Trevor

Hi....welcome to the Forum Sounds like it is a fault with the sound unit rather than a wiring issue. Quite possibly could be an instrument cluster issue but be aware of cost as this unit is the gateway for the CanBus and it could be quite expensive and would need to be coded in at a cost also. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers

Hi Graeme.....welcome to the Forum That's very unfortunate, especially as you say it was below the maximum wade height...surely it should be able to handle that type of activity as it is sold as a Utility vehicle? Keep us informed on how you get on with it all Cheers, Trevor

Hi Rod....welcome to the Forum I know what you mean about dealer prices and never buy any parts from them over all the years, especially as you can get parts of equal quality for a fraction of the price. Are you sure it is a hydraulic tappet and not timing chain/belt tensioner or associated components. I would usually just run a flush through the engine to clean out any oilways that may be sludged up and then put a quality oil back in...usually does the job. Let us know what you find Cheers, Trevor

Hi...welcome to the Forum I would start with the power and earth connections and know that the unit powers up before connecting to the windows independently. The diagram is quite simple to follow but I would enlist the services of an auto electrician if you do not have the skills or equipment to carry out the job as this could result in damage to the vehicle electrical system. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

from memory you pull up the gaiter and you need to use an extension on the ratchet with a 10 mm socket

Hi Andrew....Have answered your question in the introduction post

Hi Andrew....welcome to the Forum It's a common fault on the Diesel engines....and there are several causes I have found out over time. 1. Oxidation Cat blocks up but you can remove it by unbolting the end casing and beating out the monolith...goes a treat after that. 2. Earth straps connecting body to engine, etc tend to break...replace all for around £10 3. Fit an EGR blanking plate (make sure it has a small hole in it) and this works very well. 4. Throttle Potentiometer can be cleaned internally and reset (using voltage readings) 5. Fuel filter housing draws air sometimes and can be replaced with an aftermarket one which works well Usually the turbo is fine as long as there are no air leaks on the hoses leading to and from it but also will perform better when the engine is running better, enough to clear it through. Cheers, Trevor

Hi Jim If it is from the front then I would obviously check all joints and also see if there is any play in the front driveshaft joints (inner and outer) as this could be the cause. If not then it is more than likely from the rear and transmitting the sound through the vehicle. Let us know what you find Cheers, Trevor

Hi Fred....welcome to the Forum Sorry, can't shed much light on your query but I would certainly entertain aftermarket wheels for winter use, cheaper if damaged and need to be replaced. Good to have you onboard Cheers, Trevor

Hi Alysia....welcome to the Forum Any one of those should work but also try http://www.iceboxauto.com/ as they can supply cameras that work with the system. Cheers, Trevor

Hi Steve.....welcome to the Forum Great looking car, and now very rare! Good to have you onboard Cheers, Trevor

Hi...and welcome to the Forum Very rare car indeed ! Good to have you onboard

Hi Yvonne. Yes, its normal as they were only really designed as a City Car and although will do the Motorways fine they are really geared for lower speeds around Town Cheers, Trevor

Hi....welcome to the Forum There are plenty of OBDII readers on eBay but very few of them will read Nissan diagnostics beyond a code read unfortunately. I struggled to find one for my XTrail and ended up using my Snap On Scanner on it as it was the only one with enough coverage....maybe worth looking for a secondhand one? Let us know if you do find anything out there Cheers, Trevor

Glad I could cast some light (or doom) on the situation, hopefully it won't present a problem but I believe in pre-empting issues before they become a problem. You should be able to access the side of the engine in situ quite easily....a good mobile mechanic may be the answer

Not sure but sometimes just the top of the rear seat folds flat on top of the base

Thanks, always handy to know where to get bits and pieces

where did you purchase it from?

Hi Jim...welcome to the Forum I would not take the chance of running the engine on a worn timing chain, guides or tensioner. With the mileage that it has covered and with the cost of the kit being quite cheap, it is just a case of finding a good mechanic to replace all of the components and then it is peace of mind. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-X-TRAIL-T30-2-2-TD-Di-DCi-DIESEL-YD22DDTi-YD22ETi-NEW-TIMING-CHAIN-KIT-/271507249270?fits=Car+Make%3ANissan|Model%3AX-Trail|Cars+Year%3A2005|Plat_Gen%3AT30|Cars+Type%3A2.2+dCi&hash=item3f3717d876:g:Ae4AAOxyDo1TjwNu There are a host of other issues with the X-Trail that may, or may not materialise so maybe best deal with them if they arise. Cheers, Trevor

Can only suggest local paint suppliers and they can match up any shade but you would have to buy 1/2 litre minimum

Never tried replacing the auto trans version only difference I can think is that there may be cooler pipes attached to it otherwise should be the same as a manual and I seem to recall not having to remove the bumper to strip it out

Hi Paul...welcome to the Forum Unfortunately I sold my X-Trail a while ago so unable to take measurements for you, hopefully some other members may be able to assist you though. Wouldn't have thought there would be a great deal of difference between the widths of the two vehicles though. Cheers, Trevor

You could run a trickle charger to it while it is still connected

I'm sure there is another post on this forum regarding a similar fault....worth a search to see if any useful information. Otherwise, there would be some sort of filter in the pickup pump that may block or allow air to enter the system

I would try to get at least the nearest part number and size/shape to the one you have, but no idea why so many variables. They generally have the same resistance (although I would not recommend measuring resistance with a multi-meter as this can sometimes deploy the airbag)