Leaderboard

I had the same problem radio cutting off there is a fee upgrade from nissan now work perfectly it's a common problem

Hello, I am joining this forum with hopes to be able to supply you guys with some hard to come by parts for your beloved Nissans, as the title states we are the second oldest Nissan dealer in the uk and we are looking to move some of our older parts that have been stored away for years. I will be doing a follow up post with our parts list which should have thousands of items for you guys to sift through at your leisure, I just wanted to test the waters to see how helpful this would be for you guys, any responses or comments appreciated. Kind regards, Oscar

Hi all! Im thinking of getting a Pathfinder in the next month or two. Wanted something bigger for going fishing/camping and always loved the look of the Pathfinder. Especially the older shape (07/08 models). Has anyone got a rot free one with upgraded timing chain they are thinking of parting with? Thanks in advance 🤘🏻🙂 Harry

Thanks for that info Trevor.

its amazing how powerful the media can be in resolving such issues with manufacturers - keep trying as you may get a good outcome

thanks admin. I'll take some pics, and post later. Any views on the 1.2 engines?

Hi , have just joined so I can find out more about my 1991 Nissan Coupe. Its an import but would love to know if any others exist in the UK? Or indeed Europe .Nissan CoupeNissan Coupe Hope the link works but if not its in Yellow Pearl and is the same as that in the Nissan Heritage museum. Thanks in anticipation

I got a good set of used tires (4) and put em on there. $85 for just mount and balance but that’s how it rolls. Wierdest experience ever leaving the tire shop. Truck was clattering along like one or more tires seriously out of balance. I was like dreading having to go back and force the issue(s). And then within a few miles at moderate speeds the clattering went away entirely and then smooth running. Like? But that works. They put double balance weights on each wheel. They have the push ins at the inside of the wheel at the tire. And they have glue ons inside the spokes to the outside of the tire. In three cases, the weights are pretty much opposite each other on the wheels! I never saw anything like that before. Like they balanced each wheel twice? This is a very experienced tire shop, for the record. 😯

