Trevor

It may be worth completely filling the tank for a while so that it dilutes the mix Otherwise it may just need a good run up the motorway for an extended period in a lower gear to keep the revs up for it to regenerate

Have you got a serial number written down for it anywhere (service book, etc) as you can find the code from the serial number Otherwise it is a fairly straightforward job to remove the radio by removing any fascia trims and revealing the securing screws

Sounds familiar but not all the engines suffer from it so not sure why this particular one The 1.6 petrol is a very strong engine and pretty much trouble free

Samco are a company that specialise in Silicon hoses so they can provide different diameters and lengths and you can also get couplings and adapters to make up your own hoses

There should be a voltage stabiliser within the fuel gauge electrical system which will control the gauge but this may have gone faulty

Through the bulkhead using an existing rubber grommet which you can access and feed through the wire(s)

Sounds like loose connections but where is another question all together

Was there any possibility that the battery terminals were reversed or the positive lead connected last?

I think the battery is showing signs of age Classic reason for the stop/start to go offline is the first signs of battery degradation so if its an original one then it may be long overdue for replacement The locking fault may also then be resolved if the battery is replaced

Good luck with it and let us know how you get on with it

Possibly 'Trip A' and there would be 'Trip B' also if selected? Not sure but that's my first thought as you say it is in the mileage display area

Will it connect via bluetooth instead?

Blimey it does sound like it is possessed 🙂 maybe you need to call in a priest The first thing I would look at is the battery terminals are secure and free from contamination and then check all the leads from it (particularly the earth leads) If any of the earth leads are damaged then this may be one of the reasons If in doubt then take it to an auto-electrician for them to diagnose Let us know how you get on with it

It should show on the fusebox cover But I would be more concerned as to why the fuse has blown

The MPG read out is based on average driving styles, e.g. hard acceleration, hills (up or down) and can fluctuate wildly. Over a set period of time it will settle down to a more precise average rather than bouncing up and down

I have had issues with the throttle pedal potentiometer before and gave symptoms similar to this You have to 'dial in' the switch which rotates to a given setting when you measure the volts between a certain range....problem solved at little if no cost Also, check your earth straps from the battery to chassis, chassis to engine and also gearbox as these break and can cause strange faults Finally look for vacuum leaks which can also cause the engine idle to hunt

Its always satisfying to resolve the issue and carry out your own repairs, thanks for letting us know the outcome

Most manufacturers have a substantial paint warranty period so worth pursuing it with Nissan UK as the car is new enough to be covered I would think

Its worth pursuing as a private claim if there is no group which is already challenging the issue with Nissan Do a Google search to see if anyone else is pursuing it and maybe it may sway the dealership decision with some financial assistance to resolve it Alternatively you could try to find an independent transmission specialist who may know the issue and the modification to repair the gearbox

Maybe the wiring has broken where it runs through the tailgate to the vehicle body Sometimes the wiring can break in this way as the movement of opening and closing does this Check the integrity of the wiring between the two areas

Sounds like it may just be a breather and if its not leaking any fluids then maybe thats it

This may possibly be the solution, let us know if it works for you

You would have to get a new ECU, immobiliser ECU, possibly instrument panel as well so may not be financially viable to repair it

It could be that one is a passive (analogue) sensor and the other is an active (digital) sensor The two wire (analogue) sensor probably won't work with your system and if the old gearbox is still around then try to recover it to fit into your new box

The wiper arm will be tough to remove as it is on a taper but if you gently wiggle the arm side to side down the bottom end by the screen it will come free