air filter housing from the manifold housing. Do this by unclipping the metal retaining clips (highlighted in blue in the image below) located on the front and the right side of the housing. There are only two clips that hold this in place. They simply unclip upwards and one remains connected to the top housing and the other remains connected to the air filter box. Once you have unclipped the air filter housing the front of it may drop away from you. It should not fall off completely as the back is held in place by the box being slid into holders in the back of the top housing. To remove the air filter box simply push the front down and when it's at a certain point pull the air filter housing towards you. This will pull it out of the rear mounts. Try to look at the rears mounts when you do this so that you can be sure you pushed it down enough to be able to pull it forward without snapping the plastic mounts on the back of the top housing. You should see this when the air filter housing has been dropped away from the top housing. The air filter itself may have stuck to the underside of the top housing like mine did so just pull it off and place to one side. I would suggest replacing it with a new filter whilst you are doing this as you will have to put it back in when you reassemble. Now just slide the air filter housing out of the engine bay so that you can continue. You will see this. Step 2 - Disconnect Electrical Connectors Disconnect the three electrical connectors as highlighted in red. The one to the left of the top housing is the actual throttle body connector. Once the one in the middle of the top housing is unplugged, make sure you gentle pull it out of the recess that the rest of the cable lies within and gently push it to one side out of the way. Do not just pull these connectors as they are made from plastic and will snap. They all have a small tab which needs to be depressed at the same time as gently pulling them. Do not pull them too hard as they do not need it. They will disconnect very easily if the tab is pressed whilst pulling them. Step 3 - Disconnect Breather Pipes/Hoses Disconnect the two breather hoses/pipes as highlighted in red. You will need to use a pair of pliers to release the retaining clips that hold the end of the pipes tightly sealed in place. Just squeeze the release arms on the retaining clips with the pliers and slide the retaining clips along the pipes until they are free of the housing connector. Now just gentle pull the hoses/pipes off the housing connectors. Again, you do not need to pull these hard. They should just slide off with a light pressure. Remove the centre hose from the recess in the top housing and push it out of the way. You should now see something like the image below. All electrical connectors have been disconnected and the hoses disconnected. I took this picture before I had moved the centre hose out of the way so you shouldn't have this in place at this stage. Next remove the breather hose mount, shown below, from the top housing. If you don't remove this you will not be able to remove the top housing completely if you leave the rear hose attached. Alternatively, you could leave it bolted on and just remove the other hose from it and then remove the top housing with the mount attached. I just unbolted it and pushed it out of the way so I didn't damage it. Once you've removed the mount then it should look like the image below. Just move it gently out of the way so that it doesn't interfere when you remove the top housing. Step 4 - Remove Top Housing You can now remove the top housing by simply removing the bolts highlighted in red in the below images. They are all 10 mm. Remove the three front bolts. Remove the two bolts on the left rear of the housing. Remove the two bolts on the right rear of the housing. Once the seven bolts have been removed you can simply pull the top of the housing up towards you and it should separate from the bottom section of the housing. Warning: Do not pull this top section up too hard. You should be able to just pull it up with a little force. The top section is attached to plastic manifold inlet pipes toward the rear and they are pretty much held on by O rings. Try to pull the top section of the housing up towards you in a straight motion. Try not to bend it as you pull it up. It should come off fairly easily. Warning: This top section actually contains the throttle body itself so take care. Do not just drop it to one side as you may damage the throttle body that you are about to clean - if you are not replacing the throttle body itself of course. You should now see the image below once the top section is removed. Step 5 - Remove Throttle Body From Top Housing Once you've pulled off the top housing turn it over to see the location of the throttle body. Simply remove the three bolts that are highlighted in red in the image below. They are 10mm so just use the same socket you used to remove the top housing bolts. Once you have removed the three bolts you can now remove the whole throttle body. The throttle body is now only held in by the top of the electrical connector on the outside of the top housing. It's a bit tight so just pull the throttle body towards you whilst wiggling it slightly as the rubber seal is a little tight. Don't put too much force as you might snap the plastic top housing. You should now see the housing like this once the throttle body has been removed. Step 6 - Clean The Throttle Body To clean the throttle body I used a small headed toothbrush, some clean rag and a good carb / throttle body cleaner. Warning: Carefully follow the instructions on the carb cleaner. Do this work in a well ventilated area, preferably outside and wear a suitable breathing mask. Take extreme care not to inhale the fumes from this cleaner or the dirt that it removes from the throttle body. I used the following carb cleaner which is available from a well known parts store for about £8. This was the state of my throttle body when I got it out. It was really clogged up and clearly sticking. Simply attach the small pipe to the can of carb cleaner and then spray into and around the inside of the intake of the throttle body and all over the butterfly valve. Then just brush the whole of the inside of the intake (front and back) and butterfly valve with the toothbrush and/or rag. The dirt should come off quite easily as the carb cleaner is really effective. Keep doing this until the intake and butterfly valve are as clean as you can get them. Keep wiping off any residue with a good clean rag as well as you do this. After about 10 minutes of cleaning I had a nice clean throttle body as shown below. Yours should look pretty similar when complete. Step 7 - Refit Your Throttle Body And Reassemble Other Parts Warning: Before refitting your cleaned throttle body you should ensure that the throttle body is dry and does not contain any residue from the cleaning agent. I left my throttle body to completely dry for about an hour or so just to be extra cautious before proceeding with refitting. Refitting your throttle body and reassembly is just really this guide in reverse from step 5 back to step 1. Warning: Take care when reattaching the top of the housing to the bottom and the intake pipes as they have O rings present. Ensure that they are correctly aligned before pushing the top housing down into place. Be careful not to pinch or tear the O rings. If it's tight to refit over the O rings then either replace the O rings or simply apply a small smear of engine oil around the O rings which should help refit the top housing. Warning: Do not over tighten the bolts that hold the throttle body in place or the top housing. Warning: Once you have reassembled everything it is a good idea to just double check that all the breather hoses are reattached and secured in place and that all the electrical connectors are attached securely. You should now be able to start the car and test accordingly. If this process has been successful then you should have a smoother throttle response and possibly more accurate. Mine stopped juddering at certain revs and seemed so much more responsive. I am also now getting much better fuel economy.