I wasn’t planning on buying a Nissan Leaf. I was only vaguely aware it was an option. We had been contemplating a fully electric car for a while, but were torn between a smaller vehicle and a larger one with a significant towing capacity. It was a toss-up between a Tesla Model Y as the larger option or something else as the smaller option, but we didn’t know what the something else would be. We stumbled into the local Nissan dealer while out window-shopping for cars recently, and they showed us three used Nissan Leafs they had in stock. After many questions with the dealer and a test drive, we bought the 2020 Nissan Leaf Tekna 40 kWh, subject to financing. I spent the next few days researching all I could about the car and organising financing and insurance. A week after the initial test drive, we drove the shiny new toy off the lot and took it home. This is our first fully electric vehicle. I previously had a non-plugin hybrid, so I was familiar with regenerative braking. However, driving a fully electric car is a different experience, so there would be a learning curve. The first and most apparent difference in the driving experience is the buttery smooth transition between accelerating and decelerating and the equally jolt-free transition from stationary to moving and from moving to stationary. Pulling up to a traffic light or otherwise coming to a complete stop is smooth, with no engine vibration, no jolt from a change in gears, etc. It’s an absolute joy to drive. The Nissan Leaf has an ePedal feature. This feature must be manually engaged when you start the car using a pull switch in the centre console near the gear stick. When engaged, the car maximises regenerative braking. Usually, when you press a car’s brake pedal, the car’s forward momentum is arrested as brake pads heat up through friction. All the car’s forward momentum energy is transferred to the brake pads' heating, so it’s lost as heat energy. When you lift your foot from the accelerator while the ePedal feature is engaged, the Leaf’s motor instantly becomes a generator. This happens each time the car slows down while driving, which can be quite often if you are in the city or the journey is primarily stop and go. All the car’s forward momentum is captured as energy used to charge the battery for as long as you’re braking. The transition from motor (using energy from the battery) to generator (putting energy into the battery) is instant and seamless. The more stop and go and braking (lifting your foot from the accelerator), the more energy is reclaimed and put back into the battery. Where the difference in driving experience is noticeable between the Leaf and a regular ICE (Internal Combustion Engine) car, is that the braking effect from just lifting your foot off the accelerator is considerably more acute – especially when ePedal is engaged. In other words, the car slows down much faster than you might otherwise expect. It takes a bit of getting used to. I love the ePedal, but my wife doesn’t. I do have to remember to engage the ePedal feature each time. Sometimes I forget, and then engage it after I’ve started moving the car, such as reversing out of the garage. The car then almost immediately comes to a complete stop due to the braking effect, so I’m still getting used to this. Range anxiety, or the fear of running out of battery charge at inconvenient times, is a genuine concern. Although the fear is real, we’ve not encountered any actual issues in practice. The car has three charging options, each associated with one of two different charging connectors under the small flap in front of the bonnet. When unlatched, either by pressing the button on the key fob or the button on a panel to the left of the steering wheel, the flap can be raised to reveal the two charging ports. The one on the left is the CHAdeMO charging port for fast charging (up to 50 kW). When at a fast charging station, you connect the cable physically and permanently attached to the charge pole into this slot. The charging port on the right side is for AC charging. Two cables come with the car for use with this slower AC charging port. One has a regular household plug on the end, which you use to plug the car in at home. That will give you a trickle charge (2.3 kW) which is relatively slow and typically requires the car to be plugged in overnight to charge the battery fully from near empty. The other is for charging faster at paid locations while out and about (6.6 kW). It’s slower than the CHAdeMO fast charger but fast enough to give you a decent charge after a couple of hours, such as while out shopping or at a restaurant. The CHAdeMO charger could take me from 15% to 80% in about half an hour. While researching the car, before I had paid for it, I learned that getting a battery SOH (State Of Health) report was prudent. Fortunately, the Nissan dealer accommodated this request and provided me with the report. In my case, the report showed the battery was still at 100% health. If the battery health deteriorates below a certain threshold after a certain period, the warranty kicks in and you can have the battery replaced under the warranty. As my Leaf is only 5 years old and came with just 18,500 KM, I did not expect any significant degradation. Using a dongle and a smartphone app called LeafSpy, you can extract detailed telemetry from the car, which provides much more in-depth insights into the vehicle’s usage, battery charging history, etc. I have yet to dive into that. The two charging cables that come with the car are heavy duty, and not the easiest to fold away tidily into the pocket on the inside of the boot. Life with a fully electric car now involves the logistics of managing these cables, taking them out and wrapping them away again after each charge session, etc. We’ve left the AC charger with the household plug permanently plugged in to a socket in the garage, so it’s always conveniently placed to plug in when the car is in the garage. However, it only just reaches. The cable is 5m long. The car itself is 4.5m long. Using extension cords is ill advised for various reasons, so having a plug socket adjacent to where the car is parked while charging is a consideration. You can find out how much charge the battery has at any point from the dashboard while the car is turned on, but there is also a Nissan smartphone app called NissanConnect EV, which you can use to access that information remotely. The car periodically communicates charging telemetry with Nissan’s computing cloud. The app then reads that data from the cloud to provide you updates. We’ve found this slow and the app somewhat buggy and limited. There’s another app called My Leaf. That’s