Trevor

Hi Grumpy Dad...welcome to the Forum I've found the X-Trail to be quite a capable car off-road as well as on-road....enjoy! Cheers Trevor

Worth looking at the electrical connections on all the ancillaries that aren't working...wiggle the electrical connector whilst operating the component and see if it comes to life.

Hi...welcome to the Forum I would go with the 1.0 litre if your friends are selling it to at a good price then that would compensate for the higher insurance cost (if any). You could always contact Adrian Flux who sponsor this Forum and ask them the question....here is their link http://www.nissanownersclub.com/insurance/ Cheers Trevor

Hi....welcome to the Forum The Pathfinder is a great car but as you have already experienced, being a Nissan...it will suffer from inherited French electrical gremlins. Usually, I have found it is just very poor quality electrical connectors where they connect to a component. You will find if you slightly move them at an angle and the component starts working again then its a case of wedging it in that position (cable tie) and that mostly works for ages. Cheers, Trevor

I would suggest disconnecting the battery and resetting all the locks from the remote once reconnected. If memory serves me correctly, you have to turn the key to position II and then press the buttons on the remote. Best to have a search through the forum to see if there is a procedure listed

That's an odd one, as if all the other doors are locking from the remote then so should the passenger door (as it wouldn't be on a separate circuit). Would advise taking it to an auto-electrician to look at.

wow! excellent results....what do you think was the biggest single contributing factor to the increase or is it a combination of various components/work carried out?

You could try clear silicone or double sided sticky tape if nothing else works

There are several different versions I have read over time but one of the does work (sorry, can't remember which sequence to use) but also, if the unlock/lock feature on the fob is not working, check the buttons inside have not fallen off the board. You can get kits to repair them if you're handy with a soldering iron

I think you'll be alright with a generic tool as the Nissan kit is quite a lot of money. I have always used a Snap-On Scanner which reads it rather well.

Not sure about a recall but the cambelt & water pump should just be replaced as a matter of course

These rumours are true but can be resolved quite easily. The cambelt and water pump can be replaced even if it is before it is due and at a reasonable cost, ensuring peace of mind if nothing else. The electrics are quite easy to resolve also, usually poor connectivity with the connectors (poor quality)

Hi...welcome to the Forum Depreciation is a funny thing, depends on the market at the time. I suppose one factor is the second hand market has taken a nose dive with more people getting new cars through personal lease deals and this means more second hand cars not selling, hence the lower price If it checks out okay on an inspection with a new MOT and it has service history then it will probably be a good purchase Let us know how you get on with the purchase decision Cheers Trevor

Hopefully someone will respond to your request, but in the meantime, do you have any piccies of it to upload?

You may be able to get proof of age from another Nissan owners club as unfortunately we do not keep registration details for vehicles (domestic or import). Sorry can't be of any help, good luck with your search

Glad you enjoyed it....I'm sure it won't take long to get used to it

The only other thing I can think of is the Coolant temperature sensor giving out the wrong information....worth checking that because if it is running in the cold setting then it could overfuel the engine.

Hi It sounds like you have picked up some bad quality fuel somewhere along the line. Also, consider replacing the battery if it is still not 100% fit for purpose.....a battery with dead cells or heavily sulphated can cause running faults. Let us know what you find

I would change the engine oil immediately if it is diluted (with diesel) as this can lead to a 'runaway engine' which means the engine oil gets sucked into the combustion chamber and then gets burnt, leading to the engine being able to run on after the engine is switched off, consuming it's own engine oil until it goes bang! If the oil is diluted with diesel fuel then the injectors are possibly leaking/misfuelling which is causing the fuel to leak into the engine oil sump, diluting the oil. Before changing the fuel, I would definitely take it to a diesel specialist who will quickly be able to diagnose the fault and this is more than likely why it is excessively smoking. As for the 4WD situation....are all the prop/drive shafts present...or have one been removed?

Yes, agree...they seem to be quite popular lately

Hi Richard....welcome to the Forum Congratulations on your new car...I think you'll be pleased with it, they're a good little car Cheers Trevor

I would check the throttle potentiometer for a wiring fault...wiggle the wiring to check for poor connections

Hi...welcome to the Forum Sounds like a wiring or body control fault....or could even be a poor earth. Either way, I would take it to an Auto Electrician to check out. I very rarely use the horn either...don't often need to. Cheers Trevor

I think that your suggestion should work fine as the hot water should automatically circulate and find its own way around the system even if you do link it up. Always best to measure the circulating water temperature with a infra-red temperature gun http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Handheld-LCD-Digital-Temperature-Thermometer-Laser-Non-Contact-IR-Infrared-Gun-/131919872146?hash=item1eb7098092:g:pJwAAOSwEzxYWQXd

Hi Peter...welcome to the Forum Would love to see some piccies of the 350Z...sounds like an incredible machine! If you want to start listing the problems (1 by 1) then we can see if we can find a solution to them Cheers Trevor