Trevor
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Posts posted by Trevor
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Try disconnecting the lamps and then reconnecting as it may be the CanBus not recognising the extra load you have introduced into the system
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Sorry if its blatantly obvious but it seems that you are driving it in 4wd on the tarmac?
This is why the wheels are skidding, thumping and lower power as you are driving all the wheels at the same time and this is detrimental on tarmac only to be done on soft ground or loose surfacesAlso the transmission is 'winding up' which is causing the issues with the ABS and speed sensors
Try running it in 2wd all of the time and you shouldn't have any issues
Good also to put in 4WD when on the appropriate surfaces every so often to keep everything in the 4WD system working free -
The first fault sounds like it could be the driveshaft or the joint(s) that is excessively worn or even damaged
I would have that checked for play as it that lets go then it could be a problem and may take out other components if it lets gothe second fault sounds like its one that the handbook may carry the answer, sorry
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I think you can switch off this setting as it can be annoying especially if the disc is not updated
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I think I would get onto the RAC and insist they oversee this situation.
I cannot see how an ECU has anything to do with a lack of compression and should be a straightforward job
Keep us updated on how it goes -
The wheel bearing should fit into the hub assembly and the flange goes into the middle of the wheel bearing
If the flange is worn (as in wear tracks on the outer surface then this has been known to cause slack between the bearing even when torqued down.
The metal is a lot softer than the wheel bearing casing which is hardened steel so can wear prematurely - had it happen on my X-Trail and bought a secondhand hub assembly and new bearing to sort it -
Maybe worth disconnecting the battery and leaving for about half hour then reconnect.
Sometimes the electrical system can fall over itself and needs a reboot
Start there and then try the controls once more -
You can pop to Halfords and get some universal coolant (pre-mixed to the correct quantity) and top up the tank
However, there should be a min-max markings on the tank and should be topped to just below max when the engine is cold-
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You could always use a red bulb (you can get paint for bulbs) and this can be wired up in one of the reverse lights
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Thanks for the update always nice to know the outcome
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SatNav store is your best bet for cheap SD Card updates for Sat Navs
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Definitely the best way forward is to use a smoke generator (you can get them from eBay for less than £100) and drop the lamp, introduce the smoke and you'll know exactly where the leak is coming in from
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I would go to an ombudsman / citizens advice as you say there is a known fault with the engine and should last longer than it has
Possibly the best way forward is sourcing a rebuilt /reconditioned engine fitted by an independent garage as it would be far cheaper -
Brake servo works by introducing vacuum to one side of the diaphragm and the other side is ambient air.
As you press the brake pedal the balance is changed by introducing air to aid braking assistanceQuite possibly you have a blockage on the pedal side of the servo (the part that introduces ambient air and therefore the servo is running on pure vacuum with the pedal pressure which could blow the servo (diaphragm)?
Check the filter where the pedal attaches to the servo via a rod and also check the vacuum hose from the inlet manifold (particularly the union which detaches from the servo)
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I would have said wheel bearing but if it has been replaced then obviously not
Did the hub flange look worn? as had to replace a hub along with a new bearing after replacing it previously as horribly worn and still creating a noise
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If its the pump unit then it will require specialist investigation at the dealership or specialist garage
Is there a warranty still on the vehicle? -
If you can source the parts from a manual locking car (if available) then yes it can be done
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Try moving the seat position back and forwards and try the ignition each time to see if the light goes out
Sometimes its just a poor connection once disconnected
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Before you replace any components I would run cleaning chemicals through the fuel and take for a long hard run to see if things improve.
Once the engine temperature is hot and the revs are high enough then it should make a difference next time you start up -
It should function okay, even though it is smaller the flow and filtration will still take place but maybe struggle if the revs are pushed too much
Would also consider to change it more frequently as smaller surface area for the filter element so maybe keep some in stock?
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Best bet is eBay, there is a link on this page.
Also look for other models of Nissan from that year as may have compatible components
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May take a bit to recover the release cable but if you remove the trim from within the boot area then it maybe quite accessible from there
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I wonder if it is worth trying to secure the handle from inside, once the inner trim has been removed from the tailgate you may find a way
coolant nissan note
in Nissan Note Forum
Posted
The colour is not an issue but the type is (all coolants now are of the OATS type)