marginally better but still quite slow to refresh and display updated information. With both apps, the information is never immediately at your fingertips – there’s always an annoying delay getting the refreshed data. Our experience with charging while out and about has been a little hit and miss. Our local McDonald’s has a charging pole from Vattenfall. There are two bays and three charging cable types. I’ve attempted to use it twice. Both times I’ve been able to park and hook up, but one time there was a message on the screen indicating there was no power available. I called the number listed and spoke to a real person, but they said they could do nothing since it was outside of regular office hours. The other time it worked perfectly, and I charged from 15% to 80% by the time I finished my meal. Fortunately, my employer provides free charging for electric vehicles. I’ve been able to charge my vehicle to 100% each time I’ve parked at the office, even when I only worked for a half-day. There are dozens of charging networks around the country and Europe. This means you might individually need to subscribe to each network to access their charging locations, which can be quite a hassle. I decided to take out a charge subscription with the ANWB, which affords me access to a wide range of chargers around the country and Europe. Although this doesn’t grant me access to every charge location, it covers a very wide range, and their app helps me identify locations, how many bays are available, what charge connection types are supported, how much it costs to charge there, etc. Being a relatively new car, at just 5 years old, it’s in very good condition. There are no dings or dents and it looks and feels as new. That said, we did have the red airbag warning light come on after a few days. The car is now booked in for a warranty repair of whatever that problem is. Otherwise, we can find no issues with the car. The car feels less spacious inside than other cars we’ve owned (our Citroen Picasso and Renault Megane were both larger vehicles on the inside). Somehow, I feel a little more enclosed in the Leaf. There is less space in the front seats than I would like. I’ve taken to placing a small towel between my right leg and the center console, as my right leg rests against the center console’s hard plastic otherwise, and it can feel a little uncomfortable after a while. After starting the car, I plug in my iPhone to use Apple’s Car Play in-car system. There’s nothing wrong with Nissan’s own in-car system, which seems nicely laid out and easy to use. I’ve just become accustomed to using Car Play in other vehicles and like it. My only gripe is that it can take up to thirty seconds after switching on and plugging the USB cable into the iPhone before the Car Play interface loads and starts. That might not sound like much but that’s about 25 seconds after I wanted to drive away already, and the delay this causes is often inconvenient. I don’t want to have to operate the touchscreen after I’ve started moving, for obvious reasons. One of the Leaf Tekna's really cool features is its 360-degree camera vision. When the camera is engaged (automatically while in reverse or otherwise when pressing a button), the views from the various cameras are stitched together to depict a top-down view of the car so that you can see all around it. This ensures you don’t bump into anything when manoeuvring the car around tight spaces, and it gives you more peace of mind and confidence while reversing. The Leaf's primary fast-charging port is the CHAdeMO port. However, this standard is outgoing and being replaced by the CCS (Combined Charging System) standard. As the CCS standard slowly takes over, fewer fast chargers will have CHAdeMO. Eventually, it will be necessary to get an adapter. Currently, there are a few adapters on the market, but it is early days and they are expensive, ranging anywhere from €750 to €1100. Having an adapter will open up a lot more charging options for the Leaf, but I expect the prices to come down over time as more adapters become available and economies of scale kick in. Other nice features of the Leaf are the adaptive cruise control and lane assist. Adaptive cruise control means you can set a speed and the car will automatically adjust up and down (without going over) as required depending on whether traffic is ahead of you. If traffic in front slows down, so will the Leaf. When the traffic ahead speeds up, so will the Leaf. The lane assist will keep the Leaf in lane even during light turns. Technically, you can take your hands off the wheel, and the car will still steer itself. There are limitations. It doesn’t work for anything other than a slight bend in the road, and the system will warn you if it detects you’ve let go of the steering wheel for over a few seconds. While engaged, the cruise control warns you if you get too close to, or go over, the white road line markings. It grabs your attention with audible and physical alerts. You hear what sounds like a car horn and the steering wheel vibrates simultaneously. Nissan got this just right. Together, these warning signals grab your attention but are not so shocking as to scare the wits out of you. We have noticed that the indicated range at the start of any journey is much more optimistic than what we get in practice. When leaving my office with 100% battery charge, the car indicates a range of 255 KM. After driving 40 KM to my home, the range is indicated to be around 190 KM. Despite only driving 40 KM, the indicated range reduced by as much as 65 KM. Much of my drive home is on the motorway, where there is limited scope for capturing regenerative braking energy, but it still feels like we’re getting less than what’s promised – especially on longer trips. There is a touchscreen LCD display, but I find the resolution to be average at best. It could benefit from having a better resolution, not to mention a slightly higher placement on the dash, so we’re not having to look down at it so much. Even though the Tekna is the more premium version of the Leaf, it doesn’t have electrically operated seat adjustments for the passenger and driver seats. I really miss that. It does have a very good sound system, which we really like. That said, the Bose base unit in the boot does seem to take up some boot space. Also a missing feature is an automatic boot operation. My wife misses that feature also. Overall, we’re very happy with our 5-year-old 2020 Nissan Leaf Tekna 40 kWh. The positives outweigh the negatives by quite some margin. The car is delightful to drive. We’re thrilled with the purchase and have made a relatively seamless transition to fully electric driving.

Yes correct! replaced the battery - all sorted - never seen a car react like that just for low battery - weird!

Thank you Trevor, much appreciated, I would consider putting bigger wheels on it, but looking at the lump it so much reminds me of the Terrano 2.7 lump, part of me wants to get hold of one to see id it fits! I have gone down that road years ago when younger, But I also recall those small differences which take a week each to conquer! I'm less patient than I used to be and ache quicker!👍

Thanks - I got a new primer pump and it didn't help at all. I could try a new filter, but I did change that one recently.

Hi....welcome to the Club I'm not entirely sure if there is a 'bolt on' to add an extra gear or how you could go about adapting anything to fit. However, you may be able to play with the gear ratios in the final drive or even the rolling diameter of the wheels/tyres to affect the mph to revs range

Hi all, my first post. My juke 1.6 has a faulty fuel pressure regulator. Have been on the hunt for a replacement pump but prices are absolutely crazy for genuine and I'm struggling to find a none genuine that matches the part number. My part number is 1663000q0b. Are any of these pumps cross operable between models. I'm guessing looking at them they will physically fit but I'm presuming there is a difference in pressure etc? Thanks Tim

hi thanks managed to reset and calibrate

Have a look at the offering from AutoCom as I think this may cover the ABS

Hi Everyone, just bought a 2013 Nissan Serena Hybrid and I was wondering does anyone know where I can get a free user manual download

Saying hello as a new member, been a member previously, now an X Trail owner after three Qashqaiss

Hi - Sorry for the delay in update but problem now cured. Took a while but finally back on the road. Had to take it to a main Nissan dealer 20 miles away in the end so as to connect it to their diagnostics system due to other garages near me not having older diagnostic computer kits compatible with my car. Not cheap. £120 later and they said that the Mass Airlow Unit and Knock sensor needed replacing. Their quote was £1671. Staggering. Said parts were the costly items. They said Airflow Unit was £565 plus VAT. No way! Anyway spoke to Paul at local garage and he said that in all his working life (over 20 years) he had only ever replaced one knock sensor in all that time so should ignore that. A search on ebay resulted in me purchasing Airflow Unit for just under £36. Yes only £36. Could have had it shipped from Australia for around £75 all in. Anyway booked car in with Paul who fitted it along with a couple of rubber gaitors for the steering rack. Total cost for his work was £60. Result - success. Car now runs just as it did before problem occurred so very 'happy bunny'.

Newbie here, checking in with a problem, but I'll put that in the right area. I picked up an Orange 2008 Qashqai early December 2023 as an emergency car. It's a 1.5 manual with 164,000 miles on the clock It's got a few problems, but it's getting me around 😁

It could be battery condition if it is that old so worth starting with a test and replace if necessary Also worth checking all earth leads from the battery onto the engine and transmission back to the chassis. If any of these are corroded or broken that could cause the problem

Hi Trevor it turned out to be the DPF sensor also most importantly the pipe leading to the sensor had split. Replaced the pipe and sensor and zoom the vehicle back to normal

Hello Trevor, I was just a bit concerned that the pipe if it’s a sealed breather system had come off the manifold area but I couldn’t find anything, thanks.

I finally managed to get the connector off and the new resistor is in and I now have a proper 4 speed fan.

That definitely sounds like a poor earth somewhere in the engine bay area.....check the earth lead from the battery and any that may be attached to the engine and body Also on the offchance, it may be something simple like a bulb.....check the rear indicator and tail lamp bulbs are the correct type as sometimes if incorrect they can backfeed current through the electrical system and create faults like you describe

Definitely do a fuel filter change and see how it goes then.....keep us updated

Hi Trevor, thanks for the info. I'm going to be replacing the transfer box sensors shortly so I'll take a look whilst I'm under there. Im not 100% sure what I'm doing but trying hard to get the car operational asap. I've tried everything I can think of so far and still no dice. I appreciate the thinking and will let you know how I get on

Hi Trevor Yes the fan spins but not when connected 😞 after failing miserably to remove the fan unit I went back to basics, read posts on the problem with most saying 90% of failures are not the motor itself but the dodgy connector. So cleaned connector best I could I fitted motor back into position, still not working. Next speed control resistor, this I initially ruled out as it was fairly new but to be sure I purchased one on eBay, fitted it and yes it works, better than it did before. so lesson learnt, check the obvious and easiest parts first before stripping the car apart 😀 on plus side know now how to remove top of dash in about five minutes, downside is I need to source another air pipe after I cut the other one away, good old gaffer tape is holding it for now.

Hi thanks for your reply I really thought I'd cracked it I realised that the interior light wasn't coming on when the rear passenger door was open nor did it show up as open on the dashboard so I unscrewed the switch and found the wire was broken down at the bottom near the seat anywayni joined the wire back up the interior light works as it should now and it also shows up as open on the dashboard but the lights are still flashing

I tow but rarely heavy and/or long. Thanks for the reply

Hi keithtoon ....welcome to the Club There are aftermarket companies on the internet selling SatNav update discs but beware, some work and some don't ! They are not too expensive and worth a try as cheaper than main dealer

Yes . It's a loss of transmission oil pressure causing flat spots being sorted on 24th !

Hi everyone.new to the forum Just thought I'd start with a question as everyone does lol. I have a 95 sunny sequel which is currently sitting on steel wheels and I need ideas help as to what wheels will fit it

I will definitely check all of the points of ground connection, and make sure that all BCM connections are secure and dry. Thank you for that insight. I was researching where the BCM is located, and it appears to be behind the instrument panel. Is that correct?

Hi thanks for replying. The engine runs and am not really sure about misfiring or rough running. To a trained ear you would tell in seconds but i dont know much about them and couldnt tell. I will need to check the wiring etc get a ohms metre

Hi all, I've been having some throttle response problems (flat spot), juddering issues at certain revs and poorer fuel economy on my Micra K12 2003 1.2 petrol. I tried to find a guide online that would help me remove and clean the throttle body but I couldn't find anywhere that could show me the location of the throttle body or even how to remove it. So I decided to find the throttle body myself and undertake the removal and cleaning in the hope of creating a guide for other people who would like to know how to do it. I took some nice photos as I progressed which I could use in a guide. I have put together a little guide which you can find detailed below and also a copy on my website which should help anyone wanting to remove and clean the throttle body on their 1.2 petrol K12. The guide is detailed below in this topic. Alternatively you can also access the guide at: http://www.limecove.co.uk/nissanmicrak12/nissan-micra-k12-throttle-body-removal-clean.html Hopefully it'll be useful. Thanks, Chris

Nissan fixed it under warranty.

Hi, new to forum. I've just bought a 72 plate nsport and am wondering if anyone can suggest a reliable wireless phone charger that works with an android phone and fits nice in front of the changer where the USB slot is Thanks in advance

Hi any advice tips for this model just purchased August 2022 Scotland. I am always willing to give a go simple small Car owner maintenance weekly jobs but due disability strictly no DIY or heavy lifting Spinal problems. Positively driving this Car first time ever today it fitted like a glove never had any Car like that and after nearly a year of not having a car great! I could sing notes hah!

Hi I have a set of Dynamic (led) wing mirror repeaters for sale. Brand new never fitted cost £15:85 selling for £13 plus p&p. 1 full set of Mud Flaps brand new never fitted cost £18:85 selling for £16 plus p&p. Thet are for a 2015 J11 model qashqai. If this post is not allowed sorry and please remove.

told by nissan secure code is due to wrong code being put in radio quoted me £100 to remove then thay send it to france 6-8 weeks to decode and recode price depends on what they find so i found a way to repaire my self has my cd was the problem i got a replacement radio must be the same part no i took both apart swaped the cd unit over as code chip is in the radio replaced my own radio with doner cd job done works as it should again

You will need to take it on a long run (say around 20 miles or so) at a moderate speed but at high revs (not 5th or 6th gear) so that the pressure builds up to break up the collection of soot in both the EGR and DPF. Try to keep the speed and revs constant so motorway is probably best and later in the evening. Keep any eye on the engine temperature but it will go slightly higher whilst trying to purge the EGR/DPF. Also, it may be accompanied by a burning smell but this is part of the process. After you finish the run, allow the engine to cool down for a period. I would aim to give the car a run at least once a week to ensure the engine does not clog up in the future

Thanks 😊 yeah you don’t see many and when I saw it come up for sale and the condition it was in I couldn’t pass it up. Only 49k from new! great to be on board 👌🏻

You are not a nissan dealer are you?

I would start with the grease, clean it from the reluctor ring and go from there

Hi, not had chance to really look yet, what with work and crappy weather, will post when I do, thanks m8

I've just fitted the rear double USB kit to my 2017 X-trail. Got to have it to keep the kids devices charged on long journeys. I thought I'd upload the instructions, for anyone who wanted to take a look before they decided to do it. I couldn't see them for the X-Trail anywhere, saw some for the Qashqai. Some cutting is involved, which didn't bother me, but might be a bit scary for some people. I was going to put USB ports in the back either way, but this kit was much easier as it its plug and play from the 12v socket in the centre console storage bin. The instructions didn't make much sense to me, but I will add that in Figure 10, it isn't clear that there is a torx head screw to undo, so you can pull the rear panel off with the fans on. You only need to remove this and not the whole lid of the storage bin. To access the screws, there is rectangle piece between the hinges of the lid, that you can just unclip. It does come with cutting template to line up where you need to cut. I was hoping to fit the ports closer to the top, so the kids don't break it, or any cables when getting in and out, but space is restricted behind the panel, so it does need to be done at the bottom.

Sadly not! We had to pay the cost of replacement Clutch of £1800 plus an AA report of £200. The AA sent ACE (Automotive Consulting Engineers Ltd) to carry out the inspection which concluded that the Clutch had over heated which caused the failure. No suggestion as to cause other than abuse and referred to Towing in the report which did not mention that there is not a Tow Bar on the car! The report appeared to me to have a large element of "cut and paste" about it. I tried to contact ACE for more details of the inspection but they did not respond I contacted Nissan and asked if they could Inspect the components and the Dual Mass Fly Wheel, they declined and suggested I look on the Internet to find someone to inspect it but could not suggest anyone. The Nissan "Adviser" declined to discuss the matter any further with me and refused to put through to a Manager. We reject the suggestion that we "ride" the clutch as there is adequate spec by the clutch pedal to rest the foot and we have suddenly become bad drivers. I took legal advise and my Solicitor advised that we could become involved in a costly dispute. We are left with a car that my wife is reluctant to drive as she has lost faith in it. We ask ourselves three questions. Would we buy another Nissan, would we recommend a friend to buy a Nissan and are we satisfied with Nissan's Customer Care? NO, NO, ABSOLUTELY NOT.

Nissan Micra K12 Throttle Body Removal and Clean Welcome to this guide on how to remove and clean the throttle body on a Nissan Micra K12. This procedure was done on a 1.2 2003 petrol model. As I couldn't find a good tutorial on this process I thought I would have a go myself and then put together this guide for other people. The process is actually relatively straight forward once you know how. I was experiencing juddering at certain points on the rev range and when the car was in a certain gear, MPG had decreased plus some hunting when the car was idle. So I decided that I would clean the throttle body to see if that would help. I actually didn't know exactly where the throttle body was located on this model. It's actually located under the air intake box/top manifolds which are shown below. It's actually located inside and under the top of the plastic manifold housing. Once you have removed the throttle body you will realise that it's actually connected to one of the electrical connections on the top of the housing that you will need to disconnect as part of this process. Throttle body location This is where the throttle body is location on a 2003 1.2 petrol Nissan Micra K12. Tools required This is a list of tools and other items required to get to the throttle body, remove it from the housing and then clean it: Pliers or grips 10 mm socket Ratchet Toothbrush or cotton buds and an old but clean cloth A good carb/throttle body cleaner The process So here are the steps. Step 1 - Remove the air intake and air filter box Remove the air intake pipe (highlighted by the red arrow) by removing the plastic lugs that hold it to the front of the engine bay and then remove the other end from the air filter housing on the right. I had to slightly twist mine and then gave it a hard pull to detach it. Then remove the air filter housing from the manifold housing. Do this by unclipping the metal retaining clips (highlighted in blue in the image below) located on the front and the right side of the housing. There are only two clips that hold this in place. They simply unclip upwards and one remains connected to the top housing and the other remains connected to the air filter box. Once you have unclipped the air filter housing the front of it may drop away from you. It should not fall off completely as the back is held in place by the box being slid into holders in the back of the top housing. To remove the air filter box simply push the front down and when it's at a certain point pull the air filter housing towards you. This will pull it out of the rear mounts. Try to look at the rears mounts when you do this so that you can be sure you pushed it down enough to be able to pull it forward without snapping the plastic mounts on the back of the top housing. You should see this when the air filter housing has been dropped away from the top housing. The air filter itself may have stuck to the underside of the top housing like mine did so just pull it off and place to one side. I would suggest replacing it with a new filter whilst you are doing this as you will have to put it back in when you reassemble. Now just slide the air filter housing out of the engine bay so that you can continue. You will see this. Step 2 - Disconnect Electrical Connectors Disconnect the three electrical connectors as highlighted in red. The one to the left of the top housing is the actual throttle body connector. Once the one in the middle of the top housing is unplugged, make sure you gentle pull it out of the recess that the rest of the cable lies within and gently push it to one side out of the way. Do not just pull these connectors as they are made from plastic and will snap. They all have a small tab which needs to be depressed at the same time as gently pulling them. Do not pull them too hard as they do not need it. They will disconnect very easily if the tab is pressed whilst pulling them. Step 3 - Disconnect Breather Pipes/Hoses Disconnect the two breather hoses/pipes as highlighted in red. You will need to use a pair of pliers to release the retaining clips that hold the end of the pipes tightly sealed in place. Just squeeze the release arms on the retaining clips with the pliers and slide the retaining clips along the pipes until they are free of the housing connector. Now just gentle pull the hoses/pipes off the housing connectors. Again, you do not need to pull these hard. They should just slide off with a light pressure. Remove the centre hose from the recess in the top housing and push it out of the way. You should now see something like the image below. All electrical connectors have been disconnected and the hoses disconnected. I took this picture before I had moved the centre hose out of the way so you shouldn't have this in place at this stage. Next remove the breather hose mount, shown below, from the top housing. If you don't remove this you will not be able to remove the top housing completely if you leave the rear hose attached. Alternatively, you could leave it bolted on and just remove the other hose from it and then remove the top housing with the mount attached. I just unbolted it and pushed it out of the way so I didn't damage it. Once you've removed the mount then it should look like the image below. Just move it gently out of the way so that it doesn't interfere when you remove the top housing. Step 4 - Remove Top Housing You can now remove the top housing by simply removing the bolts highlighted in red in the below images. They are all 10 mm. Remove the three front bolts. Remove the two bolts on the left rear of the housing. Remove the two bolts on the right rear of the housing. Once the seven bolts have been removed you can simply pull the top of the housing up towards you and it should separate from the bottom section of the housing. Warning: Do not pull this top section up too hard. You should be able to just pull it up with a little force. The top section is attached to plastic manifold inlet pipes toward the rear and they are pretty much held on by O rings. Try to pull the top section of the housing up towards you in a straight motion. Try not to bend it as you pull it up. It should come off fairly easily. Warning: This top section actually contains the throttle body itself so take care. Do not just drop it to one side as you may damage the throttle body that you are about to clean - if you are not replacing the throttle body itself of course. You should now see the image below once the top section is removed. Step 5 - Remove Throttle Body From Top Housing Once you've pulled off the top housing turn it over to see the location of the throttle body. Simply remove the three bolts that are highlighted in red in the image below. They are 10mm so just use the same socket you used to remove the top housing bolts. Once you have removed the three bolts you can now remove the whole throttle body. The throttle body is now only held in by the top of the electrical connector on the outside of the top housing. It's a bit tight so just pull the throttle body towards you whilst wiggling it slightly as the rubber seal is a little tight. Don't put too much force as you might snap the plastic top housing. You should now see the housing like this once the throttle body has been removed. Step 6 - Clean The Throttle Body To clean the throttle body I used a small headed toothbrush, some clean rag and a good carb / throttle body cleaner. Warning: Carefully follow the instructions on the carb cleaner. Do this work in a well ventilated area, preferably outside and wear a suitable breathing mask. Take extreme care not to inhale the fumes from this cleaner or the dirt that it removes from the throttle body. I used the following carb cleaner which is available from a well known parts store for about £8. This was the state of my throttle body when I got it out. It was really clogged up and clearly sticking. Simply attach the small pipe to the can of carb cleaner and then spray into and around the inside of the intake of the throttle body and all over the butterfly valve. Then just brush the whole of the inside of the intake (front and back) and butterfly valve with the toothbrush and/or rag. The dirt should come off quite easily as the carb cleaner is really effective. Keep doing this until the intake and butterfly valve are as clean as you can get them. Keep wiping off any residue with a good clean rag as well as you do this. After about 10 minutes of cleaning I had a nice clean throttle body as shown below. Yours should look pretty similar when complete. Step 7 - Refit Your Throttle Body And Reassemble Other Parts Warning: Before refitting your cleaned throttle body you should ensure that the throttle body is dry and does not contain any residue from the cleaning agent. I left my throttle body to completely dry for about an hour or so just to be extra cautious before proceeding with refitting. Refitting your throttle body and reassembly is just really this guide in reverse from step 5 back to step 1. Warning: Take care when reattaching the top of the housing to the bottom and the intake pipes as they have O rings present. Ensure that they are correctly aligned before pushing the top housing down into place. Be careful not to pinch or tear the O rings. If it's tight to refit over the O rings then either replace the O rings or simply apply a small smear of engine oil around the O rings which should help refit the top housing. Warning: Do not over tighten the bolts that hold the throttle body in place or the top housing. Warning: Once you have reassembled everything it is a good idea to just double check that all the breather hoses are reattached and secured in place and that all the electrical connectors are attached securely. You should now be able to start the car and test accordingly. If this process has been successful then you should have a smoother throttle response and possibly more accurate. Mine stopped juddering at certain revs and seemed so much more responsive. I am also now getting much better fuel economy.